With all of today’s challenges, it’s impossible not to consider the ways in which this “new normal” is affecting our daily work lives and our work itself. When I recently began a new  project developing fragrances for a hair care brand, I was surprised to notice some ways in which this pandemic is having a positive effect on my creative work.  In this month’s “Notes from the Lab” entry, I’d like to share a behind the scenes look at some of these changes and new found creativity as a perfumer during Covid-19.

Sherri Sebastian is an independent perfumer 

The creative aspect of fragrance development for me is typically messy and chaotic. Seeking to fully immerse myself in the inner workings of new formulations, I tend to clutter my home with the new samples I’ve created in the lab that day.  Blotters line my countertops and desk; sample jars are scattered throughout the house in no particular order as I automatically reach for them every time I enter a room.  Without pausing, I pick them up, take a sniff, and put them back down without skipping a beat. When something catches my attention, I will stop and take notes. My mind and nose are always working, noticing, observing, and feeling.  Looking for the missing piece, the right ingredient to add, and waiting until I have the answers before reformulating.

Creating order

Do I increase a note by 10% to make a broad stroke or do I carefully move towards the limit by incremental dosing in tenths of a percent focusing on the tiniest nuances instead? This can go on for months until the inevitable struggle comes together after countless formula modifications (“mods”), and ingredient evaluations. Eventually, I emerge on the other side with a sense of completion and gratitude, knowing that I’ve fully explored all options. This time, with my new development work, it’s been different though.  I’m not sure why, but maybe it’s because of the uncertain and chaotic times we’re in that I’ve found the need to create order in my home and with my work more than ever. It’s been a blessing in disguise in the sense that my home and office are more orderly than ever. (I think my husband is happier about this, too.) My intensity hasn’t diminished, but instead has become more laser focused and contained.

Outdoor Evaluations

Instead of having 50 blotters to evaluate, I’ve limited it to 15 of the top selections, letting the other ones go more easily. I’m making decisive formulation moves aimed to move the ball faster…and farther down the field.  I’ve set up “smelling stations” at various locations where I regularly stop and thoughtfully evaluate samples with the goal of taking the next steps.

I should mention the invaluable impact that working in formal laboratories in the fragrance industry has had on my work today as an independent perfumer. Working in a professional laboratory setting with ample resources, not to mention the intense years-long training period, prepares perfumers to work on numerous projects at once with skill and agility. Because of this experience, I’ve been able to greatly reduce the amount of time spent on actual formulation, instead shifting more attention to realizing a brand founder’s vision for their products through the scent experience.  I spend a lot of time at the onset learning about the brand before I even begin to conceptualize. Today I only work on one project at a time.  I believe this is super important for the magical “je ne sais quoi” that happens when the right scent marries perfectly with a product’s intended purposes. More than simply creating a fragrance that smells good, this “perfumery with a purpose” as I like to say, is what truly drives my passion for fragrance development. It’s been a pleasure to become immersed in the creative process in a more measured and calm manner by creating an environment that allows me to simultaneously focus and relax. Answers about which direction to take come effortlessly. I feel great about the new fragrances I’m making and can’t wait to share them with you.

Natural beauty of nature inspires creativity

Speaking of which, as I write this, my mind is gravitating towards my latest round of submissions— should I add an unexpected “green” molecule to make the top note pop, an interesting marine note, or maybe I need to build up the middle notes to push the top notes?  When I start down this creative path I know I will end up at one of my orderly “smelling stations,” allowing my imagination to dream of new scent possibilities from the best contender. It will be interesting to see if this new approach outlasts COVID-19 – only time will tell. One thing I do know now, is that once I venture out again my hair will be clean and bouncy, soft and shiny, and I won’t be able to stop smelling it.

—Sherri Sebastian, Contributing Editor, all photos by Sherri Sebastian©

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Sherri Sebastian is an independent perfumer and founder of luxury wellness brand, Provision.  provisionscents.com . She’s based in Los Angeles and is the Vice President of the American Society of Perfumers. Sherri is also a “super judge” in the Art and Olfaction 2020 awards.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon and @provisionscents