Vintage/ Modern Caron Poivre (Michel Morsetti) Review + I Love Carnation Perfumes Draw

Marilyn Monroe with Carnation

I admit I am a complete and total fan of carnation perfumes and both the Modern and Vintage (1954) versions of Caron Poivre are among my favorites. Carnation is one of those absolutely marvelous aromas that puts my nose into overdrive mode. There is something just so fascinating to me about it. Quite frankly, I find it ridiculously sexy. While in the past couple decades carnation-centric scents seem to have waned, that by no means that it is forgotten. Some modern carnation perfumes  that feature the fiery flower that I admire include En Voyage Fiore di Bellagio, DSH Perfumes Oeillets Rouge and Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oiellet; it seems with this cold winter, I am craving carnation perfumes again.

Caron Urn Fragrances Poivre, Tabac Blond, Farnesiana, N’ aimez Que Moi and En Avion (photo Michelyn)

The House that best represents carnation perfumes throughout history to my mind is Caron.  Several of their vintage fragrances (composed by the founder and perfumer of Caron Ernest Daltroff1932’s En Avion, 1927’s Bellodgia, and 1919’sTabac Blond are absolutely full of the glorious flower and, in my opinion, are among the best ever made. Arguably, one can say its use was a big part in what made the House successful (over and above the massively successful Narcisse Noir from 1911).

Coup de Fouet Vintage ad 1958

In 1954, perfumer Michel Morsetti revisited carnation perfumes (that I’ve heard tell were meant to really spice things up for the modern 50s woman): Coup de Fouet (Crack of the Whip) and its extrait counterpart Poivre. Now, with a name like Coup de Fouet, one is definitely going to take notice. How daring it was! Caron went as far to call Coup de Fouet the scent of Aphrodite.  Ohhhhh!  Aphrodite with a whip…I like where this is going!

Aaron’s flacon of Vintage Caron Poivre

Formula wise, in either concentration (the notes are basically the same) they are each fiery beasts of hot spices, but Caron Poivre is the clearly the master of the beast. In ways, I think the names should have been reversed! Poivre opens with a sharp dose of pepper that immediately brings tears to one’s eyes (metaphorically). It’s very, very prominent within the first few minutes and most certainly adds a fiery effect to the atmosphere once introduced to one’s personal space. 

Illustration Where There’s Smoke There’s Fire Russell Patterson

There is no doubt that Caron Poivre makes its presence known and then firmly announces that “I’m the Boss”. As one’s nose flares from the assault of pepper’s awesome power, clove swoops in to add its own sense of warmth. The effect here really hits me in the back of the nasal passages and into my throat. It’s not unlike the effect of smoking a clove cigarette. Mind you, I don’t get smoke from this, rather the illusion of smoking.  Also, I really like how if you go in real close to your wrist and smell really deeply, you get a numbing effect. Dare I say this would be great to kiss off?  Yup, I just did. 

Lauren Bacall lighting a cigarette in the movie To Have and Have Not 1944

After about 20 minutes the cloves segue into a glorious carnation replete with a touch of powder. The effect here is like wallowing in huge field of dianthus with your nose blissfully smelling each bloom over and over again to a point that it’s nearly narcotic.  The fragrance sticks close to the skin behaving similarly as the scent of the flowers in nature.  As compared to other carnation perfumes, Caron Poivre stays closer to the skin than most. This by no means is an issue. In fact, it’s a plus! 

Lauren Bacall in Blood Alley-Doesn’t the poster look like the Caron Poivre ad below?

After a fairly loud invitation, this gives it more of that “come hither” type of vibe which is so perfectly Caron.  If I had to imagine the type of woman I envision wearing this back in the day, it would be Lauren Bacall.

After a hour or two the clove and carnation are still going strong.  Clove at times seems to come back and dominate over the carnation, but the concert they are performing is quite enchanting.  Hints of balsamic sweetness appear in a way very similar to myrrh incense (opopanax) before being burnt (think incense resin nuggets in a corked jar). Over and above this, I am getting hints of similarity to the floral aspects of Bellodgia now and again – rose makes its way forward, but here it’s coupled with ylang ylang and a much drier sandalwood/vetiver combo which makes for a completely different (yet familiar) effect from Bellodgia. I detect what my brain is telling me is vanilla here as well, but, at the same time, I think this is a trick. In the distant end there is a cinnamon-ish backdrop and in the far, far end jasmine peaks out with just tad bit of musk. It’s not in the least bit of an indolic jasmine or hugely animalic musk either. The two really act to simply quiet the situation after a long a very satisfying romp through the fire.

Newlywed actors Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall attending wedding reception at home of novelist Louis Bromfield, Mansfield, OH

Caron Poivre (modern version) longevity was on average around 5-6 hours before its last remnants remained on my skin. Sillage and projection were a bit on the short side after the initial bombastic nuclear pepper and carnation cloud dissipated.  In all, it strikes me as a very personal fragrance that would appeal to vintage perfume lovers and modernists at the same time. That said, there is one thing that is certain…you must love clove and carnation to appreciate Caron Poivre. If you adore these two key aromas, then you are going to love Caron Poivre. If you are not familiar with the notes, then Caron Poivre is one you should explore.

Top notes:red and black pepper, clove; Heart notes:Carnation, ylang ylang ,jasmine; Base notes: Opoponax (sweet myrrh), woods, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, musk

Disclaimer: Review based on a decant provided by Diane Haska at Caron (Thank you, you are simply the best!)

You can order any current CARON fragrance including the coveted urn perfumes by calling Diane (212) 308-0270 | (877) 88-CARON |dhaska@alesgroup.com

Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Caron Poivre

Thanks to Caron Paris USA we have a 7.5ml of the hand-poured and individually bottled Pure Perfume Extrait of Caron Poivre (not vintage but from 2014) which is very rare and not sold anymore for a registered USA ONLY reader (if you are not sure if you are registered click here). To be eligible please leave a  nice comment with what you enjoyed about Aaron’s review of Caron Poivre, if you love carnation perfumes and if you have a favorite Caron Paris fragrance. Draw closes 1/19/2018. You can follow us @cafleurebon @maison303 on Instagram. Check out on @caron.paris on instagram as well.

 We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our blog feed …or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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29 comments

  • Quite a seductive review! The only one of these I have smelled is Bellodgia, so I’m curious about Poivre and the others that were mentioned.

  • Great review! I love carnations, the flowers and carnation in fragrances. Tabac Blonde or Fleurs de Rocaille are my Caron favorites. A couple of carnations that I love are DSH Oeillets Rouges and the old Red Moscow. Thank you for the phone number!

  • I love fiery, scents full of hot, sexy spices and carnation is the perfect flower to pair with them. Having it’s own spicy kick, Carnation can “crack the whip” like a ringmaster controlling a big beast. I love vintage scents and would adore assaulting my nose with such a deliciously sexy sounding scent. Thank you Aaron for fanning the flames of my desire with your evocative review! I’m in the US.

  • I love the real-life smell of carnations but rarely liked them in perfume until I sampled some of Patou’s Ma Collection. Then I fell in love with carnation in perfume. I have not tried many Caron fragrances. I like Farnesiana. I have a bottle of original Montaigne. It is a happy-making perfume. I would love to win Caron Poivre. It sounds incredible and any perfume that calls forth Lauren Bacall must be great. I love Bogart and Bacall both separately and together. Live in the US.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Absolutely swoon-worthy review. To date I have not had the opportunity to experience the house Caron. It is a dream of mine to save my money and go to NY for an appointment with Diane. I know I want Tabac Blonde, Narcisse Noir, and Nuit de Noel. I would love to win Poivre. US

  • I love pepper and cloves, but haven’t spent much time with carnation, so this would be lovely to try…always wanted to try Narcisse Noir and Nuit de Noel by Caron, but haven’t gotten around to ordering samples online.
    thank you again for all the draws!!

  • fazalcheema says:

    I did not expect Poivre to be such a personal fragrance that remains close to skin. I thought i must project a lot. But being a parfum, it kinda makes sense. Poivre really has Caron’s DNA with notes like carnation and cloves. Thanks so much for the generous draw. My favorite Caron is Tabac Blonde. I am in the US.

  • Mary Stephens Mitchell says:

    I love Aaron’s description of Poivre, and the importance of carnation to the great house of Caron. Also – the photos of Lauren Bacall! I own, love and wear several Caron perfumes, but it’s been many years since I’ve experienced Poivre. Thank you for this draw; I’m in the USA.

  • kentwrogers says:

    Wonderful review about a perfume I’ve always dreamed of. I particularly appreciate the comparison between vintage and modern. The Eugenol clove/carnation note is a favorite of mine, particularly as a blender note, so I’m excited to have the opportunity to try a perfume where it takes center stage. In general I love spicy perfumes like this (especially in the vintage style), and I’ve tried Bellodgia and En Avion but am most enchanted by Caron’s masculines, especially Le 3eme Homme.

  • Very much enjoyed the review – I’ve also frequently wondered, of those sophisticated women in the black and white movies, how lovely would they also have smelled? The carnation does sound perfectly like Bacall. I don’t know that I’ve ever even smelled a carnation perfume, nor have I had the chance to try any Caron Paris fragrances, but this one sounds just gorgeous. US here. Thanks for the draw!

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Love this review! Totally agree with the assessment of Poivre as the whipcracker (Coup de Fouet, while nice, reminds me of too many other soapier and more demure carnations). Poivre smells so arresting at first but the drydown is absolutely seductive. Thank you so much for this draw! I love Tabac Blond (honestly both vintage and current extrait), Poivre, and I find Narcisse Noir so compelling while also finding it so difficult to wear! I’m in the US and would love the chance to possibly win this.

  • I don’t have a favorite Caron Paris fragrance. I loved Aaron’s review. It got me so interested in this fragrance that I figure I’m going to have to sample it before I go out and buy it. Carnation fragrances are truly gorgeous. There is something so warm and spicy about them. Lauren Bacall does bring that to mind. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • I have a love/hate relationship with Carnation perfumes. I love spicy scents but not soapy ones. Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale is perfection. I loved Aaron’s charming review, nothing pretentious about his writing or his enthusiasm and the fabulous photos of Lauren Bacall. My favorite Caron is Fleurs de Rocaille.

  • Aaron what a wonderful article! I too am a carnation fan, having grown up with Roger & Gallet Blue Carnation soap, now sadly long discontinued. Poivre is so beautiful and I cherish my vintage bottle. Bravo! And feel better soon. DNEM, btw…… xoxo

  • Realy what a wonderful and seductive review, Aaron!!! Thanks!
    The only one of these I have smelled is Caron Vetyver, but was not inspired , but have read so many beautyful revies about Caron, so I’m curious about Poivre and the others that were mentioned.
    US

  • Oh, how I love carnations, cloves, and Caron. I love the firecracker beginning of Poivre and I, too, imagine Lauren Bacall. Interestingly enough, I think of Lauren Bacall when I wear a lot of vintage perfumes. She was just so sensual but, at the same time, so down to earth. She also was so self-assured, which is how I feel when I wear perfumes with a carnation note. I like the old Gucci No. 1.
    I live in the USA.

  • Very beautyful article full of colores, vivid comparitions. Thank you dear Aaron.
    I love carnation very much, but now can not remember any carnation dominant perfume.
    From Caron ,as I remember, I tested Caron Pour Un de Caron- beautyful!! and Yatagan-great,masculine, brutal perfume !!!
    USA

  • Carnation, j’adore!
    I love the flowers themselves, and carnation fragrances.

    The first I ever smelled was Bellodgia, which I have in lotion and in perfume (sadly it seems sour on me and I almost never wear it)…. Though I prefer Poivre and Parfum Sacre (which I should wear more these days, lingering on a scarf warming a winter evening is such a great way to experience that perfume).
    Many years ago I got a decant of Coup du Fouett which I enjoy but find a bit on the harsh/cool side. And going by how much I wear it, my most favorite Caron is Pour Une Homme. So easy and grounding.

    This review is awesome–I love the clove-y-ness of ” The effect here really hits me in the back of the nasal passages and into my throat.” I mean yeah that’s clove/eugenol for ya. And the ‘balsamic sweetness’ which I think must be shared with Parfum Sacre. I do indeed love clove and carnation (and pepper!) so this review deeply appeals to me.

    USA
    Please count me in–I covet this even more than those powder puffs!

  • Malka Gittel bas Reuven says:

    Carnation! Love it – and also Lauren Bacall, which made me adore this review. I feel classier just reading about Lauren Bacall.

    I have all manner of Caron, with weaknesses for Tabac Blond and Parfum Sacre, and less passion for the light florals – of which this certainly isn’t one! Nuit de Noel is a love, of course, and my exception to “light” is Aimez Moi, which makes me ridiculously happy. Spice works for me, so the clove and pepper here are wonderful to me.

  • A dizzying review for the narcotic Poivre, sending a tremendous thank you to Aaron. I especially enjoyed the mention of Lauren Bacall. Gorgeous. I do love carnation in fragrance, and my favorite scent from Caron is Bellodgia. I have just about used up a very small amount I have treasured over the past few years.

  • Caron fragrances and I get along splendidly. I’ve owned several (Nuit de Noel, Parfum Sacre, En Avion, Aimez-Moi, Eau de Reglisse, Farnesiana, Tabac Blond) and sampled many more, but somehow I’ve never tried Poivre. I love both carnation and clove, so I obviously need to remedy that situation. The fact that it stays close to the skin appeals to me. And gosh, I don’t know how I’ve missed seeing that Poivre dragon ad, but it’s fantastic! I’m in the US, and my favorite Caron is probably a toss-up between Nuit de Noel and Parfum Sacre. Thanks for the drawing.

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    I enjoy oriental fragrances, and the clove and pepper notes sound enticing. But carnation, now there’s a note I haven’t appreciated and am ready to explore. I own Pour un Homme de Caron, love how beautifully it is blended, and have huge respect for this famous house. That photo of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall is fabulous, and Caron Poivre also sounds fabulous.

  • Terrific review, Aaron! Lauren Bacall — one of my favorite of the classy dames of the Golden Age of Cinema: I think that may be the perfect choice for someone who would wear Caron Poivre. I happen to have come across (at yard sales) a couple of vintage bottles of Bellodgia (can’t recall the concentration at this moment), which is probably my favorite carnation scent, and I have Parfum Sacre in Extrait (probably my favorite Caron) plus samples of several other Caron classics, including Nuit de Noel. I’m surprised I haven’t come across Poivre, but would love to try it. I live in the U.S.

  • Carnation fragrances are so feminine and delicate! I’d love to win this!
    I live in the U.S.

  • annetteneuffer says:

    Not in the US, but still I would like to thank for this fabulous review. Nowadays it seems Carnations are totally out of date but I LOVE them, to me they they are THE classic seductive perfumes and so sexy. Great choice of pictures! I am dying of jealousy for the vintage Poivre bottle…

  • Jennifer Jamerson says:

    Awesome review, quite informative. Don’t think I own a carnation fragrance but I’d love to. Oh I love vintage pictures and the history behind it all. U.S., Houston, TX

  • Caron should g9 back to original perfumes and quit trying to change them. Rebrand them. Market them as sexy and unforgettable.

  • Any ideas on the carnation sold in a small container my grandma would buy at an ole time drugstore, it was not in a bottle, a childhood memory of how my grandma smelled so wonderful, this would be in the late 50s.