CaFleureBon Patchouli in Perfumery: “Love it and Leaf It”+ 12 Fragrant Prizes

Grounding, floral, fruity, (and yes earthy), musky and rich, patchouli essential oil is many things to many people. Patchouli in perfumery takes on many different facets, depending on the composition; it can impart anything from herbal to woody and an almost infinite list of possibilities in the space between those adjectives. Patchouli (patchouly) is used as an important fixative, especially for floral fragrances and is found in many, many other types of perfumes as well. It is the cornerstone to modern chypre fragrances as the oak moss of vintage chypres is difficult to obtain or restricted by regulations. Patchouli is most often found as a base note and there is no synthetic substitute.

 

Patchouli can add an exotic tone to perfume

The relationship between patchouli and rose is the stuff of great perfumes and amazing depth; each essence is somehow better for the partnership.  Patchouli essential oil can be found enhancing amber notes and fougere blends.  It’s very important in Oriental fragrances. Chocolate and patchouli seem to provide a perfect sweetness, with chocolate taking advantage of the winey, fruity notes and the patchouli becoming richer.  Even when the smell of patchouli is not apparent, as a fixative, it blends beautifully with a wide range of essential oils and fragrance ingredients. 

 

Patchouli, like most essential oils, has many components and includes some that are barely detectable.  Indeed, scientists spent almost 100 years describing the scented molecules in patchouli.  There has been quite a bit of debate about how the different odorants contribute to the patchouli scent and, it turns out, quite a few people cannot detect various components of the patchouli scent. So it really does smell differently to different people and it’s often said that people either love it or hate it.

The name comes from the Tamil, patch ilia, which means green leaf.  It is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family (which also includes other herbs such as mint, basil, rosemary, sage, lavender and perilla) and probably originated in Indonesia and the Philippines although it has since spread to many tropical areas. The patchouli plant has dark green leaves and small purplish-white flowers borne in a spike.  Most patchouli essential oil is still produced in Indonesia and the Philippines areas and often distilled locally. Although a perennial in the tropics, it can also be grown as an annual in colder regions.  From Indonesian distillations, the sweet wine note is less perceptible whereas United States or European distillations often have more of the wine-like fruitiness and less of the earthiness.  In places where traditional iron stills are used, the iron will give a brown color and characteristic odor while a change to stainless steel is used to produce an iron-free patchouli essential oil. Upon aging, any green, earthy or minty notes will disappear and the sweetness of the essential oil becomes apparent; in fact the true dry-out note will appear at about 24 hours on a scent strip.  And, like a fine wine, patchouli gets better with age.  Molecular distillation, which occurs under high vacuum and low temperature conditions that allow operators to delicately separate out some components, yields a clear, attractive, and very diffusive patchouli essential oil.  However, the solvent-extracted absolute is said to reveal the true heart of patchouli.  Patchouli may be the single most important product in the fragrance industry and production exceeds $30 million, at least double the monetary value of rose oil.  It is also very useful in  aromatherapy. Some claim it has appetite suppressing qualities suggesting it can be useful for dieters and its stimultating odor is used as a natural anti depressant.

Saloman Counis Guillaume: portrait of a lady with a flowered shawl 1820

The patchouli plant and its scent were introduced during the early 19th century to Paris and the rest of Europe when the leaves were used to protect cashmere shawls during shipment for use by elegant ladies.  Patchouli leaves are traditionally used to keep moths and other insects away from fine cloth and countries such as Borneo and Indonesia used the leaves in this way for their exports to Europe.It is said that  Queen Victoria  lined her linen chests with patchouli leaves. The scent itself became very popular as a result and quickly became associated with high quality material, including fine cashmere shawls worn over the thin dresses popular at the time.  This was likely also the time during which patchouli essential oil began to be used in perfumes.

Throughout history, the smell of patchouli has permeated many aspects of global culture. Patchouli scented the original India ink and Chinese red ink paste and was once used in Sen-sen type licorice flavors because it can mask various breath odors.  It is used as a flavoring in Asia and South America and can be blended with anise and clove to sweeten the breath.  Patchouli is healing for many types of skin and is found in many skin care products,  including treating acne and cellulite.

 

Many Americans associate patchouli with headshops and the Hippie movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s when young people of the time were scenting their bodies with patchouli oil and their personal spaces with incense.  It was the scent of choice during the Summer of Love in 1967 when as many as 100,000 people converged on the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco. Perhaps the motivation for wearing patchouli  oil wasn't to mask the smell of marijuana but to wear a scent  that symbolized rebellion. You couldn't find patchouli oil in the local Macy's. Patchouli is the scent that symbolized that era's cultural evolution. During the 40th anniversary of Woodstock in Bethel, NY; the aging generation who first gathered at Max Yasgur's dairy farm in1969  wafted patchouli and for a few hours that scent ignited the memories of the spirit of unlimited hope, optimism, and belief that the world can be made better through peace and love.

 

Remember patchouli if you are looking for love; it's an aphrodisiac. Dab a bit of patchouli oil in naughty places or layer leaves in with your favorite undergarments and you will understand patchouli's power of attraction. In addition to enhancing romance, its aphrodisiac properties make it useful in sensual blends to keep the romance alive. Because of its rich smell of the earth, it is also associated with wealth and money. Hoodoo practitioners do and inscribe a dollar sign on a piece of paper with patchouli oil. Carry it with you to attract wealth your way. It is also thought to be useful in magical workings and, because of its earthy scent, can be substituted for graveyard dust in potions  used in witchcraft. Also, you can anoint doors and windows (or possibly yourself) to keep negative influences at bay. This same property will be helpful in healing emotions and to aid in meditation. In Chinese medicine the dried leaves and stems normalize the flow and balance of the ‘chi.’

Love, passion, healing, a bit of musk, and a touch of magic.  Whether you think you hate it or love it, patchouli brings its unique aromatic qualities to perfumes of all types and provides richness, sweetness, depth, and longevity.  Find a patchouli perfume that you love and wear it often.

 Elise Pearlstine, Monthly Contributor

Art Direction and Editor Michelyn Camen

 For our draw, we selected some of our favorite patchouli perfumes, each showing it's diverse range when used in perfumery.

Thanks to our friends Martine and Geoffrey of M.Micallef 30ml  Patchouli  available at Luckyscent and OsswaldNYC. For those who don't want a straight up patchouli and like woody notes touched with some sweetness from balsam tolu, benzoin and cistus labdanum. Sophisticated Patchouli.

 Gerald Ghislain's 60 ml of the "cult"  oriental Histoires de Parfums 1969, with spices, chocolate, and patchouli. A sensual scent inspired by 1969 and the onset of the sexual revolution

 Thanks to EuroScents USA 50 ml Etat Libre D'Orange "Rien"; A second skin perfume with black currants and adelyhydes rest upon  a leafy bed of oakmoss and patchouli base notes. More than one friend calls Rien  the "best jolie/laide' perfume they own. Rien was composed by Antoine Lie .

 

From Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes Vintage Patchouly inspired by the Orientalist movement- aged East Indian and Indonesian patchouli with morrocan rose and mysore sandalwood. Dawn is offering a .25 oz refillable spray plus the organic shea body creme

Courtesy of Europarfums 100ml of Montale Patchouli Leaves-  earthy, green, musky and reminiscent of oak trunks Available at MiN New York

Liz Zorn of Soivohle is offering 11ml of Rivertown Road  an Absolue for Homme with chypre and a fougere qualities -aged patchoulo, artisinal ambergris and tobacco make  Rivertown a logical choice for men. A gender bender fragrance as well, so ladies who like 'his' fragrance will want to try this one.

 

 

ALL NATURAL From our Author Elise Pearlstine of bellyflowers, 15ml of Verdigris… a fougere with an artisinal ambergris tincture, African Stone tincture and aged Indonesian Patchouli

ALL NATURAL–  For those who LOVE a rich patchouli perfume …JoAnne Bassett  5ml purse spray Tetu with 25% aged patchouli  and nine  base notes including chocolate.

ALL NATURAL   15 ml of Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden Pan, carnal, sexual and animalic. The perfume was inspired by the book Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins.  Ingredients include: molecularly distilled patchouli, atlas cedarwood, beeswax, and goat hair tincture.

 ALL NATURAL  Eleanor Jayne of Tallulah Jayne is offering  TWO 8ml of Gotham  a sophisticated spicy ode to New York City with organic patchouli that has been aged for three years, rose and nutmeg

ALL NATURAL What would a patchouli post be without  some great retro incense to burn? Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts Pan  offers handmade incense sticks that evoke the earthy patchouli that scented many a dorm room in the 60s and 70s

Thank you to the generosity of all our friends who sponsor these monthly draws.

To be eligible for our draw please leave a comment with what you learned about patchouli in perfumery (probaly a lot)  and include your choice of two fragrances you would hope to win including ONE ALL NATURAL. The draw is random and closes September 13, 2012

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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140 comments

  • As you predicted, I have learned a lot about patchouli in perfumery, but a fact that stands out is that patchouli, like wine, ages well. Makes sense, cause it’s a natural product, but I usually think of perfume ingredients as more static. I have a lot to learn and think about! 🙂

    Rivertown Road and Verdigris would be my choices if I win. Thanks so much for the draw!

  • I would have never thought about chewing patchouli to sweeten my breath (fortunately, I don’t need it either), and was surprised to learn that it is used in Asia and South America as a flavouring!
    I’d love to win Micallef’s Patchouli and Tallulah Jane’s Gotham.

  • I had no idea the ‘patchouli industry’ exceeded $30 million. Guess all the fruitchoulis are keeping business brisk! I would so love to win the bottle of Montale Patchouli Leaves and Tallulah Jayne’s Gotham. What an awesome draw, thank you!

  • The fact that it has taken more than 100 years to map the constituent parts of patchouli was incredible! I would like to win the DSH Vintage Patchouly. Thanks

  • I learned that patchouli is considered an aphrodisiac! M. Micallef and Rivertown Road would be my winning choices. Thank you!!!

  • I thought patchouli was the root of the bush, I didn’t know the leaves were fragrant!! D’oh!

    I would love to win Histoires de Parfums 1969. Thanks for the draw. 🙂

  • I love Patchouli in all its forms. From this article I learned there’s a difference between patchouli distilled in iron and in stainless steel – I can say that I detect the “irony” quality in many patchouli-based scents, though I don’t know what it would smell like distilled in stainless steel.

    I would hope to win either Etat Libre d’Orange “Rien,” or my natural choice would be JoAnne Bassett’s Tetu.

    Thanks all!

  • I did not know that Patchouli could be used for an aprhodisiac. I would like to win Histoires de Parfums 1969 and Tallulah Jane’s Gotham. Thanks for the draw!

  • farawayspices says:

    I enjoyed reading about Patchouli’s use as a flavor, and to scent ink. I would love to win M. Micallef Patchouli, Tallulah Jane Gotham.

  • Loved this post…very interesting and full of good information.

    I was fascinated by the use of patchouli for the moth repellant for cashmere shawls and the ensuing association with “rich” quality material.

    I would be happy to get to try the DSH Vintage Patchouly and the natural choice would be the Tallulah Jane’s Gotham. Thanks!

  • Great article and so much to be learned! I didn’t know it was every used in Sen-Sen. I also love that it’s a natural appetite suppressant and that it improves with age — fascinating! Montale Patchouli Leaves and Tallulah Jane Gotham would be my first choices…after that, “Rien,” but of course, nothing comes from nothing…

  • I learned that some believe that patchouli is an appetite suppressant … I think I will try that trick!

    I would choose the M, Micallaf or Liz’s Rivertown Road.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • I did not know that patch is always natural! Hurrah!

    I would love to win Tallulah Jane Gotham and Montale Patchouli Leaves!

    Only yesterday I indulged in a patch festival chez moi, wearing both Demeter Naturals 2009 Patchouli and Bond no 9 H.O.T. Always.
    (-;

  • I’m with Brian love Patchouli also! Matter of fact I planted some around my garden this year! Seems to like the low desert area as long as I keep it in a shaded area. I learned that Molecular distillation patchouli can be diffused…Thanks Elsie.. I also learned that Solvent extracted reveals the true HEART of Patchouli. Would love M.Micallef Patchouli and Verdigris.

  • amberosmanthus says:

    I learned that Patchouli is simultaneously an appetite suppressant, as well as an anti-depressant. I also had no idea it was made in so many different ways. Fascinating article, thank you! If I was so lucky as to win the draw, I would choose the M.Micallef Patchouli, and the JoAnne Basset Tetu natural purse spray. Lovely choices, decisions decisions!

  • I learned that patchouli is considered an anti-depresant and an aphrodisiac! Wee!

    Should I win, I’d love to try:
    Gerald Ghislain’s 60 ml of the “cult” oriental Histoires de Parfums 1969,
    Or
    All Natural Eleanor Jayne of Tallulah Jayne’s 8ml of Gotham
    Thanks!

  • Using patchouli as a flavoring agent was new to me, as was the practice of shipping fine fabrics with patchouli leaves to protect against insects. I’d love to try and grow some patchouli in the garden next year to keep the mosquitoes and other pests away.

    I’d love the chance to win Rien (which I have sampled before, but do not remember being patchouli heavy) and Gotham–I love the combination of patchouli and rose.

  • I am someone who isn’t a big patchouli fan but that can be changed since I would love to find a sexy one
    Speaking of sexy i haven’t had much lately after my so I will put some leaves in my bra or maybe find a voodoo lady to mix up a love potion
    For that matter I could use some help with expenses so patchouli oil on a piece of paper on shape of a dollar sign would be useful
    My choice is Anya’s pan because I am fascinated by what goat hair would smell like and HDP 1969 which is stunning and I am running out
    Great article and so informative

  • Sue Kucklick says:

    Gotham and Vintage Patchouly would be my choices. I learned that some people can’t smell certain elements of the fragrance and that it has antidepressant qualities. Interesting! The lesser known reason hippies still wear patchouli is for its insect repellent properties. 🙂

  • Victoria Casey says:

    I never knew that patchouli was a deterrent against insects or that it was edible.
    I’d love the chance to win Anyas Garden Pan & Montale Patchouli leaves.

  • I didn’t know patchouli was a leaf like mint or basil. I will have to try it as an appetite suppressant, although does that mean eating it or wearing it?
    I would choose either JoAnne Bassett Tetu, DSH Vintage Patchouli, or M.Micallef Patchouli. And some incense sticks could be interesting!

  • Love me some patchouli!
    My parents used to smoke pot when i was a kid and think that the patchouli oil masked the smell

    They actually took me to the Woodstock revival and yes everyone smelled like patchouli but it was so commercial and the flower children looked a bit wilted with age
    I was interested to learn that it has a more demure past and was used by queen Victoria to line linen chests and by Parisian women to keep moths away
    My choices would be verdigris and Montale patchouli leaves

  • I’m surprised that there is no synthetic substitute, but I prefer the real deal anyway. 😉

    If I win my choices would be M. Micallaf Patchouli or Tallulah Jayne Gotham.

  • I have been thinking a lot about Patchouli lately, and lamenting the fact that I don’t have one to wear- despite it being one of my very favorite scents. You’re right that Patchouli is a love/hate affair, and I am very much a lover.
    I didn’t know it was an appetite suppressant, so- as I continue to put off starting a diet, I will spray away! And I could certainly use some money, so it wounds like winning this draw would help with that too! Thin, rich and smelling beautifully in one fell swoop! Sounds good.
    My choices would be Montale Patchouli Leaves (which I have been desperately wanting to try for a long time), and my natural choice would be Pan. THANK YOU!!

  • I learned that it may have been originally from the Philippines (where I am originally from)

    CHoice would be the Hitoires de Parfum or Tallulah Jayne

  • Besides the perfumery uses I didn’t know the use of patchouli as flavoring and for covering bad breath and also as an aphrodisiac!!!
    I’d love to win Rivertown Road and Tallulah Jane’s Gotham.

  • What a great article! I learned so many neat things like there is no synthetic substitute. With its complexity I also did not realize that some components cannot be detected by people. Wonder which ones I’m picking up if I think it’s the cat’s meow. I hope most of them. Mostly I love that it’s associated with unlimited hope.

    Would love to be entered in the draw and I so appreciate the opportunity. Verdigris from Bellyflowers and Pan from Anya’s Garden (inspired by Jitterbug the book) catch my interest today.
    Thanks.
    Suzy

  • I found it interesting that patchouli leaves were used to protect cashmere shawls of elegant ladies, especially since it has the hippie connotation now. I would love to try the DSH Vintage Patchouly and the Micallef Patchouli. They all sounds lovely, and the ones I’ve tried from this list ARE lovely.

  • I didn’t realize that patchouli was a member of the mint family! Thank you for the informative article.

    My two choices would be: Histoires de Parfums 1969 (one of my favorite years ever) and Gotham, which sounds wonderful!

    (Tetu is fantastic too, but I have a mini of that fragrance.)

  • I was fascinated to learn that patchouli is a member of the mint family and that it was used to scent India Ink! I would love to win Montale’s Patchouli Flowers and Bellyflowers Verdigris.Thanks for the draw!

  • Another amazing article Elise!

    patchouli is so beloved! i did not know, however, “The name comes from the Tamil, patch ilia, which means green leaf. ” interesting!

    nor did i have a clue that it “can be substituted for graveyard dust in potions used in witchcraft.” i’ll have to bear that in mind for my wiccan friends.

    my choices would be Joanne Bassett’s Tetu and Anya’s Garden Pan.

  • I learned many things, thank you- the most interesting is the use in traditional chinese medicine
    my choices would be “Rien” and “Verdigris”

  • WOW. I learned a lot, but the things that stuck out the most are about the plant itself. There’s no way I would have thought that it was part of the mint family! Even though I know intellectually that it comes from leaves, it still seems like such a brown scent to be named after green leaves, if that makes sense?

    I’d love to try any of these. (And I’d be putting myself in for the 1969 if I didn’t have a bottle…it’s FANTASTIC, folks. If you’re undecided, go after that one!) However, my first choices “by a nose” would be M. Micaleff’s Patchouli and Gotham.

  • I learned alot about patchouli, namely it repels bugs and attracts love. Fascinating. it’s nice to know that there is no synthetic substitute for patchouli.
    I would choose M.Micallef 30ml Patchouli and Elise Pearlstine of bellyflowers, 15ml of Verdigris

  • The origin of the plant and processing methods are very interesting, many thanks for such wonderful article. I would choose Micallef Patchouli and Gotham by Tallulah Jane.

  • I didn’t know the minty part aged out of it ^^ gives me hope for a bottle of it I have at home.

    Also, its cool that people used to transport clothes with it! I am trying to imagine how they smelled.

    I would love to win either: Anya’s Pan, or Gotham by Talluah Jane or Historia de Parfum’s 1969

  • I loved reading this! Patchouli has been a favorite of mine since high school, and my SOTD today happens to be SL Borneo from my teeny sample vial.

    I didn’t know how many different healing and wellness uses patchouli has, or that it is a larger deal than rose oil in the fragrance industry, or, especially, that ” it turns out, quite a few people cannot detect various components of the patchouli scent. So it really does smell differently to different people” — that’s so cool! I want to learn more about how people experience the sense of smell.

    I’d choose Pan (Anya’s Garden liquid one) as my first choice from all of the scents, with Gotham and Verdigris as seconds from the all-natural camp. From the general scents my seconds are DSH Vintage Patchouly and M.Micallef Patchouli. Ever since I read about it containing a tincture of goat hair I have wanted to try Pan!

  • I found this article very interesting and informative, especially the botanical news on patchouli plant.
    I’d love to win Anyas Garden Pan & Rivertown Road by Liz Zorn.

  • I did not know that patchouli was an elixir for love, an aphrodisiac.

    A great article. Thanks for the opportunity to read it and for the draw.

    My two choices are: 1969 and Tetu

  • What a fascinating article and great draw!
    I learned so much from reading this, and did not know that different methods of distillation give different scented oils. I am also wondering if there are notes that I cannot detect.
    And I must try some patchouli magic!
    I would like to win Micallef Patchouli and JoAnne Bassett Tetu

  • You are right I learned quite alot! I remember reading on Andy Tauer’s blog about a variant patchouli note that he uses and glad to have read above that there are actually quite a few parts to Patchouli and everyone smells it differently, plus it is always great to see what the actual plant looks like =P

    I would love to win Histoires de Parfums 1969 and Anya’s Pan~

  • Didin’t know that it’s associated with wealth and money! Would love to try M. Micallef Patchouli and Pan by Anya’s Garden.

  • Patchouli is quite easily one of my favourite notes in perfumery. I hadn’t always liked it, in fact, throughout most of my teenage years I detested the smell, and often found that it gave me headaches. Now a few years on, I can’t get enough of the stuff.
    It’s great to read some factual information regarding its relation to the Hippie movement in the 60’s and 70’s. I too agree that it was most likely worn due to its originality rather than to cover the scent of marijuana. An overprotective ex-boyfriend thought as much of me whenever I wore wear a fragrance with a dominant patchouli accord. Rather amusing seeming that I’m so anti-drugs.
    Whenever I smell patchouli, I don’t think of Hippies. I see a lush, green landscape, the rainsoaked earth and exotic architecture.

    If I were lucky enough to win, I would love to own a bottle of Montale’s Patchouli Leaves and Tallulah Jane Gotham. Yummy!

  • I learned a lot about patchouli from the article, but it was a big surprise to me, that it’s GREEN. I always thought that patchouli is brown! (Or I always imagined it is brown, because I didn’t know what colour it is.)

    Thanks for the draw! My choices would be Rien and Tetu.

  • I learned that patchouli means green leaf-like the prior commenter I always associated patchouli with the color brown. Would love Gotham and Rien

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    Because I have always loved patchouli, I knew quite a bit about it and its use in perfumery. But I did not know that it was used in India ink, Chinese red paste ink or as a breath freshener. If I won, my choices would be Histoires de Parfums 1969 and Rivertown Road. Thanks for this wonderful drawing!

  • Huh, for some reason it never occurred to me that some people may be anosmic to certain components of patchouli, the same way that many people are anosmic to certain musk aromachemicals! Pretty interesting.

    My choices for the draw would be Histoires de Parfums 1969 and Tallulah Jane Gotham. Thank you!

  • A very-well written article about one of the most important notes in perfume industry.

    I would have never thought about patchouli to be part in witchcraft.

    I would like to win Pan and Patchouli Leaves.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • This article was full of new information! I also thought it
    was brown, but was most surprised by it’s use in skin care
    products.
    My choices are Gotham and M.Micallef Patchouli…

  • Terry Maloney says:

    I used to smell patchouli on girls as I grew up in the 70’s and I found that I couldn’t decide if I liked it or not. I did know that for some reason I paid attention to these people (mostly women) and was curious about who they were. I was not brave enough to wear such a strong essential oil fragrance. Fast forward 30 years …I have found many beautiful patchouli fragrances and love wearing them. Older and more confident? Maybe.

  • i did not know that patchouli is edible!
    it is my favorite note of all —
    and i would love to win histoire de parfum 1969 and anya’s pan.

  • Hmm I didn’t know anything about patchouli really except that was used to repel moths.So everything in this article was news to me. I think I’ll go and get some patchouli essential oil considering that is an afrodisiac and also attracts wealth.Would love to win Rien and Pan. Thank you

  • Patchouli related to the mint family was quite surprising as was its use in sen sen and as a breath freshener
    Since I never smelled aged patchouli before I always thought it smelled pungent and earthy like the oils you can get online
    I am very interested to learn how it has so many different aromas depending on how old it is
    My choice for that reason is DSH vintage patchouly and belly flowers verdigris
    I definitely will explore more patchouli perfume on the future
    Thanks for so much research that was fun to read as well

  • I had no idea that patchouli scented the original India ink and that it’s edible. Would love to win Histoires de Parfums 1969 and Verdigris. Thank you

  • I’ve already had the pleasure of trying Liz Zorn’s Rivertown Road, which is GORGEOUS! so if I won I think I would like to try the DSH (which sounds really ‘oriental’ (that’s a compliment) and the Tallulah Jayne.

    What a great draw opportunity! thanks!

    xo

  • Love the post. I had no idea there is a difference between patchouli distilled in iron and in stainless steel. Also being appetite suppressant.

    Tetu and Patchouli leaves are my choice.

    Thank you.

  • Other than the use of patchouli in perfumery, I had no idea of it’s uses as an insect repellent or aphrodisiac. Wonderful article! I would be interested in the Micallef Patchouli and the DSH Vintage Patchouli. Thanks!

  • Learnt many things about patchouli today. I did not know that it is an aphrodisiac. My choices are: 1969 and Tetu. Thanks!

  • The earthy vibe of Patchouli has gotten me the nicknames of Mother Earth and Mama Wolf!! I would choose the Pan and Bellyflowers:)…Thank you for such a beautiful history of my favorite oil!….Did not know of the Queen Victoria and cashmere vibe!…Also loved the explanation of distilling in different vessels and how it would change the essence:)

  • Didn’t realize that it may have anti-depressant and appetite suppressing properties. Very interesting. I would choose the M.Micallef and the Tallulah Jayne. Thank you.

  • And as a follow-up to my post….I forgot to mention that I would love to try Vintage Patchouly by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Gotham by Tallulah Jayne!

  • I love the idea of fine clothing being wrapped in patchouli leaves to ward off insects. I can see how Queen Victoria fell in love with the scent! My choices: Gotham & DSH Vintage Patchouli.

  • I did not know that patchouli was used as an appetite suppressant. Maybe one reason for wearing it is to cancel the munchies. If I were to win I would like to try DSH Vintage Patchouly or Bellyflowers Verdigris.

  • I learned many interesting things in this article about patchouli. What particularly piques my interest is that patchouli can be used as an anti-depressant; this is very useful information. Also, who knew that it could treat acne and cellulite! And, patchouli can be a substitute for graveyard dust in some witchcraft potions. Very interesting, indeed! I would choose 50 ml Etat Libre D’Orange “Rien” because I have needed this in my life for so long and it has eluded me; my other choice is 15 ml of Anya McCoy of Anya’s Garden Pan, because who wouldn’t want “carnal, sexual and animalic” patchouli!

  • I’ve found very interesting and curious the way that the use of iron will change the scent of patchouli, no idea that this kind of things affect the product this way.

    I would love to win Liz Zorn’s Rivertown Road and JoAnne Bassett ‘s Tetu.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • I didn’t know patchouli had no synthetic equivalent.

    I’d love to win the M. Micallef Patchouli, the 1969 or the Gotham.

  • Great article! I’ve learned quite a lot about patchouli especially the fact that it gets better with age. I would choose Patchouli Leaves and Verdigris. Thank you!

  • Very interesting article indeed. I didn’t know that there is no synthetic substitute for patchouli. I would love the 1969 or Verdigris. Thanks.

  • yeah patchouli, i knew it had some good relationship with rose but this article confirmed it, i created patchrose but have not commercialised it ye.it smells great. just like vertiver it has aprodisiacal properties and both were very popular in the 60’s and 70’s and they both go together arm in arm like brothers in Arms. it seems to be an allrounder too with healing properties.So Love, passion, healing, a bit of musk, and a touch of magic here we go with patchouli. if i was chosen i would like Histoires de parfums 1969 ( Ilove the name) and rivertown Road.Hit it.
    jamal

  • I did know patchouli was used to keep moths & bugs away from fabrics, but I did not know it had medicinal uses. I think I would like DSH Vintage Patchouli or Micallef Patchouli. thanks.

  • I did not realize that “patchouli” comes from the Tamil – and I even know a bit of Tamil!

    I also didn’t realize that the rose-patchouli combo I love so much was a classic combo. You can enjoy this (with some sandalwood, too) in Chandrika soap, which is imported from India. The scent of Chandrika always evokes South India for me.

    I also didn’t know that patchouli is sometimes used in perfume in such small amounts that it’s not detectable as itself.

    One more thing I didn’t know is that Chinese medicine regards patchouli as an aid to the flow of chi. I know patchouli makes me feel peaceful and grounded, so this does make sense to me.

    Thanks for such a long, detailed and wonderful article about one of my favorite scents.

    I would love to receive Pan or Gotham.

  • As it turns out I already knew quite a lot about patchouli. Maybe because I am a real patchouli lover for many years now. However I didn’t know that patchouli was used by Hoodoo practitioners and that it’s associated with wealth and money.

    DSH Perfumes Vintage Patchouly and Tallulah Jayne Gotham both sound wonderful to me. They both include my favorite ingredients patchouli and rose. Thanks for the draw!

  • I thought I knew a lot about Patchouli, but I never knew it was in the mint family! Thanks for a great post. My choices would be Micallef or Anya McCoy’s Pan.

  • Patchouli and magic how wonderful! Cashmere and patchouli how grand! An aid to balance the chi and peace and harmony will flow!

    Please enter me for DSH Perfumes Vintage Patchouli and JoAnne Bassett Tetu. Help me to be grand, magical and in-balance.

    Thank you for the education.

  • I didn’t know about scented patchouli shawls before – so very intriguing, and a lovely image to contemplate. I love that kind of history.

    My two choices would be Rien (non-natural) or Gotham (natural).

  • This article was so great – I adore patchouli and actually did have a plant that smelled amazing! I had no idea it was a member of the mint family! Now I want to get some leaves and fold in between my sweaters. I’m also fascinated that it gets sweeter with age! I would love to put my name in for the following two:

    Montale Patchouli Leaves
    TJ Gotham

    Thank you so much!

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    I learned that there is no synthetic substitute for patchouli and that it is a member of the Lamiaceae family, and I didn’t know those things before.

    The bit that’s hardest is figuring out which gorgeous perfumes to choose!

    “Vintage Patchouly” by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes,

    and

    (ALL NATURAL) “Gotham” by Eleanor Jayne of Tallulah Jayne.

    Many thanks for the information and the draw opportunity:-)

  • I so enjoy these fascinating articles by Elise. And I definitely learned a lot about patchouli’s use in perfume: It has no synthetic substitute; scientists spent almost 100 years describing its scent components; quite a few people cannot smell various components of the scent; and that it may be the single most important product in the fragrance industry.
    About the plant itself I never realized that it could be grown as an annual in regions other than the tropics — maybe a few leaves in the lingerie drawer is a possibility.

    Now for the really hard part: focusing on only 2 of the above scents. I would choose 1969 by Histoires de Parfums and, for a natural, Gotham by Tallulah Jane.

    Thanks to all for the generous draw offer.

  • I knew that patchouli was aphrodisiac, but I had no idea that it was associated with wealth and money too.
    It’s very interesting to know that it could have magical properties.
    Some years ago I did not like patchouli but I started to love it thanks to Etat libre d’Orange Nombril Immense.

    I’d like to win DSH Vintage Patchouli and Tallulah Jayne Gotham.

    Thank you very much!

  • I did learn a lot” I will have to see if I can tamp down my appetite, bring in some cash, and/or amp up my sex life! I also never knew it was a mint.

    I would like to win the Montale Patchouli Leaves and the Tallulah Jane Gotham.

    Thanks for the great article and draw!

  • I love patchouli, so I actually knew more than I thought! I wasn’t aware that it was used as an appetite suppressant, and enjoyed the witchcraft information.

    I would love Histories de Parfums 1969 and DSH Perfumes Vintage Patchouly. The incense also sounds gorgeous!

  • I didn’t know that there is no synthetic substitute for Patchouli. Also,,,I wasn’t aware that it can be grown as an annual. I love patch!! I would be interested in Micallef’s Patchouli, and DSH Vintage Patchlouli!

  • May I add that I would love Gotham as the natural selection, as I didn’t realize that DSH was not natural. Please count my 2 entries as one. Thanks!

  • Wow, what an article! I absolutely love patchouli and read this with greedy eyes. I love me some cashmere, and find it fascinating how patch got its fragrant reputation keeping the bad bugs away from cashmere and other delicates. Guess I will be hunting down a patch plant next year to grow on my back porch! I would love to try either the Montale or JoAnne Bassett offerings.

  • I didn’t know about Patchouli being used in witchcraft.
    If I win I’d like a bottle of Pan , & Tetu.
    Thanks

  • This is a great read and I learned so much. It’s an aphrodisiac, it is also associated with wealth and money, but most fascinating “It is also thought to be useful in magical workings and, because of its earthy scent, can be substituted for graveyard dust in potions used in witchcraft. Also, you can anoint doors and windows (or possibly yourself) to keep negative influences at bay.” Well, what a multi-tasker! If I were to win, I would love 1969, Micallef, or Pan. Thanks for the draw.

  • I learned the Tamil “green leaf” root meaning of the word Patchouli. Also that it was used to protect cashmere sweaters. I’d like to win the Martine and Geoffrey of M.Micallef because I’m nuts about Labdanum these days. For natural I’d pick Elise Pearlstine’s Verdigris. However I’d be happy to win any of these.

  • Had no idea patch was part of the mint family! Also, there is no synthetic substitute, very interesting! Great article!

    Would like the following:

    Micallef and Tetu.

    Thank you!

  • Interesting that patchouli was used to scent ink!

    I’d love to win Vintage Patchouly and Tetu.

    Thanks Elise for a wonderful article.
    Holly

  • Very good to know that patchouli does not have a synthetic substitute and what you get is the natural thing.

    I would like to win 1969 and Tetu. Thanks!

  • Great article full of usefull information!! I enjoyed the historical facts like that Queen Victoria lined her linen chests with patchouli leaves and I didn’t know it is always natural!! I’d like RIEN & PAN if I won although all are so lovely!!

  • Great article!
    I love the idea of writing with Patchouli-scented ink – might try that!
    Thanks for the chance to win.
    I would choose the Montale Patchouli leaves and Bellyflowers Verdigris.

  • The nonexistence of synthetic substitute for patchouli used to be true but not any more. Recently two companies produced each a version of synthetic patchouli. I had no idea it suppresses the appetite. Patchouli diet sounds like fun and no effort at all!

    Choosing between all these great offerings is like choosing between an arm and a leg. I want them all! I love patchouli, can’t help it! Still, I wish for Histoires de parfum 1969 and Anya’s Garden Pan and may patchouli god be with me. Amen

  • I found out that Queen Victoria lined her linen chests with patchouli leaves.

    My choices are 1969 and Tetu.

    Thanks

  • Wow, there is a lot to learn about Patchouli. I had no idea there was no synthetic substitute or that it was/is also used as a fixative. I also learned that Patchouli gets better with age, like wine.

    I’d love to win Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’ Vintage Patchouly and M. Micaleff’s Patchouli. Thank you so much for a wonderful lesson and draw!

  • Patchouli as an insect repellent?! That’s awesome and could actually come in handy. Love patchouli – Hate bugs. Win win situation!

    I’d like to win Patchouli by M. Micallef or Anya’s Garden Pan. 🙂

  • Patchouli being an anti depressant is fascinating… maybe due to its chocolatey aspects.. I had no idea thatatchouli had aphrodisiac qualities.wonderful article on a wonderful perfume material..
    I would love to win DSH Vintage Patchouly or Anya McCoy’s Pan
    Thank you for the draw

  • I loved learning that there is not a synthetic substitute for patchouli. My choices are Dawn’s Patchouly and Anya’s Pan.

  • I did not expect patchouli to be a smell that has a place in the sensual game of lovers.

    I would like to win Rien and Tetu.

    Thank you for the article and the draw!

  • I did not know that there is no synthetic substitute for patchouli oil.

    I would love to win Etat Libre D’Orange Rien and Tallulah Jane’s Gotham.
    Thanks!

  • I never knew that patchouli was an aphrodisiac, but perhaps that explains my fondness for it ;). I would love to win the M. Micallef or Gotham fragrances. Thanks for the draw!

  • I had no idea there wasn’t a synthetic substitution for Patchouli, but was aware it was an aphrodisiac, it’s so incredibly sensual-it’s always been my favorite note since I was a teen!
    I’d love to have a chance to win M. Micallef and Gotham, thank you!
    Liz

  • I didn’t realize patchouli could be used as a flavoring. I need to try this someday…

    I would love to win Rivertown Road and Gotham.

  • Linnea Wiedeman says:

    I wouldn’t have thought of patchouli and chocolate together.
    If i won I would choose Rivertown Road or Histories de perfumes 1969.

  • I didn’t think patchouli was a mint family plant. I thought it was a blend of a few other things, not a being of its own. I didn’t know it was made in Philippines and Indonesia, or that you could put leaves between garments. It was really a mystery scent for me, not one I really thought about too deeply. Thanks for the information. If I win, I’d choose Rien or Gotham.

  • I never realized that connection between patchouli as an insect repellant and patchouli as a popular fragrance.

    I would love a chance at the DSH Vintage Patchouly and the Anya’s Garden Pan.

  • I had no idea patchouli was a member of the mint family!If I won, I would choose Anya’s Garden Pan and M. Micallef.
    My husband would be very happy if I won because he loves patchouli!

  • Ooooh, what a fabulous article, I learned so much!
    I love how patchouli scents my linen armoire, but never thought to use it with my clothes… I will now!
    And how fascinating that different parts of the world prefer different versions of the scent…makes me want to smell as many versions as possible!
    Thank you for a terrific article, I learned so much!
    And thank you, too, for a chance to win some wonderful patchouli products! If I win, I would choose the Mermade Pan’s Earth, because I love Katlyn’s incense products, but have yet to try this one…and I think the DSH Perfumes “Vintage Patchouly” sounds divine!

  • I learned that patchouli is a plant that is used in many fields of interest, not only in perfumes, and it is an aphrodisiac.
    I would like to win if I am lucky: 1969 and Pan. Thanks!

  • Great article! I didn’t realize patchouli was the herb agastaches-i had to cross referance it once you mentioned Chinese medicine. Such great info: the moth deterrent, anti depressant, and that it’s always natural.
    I would love to win 1969 or Tetu.

  • I long have loved the scent of patchouli, I was raised by hippies parents awash in the stuff, it smells like family to me. I did not know the history of the use as an insect repellant for shawls. It’s funny to me that a scent that is now so often looked down upon due to it’s 60’s associations used to be a mark of high class goods. It makes sense to me that there is no synthetic for patchouli. Even the best quality, 10 year old patchouli still isn’t really that expensive.

    I would be blessed to try Pan by Anya, I adore animalic scents. Verdigris by Bellyflowers has also caught my attention. Thanks for the draw!

  • I did learn a lot indeed, but the most fascinating bit to me was that patchouli means “green leaves” and belongs to mint family. Surprising!

    Thanks for the draw. I’d like to win Etat Libre d’Orange Rien and Anya McCoy Pan.

  • Hi

    Excellent post on what is one of my favourite oils to work with, although I never knew it was used to scent Indian ink!

    I use it alot, both in soapmaking and in a balm I formulated for horses to help treat cuts and scrapes….patchouli was included in my formulation for it’s skin healing abilities(you can’t smell it over the neem unfortunately).

    It’s a crying shame that people unfairly label it as the hippy oil, it’s so much more.When used in a blend it can be sexy, sensual, robust, supporting, used as a fixative or as an aroma in it’s own right.
    One of the combinations I love the most is an incredibly simple blend of patchouli and rose geranium. Utterly feminine, deeply sensual, and totally entrancing.

    If I was lucky enough to win I’d love some of Anya’s Pan, and JoAnne Bassett’s Tetu.

    Beth

  • I found this blog very informative, however, I don’t really like patchouli. In the hopes that I may acquire a likeness for patchouli, I am experimenting with it in my perfume-making and skin care line.
    I know that my patchouli scented experiments won’t go to waste because my son loves the scent of patchouli enough to spread it on a warm biscuit.
    “Rien” sounds like a patchouli scent which may persuade me to change my mind about this essential oil.
    The Best,
    Margo

  • I have been mad for patcholy for 45 years. I did not know it had such a long history and so widely used in perfume. I’ll wager it smells a great deal better than your basic grave dust. I never di learn why there was a bottle of the oil in my father’s drugstore. However, when he closed the store that bottle came with ME !!!

    Choices?? From that list of riches??? Not one of them tempts me. However having listed the most interesting ones and then throwing two darts at the list I have come up with two. All Matural from Elise Pearlstine and Vintage Patchouly from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.

    I think life would be better if the whole world smelled of patchouly.

  • I had no idea that is was from the same family as mint, basil, rosemary, sage.

    It’s very interesting that it was used as a symbol of rebellion.

    I would like to try: Etat Libre D’ Orange Rien and Anya McCoy of Anya’s Garden.

    Thank you!

  • I didn’t know patchouli was such a complex scent that scientists have spent over 100 years trying to describe it and that it was used to protect cashmere shawls back in the Victorian age. I’d like to try Riem and Gotham. Thanks for the draw!

  • Thanks for reading everyone. It seems that there are a lot of patchouli lovers out there. Perhaps it’s not as polarizing as many people think.

  • I love Patchouli! I knew it originally came from Indonesia, in fact, I brought a tiny bit back with me from a trip. I didn’t know it was a member of the mint family. I learned that it blends happily with most other EO’s and sometimes forms a synergy with other oils. I think that’s amazing! I also learned that it improves with age and for some reason find that very appealing. I would have thought that all EO’s deteriorate with time. The whole article was interesting, well written and very engaging.

    I’m hoping for Vintage Patchouli of DSH Perfumes or Gotham by Tallulah Jayne.

    All good wishes,

    Christine Houde

  • I am most interested in how patchouli blends with others and fixes. Such a generous fragrance. But mint family, well it does seem to solidify it’s partners.

    Natural from Elise Pearlstine

    Rivertown Road – Etat Libre D’Orange “Rien

  • I like the grassier patchouly with minty aspects — didn’t realize that characteristic disappears with age. I would love to win Bellyflowers Verdigris or Anya’s Garden Pan

  • I actually knew quite a bit about patchouli, but not that so much of it is produced every year! $30 million is a lot of patchouli!

    I would like to win the Micallef Patchouli, and Tetu.

  • Thanks for the great article on patchouli. It is my favorite essential oil to scent my soaps with during rebatching. It lasts a very long time and mellows to a soft, woody scent. Yum! Pan’s Earth and Gotham for me, if I haven’t missed the drawing.

  • I am most fascinated by patchouli: it is a stong aroma but can be a trickster in a mix, enhancing hidden facets, hiding others.Your article made me more aware of the different aromas this oil can have depending on age, like a wine or a cheese, certain oils mature and change… for the better…
    I would be delighted to get Verdigris and Rivertown, should I ever be lucky!
    Thanks for the generous draw!

  • I use a mix of patchouli leaves and lavender flowers to keep the bugs away from my special fabric collections. I don’t know if it works but they smell lovely!

    A most excellent article! I would like to win the Liz Zorn or the Dawn Spencer Hurowitz scents. Thank you.

  • Fantastic article
    I am a huge patchouli fan and learned it was related to the mint family and was introduced into Europe in the 19th century
    If I should be so lucky to win
    I would like joanne bassett tetu and Dsh vintage patchouly
    Thanks for the draw

  • I didn’t realize patchouli is part of the mint family.

    My choices would be Montale Patchouli Leaves and Anya’s Pan.

  • I didn’t realize there was that wide of variation in the patchouli oils based on regions. I think I need to hunt down some of the US distilled oil, I would love to see more of the wine/fruity notes in it.

    For the draw, I think I would really like to try Etat Libre D’Orange’s Rien or Tallulah Jayne’s Gotham.

    Thanks so much for the great article on patchouli and the generous draw.

    Michael

  • I did not know that historically, clothing was stored with patchouli leaves to protect against insects, & the scent came to the a sign of high quality products because of this. I LOVE straight patchouli, blended with amber! If I am lucky enough to win, I would love to try either Vintage Patchouli, or Gotham.

  • Question: “Upon aging, any green, earthy or minty notes will disappear and the sweetness of the essential oil becomes apparent; in fact the true dry-out note will appear at about 24 hours on a scent strip. And, like a fine wine, patchouli gets better with age. ”
    I came here trying to confirm or disprove the claim a vendor made to me that patchouli (particularly if extracted via fermentation) continues to change in the bottle, but it seems as if you are referring to aging as being on skin or scent strip – can you confirm or deny?

  • Catherine – patchouli will change on the skin or scent strip and will differ from person to person. But it will also change in the bottle and get better with age. It generally mellows in the bottle and becomes sweeter and more complex.