CaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces: Etat Libre D’Orange Secretions Magnifiques – Purity of Vision

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Etienne de Swadt (l.) and Antoine Lie (r.)

When I first moved to the New York City area one of my first stops on my first visit into the city was a tiny Greenwich Village bar called The Peculier Pub. Back in 1984 the access to imported beer was minimal and The Peculier Pub had a menu which boasted hundreds of choices. Right in the middle of the menu surrounded by a box was this: “EKU 28, the world’s strongest beer”. There it was, a challenge laid bare; if you loved beer didn’t you have to try EKU 28? Of course I ordered one and the waitress told me it tastes awful. Of course I didn’t listen. Of course she was right. When I took a gulp it was hard to get this thick heavily alcoholic beer down my throat I wanted to spit it back into my glass but my ego wouldn’t let me. Over many subsequent visits to The Peculier Pub I would watch this scenario play out many times over and over as each new patron had to try “the world’s strongest beer” even if it tasted like crap. Then a funny thing happened I started drinking heavier beers and learned that there was a savory side to beer. A few years ago I had the chance to try EKU 28 again and was less interested in the potency and more interested in the other flavors on my tongue, it was much more enjoyable. The perfume world has the same story for almost every perfumista who gets into niche perfumery with Etat Libre D’Orange Secretions Magnifiques.

secretions magnifique perfume etat libre dorange

Etienne de Swardt the creative director of Etat Libre D’Orange along with perfumer Antoine Lie wanted to make their first release something only few would like. They endeavored to make a perfume that was a challenge for the wearer. The idea was to make the experience cause the wearer to dig down deep and really understand what their idea of perfume was, nice smelling frippery or art that is unafraid to unsettle the wearer. Secretions Magnifiques would be an ode to bodily fluids not the least of which would be the fluid spraying from the fleshy atomizer on the label. Along with sperm, M. Lie wanted to include blood, adrenaline, mother’s milk, sweat; even vomit. The ability to capture all of this in fragrant form was realized when Secretions Magnifiques was released in 2006. Since that day it has regularly been named as “the worst smelling perfume ever” and if the quality of a perfume is for it to smell good then Secretions Magnifiques fails at that level. If, like me, you believe such a thing as olfactory art exists then Secretions Magnifiques is a masterpiece of confrontational modern art that does exactly what it set out to do.

Wiki_-_Feeding_©_Vincent_Castiglia

Feeding by Vincent Castiglia (2006)

[Painted with the artist’s blood]

M. Lie carries you through all of the fluids of life. From the beginning you are challenged with a mix of iodine and aldehydes which are made even more intense by a dollop of seaweed which has been beached at low tide. This focuses on the salty nature at the base of many bodily fluids and it allows each of them to come to life from this opening. The aldehydes combine with the ozonic accords to add an edgy chill down your spine which represents adrenaline. The metallic accord which conjures blood smells of fresh copper, The milk accord smells as if it is just on the verge of turning. The smell of stale sperm is almost a relief. As this evolves these accords combine to smell like you have regurgitated them whole along with the sour bile in your stomach. Finally in the end M. Lie allows the wearer to relax as powdery iris and sandalwood bring you back to more familiar fragrant footing and allow for reflection of what you believe you just experienced.

Secretions Magnifiques has all-day longevity and above average sillage.

Piss_Christ_by_Serrano_Andres_(1987)

Piss Christ by Andres Serrano (1987)

This is not something to wear to the office. In the same way you wouldn’t hang a photo of Andres Serrano’s Piss Christ on your cubicle. Secretions Magnifiques is something to wear to allow yourself to come to conclusions upon what you think perfumery and/or olfactory art should be to you. For myself, just like EKU 28, the first time I tried Secretions Magnifiques on a patch of skin, when being introduced to the Etat Libre D’Orange line, I was revolted and couldn’t wait to get it off my skin with a cosmetic wipe. As I have worn Secretions Magnifiques more and more over the years I realize how absolutely perfect it is as a composition. Its influence has unleashed many fragrances which have been unafraid to try and re-create unpleasant smells at the core of their architecture. There are very few perfumes which have ever achieved the purity of vision that Secretions Magnifiques has. I have come to love this purity and no longer think of it as “the worst smelling perfume ever” instead it stands as one of the most singular artistic statements in all of olfactory art.

Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle which I purchased.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor's Note: It was not my intention to offend wiith the inclusion of the Andres Serrano photograph in the review. It was my intention to show how over time something deemed incredibly offensive loses that initial passioned response and allows for less emotional discourse to take place on whether it is art, or not. My apologies to anyone of faith offended by its inclusion. No apologies if you think it's just bad art and are offended. MB

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7 comments

  • Wow, you have a whole bottle? I have tried many in the line and own a couple. My favorite is Bijou Romantique, a far cry from this one I guess. So when it finally settles down is the iris smell pleasant? I do get what you’re saying about it honing your appreciation for different smells. It just seems you’d have to be in the “mood” for it to wear it casually.

  • I have a small bottle of this in my Etat coffret. The first time I smelled it on my skin I could understand why it repelled folks, but I didn’t think it was that terrible. I left it on. That patch of skin smelled like Secretions after a couple of showers – as with most difficult perfumes, it is tenacious.

    I have a couple of friends that it smells great on – they even get compliments. One described it as “metallic coconuts”. I’m glad I have a little bit to explore now and then.

    Nice review!

  • An advance apology to ‘anyone of faith’ is a little unnecessary! If any mature adult still believes in imaginary beings……….well, get thee back to the 16th century! Serrano is a very interesting artist exploring boundaries of the body and boundaries of taste, something which Secretions Magnifique achieves as well. A very clever juxtaposition on the author’s part! Good essay!

  • I think it was considerate of Mark Behnke to add the note about advanced apologies. I think it shows he cares about all of his readers. I am a person of faith and was not offended; I always enjoy what I read on this site. If anyone is offended then there are plenty of other articles to enjoy here on cafleurebon.com

    I’ve never tried this, but I am very curious because Secretions Magnifiques has come up in threads so many times. I would have to reserve the title of world’s worst perfume until I’ve smelled everything. I enjoy when artists stretch the boundaries to enhance viewer’s senses and expand their mind.

  • StephenmMc, That was entirely unnecessary to mock people of faith. Mark was being very considerate and you just managed to be very juvenile and inconsiderate. Regardless of what you believe, be respectful of others beliefs. That’s what a “mature adult” would do.

    Thank you for this review, Mark! I’ve been tempted to order a sample of this one, and I think I shall. 🙂

  • viva la revolution, avec la fleur au fusil. Perfume is dead long live perfume. Walking the road the less traveled of creation knowing that nothing last in the maelstrom of love affairs, give me danger little stranger out of my confort zone. Here is Etat Libre d’Orange joyful nonsense.
    Bise
    etienne

  • Loved this article!
    Art provokes, and can provoke revulsion and rejection, which are valid reactions.
    I saw SM in a store years ago in NY and felt so weird even picking up that bottle in public. But I sniffed, and sprayed on paper, and walked around, and nothing else grabbed me like it did. So I sprayed some on….didn’t get compliments but also didn’t get grossed-out faces (that I saw anyways).

    Since I was only visiting the city, coming back to the tester wasn’t possible, but something stayed with me. I kept thinking about it, even though I didn’t *like* it, I was fascinated and eventually got a decant which I’ve worn a couple times at home. Mostly I smell the bottle. I get the aldehydes/seawater opening, and metalllic and bleachy smells, but no vomit or anything hugely horrible. I worry that I can’t smell the super-gross parts!