Amouage Jubilation 25 Review + Christopher Chong’s Neo-Chypre Draw

Amouage Jubilation 25 review

Lisa Fonssagrives on the Eiffel Tower, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1939 apped and Amouage Jubilation 25

A sly sense of fun hinted at behind that elegantly arched brow, her sensual dancer’s body a striking contrast to her comme il faut hauteur, the extraordinary Lisa Fonssagrives was the queen of the angular swans of the 40s and 50s. Fonssagrives is the patrician beauty you have seen a thousand times: swaying in an ivory corset like a violin; surprised eyes peeking from above a huge black cowl; and, most famously, swinging from the Eiffel Tower one-handed, her sinuous form making recklessness the ultimate elegance. If Fonssagrives could have bottled that moment, with its sense of danger, utter joyousness and supreme elegance, and somehow added everything that made her magical, it would be Amouage Jubilation 25.

Half of the first pair (2008) of masculine and feminine perfumes introduced by former creative director Christopher Chong  (with perfumer Lucas Sieuzac) Amouage Jubilation 25 was, at her entrance, largely eclipsed by her more famous brother, Jubilation XXV. Which is a shame, because Jubilation 25 is one of the most glorious neo-chypres ever dreamt up: rich, saturated, both angular and rounded, nodding to bygone beauties while every inch a modern woman. A sauntering, sexy, animalic and unapologetically green fragrance, Jubilation 25 belongs on a woman who knows what she’s about or a man who doesn’t give a flying about his feminine side.

Best vintage perfumes

Lisa Fonssagrives, photo by Irving Penn for Vogue ©

The references to the great vintage chypres are there in stages: The tarragon note in the assertive, brilliant, sparkling opening recalls the great eccentric 1937 Schiaparelli Shocking but where Shocking veers fruity-floral, Jubilation 25 heads straight into classic green chypre territory. Smell it just moments after the tarragon-lemon opening has subsided, and you would be forgiven for thinking this is Guerlain Mitsouko’s naughtier little sister. But there’s a lot of clever trickery going on in here, and some world-class blending of notes. I would swear blind that this is a chypre; it lacks any oakmoss and bergamot. While one could argue lemon stands in for bergamot, there is no analogue for oakmoss. Yet  Chong  with  Sieuzac achieved the sense of both notes without being literal, creating a rich green fragrance unafraid of sharp edges but rounded by a full-bodied softness.

Initially, Amouage Jubilation 25 is like a 1950s Dior suit, perfectly structured but contained. But by the mid-stages, there’s menace underneath all that controlled good breeding, something animal and risky. The earthier notes fill out, and patchouli becomes a warming, mulchy companion for tendrils of restrained frankincense. The perfume changes gears, becoming more animal and lush. Full-bodied Ylang ylang merging with amber adds a sensual dimension, helping to create the richness that marks Jubilation 25. The ghosts of chypres past peek back in from time to time: rock rose combining with that tarragon note as the mid-section develops brings back thoughts of Shocking, with its lipstick rose; the sweaty note that amplifies over time recalls Rochas Femme. But at every stage, Jubilation 25 remains very much her own woman. And she’s not done yet.

AmouageJubilation25 review neo vintage 2008

Lisa Fonssagrives, photo by Irving Penn for Vogue©

What sets this fragrance apart from vintage homages is the saturated, deep layering of notes, and the aggressive way the animalic and sharp greenery bump up against each and then embrace. While this fragrance could have easily toppled over into 80s bigness,   keen control keeps the perfume bold but centered and balanced. While this is not a fragrance for the sedate, if you have a Selina Kyle stored away, or Lisa Fonssagrives laughing at her own crazy daring, this is one fragrance you won’t want to miss. What a brilliant debut it was.

Notes: Tarragon, lemon, ylang ylang, Rock rose, frankincense, davana, labdanum ciste, patchouli, amber, vetiver, musk, myrrh.

Disclaimer: Amouage Jubilation 25 generously provided by Europerfumes distributor in the U.S. for Amouage. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Christopher Chong 2019 Photo By Jay Brooks©

Christopher Chong announced he has left Amouage last month. Please read  Guest Contributor Michael Devine’s tribute to one of the best creative directors in 21st century niche perfumery here

Amouage Jubilation 25 review

photo by Lauryn©

Thanks to the generosity of Europerfumes, USA distributor for Amouage, we have a 100 ml tester bottle of Amouage Jubilation 25 for one registered reader in the USA To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Jubilation 25 based on Lauryn’s review. Draw closes 6/28/2019.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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44 comments

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I know and love Jubilation 25 very well and would be thrilled to be in this draw. Though I know it well, Lauryn describes so many aspects of it so deftly–the dichotomy of sumptuousness and restraint that keeps it veering into the vulgar territory, the way the green herbal note of tarragon plays in the scent, even the scents Lauryn describes Jubilation as referencing are certainly all on point! Thanks so much for the draw–I’m in the US.

  • twiggy3634 says:

    This review gives me confidence that, as a quite masculine man, I could still pull this scent off. Although I am not insecure about the gender roles of fragrance, it is assuring to know there is a dirty animalic side to help sway it in my direction.

  • Much homage to Mr. Chong. His vision and direction has led to many great – though sometimes overshadowed – creations!! (Commenting from FL, USA)

  • “The perfume changes gears, becoming more animal and lush.”
    This is the transition that stands out to me. The patchouli and frankincense take this down another path. Great description, including the initial reference to Fonssagrives. Thanks to Europerfumes and CaFleureBon for the opportunity.

  • I am familiar with the Amouage XXV by Bertrand but not Amouage 25. It sounds glorious as I love vintage style perfumes. I read Michael’s tribute to Mr. Chong and can’t wait to see what you do next.

  • Damiana C says:

    Jubilation 25 seems very appealing because it pays homage to vintage chypres. I appreciated reference to Schiaparelli’s musky Shocking, although this appears to be much greener. This is a great opportunity, thank you. I live in the USA.

  • More animal and lush, sounds awesome. Great description by Lauryn. I would love to win this, thanks for the wonderful giveaway.

  • Jubilation 25 sounds amazing to me because I love a good chypre, and yet it also contains many notes that I don’t traditionally associate with chypres. I’m very intrigued! Thanks so much for the the opportunity to enter this generous draw.

  • i have amouage 25 (so not participating int he draw) — it’s everything i love about a dense, old-fashined chypre along the lines of aromatics elixir (which latter is one of my all-time favorites), and yes, femme and mitsouko, too.

    a question: my bottle is the one that’s pictured at the beginning of this lovely essay (with the opaque plastic cap). is the one with the gold cap a new bottle for this juice? or has the juice itself been tweaked?

  • fazalcheema says:

    Love Jubilation 25. i did not know the male counterpart is more popular because i thought this one is more popular. As the article notes, it did remind me of Mitsouko as well and it can be treated as modern chypre. I am in US.

  • Doni Light says:

    The men’s version is easily my favourite from Amouage but I’ve strangely never gotten to sample this one. Love the imagery of animalics wrapped up in a perfectly tailored suit. The transitions in and out of chypre territory also sound fascinating. Never experienced a chypre that wasn’t one from start to finish, but I suppose there’s always a first time!

  • NiceVULady says:

    This review was a truly wonderful and clear description of the notes and how they function together to form and move in Jubilation 25. I’ve never tried this fragrance, but chypres are marvelous to wear. Who would want a a “1950s Dior suit, perfectly structured but contained. ” And then to bring in frankincense, amber et al. Mmmmm. Thank you for a most informative review and a generous draw. I’m in the USA

  • I adore Jubilation 25….it and Epic are my favorite Amouage perfumes. Love the comparison to a 1950s Dior suit. I’ve had a sample of it and would only wear it when I was feeling powerful or needing desperately to feel powerful. Thanks so much for the draw….I’m in the US.

  • I sampled this, along with Amouage Gold pour Femme, extensively and, though it was difficult to choose between the two, I ultimately purchased Gold. I have questioned my choice ever since and would love to own Jubilation 25. ‘Animal, lush’ and ‘lipstick rose’ descriptives tell me I should gave gone with Jubilation. Thank you for the chance, I am in the US.

  • “saturated, deep layering of notes, and the aggressive way the animalic and sharp greenery bump up against each and then embrace.”
    This is what grabs me because green scents are great to me during summer mainly and animalic always!

    Thank you cafleurebon and europerfumes for the chance, would love to try this.
    USA

  • bigscoundrel says:

    I am a big fan of Amouage and Jubilation 25 for men. Jubilation 25 for women would be perfect for my wife. She loves chypres. I’m in the USA.

  • I’m new to the world of fragrance, but have wanted to experience one of Amouage’s creations since the beginning this hobby. This sounds ideal, as some of my recent discoveries have been vintage or vintage-inspired chores. Thank you for the always-illuminating review. I’m in the US.

  • I love the earthy notes in the fragrance and also the deep layering of notes. I appreciate the fact that it pays homage to vintage chypres.
    I live in California.

  • Because I know Jubilation 25 so well it already appeals to me. Reading Lauryn’s personal take would have me looking at it in new ways in the future. US

  • Some days I feel like I’m “swinging from the Eiffel Tower.” No worries, I’m hanging on tightly. I’m drawn to the notes of frankincense and myrrh. USA Thanks for the opportunity to sniff.

  • To me Jubilation 25 is 100% unisex , and i know a few guys,my husband included that find it completely wearable , and i’m talking male Amouage fans.
    As a woman i do love the house of Amouage , but to be honest i much prefer men’s versions.Reflection Men > Reflection Women , Lyric Man>Lyric Women and so on.
    Own full bottles of Jubilation XXV – 100% unisex fragrance too , Journey Woman -the only one better than men’s version, and 10ml decant of Lilac Love-a fragrance i adore , and i do plan to get full bottle.
    To me Jubilation 25 is one of the very few women counterparts , on pair with men’s versions.
    Amouage is such a great house with high quality fragrances – every fragrance lover should have at least one in her/his collection.There is only one fragrance from the brand i don’t like.It’s called Opus IX – on my skin is SUPER indolic and animalic at the same time -not my thing at all.
    Thanks Lauryn for your opinion about Jubilation 25 , and Europerfumes for the draw.
    VA

  • tuiu silver says:

    I’m a Chypre lover, so it was intriguing for me to see that Lauryn said “it’s a chypre, but not a chypre”, due to the green and sharp elements of the fragrance, backed up by a full body softness.
    The way Lauryn described it as a vintage but modern fragrance, with a Chypre like style, having a beautiful patchouli, rose and a bit animalic approach… I can’t… I’ts just delightfull to imagine such a thing haha.
    I would LOVE to win this beauty, and wear it pationnally.
    Thank you for this draw, and I would like to join it please.

  • Jubilation 25 sounds unique, and no doubt it’s Shapeshifting fragrance like all Amouage fragrances I personally know.
    Jubilation XXV is a staple in my collection . Smells a bit like a mix between BlackBerry crumble traybake and BlackBerry Swirl Muffins with honey butter both with cinnamon. Can’t help it- Pastry Chef in me goes forward 🙂
    Appreciate the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • “What sets this fragrance apart from vintage homages is the saturated, deep layering of notes, and the aggressive way the animalic and sharp greenery bump up against each and then embrace.” This sounds very appealing! Cheers, from Oregon.

  • I love Lauryn’s review taking me back to memory lane. I remember the powerful fragrances of the 80’s, very bold and beautiful. This fragrance Amouage Jubilation 25 sounds really good. I live in CA, USA.

  • I love Lauryn’s review taking me back to memory lane. I remember the powerful fragrances of the 80’s, very bold and energetic. This fragrance Amouage Jubilation 25 sounds really good. I live in CA, USA.

  • smellslikehappiness says:

    Vintage chypres are a new realm of discovery for me lately, and I’ve gotten deep into animalics this year as well, so I’d love to try Jubilation 25 which sounds like perfection in a bottle! Thank you for the draw, live in the US.

  • I get dizzy just looking at that first image of Lisa swaying on top of the Eiffel. I love chypres, and green, and I would love to try this one. Thank you for the review, and the reminder to read Michael’s tribute. In the us

  • Gabriel Garcia Leyva says:

    Great review by Lauryn, I’m quite familiar with Jxxv, etc, and I must say that by amouage Mr Chong as an important part of the best releases.
    I would like to enter the draw.
    Las Vegas NV

  • IvanVelikov says:

    Rich and saturated we all love. The transition between fruity-floral to classic green chypre intrigues me a lot.
    Incense fan here so I have to check it out . Amouage sure know how to make incense fragrances. To me Interlude Man is one of the best ever created. Stunning fragrance.Happy to own it.
    Thank you for the great draw
    USA

  • No wonder Jubilation 25 was , and is largely eclipsed by her brother Jubilation XXV.
    Jubilation XXV is a masterpiece of a fragrance. If I have to live with 3-4 fragrances until the rest of my life Jubilation XXV will be one of those 4. First time I’ve smelled it my eyes started rolling out.
    I don’t know the 25 sister, but just saw both share a lot of notes. I’m not expecting a similar fragrances, but in the same vane maybe?
    Thank you all for the draw
    USA

  • what draws me to Jubilation 25 is the “saturated, deep layering of notes” as lauryn mentioned. sounds like a gorgeous perfume. USA

  • AlwaysWater says:

    It was nice to read your thoughts on this one’s alterations on the Chypre formula. I love them in theory, but don’t particularly like oakmoss so it’s been hard to find one I’d like. This one sounds fantastic however, as I love the smell of herbs, incense, and ylang ylang. -usa

  • wildevoodoo says:

    What a fascinating fragrance. Lauryn makes it sound opulent without being gaudy, green without being damp, just chypre enough while flouting chypre tradition. And I love Lisa Fonssagrives, so the comparison with her Eiffel Tower photo has me even more intrigued! Also drawing me in is the allure of owning one of the fragrances Mr. Chong made for Amouage before his departure. I’d love the chance to try this daring and elegant fragrance. I am in the US!

  • I love vintages and would be interested in a vintage homage. I have not tried enough from this house. Am in USA.

  • I believe I have a sample of this that I haven’t used yet. Would love to win a bottle. Enjoyed the article, thanks US

  • Amouage fragrances are really unique. All i have smelled you should never get without sampling first. Some could smell completely different on every person spaying them on skin. For example both Sunshine Men , and Reflection Man are two completely different scents on me , and on my husband. For example Sunshine Men is a gourmand on me , but on hubby is dry , herbal and sour .
    I’m not questioning Lauryn Beer of course, but if it’s Amouage we are talking about I’m trusting no one, but my own nose, and skin, even though I like her energetic review.
    Beautiful draw thank you
    USA

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading how Lauryn described the contrast between the animalic and green sides of this fragrance. I like that it can be for a man not afraid to show his feminine side. Isn’t it fun to wear fragrances that are filled with trickery and stages, and that allude to the great fragrances of the past?
    I live in the USA.

  • WaltherP99 says:

    “My opinions are my own.”
    I really like how contributors on Cafleurebon are ending their reviews with this line , unlike some Youtubers who think their opinion is Absolute. We all have different skins, perceptions and taste.
    I’m familiar with Jubilation 25 , and I get something very different, compared to what Lauryn is getting. To me it’s not chypre at all, but Oriental, or more like floriental. Comparisons with Mitsouko I don’t get . Green I barely get at all. For the most part from the very start, the base, until the very end I get Myrrh, amber , incense, rose and ylang ylang .
    On my skin it a modern scent.
    Atm i do own 4 Amouage fragrances – Jubilation XXV for men – the best Amouage fragrance , Intelude Man also known as “The Blue Beast” , Lilac Love and Blossom Love .
    I wear only what like-designer,niche,indie. Don’t care if it’s marketed for guys or girls. All it matters to me is my own opinion.I not only own and love Lilac Love and Blossom Love , but quite a few fragrances marketed for women.Does not bother me one bit.I’m wearing Black Orchid by Tom Ford right now-love it.
    Even though our opinions differs quite a bit, I do appreciate Lauryn review. It’s done in a very nice way.
    Thank you for this generous draw.
    USA

  • Michael Prince says:

    Lauryn, great review of Amouage Jubilation 25. It sounds like a powerhouse green fragrance with bright citrus and a classic touch. I am from the USA.

  • Great article on a scent that I have smelled and I would love to own!! This is exquisite and probably one of my favorite Chypre’s. Wonderful notes in this one. I can’t wait to see what Mr. Chong does next!! Thanks for the draw and I live in the US!

  • What a complex mixture of notes! So earthy and spicy with rose in the mix! I’ve never owned any Amouage fragrances nor have I even ever smelled any. This one would be a lovely one to start with!
    I live in the US.

  • Thanks Lauryn and Europerfumes for the review and bottle of Amouage Jubilation 25. I read this a few days ago I forgot to log in I guess. Christopher Chong will be missed for sure. How looong have I imagined owning a bottle of this gorgeous juice. I’ve read/heard so much about this over the years but have not been able to obtain it yet. Lauryn has described similarities to Mitsouko(fav) Rocha femme a tricky Chypre animalic and green and I’m literally dying to have it. USA