2022 Esxence – The Art of Excellence Best of Show part 2: + new launches and trends giveaway

 

 “Through the mirror” wall at the entrance of Esxence 2022 at MiCo

 Ermano “Through the mirror” wall at the entrance of Esxence at MiCo 2022 Esxence ©ERMANO

The 12th edition of Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event “Through the mirror” neon halo at the entrance of the MiCo Milan Congress Center was not only the coolest spot to take pictures, but also a reminder of the values the Art of Perfumery System must promote to address a better future.

Elegance and Uniqueness at Esxence 2022 was everywhere as was the concept that Beauty is going to be more and more unconventional and inclusive. Discovery, or better research for new natural and synthetic raw materials saw an unprecedented speed-up in the past 3 years, specially driven by a new Consciousness of the customer for sustainability. Social distancing taught us to enjoy more Intimacy, and this hopefully will help us regain the Mystery of Fragrance as a pleasure to be covetously shared only with our inner circle. In a nutshell, less fog horns, more emotion.

Strolling four days through the best of 2022 Esxence, I discover many fragrances landing on the shelves next fall, and others recent releases I didn’t have the chance to smell yet that helped me identify all the trends mirroring the above-mentioned principles.

Photographer and perfumer Christele Jacquemin Esxence 2022

Photographer and perfumer Christele Jacquemin showing her creations at Esxence 2022 ©ERMANO

Escapism at Esxence 2022

Perfume has always been a flying carpet for us and we close our eyes and let imagination our free. Travel limitations in Covid19 times made it even more necessary, obviously boosting fragrant escapism. Among the most exquisite and avant-garde discoveries the photographer-perfumer Christele Jacquemin was remarkable. Pictures and emotions from her travels are skillfully rendered juxtaposing innovative raw materials (more than 90% natural) and impressive balance (no wonder her Impermanence was an Art & Olfaction Award 2020 finalist). Inspired by her “buen retiro” in Murcia, a place in Spain renowned for its Art Nouveau architecture, Echoes of Silence is an awesome woody-aromatic featuring a unique rosy artichoke concrete.

Hima-Jomo himalayan perfumes

 Hima-Jomo beautiful display ©ERMANO

Another exciting Asian-inspired finding is Hima-Jomo (which in Tibetan refers to the “Holy mother” Himalaya). Perfumer Delphine Thierry concocted for the French brand four mostly natural fragrances conveying the primal beauty of the less knows Tibetan villages. Strong raw materials like Timur pepper, jatamansi and incense from Himalaya cast you immediately through the traditions, spirituality and kindness of Tibetan communities. Winter in Manaslu remarkably combines mint with star anise and Himalayan cedarwood to let you inhale the freezing air from the top of the world. (see Karl’s review of Summer in Paro here, where there is a draw).

Nobile 1942 petali e spade

Nobile 1942 display in gold and pastel colors at Esxence 2022 featuring Petali e Spade ©ERMANO

Nobile 1942 takes us to a more fictional trip to China with the new addition to the Premium line Petali e Spade (petals and swords) by Antonio Alessandria. The climax of Zhang Yimou’s House of flying daggers epitomizing strength through fragility translates here in aldehydic glares of Chinese osmanthus over a caramelized mineral amber trail.

Olfactive Studio Dancing Lights

 Olfactive Studio founder Céline Verleure – The brand new Dancing Lights ©ERMANO

Olfactive Studio creative director Céline Verleure introduced me to Olfactive Studio Dancing Lights(reviewed by Emmanuelle) (Sidonie Lanceisseur), a shimmering cold spicy floral inspired by the mysterious aurora borealis captured by Norwegian photographer Frøydis Dalheim. The pairing of mint, caradamom and syringa over a coniferous base makes it unique.

NŌSE perfumer Timur Sodolov at Esxence 2022

 NŌSE perfumer Timur Sodolov and his assistant ©ERMANO

Esxence  2022 also marked the debut of cool brands like NŌSE, a line founded by Russian perfumer Timur Sodolov. The Russian landscape inspiration and a great research for unusual raw materials made it stand out, along with an environmental conscious recyclable pack. Their Les Amours du Nord СТЕПЬ #1 (Steppe #1) is a gorgeous honeyed tobacco contrasted by absinth and mossy woods.

Via dei Mille Kore Sacra

 Via dei Mille displaying the new introduction Kore Sacra ©ERMANO

Mediterranean destinations are a never-ending source of inspiration where citruses and especially neroli are the ultimate trigger to a blasé summer lifestyle. Bright examples are Perris Montecarlo Neroli Mediterraneo as part of the Italy Collection mixing fizzy ginger and Timur pepper with the best Calabrian neroli and Francesca Bianchi’s sophisticated Libertine Neroli leaving a neo-seventies animalic chypre trail. A thirst-quenching take on this Italian fragrant journey is Laboratorio Olfattivo Viaggio in Italia Collection Arancia Rossa (Jean-Claude Ellena) with orange flowers and tangy passion fruit making blood orange pulp  euphoric.  In the same line, the latest Via dei Mille Kore Sacra from the Kaos collection with its lively pomegranate and aromatic incense brings to life unexploited Sicilian villages and its customs rooted in the Greek legacy. The new Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat (Ilias Ermenidis) sweeps you from Sicily straight to Greece at dusk for a fizzy cocktail of citrus, kumquat, bergamot and tangerine over a woody patio.

UÈRMI Solaro Collection 2022

The new UÈRMI Solaro Collection ©ERMANO

To enjoy this mood at best, bring out your caftan, retro sunglasses, a gaudy Sardinian coral necklace, and start dancing barefoot. If your fancy a less flamboyant but equally glamorous style, you can put on your solaro suit and a panama hat while sipping your daiquiri.

The Solaro fabric and elegance is the inspiration behind the new UÈRMI Solaro Collection created by Pierre Gueros. L’Isola che non c’è (The island that doesn’t exist) is as effortlessly chic as the green/ivory suit where lemon and incense play warp and weft, blended by the peppery, salty accents of elemi hinting the sea breeze.

I also sensed an emerging micro-trend for tropical escapes, where solar white flowers blend with fruits, mineral hints and powdery, soft woods. It’s the case for example of Pierre Guillaume sensual Intime Extime, Maison Tahité Cacao in the sun (Lucien Ferrero) where just a pinch of cocoa powder is sprinkled on top of red fruits and glowing florals, or the playful sunny tuberose Isabey Avant et Après (Marie Schnirer).

 

Return to Nature

The evolution of fragrant escapism leads to digging a return to nature and to the true values it represents: more environmental awareness of course, but also living in a less intensive and hurrying way, enjoying the small things and enabling a deeper connection with ourselves, and other humans as well. We are entering in the golden age of natural perfumery as more and more brands embrace this olfactive art which is also supported by a search for new natural raw materials, innovative extractions, natural isolates and bio-derived sustainable essences.

Gwaenelle Chauvin and Thierry Bernard from Parfumeurs du Monde at esxence 2022

Gwenaelle Chauvin and Thierry Bernard from Parfumeurs du Monde – Vetiver and resins on display (waves to our EIC) ©ERMANO

Since 2016 Parfumeurs du Monde  has brilliantly kept up  the values of sustainable and fair natural perfumery, so I was really happy to meet them again and see the line has grown with a new packaging and creations like the graceful Nam Chaa (Nathalie Feisthauer) built around a gorgeous white floral tea accord.

Hiram Green’s latest Arcadia (fabulous review Lauryn) is brilliant and unfolds a complex agrestic floral harmony brightened by French lavender that let you understand how nowadays a natural perfume can be way more than a mix of aromatic oils. Same applies for Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics which I happily met in Milano. Her Lost in roses  (reviewed by Ida) is a radiant soliflore with crisp fruity hues holding impressive texture and performance. Another 100% natural brand worth smelling was Floratropia, a line inspired by natural elements cleverly rendered in beautiful chiaroscuro by perfumer Delphine Thierry using ethically sourced materials. Plentiful of hot and cold spices, flowers and vanilla like a colorful Indian market, Le feu totally lit my fire.

Voyages Imaginaires co-founder and co-perfumer Isabelle Doyen

Voyages Imaginaires co-founder and co-perfumer Isabelle Doyen ©ERMANO

The ÇaFleureBon team was lucky enough to spend a full morning with Voyages Imaginaires co-founder Isabelle Doyen. Enjoying an overview on the whole collection with the in-house perfumer and sharing impressions on the precious natural raw materials she used was priceless. Moreover M.me Doyen made me happy disclosing a secret I was wondering about since a year: it’s a verdant quality of buchu leaves she used to render the fig accord in L’Echappée Sauvage. A secret is revealed, but I promised to keep my lips sealed on what’s coming next. Trust me though, it’s simply gorgeous!

TOBBA founder and perfumer Jasper Li

 TOBBA founder and perfumer Jasper Li ©ERMANO

The green wave runs great in natural/synthetic perfumes like ERIS Parfum Green Spell (Antoine Lie) with its bourgeoning mix of crisp tomato, fig and violet leaves. While distancing we couldn’t hug humans, but we could hug trees and feel their wisdom and compassion. Cypress and conifers give back their peaceful resinous aura as can be sensed in the beautiful Force by debuting line TOBBA from Hong Kong. The founder, artist Jasper Li juxtaposes Chinese traditional smells with abstract touches in effortless essential harmony.

Oceans couldn’t be missed as part of this new green awareness, and olfactory speaking, a new marine wave lies ahead, but very different from the ‘90s loads of calone. From the adventurous seabed covered in minerals, mosses and algae, the cold sprays of marine creatures carrying ambergris are distilled in greatly evocative perfumes like the violet laden Masque Milano White Whale (Christian Alori) and the tuberose infused Cristian Cavagna Murice Imperiale (Arturetto Landi).

Giuseppe Imprezzabile of Meo Fusciuni

Giuseppe Imprezzabile of Meo Fusciuni ©ERMANO

It was so good to talk with Perfumer Giuseppe Imprezzabile, as known as Meo Fusciuni about those past years and how he kept his balance planting and nurturing some osmanthus trees that brought him the memory of a trip to Laos. “They taught me beauty through patience. Those past years weren’t wasted, and in the end I told myself I’m still plenty of time to enjoy love and life”. He distilled this lesson of balance in what’s to me his masterpiece, the breathtakingly beautiful Encore du temps radiating the fruity melody of tea-like blossoming osmanthus over a deep, serene, and mellow sandalwood bed.

And to top it off with flowers, I couldn’t help but surrender to the call of the wild blooms smelling Anatole Lebreton L’Eau Guillerette. Brightened up by lemon and impertinent lilac, lily of the valley here is pure light-heartedness. Last but not least, let me add the Isabey Gardenia candle (Patrice Revillard) with its intoxicating mushroom hints.

Anatole Lebreton L’Eau Guillerette

Anatole Lebreton and his L’Eau Guillerette ©ERMANO

Classics Reloaded

In daunting times, nothing offers certainties to hold onto like the classics. Of course we’re in the XXI century, and yet oozing an acquainted charm, nowadays classics are asked to be sustainable, more wearable and modernized with contemporary raw materials.

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris will be on the shelves next October ©ERMANO

Who better than Jacques Fath could fulfill our needs for a new staple in the Gentleman’s wardrobe? Fath’s Vetiver Gris perfectly fits this bill with its invigorating bitter orange and grassy galbanum opening smoothed by the chicest iris sprinkled nutty vetiver. Please check Emmanuelle Varron’s Best of Show to read the full story of how perfumer Jean-Christophe Herault met Fath’s creative director Rania Naim.

Speaking about iris, I was lucky enough to meet the guy behind the restoration of L’Iris de Fath, perfumer Patrice Revillard who gave me a preview of the more affordable and brighter eau de parfum version soon to be released next fall. Gosh, stay tuned for it is as gorgeous as the iconic parfum.

Fragments by Neela Vermeire Creations at esxence 2022

Fragments by Neela Vermeire Creations ©ERMANO

If you have class, you can’t help but putting it in whatever you do. Namely intended to be a more immediate line, Fragments by NVC  the perfumers were not named initially see Ida’s review) aims to capture the spirit of those past years through small fragments. Classical themes (oud, aldehydic florals and tobacco) are rendered here by thousand layers in line with the brand’s DNA resulting in a ton sur ton seeming simplicity. Tobacco lovers will swoon over Fragments of visual purple – Purpureum (Cristiano Canali) with the opulence of peppery gourmand tobacco.

Frassai Victoria review

Frassai personal favorites, including the new introduction Victoria ©ERMANO

Frassaï was a great discovery in many ways, starting from the founder Natalia Outeda. We talked about raw materials as well about how her granddad came to Argentina from Italy.  Her latest introduction Victoria (Irina Burlakova) has everything to die for, and though using high-tech natural extractions like a stunning pink litchee nat-neo–Jungle Essence to build a dazzling fruity overture, the big tuberose bouquet oozes the glamour of Fracas and perfumes from the ‘40s. It perfectly renders so the classic femininity and strength of Argentinian writer Victoria Ocampo.

ONSKAD founder Virginie Dhoye with perfumer Léa Hiram

 ONSKAD founder Virginie Dhoye with perfumer Léa Hiram ©ERMANO

The erotic glamor of the golden ages of perfumery is the inspiration behind ONSKAD Parfums. As the founder Virginie Dhoye says, the goal of a perfume is to flirt with yourself first of all. Classic yet sharp like a Bauhaus piece of furniture, 30 (Léa Hiram) is a thrilling leathery tobacco pour elle Marlene Dietrich could easily wear.

NishaneTime Capsule Collection

Nishane new Time Capsule Collection ©ERMANO

More recently the feeling of classics reloaded seems to apply as well to perfumers, as some theoretically retired got back in the lab and now are composing beautiful  new creations. The latest one to be back on track is Master Perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac who added to the Nishane Time Capsule Collection the cardamom laden mystical oud Kredo.

MiCo Milano Convention Center was so vast I’m sure I missed some noteworthy perfume house, so please check out reports from my fellow Çafleurebon colleagues, Emmanuelle Varron and Karl Topham. And my first report

All pics are mine

Ermano Picco – Editor

Christele Jacquemin Discovery Set © Christele

Christele Jacquemin perfumes

Christele Jacquemin Discovery Set © Christele

Thanks to the generosity of brands that Ermano met at Esxence 2022 The Art of Perfumery Event, we have a draw with a travel spray of Nobile 1942 Petali e Spade and a Christele Jacquemin Discovery Set for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what surprised you in Ermano’s Esxence 2022 The Art of Perfumery Event review and where you live. Draw closes 7/10/22.

 There is so much work  that goes into these Esxence 2022 event reports that the more detailed and original comments will count twice-Michelyn

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @esxenceofficial @magnifiscent

Others to follow @christelejacquemin @hima.jomo @inspiration.libre @nobile1942 @olfactivestudio @noseperfumes.eu @perrismontecarlo @francesca_bianchi_perfumes @laboratorioolfattivo @aedes_de_venustas @uermi_perfumes @pierreguillaume_parfumeur @maisontahite @isabeyparisparfums @parfumeurs_du_monde @hiram_green @aprilaromatics @floratropiaparis @voyagesimaginairesparfums @erisparfums @tobba_official @masquemilano @_cristiancavagna_ @meofusciuni_parfums @anatole_lebreton @jacquesfathparfums @fragmentsbynvc @frassai @onskadfragrances @nishane.official

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27 comments

  • olgAPOISON says:

    Where to start? A beautiful review. As a chemist in my last year of master programe, I definitely see myself in perfume making and seeing so much talk about the materials and tehniques and everything was a Joy. I love the variety of perfumers and perfums shown, I love the New trends pointed out ( I wanna smell that sprinckled cacao on flowers!). Himalayan scent Sounds interesting even though the notes arent something id go for, but the beauty of the passion of perfumer and reviewer are something that makes me want to have it. Arcadia, with the beautiful review from last week is really something. And mediterrian scents as a mediterrian girls is all im Here for! Also Petali e Spade is definitely a stand out, and what a beautiful house it comes from. Dreaming of attending this someday! Im from Europe, Croatia.

  • Symbian Pandora says:

    Wow! This sounds like all had a magnificent time meeting, chatting and eating, let alone sniffing!!
    So many new scents! I would have nose fatigue akin to jet lag. It is good to see that new perfumers and veterans of the industry all embrace each other!
    Well done article, in depth and understandable!
    Bravo!!
    I will enter the draw, and thank you to all for a lovely essay!
    I am in the USA.

  • AleksCipri says:

    Wow Ermano, thank for introducing and mentioning so many interesting fragrances. I have added so many on my list of things to try! What pleasantly surprised me in this post is again the mention of a couple of houses that I either love or have caught my eye for the first time. For example I cannot wait to sample more of Christele Jacquemin’s fragrances, new Nishane lineup and two new releases from masque Milano. I’m very happy they left a good impression on so many of you…they must be very good. I am also intrigued a lot by Hima-Jomo fragrances, their back story and esthetic. I am pleasantly surprised that Ermano noticed the emergence of a “tropical escape” trend in perfumery. I have a soft spot for tropical fragrances, so I’m happy to hear this. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • I’m surprised how many perfume houses are there that I haven’t been aware of. Now I want to explore them all!

    A cardamom laden oud? Oh, yes!

    I live in Portugal

  • Thank you for this review- it was wonderful to experience this conference through your report. It seems like lots of people are getting creative with notes! You mentioned many notes I haven’t encountered in perfume before: artichoke, algae, kumquat. Also warms my heart to know the perfume industry is driving research into sustainability and ethical purchasing. I’ve been reading CaFleureBon for a couple years now and it is exciting that I can recognise more and more names of perfumers and brands. I remember the first few reports like this I read were baffling since I didn’t know any of the people or fragrances mentioned. Not anymore! Thanks for the report, writing from theEU.

  • nounours7 says:

    The thing that surprised me the most is that I actually missed so many interesting brands on the expo. Also, I did not know that about the origin of Frassaï and also still regret that I did not buy anything from this beautiful brand, I remember there was a perfume that smells like cookies!

    Thank you for the review, Ermano!

    I am from France, EU

  • has brilliantly kept up the values of sustainable and fair natural perfumery, so I was really happy to meet them again and see the line has grown with a new packaging and creations like the graceful Nam Chaa (Nathalie Feisthauer) built around a gorgeous white floral tea accord. A beautiful description by Ermano I agree fair perfume and sustainability is the key for the future and respecting our planet and raw materials. It must have been electric charged atmosphere and overwhelming just the sheer number of brands and perfumers. Thanks million from the United Kingdom

  • What really struck a chord with me was the sustainability aspect respecting the raw materials and the mystery and charm of fragrance really shone through for me. The amount of hard work and endeavour that goes into staging this event must have been monument mal. I believe Covid has really made us appreciate the simplicity of perfumery. I was really impressed by Parfumeurs du monde in particular as well all the other perfumers and brands. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • patrick_348 says:

    What surprised me? Let me list jusst three things–
    1. I think of Jacques Fath as a fusty old brand, but it sounds like they have had an infusion of creativity and life.
    2. The use of buchu leaves to create a fig accord in L’Echappée Sauvage–it sounds wonderful.
    3. And, producing the biggest smile on my face, the use of HOUSE OF FLYIMG DAGGERS as inspiration for Nobile 1942 Petali e Spade. It makes me want to smell it right away; I hope I win!
    I am in the US, in North Carolina.

  • I was not surprised by the details if the article but tantalized. My Must Try list just grew hugely! I live in the US.

  • There is so much in this review/article be Ermano. So many wonderful perfumers, their stories, what makes them tick, and the new directions perfumes are evolving in. I especially liked this quote by Mus Fuscuini -“They taught me beauty through patience. Those past years weren’t wasted, and in the end I told myself I’m still plenty of time to enjoy love and life”. Cardamom laden Oud Kredo is a new surprising oud combo for me that I’d like to check out. An exhibition like this is an olfactory candy store I can spend days, or months, or even years, at, exploring, learning, meeting great minds and hearts, and getting olfactorilly fat from consuming all the olfactory candy (not unhealthy for you, my doctors tell me 🙂 ). Loved the article, and may come back to it for more, as there is a lot of information here. Thanks again for the review and draw. From USA.

  • What surprised me in this review ?
    First, let me say that “green and environmentally conscious” perfumery seems to be everywhere, so I wasn’t surprised to see it highlighted here. And to be honest, the fact that a perfume house uses mostly natural or eco-sourced ingredients is wonderful, but this fact alone rarely makes me curious to try it. While I understand green perfumery is a trend, what I like to read about is more about scent trends. So I was delighted that in this review, despite the focus on the “obvious” green perfumery (from which I’m sure you can’t escape at an event like Esxence), there was still some surprising trends mentioned:
    – the Tropical Escapes trend. I didn’t expect this because usually, in the niche perfume world, “tropical” is a bit like what “gourmand/sweet” used to be: snobbed as if it was “too easy”, “too mainstream”. And myself, I’m not attracted to these scents as I have the (probably wrong) pre-conceived idea that they will smell like sunscreen (however I’m still on the hunt for the perfect frangipani scent, with frangipani as the start, not ylang-ylang). But this tropical escape trend described by Ermano is intriguing, because it sounds like the exoticness is a more introspective one, with minerals and soft woods… Tropical as if you’re lost in a lush forest or next to a desert ocean, with rich scents that bring you more inwards, now that’s exciting !
    And to read that one of the new trends is a come back to the classics, this is a surprise and rather a good one ! I’ve always overlooked Jacques Fath perfumes, for the ugly reason that the (too… classic ?) bottles have nothing to catch my eye, but now that Ermano mentioned they have a vetiver one, I’ll definitely put my hand on a sample one of these days.
    I had no idea that Jean-Louis Sieuzac had created a perfume for Nishane. Just because of Dune and Opium from the same magician, I have no choice but to add Kredo on my samples wishlist (especially because of the word “cardamom”).
    Lastly, please forgive my ignorance but I learned non-perfume related things by reading this review: I had to google what a (gaudy) sardinian coral necklace and a solaru suit are. Now I can finally understand references to rich italian riviera microcosm, and for this, I say thank you !
    I’m frantically writing these words at almost 1.30am somewhere in France (yes I read CaFleureBon at odd hours).

  • What a wonderful opportunity to sniff so many new fragrances and meet with the creative minds and noses behind these scents. I’m sure it’s an overwhelming experience and there’s a need to experience as much as possible. The creativity on display is astounding. It’s always interesting to see what you not perfumers are doing with some non-traditional materials. I’m most gratified to see the focus on sustainability and green fragrances. It’s certainly a necessary move and I look forward to seeing what different houses have come up with. I’m in MD, USA.

  • Ermano!!! ❤️❤️❤️ What a fantastic and detailed review!!! One can see the passion and love you have for the art of fragrance in your writing! I agree, Beauty has always been unconventional and inclusive, but it’s good that some who have been blind to this are catching on! Sustainability is such an important anchor for any industry these days. Many (especially the younger generations) are looking for this when they decide to build relationships with brands. Travel through scent is still (luckily) here with us! I’m very glad to see more Asian destinations (and creators) represented! Hopefully, we will see many more regions represented at all levels of the fragrance industry in the years to come. News to me: an Iris de Fath EdP!!! ❤️ My tiny little 8 ml sample will soon be empty! I can’t wait for this release! Also, Neela Vermeire’s Fragments are calling out to be experienced! I really must try Anatole Lebreton’s L’Eau Guillerette! TOBBA already has a link to our hearts in this house (my husband’s grandmother still lives in Hong Kong). We are so thrilled to learn about new houses and learn more about exciting perfumes! Thank you for this wonderful article and chance to win a travel spray of Nobile 1942 Petali e Spade and a Christele Jacquemin Discovery Set! ❤️ USA

  • Southirina says:

    I absolutely agree that “perfume has always been a flying carpet for us and we close our eyes and let imagination our free.” The trip has begun in Milan and first stop was in Murcia, Spain, then Tibetan villages, then China, then northern lights in the fjords, Russia, Mediterranean shores and last stop is on The island that doesn’t exist 🙂
    Thank you, Ermano Picco for the insights, for the info, for the thrill and of course, for the trip.
    Hugs from Romania

  • RiccardoC says:

    Great review, what got me interested the most was the return to nature…a trend I have seen myself at excence.
    Riccardo Italy

  • Such a multifaceted cocktail of impressions! I was particularly surprised by the fact that research for new perfume ingredients has been speeding- up in the last three years. Secondly; I was surprised by the country of origin of some of the mentioned perfume houses – some traveled really a long way to the event in Italy. This fact made me even more determined to attend the event in 2023 since I live just 300 miles from Milan.
    I was particularly drawn to Escapism in Esxence 2022 and Classics Reloaded sections of the article.

    Thanks to Ermano for sharing his thoughts and to both houses for the wonderful giveaway.

    Greetings from Slovenia (EU).

  • I love seeing the classics ,reloaded, I think looking back can actually be very refreshing. And what art form doesn’t pull from the past? In maryland.

  • Claumarchini says:

    What can I say? Another wonderful review of the great show that Esxence must have been! I am so sorry I was able to pop in for an hour the first day and spotted Ermano taking to Riccardo from Masque… And didn’t have the courage to say hi because I didn’t want to disturb! And then I missed all the other days but it’s so nice to read all these reviews, I have so many new scents in wishlist now, it’s not even funny! It’s true that more than ever perfumes help us in escaping from this gloomy and worrying reality, and that a return to nature is something we have started to think about more and more… I especially appreciate the fact that sustainability holds a more and more important place in perfumery : we only have one earth and we must do something before we destroy it for good! Thanks again for the wonderful article and the amazing giveaway: Petali e Fiamme intrigues me immensely and Christele Jacquemin’s work is wonderful! Greetings FROM Italy

  • aurora_ru says:

    I am intrigued by the new creation of Antonio Alessandria for Nobile, would love to sniff new releases from Anatole Lebreton, Christele Jacquemin, Nishane and April Aromatics. Lovely to see all those happy smiling faces in photos. Thank you for this report.
    I am ftom the EU.

  • So many good things in one place. I’m interested more of the natural perfumery. But I would try all of them, I would never get tired trying all of those amazing fragrances. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I’ve only heard of about half of the fragrance houses which Ermano mentioned in this review. I think that the display of resins and vetiver by Parfumeurs du Monde is interesting. I’d like to sample all of the fragrances which are mentioned in this review, e.g. the new series from Nishane. I’ve been very interested in trying fragrances from Christele Jacquemin, so I’m very interested in winning the discovery set. I live in the U.S.A.

  • I appreciate the extra work that goes into Excense reports. I’m also editor/journalist and I know well what it takes to make a good review, and then add appropriate photos and finally to make a synthesis of it all…
    The division into three groups- exotics, green inspirations and revisited classics is very smart. Each groups includes some brands I at least heard of if not tried and some that are really new. All in all, an articke I will be coming back to in the future as there’s so much to unpack!
    I’m in eu

  • foreverscents says:

    I am always surprised about the variety of fragrances, houses, and perfumers at this event. It must have been joyful to discover new fragrances from both new houses and old houses. I love that inclusion and unconventionality are highlighted in this event. I definitely want to try the Hima-Jomo line,
    I live in the USA.

  • It must be a lot of work to synthesize all one experiences at such an event into anything resembling a cohesive, unified story for the blog. I’m dazzled at these journalistic feats and at the astounding raw realities they imply. Being able to try so many cutting-edge scents practically at once sounds like a dream.
    One thing that surprised me: many of the scents mentioned are ones that have already been reviewed on ÇaFleureBon. How ahead of the curve you all are, and how lucky I feel as a reader to have found such an insider outlet for the fragrance world.
    A side note: I had to look up “Solaro suit”
    (I always learn such unexpected things here…)
    Thank you for everything.
    (USA)

  • I’m glad you highlighted the theme of Escapism in Esxence 2022, because it’s exactly the element of fragrance that got me into the hobby, especially during the last few years of social distancing. It’s still my most common approach to selecting a fragrance in the morning. Also, I’m happy to hear sustainability was a primary focus at this year’s event. In your profile of Christele Jacquemin’s work, you described a “unique rosy artichoke concrete”—evocative, but also totally curious. I’d also love to try Winter in Manaslu as a pairing with one of my favorite aftershaves that’s themed around the chilly void of outer space. I’m also intrigued by a pattern of fragrances providing tropical escapes. We’re in the right season for it. Thank you for the terrific and detailed review!

    I’m in the midwest, USA.