Three Olympic Orchids Perfumes You Should be Wearing: Sonnet XVII, Mardi Gras and Salamanca + Something New Under the Sun Draw

peek_a_boo_sunshine_painting_by_stevenrussellblackcafleurebon

Peek-A-Boo Sunshine Painting by Steve Russel Black

"What has been will be, what has been done is what will be done; and there is nothing new under the sun." (Ecclesiastes 1:9). While I can't argue with wise king Solomon's worldview I find I have to tweak it a bit when it comes to fragrance.  Perfumers have, for many years now, been creating scents that are, for wont of a better description, "extra terrestrial" – scents that can't be found anywhere on planet earth, except as aroma chemicals or as finished fragrances inside perfume bottles.

Fractal Flower 2by Geannunziataaustin

Fractal Flower 2 by Geannunziataaustin

Innovation in scent is blossoming everywhere, especially via the noses of a new generation of independent, artisan perfumers. While there has been a resurgence of classical styles and formulas, modified for contemporary tastes, there are also new and unexpected trends. I've been watching and sniffing for years and I've finally figured out what most perfumistas already know: More often than not, trends begin with the self expression, freedom and scent exploration of artisans, who operate with little or no restriction, expectations or preconceived notions. It is often the individual who takes the creative risks. Once proven, the new ideas are ripe for adoption, recycling, polishing and promotion by niche and designer alike, redefining the public perception of what is beautiful and fashionable.    

ellen-covey-photo-courtesy-of-art-and-olfaction

Dr. Ellen Covey  photo courtesy Art & Olfaction

Masterpieces are born from this interplay of ideas, raw materials and inspiration.  One of the most innovative perfumers in today's Indie scene is Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids. Whether inspired by places in the heart, nature, art, poetry, inner or outer space, Ellen has a knack for putting her finger (nose) on a beautiful scent and bringing it to life as perfume. Today I am reviewing three of Ellen's fragrances that have expanded my notions of beauty and opened my mind (and nose) to new fragrant possibilities and I believe many of our readers may not have experienced.

sonnet-xvii-olympic-orchids

Sonnet XVII – 2014

The perfume Sonnet XVII was conceived from an inspired conversation between Dr. Ellen Covey and CaFleureBon's Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen. Both the perfumer and the editor/artist love and appreciate the poetry of Pablo Neruda.  The poem Sonnet XVII reads:

"I do not love you as if you were salt-rose, or topaz,

or the arrow of carnations the fire shoots off.

I love you as certain dark things are to be loved,

in secret, between the shadow and the soul".

I love you as the plant that never blooms

but carries in itself the light of hidden flowers;

thanks to your love a certain solid fragrance,

risen from the earth, lives darkly in my body…" – Pablo Neruda, One Hundred Love Sonnets

forest-fashion-editorial

STYLIST FRANCE Diana Moldovan by Hong Jang Hyun. 

Sonnet XVII is one of the most primal fragrances in my collection. The initial breath speaks to me of the rich, dark scents of newly turned earth and hay, a bit of barnyard but still fresh with a piney, coolness of dried leaves, needles and flowers from the winter garden.  As the fragrance develops it ferments to a pungent, intoxicating sophisticated combination of warm champaca, lactonic osmanthus and resinous spikenard, infused with the mossy sweetness of ambergris.  This heady phase lasts for several hours eventually drying to a veneer of powdery vanilla, ambergris and musk.  Sonnet XVII is a complex, delicate and focused perfume with an intimate to moderate sillage that lasts for at least twelve hours on skin and forever on clothing. It is Dr.Covey’s personal fragrance, one she wears more than any other in her line.  Fragrance notes and accords include citron, cubeb, white champa, mastic spikenard (Nard), oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Bourbon vanilla, woods and musks, with a touch of natural ambergris.

MardiGras perfume olympic orchids

Mardi Gras – 2015

In 2011 Ellen Covey sent me a very unusual gift, two 15 ml prototypes of one of her best-selling fragrances.  The bottles were labeled Version #1 and Version #3.  For whatever reason these perfumes had not made the cut and had never been offered for sale.  I fell in love with Version #1, a skanky, humid, outrageous lady, replete with synthetic orange blossoms and honey, raunchy but with good manners, reminding me a little bit of the New Orleans French Quarter. As far as I knew no one else was wearing this prototype dazzler and I began to consider #1 my personal, one of a kind fragrance.

givenchy-nyfw-ss16-mask

Givenchy S/Summer 2015

In 2014 Olympic Orchids (with a little prompting) reconsidered the possibilities of Version #1. Ellen toned down the slutty first impression with natural orange blossom and neroli, smoothed and reinforced the cistus with benzoin and tweaked the animalic dry down. I suggested a name and the new fragrance debuted in early 2015 as Mardi Gras – the same outrageous lady but this time presenting herself as refined southern belle.  Now, behind the festive mask, there remain the same dark undercurrents that attracted me to #1, but in Mardi Gras the voodoo and hoodoo are partially disguised behind a polite, façade of natural, honeyed orange blossom and vanilla.  Mardi Gras is a powerful, seductive perfume with amazing longevity, the sillage of a "parfum de puta" but with the deceptive "innocence" of a sultry southern beauty. Fragrance notes and accords include orange blossom, neroli, cistus, benzoin, vanilla, civet and special musk blend.

salamanca

Salamanca – 2012

The perfume Salamanca was first created in 2012, inspired by Ellen's visit to the ancient Spanish university town of Salamanca, located between Madrid and the Portuguese border.  Salamanca is one of Ellen's amazing "scents of place".  Her olfactory memory is so extraordinary that she can retain the atmosphere and smells of places she has lived or visited and duplicate them for others to share as perfume.

joan-miro-salamanca

Joan Miro Salamaca

The scent to Salamanca opens with a sweet and smoky accord, a bit like fire fueled with high clay content paper.  There is a suggestion of oiled leather and the scent of dry earth, grass and anonymous wildflowers.  As the fragrance develops the mitti attar reproduces the effect of water evaporating from wet stones.  At about two hours the smoke all but disappears leaving leather, hay and wildflowers over a light sheen of vetiver. This effect stays in place for several more hours finishing with the scent of a grassy meadow in mid summer. The sillage is moderate through the life of the fragrance.  While Salamanca is a representative of something old and, technically, "nothing new under the sun", it nevertheless evokes a timeless moment, unique in my experience. Notes include French hay absolute, tonka, mitti (an attar made in India by distilling the scent of clay), vetiver, immortelle absolute, African helichrysum oil, labdanum absolute, opoponax, a leather accord created especially for use in this fragrance, and a touch of yellow mimosa absolute, which lends a subtle floral quality that perfectly complements the leather.   

I have purchased and/or been gifted Sonnet XVII, Mardi Gras and Salamanca.  My opinions are my own.

Gail Gross – Sr. Contributor

Michelyn Camen Art  Director

Thanks to the generosity of Ellen Covey at Olympic Orchids we have a draw for a coffret of travel size Sonnet XVII, Mardi Gras and Salamanca for one registered reader worldwide

or a choice of the coffret or one of the three fragrances in 15 ml perfume for one US reader (be sure to register or your comment will not count).

To be eligible for the draw please let us know where you live in your comment and tell us what appeals to you about one or more of these three fragrances and if you want the coffret (your only option should you live outside the USA) or  in the USA a particular fragrance you would like to win. There is only one winner. Draw closes December 23, 2016.

 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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46 comments

  • I’m drawn to Sonnet XVII and Salamanca, but for very different reasons. If I won, I would love to win Sonnet XVII as I especially love the particular notes of the fragrance. Thank you for the draw. I live in the USA.

  • The words of the sonnet are so beautiful, you have inspired me to look up more from Neruda.
    The notes of the perfume Sonnet XVII also sound interesting and I would choose this if I won.
    I am in Australia.

  • I adore osmanthus, especially when paired to slightly dirty notes. I love oudh osmanthus from mona di orio, and I would love to sample all f these, but especially sonnet xvii!
    I live in Romania (EU).

  • All three sound divine! From this review, It seems Dr. Ellen Covey has a unique nose! Her use of special accords for the perfumes is exciting. I would love to sample all three of these! So the coffret would be my choice. I I’ve in the USA.

  • I like the aspect of Mardi Gras being a somewhat ‘discarded’ fragrance and then resurrected! All three of these interest me so I would love the travel coffret of the trio. I am in the US. Thank you for the chance!

  • I have only tried a couple of fragrances from Olympic Orchids but I found them interesting. Mardi Gras sounds the most like it would appeal to me. I would choose the comfret if I won as I’d like to sample all of these.
    Thank you for the draw. USA

  • I am drawn to Salamanca because it was inspired by Ellen’s visit to actual town in Spain. It has both smoky and sweet effects and the combination of earthy and leathery notes must be interesting. My choice will be the coffret. I am in the US.

  • I know and love both Sonnet XVII and Salamanca but am embarrassed to admit that I haven’t gotten around to trying Mardi Gras yet. It’s really inexcusable since OO is one of my all-time favorite houses and I adore the way Dr. Covey does skank. In fact, I’m wearing my beloved Tropic of Capricorn right now.
    I’m in the US and would love to add Mardi Gras to my collection.

  • I have tried Salamanca and loved it so that’s what I find appealing…I already know I like it. I have yet to try the other two. My choice is the 15ml of Salamanca. 🙂 usa

  • I would love to try Sonnet XVII as it is Ellen Covey’s favourite and because I love primal, animalic notes. I live in Australia.

  • They all sound intriguing, but Sonnet XVII is the one that calls to me most. It sounds absolutely intoxicating! Osmanthus and ambergris are two of my favourite notes. So fitting for the poem that inspired it. I live in Canada, thank you.

  • acquiredtaste says:

    I live in Malaysia. I am especially interested in Sonnet XVII as the name itself conjures the image of a classy, rich and romantic fragrance.

  • Very nice review. These perfumes are sounds very lovely and interesting, all the three. I would very like to try them. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • All mentioned sound nice, but the one that I’d like to sniff the most is Salamanca, because I have a special connection with Spain, living there for one year. Thanks, for the draw, I live in Europe.

  • I’m in the US and would like to win the coffret as these all sound marvelous. I have a sample of Salamanca and it’s been on my mental wishlist for ages, to me it smells like an oyster shell drive on the Gulf Coast US after a quick rain shower on a hot afternoon. But I’m unfamiliar with the other two and the French Quarter is one of my favorite places. Thanks for the great reviews and generous opportunity!

  • I love the sultry humid sound of Mardi Gras and the earthiness of Salamanca – it sounds wonderfully evocative. I would love to try all three, and I live in the US.

  • Blackbird is one of my favorite recent releases, it’s one of Ellen’s creations. Reading this article’s description of Mardi Gras has me wanting to win the 15 ml of that one. US

  • All three scents sound fantastic! The most intriguing one seems to be Salamanca which “sweet and smoky accord, a bit like fire fueled with high clay content paper”. Sounds so unique! Thank you for the draw. I would like a coffret if I win.

    (EU)

  • These all sound so lovely, but Salamanca is the winner for me. The mitti attar component is absolutely fascinating and I’d love to try it. Wet clay is one of my favorite scents. In the US. 🙂

  • I would love to experience Sonnet XVII because as Gail mentions:
    ” Sonnet XVII is a complex, delicate and focused perfume with an intimate to moderate sillage that lasts for at least twelve hours on skin and forever on clothing…….
    It is Dr.Covey’s personal fragrance, one she wears more than any other in her line. Fragrance notes and accords include citron, cubeb, white champa, mastic spikenard (Nard), oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Bourbon vanilla, woods and musks, with a touch of natural ambergris.”
    I love it for the notes and Sillage on clothes and on skin.
    I would love to have the sampler set in case I am the very lucky winner of this draw.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.

  • Orange blossom is my favorite flower and New Orleans is one of my favorite cities, so a bottle of Mardi Gras is calling my name! I’m in the US. Thanks for the drawing and happy holidays.

  • I have tried both Sonnet XVII and Mardi Gras, and they are both wonderful. (The Neruda poem is wonderful, too.) Salamanca also sounds great, with its smoke and leather and grass and wildflowers, so I would have to choose the coffret. I’m in the US.

  • I love fragrances that are meant to evoke places, so I’d like to try Salamanca and Mardi Gras. But the earthy smell of Sonnet XVII appeals to me as well.
    If I were to win, I’d choose the coffret. I live in the USA.

  • Gail, you make these sound great! I have only tried Mardi Gras – which I enjoy very much. I’d love to try the other 2 as well, I need to acquaint myself with more of Ellen’s work. I love love love Blackbird too! Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • Coloraturajocie says:

    I love Ellen’s perfume! I’ve given several of her scents to others but never purchased for myself!

    I live in the US and would love Mardi Gras. For some reason the description reminds me of the film/book “interview with a Vampire” as i feel the scent sounds very mysterious and moody with New Orleans elegance at its root.

  • Interesting fragrances. Mainly Mardi Gras which I think would suit to me the best but and also Salamanca with unusual clay note. Fragrance created thanks to Ellen s olfactory memories and visit in Spanish Salamanca. I am interested in winning coffret. I am in EU.

  • All three are pretty amazing. If forced to choose then I guess it would be Mardi Gras. Sex in a bottle lol Salamanca whisks you away on a scented flying carpet to hot, dry and dusty climes. Impressive stuff

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    All sounds great but the most impressive is SALAMANCA. Never tried any of Olympics Orchids perfumes so far. If I win my choice is coffret. Thanks for the generosity & the opportunity.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • I am a huge fan of Ellen’s talent since I ‘ve tried her orchid fragrance line (still couldn’t decide which one I like best and which one to buy first, but I am sure she is a very great artist and everything she’s created is worth trying). I am very curious about Sonnet XVII and I’d be delighted to win this wonderful draw. Thanks for the opportunity. I live in the EU.

  • I love Pablo Neruda, he is one of my favorite poets, so naturally I am most interested in trying Sonnet XVII, but Mardi Gras and Salamanca also sound unique and very sensual. Thank you for the reviews. I woild choose a coffret. I live in Europe.

  • The coffret sound wonderful! Each of the three perfumes sounds tempting in its own way. I’d be so happy to have the chance to try them. I live in the EU, thanks!

  • My favorite of the three would probably be Salamanca. Hay note brings beautiful memories of many happy summers I have spent in the countryside as a child. Mardi Gras and Sonnet XVII sound romantic and erotic in the best old fashioned animalic way which I can rarely found in modern perfumes.
    The draw is wonderful and I sincerely hope I am going to be the lucky winner 🙂 I would love the three travel minis. I live in EU, thanks!

  • I read and heard so many enthusiastic opinions about Sonnet XVII! Love anything with champaca note and I have a feeling that this would be my 2017 fragrant discovery and a new favorite scent. Thank you for so generous and inspiring set of reviews! I live in Europe.

  • Patricia Berne says:

    I live in California and was introduced to Olympic Orchids two years ago, and am excited to try the coffret for the same reason that I love her orchid line -– the unexpected combinations that make her scents truly stand out! Thank you 🙂

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Salamanca is one of the cities on my “to visit” list. The notes of this fragrance are very promising. I like the way labdanum and opoponax smell on me, I feel so confident wearing these notes.

    My choice would be the coffret if I win. Thanks so much the draw and for your generosity Ellen. I am in the EU.

  • Ellen Covey created the richest and most complicated fragrance I have ever tried: Tropic of Capricorn. Discovering and learning to understand it was one of the most important olfactive experiences I have had, which means I can absolutely inderstand what Gail means by “fragrances that have expanded my notions of beauty and opened my mind (and nose) to new fragrant possibilities”. I discovered that my relationship with this scent is as complicated as any other relationship: there are days when we love each other and on other days we are indifferent to each other like complete strangers. I believe that it only happens with the most sophisticated scents.

    I believe any fragrance created by Ellen Covey can be as unique and moving and I would love to try a coffret. Mardi Gras sounds like it is the most unsettling and mysterious one of the three. I am so curious about it!

    Gail, thank you for sharing your impressions with us. I live in Europe.

  • Sonnet XVII appeals to me most because of the lovely words of the poem, but I’d love to test also Salamanca and Mardi Gras. Thanks for the draw and greetings from Norway!

  • They all sound great, very niche and very different from what most women prefer to wear nowadays. I don’t need to add this is what I find particularly interesting since I don’t like to smell like everyone who was talked into buying this season’s special offers in chain perfumeries. Thank you for this excellent recommendation and the draw. I’d love the coffret. EU.

  • My favorite review is the one of Salamanca: “There is a suggestion of oiled leather and the scent of dry earth, grass and anonymous wildflowers. As the fragrance develops the mitti attar reproduces the effect of water evaporating from wet stones.” I can almost smell it and I am sure I would like it very much. Many thanks for so generous draw. I live in Poland, EU.

  • Each of the scents reviewed sounds different and I’d love to win a coffret and try them all. I like the idea of opening one’s mind and nose to new experiences. I live in Europe, Thank you for the article and the draw.

  • Salamanca sounds like a fragrance I’d love. Great read on this amazing house. I’m in Canada and would love the coffret set.

  • Roger Engelhardt says:

    Never had the opportunity to try this line, but I have heard so many good, good things about this house!!
    I’ll take a shot.
    I live in the USA.