Editor Ermano Picco and I began with an overview of the best (and worst perfumes) as well as the trends of 2019 from our perspective. Ermano lives in Milan, Italy and I live in New York City.  Once again, in compiling our best perfumes of 2019, we are more alike than we are different. Perhaps I am more familiar with American, indie and natural perfumes, but I think that is changing as more and more small perfumeries are shipping worldwide. –Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Best Perfumes of 2019 (in alphabetical order)

Amouage Love Mimosa (Elise Benat): Amouage former creative director Christopher Chong couldn’t leave his position with a better mark than this amazing Mimosa as the standout of the Secret Garden Collection. Confident and optimistic, this lovely yellow floral drenched in the freshly sliced cucumber and pear juicy greenness is all radiance and surrounds you with a powdery creaminess that surprisingly is never heavy, cloying or old-fashioned. –Ermano

Antonio Alessandria Parfums Dies Aurorae: (Antonio Alessandria) Combining high-mass incense with gourmand notes could be quite a challenge. Cold stones, old wooden benches, hazelnut pralines, hot caramel, orange rind and marzipan appear as memory imprints in a puzzle where every piece flawlessly fits. Dies Aurorae wears mellow yet never heavy, feeling so evocative and comforting, almost spiritual and innocent.  –Ermano and Michelyn

Chanel Coromandel Parfum (Olivier Polge): Coromandel is one of the most successful Chanel Les Exclusifs, I was really eager to smell its pure perfume embodiment. Inspired by the Chinese screens decorating Coco’s private apartment, this woody amber fragrance is already a must for patchouli lovers. Perfumers Olivier Polge and Christopher Sheldrake emphasize here the cocoa sprinkled buttery benzoin and patchouli Coeur duo, giving it a more mysterious, dusky bitterness that used to shine in Serge Lutens Borneo 1834. After some time you finally get the magic is the roasted creaminess of coffee absolute here morphed to the foam you can experience on top of the best Italian espresso. So chic.- Ermano

Chatillon Lux Weinstrasse(Shawn Maher):  A little over a year ago, Artisan perfumer and Missouri historian Shawn Maher wrote his Profile in American Perfumery. Truth be told, I don’t think any of us were expecting how talented he is. Weinstrasse inspired by the Missouri Rhineland where German immigrants settled, has one of the most realistic grape notes I have ever smelled. It’s as if you are transported and as you are walking through the countryside, venture deep into  in the  vineyards where you smell the earth,  greenery,  and feel  the sun peek in and out of the clouds. It is one of the best perfumes of the year. Notes: white grape, honeysuckle, iris, blackcurrant bud, lavender, helichrysum, sandalwood, coumarin, oak moss, musk. –Michelyn

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir (Jean-Claude Ellena) As I smelled Rose & Cuir, I immediately renamed it “the essence of a rose, or the absence of a rose”. It’s incredible how Monsieur Ellena sourced excellent new and classic raw materials, and obsessively perfected them to render an expressionist crisp green rose wrapped in wet leather, without natural essence of rose but through emotional details of it. The amazing bricks of it, especially the juxtaposition of brand-new Timur pepper and old-fashioned isobuthyl quinoleine, morph to a surreal floral dimension. –Ermano

Francesca Bianchi Parfums (Francesca Bianchi) Lost in Heaven: I have issues with animalic perfumes… they normally don’t mix well with my chemistry, which is why Lost in Heaven is one of my personal favourite perfumes of 2019. To find one that is sensual without treating my skin like prey is even more surprising. In Lost in Heaven, claws turn into sticky fingers on my lover’s skin, fangs bite softly without leaving marks. If pleasure was a perfume this would be it. Notes: Grapefruit, Green Tangerine, Orange Flower Absolute, Jasmine, Ylang Extra, Mimosa, Magnolia, Cumin, Cinnamon, Coriander, Ambergris, Musk, Castoreum, Beeswax, Iris Butter, Ciste Absolute, Opoponax, Heliotrope, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Tonka Bean. –Michelyn

Hiram Green Lustre (Hiram Green):A rose is a rose, but there are thousand roses out on the market and that’s hard to smell one bearing uncommon beauty. Hiram Green’s rose soliflore Lustre exudes pure freshness and balance in an exquisitely botanical hesperidic rose, with longevity and complexity. Lustre seamlessly radiates elegant iris and balmy woods in a dewy garden illusion that extends the rose soliflore theme till the last breath. One  of the best perfumes of 2019 for both of us. Michelyn and Ermano

IUNX Talc (Olivia Giacobetti): I was fortunate to receive a sample from Robert Herrmann before his passing. The color white absorbs all light which means it is the most reflective color and for me IUNX Talc reflects love and comfort during stormy times.  Although based on Japanese Butoh (the dance of darkness) I have seldom encountered a more life affirming scent. There’s Mme. Giacobetti’s signature transparency, and on my skin I pick up a silvery soft sheer iris that seems steamed in basmati rice.  In these time of uncertainty, it’s one of the perfumes I reach for the most; it reminds me of Robert and it feels like a scented caress after a long day Notes: Rice absolute, powder of white iris, essence of white cedar, ambrette.

Jorum Studio Nectary (Euan McCall): Euan McCall of Edinburgh-based Jorum Laboratories is my rising star of 2019 and has garnered two of my best perfumes of 2019. Using only the finest ingredients he captures the terroir of his homeland and his Nectary smells of blackberries plucked by the shore in Autumn.  This stanza from Sylvia Plath’s poem comes to mind.

“ Nobody in the lane, and nothing, nothing but blackberries,

Blackberries on either side, though on the right mainly,

A blackberry alley, going down in hooks, and a sea

Somewhere at the end of it, heaving. Blackberries”.

Imagine a garden untended, where herbs and roses  grow untamed and for me that is Nectary.  Notes: Bramble, Cranberry, Peach, Rose Absolute, Oud, Ambergris, Roseroot, Olibanum, Selfheal, Castoreum, Civet, Labdanum Absolute, Musk–Michelyn

photo by Despina

Marc Antoine Barrois Ganymede (Quentin Bisch): Last year, Quentin Bisch was my perfumer of the year and in 2019 he once again demonstrates that his second collaboration (the first was (B683)  with Marc Antoine  Barrois is a textbook example of how a creative director and perfumer can work together seamlessly. Ganymede, named for the Greek myth of a mortal boy who became immortal, also references Jupiter’s moon and immortelle the everlasting flower. One of the best immortelle perfumes of the decade, as it brings out every facet of the chameleon like ingredient from salty, to haylike, to spicy and almost maple syrupy.  Ganymede’s suede and leather is a nod to B683 with an out of this world mineralic accord that is timeless, unique and a future classic.  Notes: Italian Mandarin, Saffron; Violet, Chinese Osmanthus Absolute; Akigalawood, Immortelle Absolute.-Michelyn

Masque Milano Kintsugi (Vanina Muracciole): “Don’t hide your scars, show them with pride”. Under this motto , that of wabi sabi, Masque Milano has launched one of the best perfumes of 2019. Named after the Japanese technique of restoring broken objects with gold, the fragrance composed by Vanina Muracciole conveys the perfect-pitch sophistication of French grand chypres without surrending to heavy mustiness. The secret is a blend of top notch patchouli Coeur, savory amber and the clever mossy velvet of raspberry leaf absolute as a carpet for lush magnolia and a sumptuous rose de Mai from Grasse heart that shine like pure bone China.-Ermano and Michelyn

Cecile Zarokian,(center) Murat Kutran and Mert Guzel (left) NISHANE ANI

Nishane Ani (Cécile Zarokian): Part of the No Boundaries Collection, Nishane Ani speaks of mutual respect, peaceful co-existence and universal healing once existing at the borders between Turkey and Armenia.  The Nishane creative team worked with perfumer Cécile Zarokian’s to pour these feelings in a soulful spiced oriental where ginger and cardamom shine. Vanilla sings in the base, its glorious, comforting song modulating in unexpected leathery creaminess. Bright and contemporary, it suggests hope for everlasting harmony. –Michelyn and Ermano

Parfums Nicolaï Baïkal Leather Intense (Patricia de Nicolaï): Launched to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the House, Baïkal Leather bridges tradition and innovation in a stunning way. Traditional Cuir de Russie inspiration renders the classic smoky leather through innovative textures. The First Lady of French Perfumery, Patricia de Nicolaï chose a brand new raw material rectified pine tar from Biolandes (We fell in love immediately smelling it last year) and paired it with bright spices and mineral woodiness which gives a vibrating, youthful brilliance, yet its trail exudes the unmistakable luxe à la Française. Notes: yuzu, pepper, saffron, spearmint, rose, violet, iris butter, guaiac wood, smoked pine, tonka bean, white musk –Ermano and Michelyn

photo by Ermano

Perris Montecarlo Jasmin de Pays (Jean-Claude Ellena) The patronage of the town of Grasse as the cradle of perfumery from Unesco was one of the main trends of fine perfumery in 2019. Many fragrances showcased classic naturals like rose and lavender, but the award for the best jasmine goes to Perris Montecarlo. It’s no wonder the perfumer behind it, Monsieur Ellena has had a love affair with jasmine since his childhood.  Here you can smell the innocence of the fresh flower, its joyful sweetness and hints of its most intoxicating hues that made it one of the most celebrated gems in perfumery. –Michelyn and Ermano

Parfums Dusita Le Pavillon D’Or (Pissara Umavijani): Pissara continues to grow as an artisan perfumer and nowhere is it more evident than in the wonder that is Le Pavillon D’Or, her newest and possibly the most innovative of her perfumes.  Using 30 ingredients in her heliotrope accord, she demonstrates not only her passion for storytelling, but  a new found (humble) confidence in her technical ability. Notes: Wild Mentha Citrata, Honeysuckle, Orris Root; Boronia, Frankincense, White Thyme, Heliotrope, Fig Leaf; Oakwood, Australian Sandalwood.-Michelyn

Providence Perfume Co. by Charna Ethier Drunk on The Moon is really one of the sexiest perfumes I tried this year. Tuberose and I have a rocky relationship; often it wears me and elbows out any supporting ingredients. Here she’s a night club singer crooning to a hushed crowd with a silky voice that murmurs syllables instead of words, each note a jazz improvisation.  Natural Perfumer Charna Ethier’s tipsy tuberose with its fruity boozy sherry accord left me giddy. Notes: tuberose, rose, nutmeg, opoponax, peach, sandalwood

 Senyokô Paris Madama Butterfly II  (Euan McCall): I had read the Silver Fox’s review but wasn’t prepared for the rich and rounded beauty of this fragrance. It’s as if lush carpet of sakura blossoms and raspberries was unfurled under my bare feet and petals soaked in cognac laced with quince fruit rained from the heavens. –Michelyn

Shalini Paradis Provence (Maurice Roucel): This beautiful creation pays homage to the region of Provence. Its famous Lavender fields lend Maurice Roucel their glorious blue as the centrepiece for a peaceful and uplifting essence that captures the memories creative director Shalini cherished from her trip to the South of France. Gentle orange blossom and just a hint of savory thyme render the warmth of summer, when the light of sun at its zenith over a sea of lavender seems to melt your heart with its beauty.- Ermano and Michelyn

Tomorrow Sr Editor Ida Meister and Despina Veneti will have their Best Perfumes of 2019

Photo by Sebastian

Thanks to Nishane we have a worldwide draw of 50 ml bottle of Nishane ANI for a registered CafleureBon reader worldwide (if you are not sure if you are registered click here (you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible, what did you think of our Best Perfumes of 2019. Have you tried any? Do you have favorites?  Be sure to leave in this post and the last what you would like to win and where you live. Draw closes  1/1/2020

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

Don’t forget there are draws from our Best and Worst Fragrances of 2019 still open:

Marissa Zappas is offering 15ml bottle of Redamance Queen Nzinga for a 15 ml bottle USA registered readers only.

Thanks to the incredible generosity of Euan McCall of Jorum Studio we are offering a complete sample set of the Progressive Botany Vol.1 collection (6 x 1ml), for one registered reader in the EU, USA or Canada

Francesca Bianchi is offering a discovery kit of her 9 fragrances  (does not include Cuir Soyeux) for one registered reader in the EU, USA or Canada