UPDATE BEHIND THE BOTTLE: Nobi Shioya, Sculptor & Owner of S-Perfumes + 100% Love TWICE Draw

 

Why do some fragrances have a cult following?  Commercial success is not an ingredient; passion and talent are.

 

 

Even before Luca Turin -( dubbed by fragrance critic Chandler Burr as The Emperor of Scent in his book on Turin – published his acclaimed and critical guide to perfume with Tania Sanchez, Perfumes the Guide – I have been wearing 100% Love by S-Perfumes)"Both superlative oddness and mind-numbing comfort at the same time is pure brilliance," penned Turin in praise of 100% Love fragrance in his tome. "If there is a parallel universe in which smells are theorems, 100% Love would be something like a proof of Riemann's Conjecture Theorem," Turin continued, after which he proceeded to give the fragrance his highest rating of five-stars, anointing it a Masterpiece.

 

 

 While Riemann conjectured what is now the most glamorous unsolved problem in mathematics, we conjecture that olfactive esoteric language aside, 100% Love smells great – evoking rose petals dipped in white chocolate, but without the cloying sweetness of a linear gourmand perfume. The nose was none other than the legendary Sophia Grojsman, given the Living Legend Award by the Society of Perfumers in 1996, and the Achiever Award by Cosmetic Executive Women in 1994.  She created Lancome's Tresor, YSL's Paris, (the Reference Rose) and more recently Parisienne and Lalique Edition Limitee 2011 by Lalique. Calvin Klein Eternity, also her creation, was inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame .

 

Over the years, I have developed a friendship with the founder of S-Perfumes, Nobi Shioya, aka the Artist Sacre Nobi who came out of his studio for a look behind the bottle

 

Sophia Grosjman

 

Why did you choose Sophia for 100% Love?


Nobi Shioya: I first started to work with perfumers for my sculpture in '97; the first nose I worked with was Jean-Pierre Bethouart. The moment I entered the world of perfumers, I started to hear about a Russian woman called Sophia Grojsman. The more I heard about her, the more I wanted to work with her on one of my art projects one day. In the late 90s, I was still working around very dark, religious (Roman Catholic) themes, and the ideal perfumer for my projects was Annick Menardo (she is still my favorite perfumer). I didn't know Sophia at that time, and thought I had nothing that went with her style.

In 2003, my gallery at that time told me they were preparing a show call "Plastic Garden"; they were missing a center piece to fill the gallery since all the other pieces were going to be against the wall. I guess I was feeling LOVE in the air at that time! I immediately told them I'd make a huge shape of a heart on the floor in shocking pink that smelled like LOVE…and   call it 100% LOVE. Of course, I already knew the perfumer had to be the great Sophia Grojsman.

 

 What was your collaboration like?

 
NS: 100% Love has been an ongoing project since 2003, and we have changed the formula many times. It has been a great honor to work with Sophia, but above all, it has been such fun to be with her.  People had been telling me that she was an amazing person, and to me, she's been a jaw-dropping person! Sophia doesn't know, but I call her "dynamo" when I speak about her.

 

Are you working on any new fragrances, Nobi?


NS: I am definitely phasing out of my "fragrance period" but 100% Love will always be with me, and will be given/sold in limited numbers each year. Making 100% Love with Sophia was such a special experience, that I am compelled to keep it forever. To make this a commitment, I have made the effort to obtain and maintain the trademark registration worldwide.

Definitely make the effort to visit S-Perfume.com and experience the fragrance for yourself. After all, the "proof" is in the wearing.

Other fragrances and installations by Nobi  S-Perfumes, Lust by Alberto Morillas, Sloth (by Thierry Wasser)

Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

 

 Roman Zaslonov

Editor's Note: Nobi once told me that only people with sweet smelling skin can wear this in the way it was meant to be worn.

 

Thank you to Nobi for this draw. It is  for 1.7 ounces of 100% Love.  Please leave a comment about 100% Love, S-Perfumes, and why we hope Sacri Nobi doesn't phase out his fragrances. Draw ends February 21, 2011

あなたの優しさ、ミスターをいただき、ありがとうございます。 (MC used google) thank you for your kindness

SPECIAL UPDATE KEEP THE COMMENTS COMING TWO WINNERS NOW THAT NOBI SHIOYA READ YOUR COMMENTS

eDIT Otherspecia

my brain (TOP NOTES):
– secret berry from flavors
– sappy green from the roses thorns
– raspberry vodka
my cleavage (MIDDLE NOTES):
– deep and velvety Rose Absolu L.M.R.
my hip (BOTTOM NOTES):
– black cacao
– incense

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55 comments

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    100% Love = 100% Desire on my part (Rose petals in white chocolate? Yum!).
    Please enter me in the draw, if I'm eligible. Thank you, and thanks to Nobi for the opportunity.
    cheerio, Anna in Edinburgh.

  • Loved this article. I am getting the opportunity of learning of so many great perfumers from CaFleurebon! I think masters should continue..hint hint. Such a great partnership on this fragrance. I have not experienced it BUT I do have sweet smelling skin, and think that I would do the fragrance the justice. Thank You for sharing.

  • For me, it's quite simple. Perfume is a form of art, and great art should be preserved. There is already lamentation over beautiful fragrances that have disappeared – with IFRA being so ridiculous and beautiful materials like sandalwood becoming unattainable – why add to that dreadful list? If a great perfume can still be made, it should be made.

  • I really like 100% Love a whole lot – it's nearly gourmand, very berry-y to me but not obnoxious.  I would love the chance to win more than 1ml of it 😉

  • What is amazing to me is that when I read of some of the great perfumers here, how pleasantly down to earth and REAL they are.  I love that! 
     
    Perfume is the most powerful art form, bar none.

  • I always read about 100% love and se-x but always were sold out when I visited the site, now I have the chance to win this awesome creation, please put my ame for the draw.
    Thanks

  • taffynfontana says:

    Loved the article I really hope Mr Shiyou continues experimenting with fragrances. Please enter me in the draw it would be lovely to get a whiff of it. 

  • I have never smelled this and knew little about it until right now. I do think that if it is that good, it would be nice to have it around for a while. But I also think that if an artist wants to move on, they have that right.

  • I heard so much about this fragrance but never had a chance to test it. I would be soooo happy if I could put my nose into this masterpiece! Please, please, add me to a draw! And Nobi, please continue – creating beautiful fragrances makes the world a little better! 

  • Oh, how exciting! The other scents sound promising as well, particularely the S-ex.  Please enter me 🙂

  • I really love the whole line – and hope that none of them get phased out.
    Thank you very much for the draw!

  • I haven't smelled it and it is impossible for me to give any kind of opinion but I love the conception very much. We so much need that formulas are authentic in the sense that they are how the creator made them in heart, mind and spirit. the creation is unique and changes for ifra and so would only make the same effect as we see happening in what has been created: the earth, so that to make things easier we spoil it and make it a bad place to live even if everything is comfort.
    I have been told my skin is sweet in the morning! Does this mean i could wear this fragrance? oh, i would really love to enter this draw if possible!

  • Very nice and interesting article. I am not familiar with Nobi Shioya or S-Perfumes so I had to do a little research. I'd love to be added to the draw for 100% Love. Thank you!

  • I love the idea of using scent in gallery works-use more than just the eye for a multi-sensory experience. And better yet would be a chocolate rose fragrance! I wasn't familiar with this line so appreciate the heads up.

  • I'm also not as familiar with the line but would love to try. Wonderful article…and Tiara's suggestion of a chocolate rose…yes!

  • Always heard about this house and all the special perfumes that they have. I'd really like to win this one. The other one that is like a cult following is the s-ex that i think is described as a space leather… I have to try that one too. Thanks a lot.

  • I tried a sample of this fragrance, and it was wonderful. It's gourmand without being too sweet. I'd love to be entered into the drawing.
    Thanks!

  • Alyssa Taylor says:

     
     There are two things a lover should never stop bring to your door step on occasion~ chocolate and roses.  Nobi should not hinder his love affair with perfume magic!  Thanks Nobi and Michelyn!
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

  • Fascinating article, Michelyn. It reminds me of the connections between art and fragrance that Geza Schoen made in your interview with him last fall.  I haven't seen any of Nobi Shioya#039;s work, but will seek it out the next time I'm in New York.  I'm hoping that this is the kind of work Chandler Burr will be exploring in his new job as fragrance curator at the Museum of Art and Design.  It seems to be a growing genre with the perfume fountain last fall in a Greenpoint park by Anne McClain of MCMC perfumes, and not long ago Christophe Laudamiel's perfumed opera. 

  • It sounds like these are being phased out?  I remember finding S-eX extremely compelling but never got to try 100% love… The concept should be continued and the mix of art and fragrance a marriage made in heave~

  • Haven´t tried this one, but it sounds really interesting. Usually that kind of fragrances suits me just fine. I don´t know if I can enter the draw, but if I can i would love to. 🙂

  • My argument for keeping it going is similar to others: I haven't even had a chance to try this one yet! And reading about it in The Guide made me so intrigued. I love quirky rose fragrances, and I now own a mini of vintage Paris, which I love. But do I have sweet skin? I don't know how to tell. But gourmands do work well on me.

  • How do you know if you have sweet scented skin? The perfume sounds delicious. Where can it be purchased?

  • Chocolate and roses? Please, please put my name for this awesome draw, I always read about this one but never had the chance of trying it. Now or never!!!!

  • UPDATE  NOBI SHIOYA IS VERY GRATEFUL FOR YOUR COMMENTS. HE NOW IS  SENDING 2 BOTTLES FOR THE WINNERS

    Queen it can be purchased online. how do you know if you have sweet smelling skin. You smell like you have a slight vanilla scent to your skin

  • S-EX is an unusal fragrance and I like it. It really makes several turns throught its life on my skin. I am sooo curious about 100% Love and would love to be in the draw. Thanks

  • Please do not stop, Master Nobi, just as the American public is beginning–slowly, yes, but beginning–to appreciate fragrance.  In fragrance I believe we are at the point we were with wine twenty years ago.  I live right across from the Museum of Art & Design, and I hope to see your fragrance installations there soon! Thank you for your generous gesture with CaFleureBon.

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    S-Perfumes is one of those perfume houses which have made two of my favorite fragrances the 100% Love mentioned here and S-ex which is about as different a fragrance from 100% Love as you can get. Both are excellent examples of when artistic inspiration leads to something magical in a bottle. I would love to see what they could produce next if they keep making perfume.

  • Wonderful article, Michelyn and such a generous gesture, Nobi- thank you both! Have not tried any perfumes from the line yet, but Grojsman's Tresor was my signature fragrance for years as I do love rose compositions! However, now I feel that it is slightly changed, IFRA regulations perhaps?
    100% Love can not being discontinued then- as the world is more and more lacking fragrances made purely from passion and real interest, without looking on the material side and figures! And never enough of outstanding rose creations!

  • Hmmm…I have heard so much about this, yet haven't tested it. It sounds *perfect* for me given that I love rose and have very sweet skin (my skin amps up all sweet notes-even when they should not be sweet:) Please enter me in the draw.

  • The S-Perfume range was one of the first which I tested in my early days of perfume mania and I really liked them.  100% Love was my favourite and I still have a small decant of an earlier incarnation.  I would love to see how it's changed.

  • A deep impression on the heart for sure in working with Sophia, that is why he must continue this fragrance. I loved that he said he calls her dynamo! Thanks for double the prize…

  • I love the combination of roses and chocolate in 100% Love, a little decadent but not  too rich and overpowering. I didn't realize the perfumes were connected to works of art – fascinating article.

  • I have been intrigued by these for quite some time,,,I would love to be able to finally try 100% Love.  Roses and Chocolate,,what's not to love. 

  • I have not smelled 100% love, but I've had great luck with Sophia Grojssman's fragrances, and her Yvresse and White Linen are among my very favorites.  My skin does not smell sweet, but it smells musky, and I experience my smell as slightly sweet.  I wonder if it smells good on me.  If it doesn't, I will find a way to share the fragrance with as many people as I can to make sure that the fragrance — and the act of kindness — are not wasted.

  • I've just recently started my perfume journey, I haven't heard/read about these perfumes yet (I'm on the first chapter of The Book), so it makes me sad that such a masterpiece might be lost.

  • Thanks for this interesting interview which has made me know Nobi Shioya art 🙂  And perfumed art, no less. Oh, I wish I could smell the art projects inspired by Roman Catholic!
    And thanks to Nobi Shioya for this generous draw. I would love to try 100% love. I'm in the mood for rose scents, and Sophia Grosjman is a great perfumer.

  • ISA- thank you for your comments on 100% Love and Sombra Negra
    PIA: we had a great time at Elements and soon we are going to have a presence as a site for Esxence

  • Michelle Hunt says:

    I've been wanting to try this fragrance for quite sometime…and your description of it smelling of white chocolate and roses has my curiosity even more piqued!  Please enter me in the draw, thank you!

  • I can hear the passion about the creation. Would love to try it, please enter me in the drawing.

  • This woman certainly knows her roses!  YSL Paris has to be the best rose fragrance ever.  And roses dipped in white chocolate?  Mmmmmm!  I'd 100% love to try 100% Love!