Vintage Perfume Review: Caron Tabac Blond (1919) by Ernest Daltroff “A Testament to Androgyny” + Claude Cahun Draw

caron tabac blond

Tabac Blond Vintage Ad

Undoubtedly, if there ever was a classic perfume that was identified with early gender bending, it would be Caron's Tabac Blond.  Created in 1919 by Ernest Daltroff, Tabac Blond has been a testament to androgyny, a beautiful yet mysterious fragrance that doesn't ascribe to normal gender classifications.

marlene dietrich tabac blond

Marlene Dietrich in Paris, 1933

The most famous aficionado of this masterpiece is the legendary Marlene Dietrich, who throughout her life pushed aside normal sexual conventions to break the model of what an early 20th Century woman was meant to be. But before Marlene Dietrich, there was another woman who many have not heard of, who created her art and lived her life outside the confines of the social norm, and in the process, broke down barriers for the modern day gender benders.

ClaudeCahun1

Claude Cahun, Self-Portrait, Silver gelatin print on paper, 1929

Surrealist Artist Claude Cahun, née Lucy Renée Mathilde Schwob (1894-1954) is best known for her staged self-portraiture, photomontages created between 1920 and 1940.  Beginning around 1913, Cahun questioned societal stereotypes of self and sexuality.  Cahun's portraits are fascinating, distributing and incredibly forward for the time; many consist of her posing in costumes, elaborate makeup and stripped of gender, neither man nor woman.

claude cahun née Lucy Renée Mathilde Schwob

Claude Cahun is an enigma. She understood herself as an ever changing collection of identities, flowing from one to the next, rather than a single or linear identity. She rejected all conventions of her culture and time, especially those regarding sexuality, while battling social norms and living an eccentric lifestyle.

photographer, writer, actor and resistance fighter Lucy Schwob aka Claude Cahun.

Photographer, writer, actor and resistance fighter Lucy Schwob aka Claude Cahun

But Claude Cahun was more than just an unconventional artist.  As testimony to her spirit, in 1937 she joined the French Resistance along with her life partner (and stepsister), Suzann Malherbe.  In 1944 they were both arrested and sentenced to death for their overt condemnation of the German government.   Fortunately, the sentence was never carried out.

 

Claude Cahun Autoportrait 1929. Gelatin silver print 24 x 19 cm. Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nantes.

 Claude Cahun Autoportrait 1929. Gelatin silver print 24 x 19 cm. Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nantes. (C) RMN/Gérard Blot

So why is Claude Cahun so unknown as a artist?  It could be that her art lays in its non-genre. Cahun’s creations are all at once surrealist, self portrait, photo-collage, political and non-traditional.  Thus, it's hard to pin her down to a singular label.  Her lasting legacy however,  is that her work is fascinating to this day.

claude-cahun surrealist

Caron Tabac Blond can best be described as a fragrance stripped of sexuality.  It opens with a deep and warmed floral  that upon first spritz goes on like a full bodied malty stein of beer that feels like it's overflowing the confines of the glass.  At the same time there's a smoky finish that roughens the floral aspects of the perfume.  It brings up visions of dark, and sultry hidden speakeasy where all walks of life come together to color the night.  The delicious and deep notes are added by a touch of leather bringing a powerful realness into the mix. 

Claude CahunSelf portrait 1947 mask

Claude Cahoun, Self Portrait 1947

As Tabac Blond settles in, a dustiness appears, like pool room chalk on a hardwood floor.  In the perfume's overall development,  the feminine aspects of the fragrance meld with the masculine notes which seemingly and continually interchange as time goes on.  Tabac Blond is utterly beautiful and very grounded in its existence.  Like Cahun's work, it defies gender marketing and  labels.  The wearer, by nature of their being, defines the fragrance, and the fragrance doesn't define the wearer.

Tabac Blond Notes:  leather, carnation, lime blossom, iris, vetiver, ylang-ylang, cedar, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, musk.

— Steven Lindquist, Contributor and Editor of The Scented Hound

Art Direction- Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

urn fragrance haute parfumerie Caron tabac blond

Photo: Caron Paris

In celebration of all those daring to be gender benders like Claude Cahun, Diane Haska the Caron Ambassador at  the Caron  New York  Boutique located at  715 Lexington Ave (entrance on 58 st) on the 3rd floor, is  graciously offering one CaFleureBon USA reader a 7.5 ml handpoured flacon of Tabac Blond (One of the Eight Caron Urn fragrances "Haute Parfums"). Please enter a comment about my review of Caron Tabac Blond, gender and fragrance or your thoughts on Claude Cahun. Draw closes  9/28/2014

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

87 ÷ = 87

35 comments

  • Steve A says:

    Wouldn’t have known about Claude Cahun without reading this article. I would love to have this perfume because of it’s connection to Dietrich. USA

  • Eleebelle says:

    I’ve heard a good deal of love expressed for Tabac Blond, but you make it seem lively and vibrant in a way I’d never considered before! I’m so fascinated by the story you tell about Claude Cahun and can’t stop looking at those stunning photos. I can’t even imagine how the art must have been received at the time and I love the fact it even existed in the first place. Not fitting into a category (gender, art) can be difficult even now. I’ll certainly be reading up tonight and hopefully always remember that being yourself is art, regardless of conventionality. Thanks for sharing this story!. (U.S.)

  • julesinrose says:

    Thank you for this fascinating article. I had never heard of Claude Cahun. I attended art school in New York City, so I’m fascinated that she is unknown to me (and to my husband, whom I showed these photos). He said, “Cindy Sherman must have known about her.” I agree with Eleebelle that not fitting into a category is still difficult. Kudos to Claude Cahun for being so ahead of her time! I plan on reading more about her. Thanks again.In the US.

  • Maya says:

    Claude Cahun and Marlene Dietrich were both free spirits who lived their lives on their terms, not society’s terms. Wonderful! I have heard a lot about Tabac Blond and would love to try it.

  • Tami H. says:

    What an interesting review. I never thought of Tabac Blond in this way before, stripped of sexuality.
    It is one of my top 5 favorites and a major compliment getter.
    I live in the U.S.. Thanks for the draw!!

  • Liz K says:

    I hadn’t heard of Claude Cahun and neither had my art history degree boasting mother. What a pioneer and really fascinating. Tabac Blond is beautiful and although I have never worn it myself, I have admired it on others. I am in the US and would love to rectify that. Thank you for the draw.

  • Nemo says:

    Thank you for putting Claude Cahun on my radar. I am intrigued! I have not tried Tabac Blond, but I would love to try it. I am in the US, thank you.

  • Jennifer witt says:

    I loved your evocative review of Tabac Blond – speakeasies and beer are not common associations with fragrance for me but I am now officially intrigued! I would love to win. USA. Thanks

  • Sandi L says:

    Steve, this was a fabulous review!! I loved the way you associated Claude Cahun with Tabac Blond (my first love of perfume). I also was unaware of Claude Cahun’s work and so appreciate the masterful written post. I certainly will be doing some reading up and discovering more works. The idea of being stripped of ones sexuality is certainly deep, unexpected and nonconforming term or association which I found fascinating Thank You for educating us on Claude Cahun’s work today. Very much appreciated. The photo’s were simply amazing. I can only imagine the response received at the time.

  • rivercitylizzy says:

    Thank you for introducing me to Claude Cahun; what an extraordinary life! I was especially struck by the concept of being a “collection of identities…flowing from one to the next…” Somehow, this seems a more accurate description of how we all “perform identity” on a daily basis–even if our repertoire is not so varied as Cahun’s.

    I often find myself falling for a fragrance described as “masculine” or “unisex,” though I am a sucker for a vampy feminine or a hothouse BWF.

    I’m in the US and very thankful for the generous draw!

  • Laurels says:

    I’d never heard of Claude Cahun–what a fascinating artist and person! Her work is reminiscent of Cindy Sherman’s, only 60 years earlier. I used to, without giving it much thought, consider perfumes to be quite strongly gendered. Articles like this help one see that even a hundred years ago, that notion was mostly marketing. Thank you! I’m in the US.

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    This was an extremely interesting. I had not heard of Claude Cahun before and this introduced me to her wonderful spirit. Thank you. The self portraits are captivating. Tabac Blond also sounds mysterious and I like that you say the wearer defines the fragrance. That is appealing. I’m in US and would love this. Thanks for draw.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I have to admit I had never heard of Claude Cahun before..one could say just as Cahun tried to challenge gender labels, metrosexual men are arguably doing the same today but of course the world we live in today is far more tolerant and civilized than the times Cahun live in…Tabac Blond is truly one of the most beautiful and original interpretations of cigarette ash note which is suddenly in vogue again..Michelyn, you are so right that no one has represented Tabac Blond in pictures as well as Marlene Dietrich.. thanks a lot Diana for the generous gift for this draw. I reside in the US

  • Patty P. says:

    The photos here are great. 🙂
    I just smeled Tabac Blond for the first time ever last week. I would be great to have 7.5ml more hand poured. I gravitate to what are marketed as unisex fragrances often. isa ty

  • Connie says:

    I’d never heard of Claude Cahun before, but I have of course heard about Tabac Blond. Would love to try such a famous scent. I’m in the US.

  • Mezzogiorno says:

    Ooh, I looove Tabac Blond! One of the first perfumes I tried as I started exploring the world of perfume, still a favorite. Thanks for the draw and this fascinating review!

  • einsof says:

    like so many, you have introduced me to a delightful new artist (and character)! so thrilling to know that in seemingly every time period there was someone, somewhere who could not be contained by the definitions of the day.

    i can see much more claude study in the my future.

    cheers!

  • Gentiana says:

    Tabac Blond EDP striked me with its unusual take-no-prisoners “Garconne” vibe… It was love at first sniff.
    I die to smell – and more of that, to have ! – the extrait…. Yes, it is a fragrance that I could imagine Marlene Dietrich or Claude Cahun would wear.
    Fascinating this woman, Claude Cahun! I am happy to learn about her in your article.
    Really original, non-conformist and stunningly creative and daring!
    Please count me in the draw for the Tabac Blond bottle.
    Thankful forever!!!

  • Ellen says:

    Thank you so much for your informative and beautifully written review. You peeked my interest in this fragrance for more reasons than merely smell. Thank you Diane Haska for your generosity. I hope I’m the lucky winner.

  • Faisal hayat says:

    What an astounding and informative article particularly for perfumes tas interested in the history of perfumes as well as perfumes.

  • Cyndi says:

    What a fascinating review of history and this perfume! I have always loved Tabac Blond, but now I love it much more as it has a much deeper meaning. Thank you!

  • Corrine says:

    What an amazing post , so original and well written
    I never heard of Claude Cahun a true artist she seems so contemporary.
    Please enter me in this draw for Caron Tabac Blond

  • Cynthia Mc says:

    This was an extremely riveting review. Not only am I fascinated by Tabac Blonde and the inspiration behind it, I was quite interested to discover Claude Cahun through your well-informed review. It’s really a treat to learn about such a compelling personality. I was particularly impressed that she was not only outspoken about social conventions but was a member of the French Resistance as well. Both an intriguing fragrance and an intriguing person. Thank you for the education and for the draw.

  • HeatherP says:

    This review has convinced me to give Tabac Blond a real chance. Thank you for putting it in such interesting historical context. Please enter me into the draw; I’m in the US. Thank you!

  • SallyM says:

    This is a great post. The words “Tabac Blond” caught my eye immediately as it is one of my Top 3 perfumes of all time and when I saw Claude’s name included in the article I was well and truly hooked. I wrote a paper on her for a Women’s Studies class some years ago – she was a woman with a truly revolutionary way of thinking whose work blew apart gender roles and boundaries. Incredibly brave too – along with her partner, she would dress up and infiltrate German military functions and leave anti-German fliers behind. Thank you for the opportunity to be included in this very generous draw! I am in the US.

  • Holly F. says:

    “Like Cahun’s work, it defies gender marketing and labels. The wearer, by nature of their being, defines the fragrance, and the fragrance doesn’t define the wearer.” Bravo. This is exactly my take on gender and fragrance. It is a fluid art. Thanks so much for the beautiful review and draw. I’m in the U.S.

  • Tiffanie says:

    Claude’s photos puts me in mind of Virgina Woolf’s Orlando, another work of art in which the boundaries of time and social convention seem beside the point. I feel the same way about fragrance. If it smells good, then I wear it without worrying about the gender of the intended audience. Fragrance is for all of us who breathe. A fragrance like Tabac Blond, “stripped of sexuality,” even more so, is for everyone who enjoys it. Thank you for the thoughtful review. I live on the west coast of the US, and oh, how I wish I were back on the east coast so I could visit the Caron New York Boutique.

  • shannon says:

    This was a very interesting and well written article and I enjoyed it very much. I love Tabac Blond … a perfume friend had sent me a sample, knowing my love of leather scents. I’ve been longing for more than just my now long-gone sample.

    Thank you for introducing me to Claude Cahun. I had not heard of her. Not only was she talented and a free-thinker, she was a hero … something we all should strive for.

    Thank you for the draw, I’m in the US

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Great article, learned a lot from it. Gender in perfumes should not exist. I’m a guy and one of my favorites is Carnal Flower and Boutonniere no7. If i like it i wear it. That’s it.
    My favorite part of the review is this description:
    It brings up visions of dark, and sultry hidden speakeasy where all walks of life come together to color the night.
    I live in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • Anna says:

    Thank you for this introduction (to me) of Claude Cahun and her work. I have a small decant of Tabac Blond and I’ve always found that it just smolders with sexuality. You’re right, it doesn’t fit into any neat category of male or female, just like Cahun’s work that is showcased in this article. There is something barbaric, in the best possible way, about them both. The Caron fragrances are very near and dear to me and I’m glad that this house still exists and provides true quality in the general mishmash of mainstream forgettable fragrances.
    Please enter me into the draw; I’m in the US. Thank you!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    Your review of Caron Tabac Blond, gender and Claude Cahun was fascinating. I enjoying discovering a new character and their role in history. it always make me want to learn more. As usual, your visuals are as powerful as your words. I’d like to be daring and try Tubac Blond.

  • Ginny M says:

    “Like poolroom chalk on a hardwood floor.” Sheer poetry! I’ve heard of Claude Cahun, but thank you for the reminder. I’ve never been lucky enough to smell Tabac Blond, but it’s something that needs to be rectified, considering my love of leather. I live in the U.S., and thanks for the draw and wonderful article! (The Caron fragrance that I wear regularly is Parfum Sacre in extrait form!)