CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Sarah Horowitz Parfums + A Perfect Draw

 

 When  I first began writing about fragrance in 2005 Sarah Horowitz Thran was one of my first interviews.  Although we never met her story of creating oils and walking up and down with her perfume organ handing them out to everyone  in the store whe worked in with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz  and on the  trolley in Boston), showed me that  here was someone special. She created her first “Perfect" fragrance in  a  tiny shoppe  on Newbury Street and when  a customer asked to create the smell of a gardenia-Perfect Gardenia was born. Of course I had already been familiar with her fragrances as a publicist with Luckyscent, but over the years,each perfume was a  scented  postcard for me chronicling her life events, marriage and motherhood.

  (Sarah Horowitz Thran,  Sarah Baron King, Yosh Han, Maria McElroy were  four of the five perfumers who began the firs Untitled series for luckyscent!)

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 Sarah and  Artist Greg Thran Wedding day-all rights reserved

 

I have watched how her fragrances were shaped by the events of her life (for example Perfect Bliss was created when she wed her husband). To this day one of my favorite fragrances is from her Within  series-( Beauty Comes from Within) and that is a great segue way to Sarah’s place in the “pantheon” of our profiles of American perfumers.

 Sarah's grandparents-all rights reserved

 

Profile: I was born on May 7th, 1970, in the Bronx, NY.  My parents. Roy and Andrea, moved to Long Island shortly after I was born, and there I was raised along with my younger brother, David.

 

 

My paternal grandparents both hailed from Poland, fleeing the pogroms of Russia and in search of grater opportunity.  My grandfather Phillip entered Ellis Island on April 4th, 1923.  Grandpa Phil was an entrepreneur – apparently I came form a line of them!  He did everything from paper routes, house painting, dance teacher – and eventually, working in a Navy shipyard during the war.   He met my grandmother, Sally, for whom I was named, and together they bought a small grocery store.  My father says their philosophy was that with a grocery store, at least they new they would never go hungry!

 

My maternal grandparents were both first generation, both from what we call Austria/Hungary.  Grandpa Skipper (so called because he loved the water and had a boat) worked as a furrier, as his father did, and his father before him.  He traveled extensively through Europe and Russia before WW2, but could not return after the war as he was rumored to be a spy!  But that is another story for another time …   My Grandmother Trudie was born in Harlem, which had a large Jewish population in the early 20th century.  She was raised in Brooklyn, and met Skipper in elementary school – they were married after high school, and raised their family on LI.

 

My parents met in 1961 , married in 65, and left for Brussels the next day by ship for my father to finish medical school.  My father became a doctor in a language he learned the summer before school started, and my mother supported him.  Later, once back in America, he opened his own practice, my mom working up front – but her dreams lay elsewhere.  She graduated law school the year before I graduated college –  they are both a constant inspiration!

 

 Basically, I came from a long line of risk takers, entrepreneurs, and in one instance, apparently, a spy.  Which is why, I suppose, I was supported as much as I was when I pursued Perfumery.  Everyone wonder what a nice Jewish girl ( the daughter of a Doctor and a lawyer, for goodness sake!) was doing hauling a sears toolbox filled with oils all over Southern California saying “may I anoint you” – but my parents encouraged me; they saw my passion.  My mother always said there was the paved path, and the one you needed a machete to carve out – and I was always a machete type of girl.

 

 

  

On American Perfumery –

 

   

I found perfumery in 1989 in an eclectic apothecary on Newbury Street, in Boston. The concept of customization rang true for me, and I have built my business with this still at its heart. I love connecting with customers, hearing their stories, smelling their skin, creating a fragrance inspired by an individualFor me, again, the focus here is the individual perfumer.  I understand how the large house work, and am privileged to partner with many of them regularly for larger scale projects.  And as large as some of these houses may be, it still comes down to a perfumer, a concept, and a palette of ingredients.  One of the greatest gifts I have been given in my career was a brief apprenticeship with Jim Schmitt , an extremely talented perfumer at MANE, USA.  Not only did Mane open their doors to me, but Jim has become a dear friend over the years, and taught me much about the other side of this fragrant world we both create in.

 

The mass market in America amazes me, as it seems there is a constant stream of new launches every day.  I like to work in my bubble.  I have my fragrance organ, my garden, my kids – the world around me.   I love the materials that I work with; I  love jasmine, Moroccan red rose, orange blossom, vanilla, the scent of the ocean in the air as I put sun tan lotion on my daughters skin. I focus on what is in front of me each day, and try to create a fragrance that resonates deeply with those who wear it.

 

My greatest love in American perfumery is certainly the spirit that is so quintessentially “American” – to discover, to try what has not been done before, to dance to the beat of your own drum and create a business around that beat. If I had to chose a fragrance from one of my collections that I felt was the most American, I would have to say Perfect Veil (Editor's Note Rachel Zoe, Madonna and Jennifer Garner are   fans of what some call the ultimate skin scent); it can go anywhere, day or night, it appeals to so broad a clientele  because it is sheer and soft and luminous – and in these way, it feels free to be whatever it wants to be.

But truly, my most American creations are the custom scents I create for individuals.  Unique.  Special.  Hopefully, inspired.  The opportunity to express yourself as you truly are.  To me, these are words and concepts that I love to associate with my country.

 –Michelyn Camen

Editor's Note: I chose the art of Man Ray  who was born Emmanuel Radnitzky in South Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA in 1890, the eldest child of recent Russian Jewish immigrants

 

 

Sarah is offering TWO prizes- to two  commentors

 One is 1.7 ounces of any of her Perfect fragrances, (Please Specify)  AND one winner a custome blend perfume!!! 

 

To be eligible leave a comment on what you learned about Sarah and choose your favorite  Perfect fragrance (or one you would  like to try)  AND what memory or notes  you would  love in an  One ounce custom blend perfume. Draw ends August 23, 2011 PLEASE LIKE CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery because this series will run throughout the remainder of the year; and your entry will count as two.

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33 comments

  • So happy to see this in-depth and lovely profile of Sarah! She’s as beautiful now as ever and her passion has only grown. It shows in all that she does. Inspiring! Brava!

  • Could I really go past Perfect Veil if Madonna has spoken? What I really got from reading this review was the very feeling of a down to earth quality that Sarah has. Being in touch with the reality around her which I can imagine runs through the family as you have written about them here.Accessible is the word I search for. I’d like the feeling of Northern Europe in a custom blend!

    Great review, thanks.

  • I admire women like Sarah, who choose the difficult way, instead of the paven path. I’d like to be like them.
    Thanks to this article I have learnt more about Sarah, her family and her apprenticeship of perfumery. And I did not know that she considers Perfect Veil (which I love) her most American fragrance.

    I would love to try Perfect Gardenia 🙂

    But if I could choose a custom blend perfume I would like it to contain orange blossom, lemon blossom, green notes, rosemary and earthy notes. This would be the perfume of my childhood days. Very Mediterranean.

  • In the late 90s before all perfumistas knew who Sarah was I had a custom blend made by her through information I sent through the mail. It was a gorgeous, ethereal blend of grapefruit, lilac and sandalwood. Even back then her creations were magical. What I did not know is that she originated from NYC (just like me!). I remember having and loving Perfect Veil so that would be my choice for the perfect scent. As far as custom blends, my teenage and pre-teen daughters are in love with cherry blossom. I would love to have a custom blended scent made for them with this as a prominent note.

  • I think its so sweet that Sarah created Perfect Bliss when she met her husband! I guess that is something I learned about her, as well as that she comes from a long line of entrepreneurs. I’ve always wanted to try Perfect Veil, so maybe now is my chance. A memory that I would love to scent would be that of a mother with her newborn child. I think of milk, baby powder, and maybe lilac or lavender, some sweet floral musk blend that reminds one of the smell of a baby’s hair upon waking.

  • Thank you so much for all the lovely comments! This interview was such an amazing journey – I found myself asking my parents more detailed questions about THEIR parents than I had before, and heard some amazing stories; I am so glad I did. I used to anoint people on Newbury Street – Dawn, do you remember this? I would stand outside the perfumery with 4 bottles of fragrance attached to a belt, and anoint people on the trolley from our store until Mass Ave – anyone who came back for a custom scent, the owner, Mark, would give me a dollar. And it was fun! Ah, youth…

  • I agree that it’s sweet Sarah created a perfume when she met her husband. That’s what I will remember learning from this. I would like to try it, as well; it sounds like the most “me” of all the perfect scents. In a custom blend, I would love to bottle the scent memory of cool desert evenings.

  • I did not know that Sarah’s perfumes were so popular with the Hollywood crowd! I would love Perfect Bliss and a custom scent that incorporates grapefruit, lime blossom and musk.

  • Wow! Dawn SH worked with Sarah! I learned something new! Living in upstate New York the cold weather can be brutal so I turn to comfort scents. Therefore, with the approaching seasons of fall/winter I would love Perfect Vanilla and for the custom blend something as warm as a soft cashmere blanket (perhaps a bit of orange blossom, honey, lavender, cardamom, vanilla, amber, tobacco notes)

  • I did not know that Sarah’s perfumes are so popular with the Hollywood crowd! I would love Perfect Bliss as my perfect scent. For the custom blend anything with lime blossom as the dominant note: something that captures a glorious summer day with lots of citrus (lime or bergamot,perhaps?) with lime blossom and a dry down of vanilla and/or musk.

  • Wow! Dawn Spencer Hurwitz worked with Sarah! I didn’t know this. As the fall/winter approaches in the Northeast I turn to comfort scents. Therefore I would love perfect Vanilla as my perfect scent. For the custom blend I envision something warm,soft and enveloping like a cashmere blanket, with notes of orange blossom. honey, lavender, vanilla, amber and/or tobacco.

  • Perfect Bliss sounds divine. I haven’t smelled any of these, but I am thrilled by the idea of an individual working with her own tastes and memories. “Only the particular becomes universal”

  • Holy Cow Sara is one heck of a lady coming from a long line of go getters! I admire that. I also admire that she was cold clling with her scent organ to get the recognition. That takes courage and confidnce in tall order. Reading that she created Perfect Gardenia…I was smitten right there. Of course no offense to Maddonna or Rachael Zoe I am sure Perfect Veil is wonderful. Sarah, seems like quite the artisit and visionary.
    A new blend for me would include soft musk of melon,tuberose,ivy and lavender for my daughter she seems to love those scents they have a calming effect that I love too:) Thanks for the draw its wonderful.

  • I love Perfect Bliss. I read somewhere that she created it to remind her (and her husband) of their Bali honeymoon. Bali is one of my favorite places from when I lived in Asia, and that scent catches the lush, wild beauty of the place for me. It’s my favorite, although I do like Perfect Veil. As I own both of these, my choice would be Perfect Gardenia. For a personal scent I would choose frangipani, as I love her touch with the tropical flowers.

    I found this article interesting, and in particular, the fact that she comes from a long line of high achievers and entrepreneurs. And it was interesting that her parents supported her following her “bliss”, even though they came from more solid fields.

  • Everything I admired about Sarah in the interview, her passion to make fragrances, her rich family history and making a fragrance and associating it to that particular event .
    I would like to choose Perfect Veil which she describes to be the most American. For a custom blend, I would like to choose jasmin, frankincense, cedar and herbal green notes.

  • I learned there is another fragrance-obsessed Sara(h) born in NYC with a younger brother David. I would love to try Perfect Veil. For a custom blend I would choose moss incense and coriander notes! Thanks!!

  • Thank you so much, I’ve been enjoying these profile series more and more each time (and liking some of them on FB as well, this one included).

    I was really impressed to find out about Sarah’s ancestry. I guess I always love to know that and especially love to find out that we are from the same people — even the main geography marks coincide.

    But what I will carry with me from this interview is Sarah’s mother’s phrase about the machete-carved path — how wonderful and how fitting for some!

    If I were truly lucky to win a custom perfume, I’d love it to invoke a river, a willow, a sound of running water and a wet fragrant freshness. I’d love to smell in it a touch of green and a generous helping of lilacs, silvery lilies of the valley, a touch of lavender, a bit of hay, and a hint of honeysuckle…

    Perfect Vanilla sounds most intriguing of the perfect ones to me.
    Thanks for the draw and the series.

  • What an inspiring story about Sarah’s parents, and about her passion to make perfume!

    I’d love to try Perfect Vanilla as I am on a quest of finding well, a perfect vanilla 🙂

    A custom blend would be a dream come true! In my case, it would be a night out in a cozy lounge kind of persume – something to wear while listening to jazz… Dark rose, pipe tobacco, a touch of incense, a taste of cognac…

  • A jewish girl saying “may I anoint you”! I loved that scene. And for me, as always, most things on American perfumers are news and this series is great for getting to know all the gifted perfumers over there. This article was wonderfully inspiring.
    The perfect vanilla sounds like my thing, and if Francesca wins, with her Northern Europe custom blend, I hope I get a sample 😉
    For me a custom blend would be molded around a saffron note.
    Thanks for the great draw.

  • lovely post — 🙂

    i found most surprising (and striking) how much greg resembles sarah’s grandfather (i don’t mean as a look-alike — more as a “feel”-alike, as per those two pics.)
    but then, that’s not so surprising, after all, eh 🙂

    my very own perfume would be very heavy on the bases, my very own “perfect woods”: cedar, pine sap, a little bit of patch, some greenery (maybe a hint of vetiver as well), a touch of tangerine or orange (as found in said pine-sap) — and labdanum to round it out.

    and i already know i really like sarah’s perfect vanilla — so that’s what i would love to have.

  • I admire Sarah’s family background. Her grandparents have suffered hardships, and as a lawyer, I admire her mother for pursuing her dream.

    I also admire Sarah’s values around customizing perfume to suit her clients. I personally believe that it is important to listen to stories told and it is a privilege and an honor to be able to translate those stories into something for the senses.

    I would love the opportunity to try Perfect Vanilla, as the tobacco note sounds very enticing! I would also suggest a heavy citrus opening with lime and bergamot over dry wood or hay notes to capture the perfect dry summer’s afternoon that I have experienced so many times in my childhood in Europe.

    Thank you Sarah and Michelyn.

    Kind Regards,

    Daniel.

  • I was pleased to learn that Sarah has known that she is an entrepreneur since she was young–this is a true gift and I am happy that she has been able to realize her passion in perfumery.
    I would like to try Perfect Veil as I am on the look out for the “perfect skin scent.’
    And finally in a custom made perfume I would like to explore the truffle note. I love the aroma and wonder how it would play out in a perfume.
    Thank you

  • You will NEVER meet anyone more passionate about life and love than Sarah. This is so abundantly clear in her fragrances and I encourage everyone to experience it.

    With love and admiration,
    Celine

  • I am hopelessly romantic and my moment in interview was, of course, Perfect bliss. 🙂 and all her perfumes sounds so tempting, but Bliss is something I would like to try… 🙂

  • This was such a wonderful interview for me. I’ve always been a huge fan of Sarah’s work. I found it interesting that family is so important and how the balance between work/family has to be maintained.

    My choice would be Perfect Chypre since my bottle is gone. My custom choice would be saffron, rose, amber, sandalwood, and oakmoss. It would be dark and luscious.

    Thanks for the draw:)

  • She sounds so down to Earth, especially with the final nod to individual plebeian creations evoking the essence of America. I would love to work with her on a unique masterpiece centered around freshly-tilled garden soil for the American horticulturist that is me. “Peace Comes From Within” would be an acceptable conciliation prize should the Fates decree no Horowitz-crafted bespoke scent for me.

  • Great write up. Neil and I refer to Sarah as the Godmother of American Niche Perfumery as a testament to her being among the first as well as her beautiful spirit.

  • I want to echo David’s sentiments and also say Sarah has been an inspiration to me since I met her in the late 90’s. I am grateful to her on so many levels. Thank you, Sarah! Your work is beautiful and you, even more so…

    Love, Neil

  • Sarah sounds like a very interesting person to know. I learned that she is confident and values her heritage.

    I would try Perfect kiss if I had the opportunity. And for a custom blend I would like a fragrance that captured the moment of the wind before a storm hits. Wet, earth, sweet, air, rain. A “clear” but not clean smell.

  • Sarah was there before the myriad of niche brands cluttering the market. if you go on luckyscent her perfect veil is still a top pick(light and fresh) after 8 yrs. I think that speaks volumes about Sarah! She is one of the few perfumers that can claim that longevity and popularity on a site that I have seen dozens of fragrances come and go.

  • It’s still August 23 where I am so I hope I qualify! This was all new to me…an American “nose” born in the Bronx quand meme. I would love to try “Pefect Veil” and I love her notion of the smell of the ocean while putting on suntan lotion, oh to just breathe it in.

  • Thank you, Michelyn, and all of you, for such amazing comments! And the different custom fragrance requests are so detailed, with such great ingredient choices – I am truly looking forward to creating the chosen scent.