Elena Cvjetovic and dana sandu choose their best 2019 Perfumes
Thank you 2019, and goodbye! You’ve been quite a challenge. My love for niche perfumes is strong at all times, although there were moments when I felt overwhelmed by the number of new brands and releases. I test & wear daily three perfumes at least, listen to them, do my research and take my time to study them. Sometimes I find the right words for those I choose to review immediately, sometimes it takes months – I write out of love for perfumes, and the most precious thing I can give them – is my time. Time is the best judge anyway, so I’m looking forward to reading this list again some time in 2029:
My best 2019 perfumes, in absolutely random order:
Photo by Elena
Francesca Bianchi Perfumes Black Knight (Francesca Bianchi): Francesca really shined brightly in many of our 2019 perfumes lists but since I had to choose one, it is The Black Knight. Mostly because I think she stepped out of her comfort zone a dark, serene and meditative gothic ode to vetiver, leather and smoke with a dark red rose hiding beneath layers of fragrant armor. It’s striking, bold, uncompromising and untamed, and yet contains that typical Bianchi DNA. Once he conquers you, you’ll never forget him.
photo by Elena
Menditorrosa Talento Talismans (Amelie Bourgeois and Camille Chemardin): This beautiful fragrance inspired me to write a fairy tale Story About Little Rose and Mint. This delicate, finely balanced composition makes me smile every time I think about it. A frail, gently powdery geranium is touched by green mint leaves in the opening while airy roses shuffle their petals in a deliberately slow movement toward woody-green drydown. Brightness, transcendence, inspiration, and melancholy in a uniquely designed bottle and equally matching presentation.
Sultan Pasha Attars Juriah (Sultan Pasha):The first time I smelt it, I cried. It touched places and corners of my mind, thoughts and feelings that I thought I’d overcome, making me feel utterly vulnerable and painfully emotional. What a whirlwind of emotions, that Juriah! I keep hearing Carmina Burana (Carl Orff) “O Fortuna!” when I wear it. Sultan Pasha blends well to avoid overt harmonic complexities with Juriah, and the rhythm of the fragrance – seemingly straightforward and simple, is in fact deep and primal. A magnum opus cantata dedicated to iconic Ta’if rose and oud, using 2 different distillations of the famous 30 petals rose, Cambodian and Hidi oud, Siamese benzoin, amber and musks, and white ambergris. If there ever was a bed of roses I’d love to lose myself in, it is most certainly drenched with Juriah.
Parfums Dusita Pavillon d’Or(Pissara Umivijani): Pissara Umavijani created new accords of her own for this perfume, accentuating the heliotrope in Pavillon d’Or, and she was all smiles when she talked about it at Pitti Fragranze this September, prior to the official launch. Technically seamless blending, well-constructed structure, and evident creativity in use of her own accords result with a fragrance that takes you to an inner journey, bright and optimistic, so tenderly romantic. Orris prominent, with traces of mint and honeysuckle, heliotrope-centered with a hint of olibanum, settling in time on an oak and sandalwood base. Herbal and floral potion of optimism and tranquility, inner peace booster. (this is the third award for Pavillion d’Or)
Hendley Perfumes Bloodline (Hans Hendley) For American Perfumer: Bloodline is really also a great example of authentic, honest approach to perfumery: this dark, rich, exquisite creation was made for Mr. David Kern who asked different American perfumers to create unique fragrances, and Hans’s passion is well expressed in Bloodline. Because it was centered around special red cedar oil his father distilled, only 15 bottles were produced (Hans told me that there might be another batch produced in near future but it all depends on materials, and it shall never be the same). Bloodline is for me an example of passionate, creative, authentic, terroir related American perfumery at its best! I’ve never smelled a (red) cedar like this before, and the whole composition with tinctures of white pine fatwood, an artisan distilled pinyon pine needle oil and a five year aged vanilla bean tincture made me cry a little the first time I wore it. (this is the third award for Bloodline)
Monsillage Route du Quai (Isabelle Michaud): This is not an “easy” fragrance, oh no. It doesn’t aim to please, it either pulls you into its story or leaves you behind, baffled. I feel it as an impressionist landscape, created out-of-doors, escaping strict categorization in terms of fragrance families. Award winning Isabelle Michaud of Monsillage, just like impressionist artists, places importance on observation, insight and spontaneity while trying to paint the fragrant picture of a picturesque village in Canada, located near brackish water. Her childhood memories smell of clear air and blue skies, sweetgrass, seagrass, sweet and salty skin, and longing. Very original and different, bright and pensive at the same time.
Elena and Ellena! photo by Elena
Frederic Malle Rose&Cuir (Jean Claude Ellena): 2019 Perfumes was my Year of Roses, so when I heard rose, cuir, Frederic Malle and Jean Claude Ellena, my expectations were sky-high. It’s no secret: I love the man. The Great Illusionist strikes again! Facts: there’s no rose, no leather, and no compromises were made. It’s a take it (and fall in love) or leave it fragrance. Figures: Jean Claude Ellena‘s quote “Moin j’en mets, plus ça parle.” (The less I use the more it speaks) – 15 notes were used. IsoButyl Quinoline? Maitre handles them expertly, with care. Feelings: light and sheer at the beginning, an impression of metallic rose that has never been done before. A parallel slalom of what seems to be a windy-fresh rose-tainted Mistral wind and leather-vetiver harsh vibe, with peppery thorns. A new approach to rose it is, a bold statement subtly whispered.
photo by Elena
Puredistance Gold (Antoine Lie):The one that I still can’t find exact words for, but it swept me of my feet: new, just recently released Gold by Antoine Lie for Puredistsance: all I know after intense periods of time wearing it is that it makes me feel like a million dollars. Magnificent, glorious, elegant, and timeless me, inside-out, so forget about the notes and just enjoy the feeling. Simmering, shimmering, floral, oriental, dreamy and creamy. I shall say this only once: timeless elegance. No cheap tricks or frills, no compromises with materials used – just smooth, generous, a beautifully blended stream of high quality fragrance that is guaranteed to make you shine inside out. Gold! (always believe in your soul, you’re indestructible, you are..gold!)
photo by Elena
Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir: When I met last with Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne, the first thing I blurted was “Oh, I absolutely adore your Ta’if!”. Then she told me that I’ll love her new Ta’if Elxir even more, and was she right. 30 petals rose is hidden behind many veils, spiced up, dipped in orange blossoms, smoking hookah and eating dates. All this is just foreplay: enter the Queen, Ta’if rose, saluted by ladies and gentlemen of the court – broom, amber, and Cambodian oud, and as they bow to it, the Ta’if rose takes its seat at the throne. Why did I pick it? Because it’s not just about adding some oud to Ta’if: it’s a whole different story, above all elegant and classy with an addition of refined mystery.
photo by Elena
Love Kills, Masque Milano (Caroline Dumar): Yet another rose it is, and this one wasn’t love at first sniff. Maybe because I smelled it first during Esxence Milano at Masque Milano stand after trying out more than 30 perfumes and running around the fair like crazy. It seemed promising, but maybe uninterestingly simple and linear at first, a soliflores. This is why I take my time and give time to fragrances I think deserve it: what a difference a day made! When I tested Love Kills again later on, it turned out to be a saga about love, at first blooming wildly, with fresh Turkish rose buds and a little of geranium (again), as promises are made. When time passes by, the flower of love turns scarlet, like deep red burgundy wine, a full-bodied queen of flowers, lush and luscious. Just like some loves, it eventually withers and dries down, with dusty petals and crumbling earth to which they fall. Once I thought I would die for you my love, today I look at the remains of our love, musky dust of the romance gone with the wind, and the aftertaste of immortelle I’ll always remember. All that is left is a Masque Milano Love Kills tattoo on my skin. (check out the symbol on the bottle, it really looks like a great tattoo idea). Oh, Juliette! Waste no time. Love kills.
Elena Cvjetovic, Sr. Contibutor
It is hard, looking back at this crazy whirlwind of a year, to act cool and composed- 2019 has, in fact, rocked all levels of my peaceful sniffer’s world. On top, of course, there’s the fragrances- over three thousand, perfumes that were launched and only half way through December, the sheer volume of 2019 perfumes is maddening for someone new to organized testings; of all launched, I sniffed a mere third. While many of my colleagues are honoring e better known launches (including some previously sung by me)—I chose to speak about the lesser known 2019 perfumes.
May they, too, find their forever people.
Anfas Ishq (Christian Carbonnel): — to take something of a modern legend (hate it or love it, that’s what Baccarat Rouge 540 is), already replicated by innumerable copies, and make it better, is an act of brash defiance. Coming from the most improbable pairing (Asim al Qasim, the first certified perfumer in the Middle East, worked on this with Carbonnel), it’s no surprise it’s playful- but it’s also modern, sincere, and a strong blend.
Strangers Parfumerie Sangre Dulce (Prin Lomros):Not easy to execute on fruit in today’s niche laden with oud, hyrax and lava- but Prin does it with legerity, mixing boozy juices with red fruit, slight animalics, and moderated earth tones (balsams, tobacco). The result is deep but casual and somehow young, and thus very fresh in today’s (much too serious) perfumery. Chapeau.
Fillipo Sorcinelli Epicentro (Filippo Sorcinelli): oddly herbal, highly conceptual, and as atmospheric as Sorcinelli’s earlier creations, the cold, aromatic Epicentro didn’t cause many waves in the lava-laden, apocalyptic trend in niche today. But maybe that’s just the thing: like the eye of the storm, the epicenter is where events start; quieter, more condensed, transcendent, and thus removed from the reality of its effects. Add to this a social cause and one of the best packaging concepts I’ve seen in the past years (right up there with the Step Aboard cans and the Monom lucite), and there you have it.
Marlou Poudrextase going against the grain with a your-skin-but-lived-in approach, Marlou’s offering sits alone in a sea of pretty florals, harsh post-industrials, and naturally-burnt fragrances to deliver just the right amount of #jemenfiche and assumed corporeality.
Miller et Bertaux Menta y Menta (Vincent Ricord): beating to its own drum and away from most of this year’s trends, Menta y Menta reflects Miller’s poetic esthetic with a clean, sincere, and simply beautiful mint forged to satisfy—not to intrigue. A most joyful green, and a perfect palate cleanser.
Nishane Safran Colognise (Jorge Lee): overshadowed by its more publicized sister releases, Safran Colognise brings a timeless elegance to an otherwise very timely roster of fragrances. A seemingly natural evolution, Safran is less straightforward than its 2019 perfumes companions, stratifying the original Colognise’s green flowers and citrus with a fine suede accord, and a perfumy fruit context.
photo CaFleureBon
Homoelegans Like a Jewel (Luca Maffei): this conundrum of a fragrance is loved by many but discussed by very few, as it has no public display of notes—so let me: citruses, ginger, rose, metallic aldehydes, geranium, cumin, a hint of patch and some super dusty vetiver. They make it zing, which is most befitting for a concoction inspired by Freddie Mercury. Interesting departure from many other 2019 perfumes.
You can watch dana aka a_nose_knows video here
Papillon Rouge Secret Fever (rebranded from Souviens-Toi): is French perfumery at its best, sinuous, nostalgic, and exquisitely blended. And, although timeless, the approach (to build on patchouli with a monumental carnation) makes this somewhat fresh, as it falls into the sophisticated soliflores trend witnessed in 2019 perfumes. A stunner.
Laboratorio Olfattivo Nerosa (David Maruitte): Non-rosy, and non-leathery, and non-anything it declares, Nerosa does a great job at recreating impressions of smells out of expressions of non-related notes, like those images formed on a screen by the shadows of random 3D objects placed just so. The effect is almost like the negative of a photo where you recognise all elements but they are filtered and rendered artistic.
Les Indemodables Musc de Sable (Antoine Lie): gone straight onto my wishful-but-unrealistic (and shameless!) wish list, Les Indemodables Musc de Sable plopped into my nose’s consciousness with the brash, annoyingly defendable presence of those who are good…and know it. Nothing bashful here, nothing personal, nothing discrete or restrained— this is a tour de force of animal, spice, and everything nice, a simple but opulent composition of permanent effect. Yes, please.
dana sandu, Sr. Contributor
What did you think of Elena’s and dana’s Best 2019 Perfumes? Have you tried any? Do you have favorites or which of their 2019 perfumes you would like to try? While there is no specific draw for our finale there are still Part 1 Best and Worst of 2019 by Ermano and Michelyn here, Part 2 2019 Perfumes by Ermano and Michelyn here and Ida and Despina here, and Lauryn and Gail here.
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