Angelos Creations Olfactives Yloud Yloud 

Angelos Balamis approaches perfumery with the precision of a scientist (he is an electrical engineer, after all) the attention to detail of an historian, and the soulfulness of an artist. His creations olfactives are one of the best collections by a relatively new perfumer I’ve come across: highly wearable modern fragrances that glimmer with vintage facets. Balamis has a talent for conveying passion without overthinking; every one of his perfumes is entirely accessible yet always individual and frankly, quite lovely. His sumptuous new Yloud Yloud calls to mind those huge 80s bombshells like Dune and Giorgio that pile on the flower absolutes. But don’t let the name of this tricksy siren fool you:  Angelos Creations Olfactives Yloud Yloud is much more than an in-your-face throwback floral, or, as the pun suggests a ylang-oud extravaganza. With its dreamy sensuality and orchestral lushness, this like smelling the exuberant Mazurka from Delibes’ Coppelia followed, as the fragrance heads into its later stages, by Strauss’ voluptuous Dance of the Seven Veils.

Angelos Balamis

Yloud Yloud’s moniker cheerfully pokes fun at the flower’s brazen opulence – in fact, think of a floral perfume you consider “big” and I all but guarantee ylang ylang or tuberose has a starring role. But mixed thoughtfully, ylang ylang can be richyl sensual, drowsy and sloe-eyed. Balamis does not stint in his use of absolutes. At 25% concentration, Yloud Yloud comes with a warning that it “is not a perfume but an artisanal and artistic olfactory creation” that may exceed IFRA standards. Bring it on, baby!

Gold woman image via max pixel

In its early stages, Yloud Yloud is frisky and forward, like the popular girl everyone wanted to be or date in high school. The opening is all about ylang; camphorous, fruity like overripe bananas, vanillic and extravagant, with a hint of skank from civet. The vanilla used here is raisin-y, stripped of sweetness, which makes it an admirable foil for the bigness of the ylang. As Yloud Yloud warms up, a cavalcade of tropical flowers stream in like a particularly sexy corps de ballet. Chief among them is a glorious osmanthus, leathery and peachy, which adds a golden sheen to the composition. Jasmine peeks in and out, and a plush rose comes up quietly behind it.

It is at this point the perfume changes tempo and sizzles down to a samba. Whether “cloud” is hinted at in Yloud Yloud’s name or a happy accident, it seems appropriate to Yloud Yloud’s late stages. Balamis’ use of dense, fruity-earthy agarwood and orris brings a shift in mood. Two different agarwood oils are used  – one from Malaysia what accents the leathery qualities of the osmanthus earlier in the trajectory, and one from Cambodia with more animalic aspects. As the agarwoods come forward, they add a dense, woody layer. The fragrance becomes creamy and smooth as geranium and rose come forward and the vanilla and orris merge. Yloud Yloud shimmies from “look at me!” all-out opulence to a sublime, sensual brew that invites close proximity. It is, to quote Jonathan Van Ness, “gorg.”

If you have not yet tried any of Angelos Balamis’ perfumes, I advise you to get on it straightaway. He is so good at perfumery that the first batch of Yloud Yloud, which is limited to 25 bottles, is bound to sell out in no time. Don’t miss out.

Notes: Muguet accord, ylang ylang absolute, rose damascena absolute from Turkey, jasminum grandiflorum absolute from Egypt, orris butter (high irones), clove bud, benzoin Siam, vanilla absolute, osmanthus absolute, patchouli absolute, musk, nagarmotha, sandalwood W. Australia, sandalwood East India, buddha wood, gurjun balsam, tonka bean tincture, civet (synthetic), agarwood oil from Malaysia, agarwood O\oil from Cambodia.

Samples of Angelos Creations Olfactives Yloud Yloud kindly provided by Angelos Creations Olfactives. My opinions, as always, are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Angelos Creations Olfactives Discovery Set

Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Creations Olfactives, we have a discovery set of all 10 fragrances in 2ml spray glass sprayers for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Yloud Yloud, whether you have tried any Angelos Creations Olfactives fragrances, and where you live. Draw closes 4/27/2022.

Angelos’ new website is www.angelosolfactives.com

Angelos Balamis was Michelyn’s rising star of 2020

 Yassami was one of Lauryn’s top ten fragrances of 2020

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