The Three 40notes Perfumes You Should Be Wearing: Sampaguita Jasmine, Exotic Ylang Ylang and Spring Vetiver (Miriam Vareldzis) 2010+ Soliflore Notes Draw

Photo: Courtesy of Ermano Picco gardenia plant

This week, a huge gardenia plant is blooming in my greenhouse. Every morning, when I open the door, my nose is flooded with the scent of the flower. The fragrance of new, old and withering blossoms floats on the greenhouse air, tinted with the smell of wet gravel, moss, humidity and the light citrus odor of cattleya orchids in bloom. Even the sunlight streaming into the greenhouse seems to have a scent of its own, modifying everything else.

Illustration: Pierre Mornet

Fragrances known as soliflores are attempts to capture the unique ephemeral qualities of a single blossom within the context of the atmospheric complexity that gives it life. The word "soliflore" can also mean a small ceramic bud vase, a vessel that supports and showcases a solitary flower. Lately the fragrance concept of "soliflore" has come to be understood as simplistic, linear, one dimensional and uninspiring. But it is clear to me that a beautiful soliflore is not just a chemical replica of a flower's headspace and that the creation of "photorealism" in fragrance is more complicated than simply mixing an essential oil with perfumer's alcohol.  A carefully crafted soliflore can be a masterpiece of perfumery and a glimpse into the perfumer's unique experience of the flower.

Miriam Vareldiz in her Atelier via instagram

Three of my favorite modern soliflore fragrances are from the same house – 40notes.  This is a testament to the skill of perfumer, Miriam Vareldzis who launched 40notes in 2010. Her lifelong relationship with scent includes work with International Flavors and Fragrances and Robertet. Miriam has worked in fragrance evaluation, marketing, development and sales, and as a teacher, mentor and of, course, perfumer.  She is one of the few fragrance artists who embrace the challenge of working exclusively in oils. Unlike perfumer's alcohol, carrier oils can suppress the volatility of a scent. Knowing how to make fragrance oil "sing" is an art in itself.   In today's world of instant gratification and the fast spritz, dabbing on an oil based fragrance is equivalent to an olfactory journey through time – to my mother's dressing table, perhaps, and to tender memories of her touching a favorite perfume to her wrists.

 

40 Notes Pefume Oils are hand poured and each flacon is sealed with a hand tied gold cord, (the art of baudruchage)

Miriam packages her perfumes in classically designed 10 ml bottles, with ground glass stoppers, created by the renowned European glass maker, Verreries Brosse, famous for many styles of luxury perfume bottles, including the iconic CHANEL No 5. 40 Notes bottles are sealed by hand with gold cording known as baudruchage, and adorned with solid 14k gold hang tags, stamped with the company logo. The bottles are offered in pouches of “blind" embossed dark purple suede, contributing to the overall effect of nostalgia and vintage elegance. 

Illustration: Pierre Mornet

La Pitonsia Tropical, Illustration: Pierre Mornet

Sampaguita Jasmine – In the late 1970s, I purchased a jasmine fragrance oil in the Mashhad bazaar in Iran. For almost 40 years I've searched for this scent. 40notes  Sampaguita Jasmine is the closest I've come to reliving my vintage fragrance memory. Sampaguita Jasmine begins quite cool and almost austere, the scent of the flower on a summer morning at dawn, slightly sweet, touched with hay, facets of cool tea, dew and green leaves. As the sun rises, the jasmine flower opens, warmed with indoles and soapy effects that contribute to the rich, heady tropical sensations of Jasminum sambak and tuberose. After about six hours the air close to my skin becomes thick with night blooming flowers and suggestions of a transparent, slightly dusty and shy scent of chèvrefeuille. Notes: Jasmine sambac, a green accord, tuberose and green honeysuckle.

Illustration: Pierre Mornet

Exotic Ylang Ylang is one of the warmest, sexiest solifores I have ever encountered.  The instant the perfume oil touches my skin I am transported to a lush island paradise – replete with buttery sandalwood, huge gardenia blossoms, coconut water and traces of dark jungle undergrowth, fed by suggestions of indole and ripe fruit.  For me the addition of indole to this fragrance has very little to do with any notion of skank or animalic effects. In fact, indoles, in general, have never impressed as skanky but simply as rich, warm and floral. Despite the somewhat moderate sillage, Exotic Ylang Ylang grows and blooms on my skin, larger than life. I become enveloped in its creamy comfort, so much so that any notion of anxiety, urgency or sense of time seems to melt away. At about two hours into the bloom, ExoticYlang Ylang reaches its peak of floral perfection. Over the next four hours, the fragrance folds and fades to a memory of ylang, woods and tanned skin. Notes: Ylang ylang, gardenia and Indole.

 

Illustration: Pierre Mornet

Spring Vetiver – While the term soliflore might not be quite appropriate for Spring Vetiver, the fragrance still features vetiver, defined in context of the season. Spring Vetiver opens with the sparkle of grapefruit and the sharp fruity focus of black currant.There is very little of the earthy, smoky quality usually associated with vetver/kus grass. Instead the sweet green facets of vetiver are emphasized and complimented by the scent of Dossinia marmorata, the Jewel Orchid of Borneo. As the grapefruit mellows out, the delicate sweet green floral of Dossinia, similar to Lily-of-the-Valley with hints of sharp green leaves and watery melon, adds a wet, transparency to the this fruity, green spring garden perfume.  This aqueous phase lasts for about five hours, vanishing as honeysuckle and musk. Notes: Vetiver, Grapefruit, Blackcurrant, Dossinia, Honeysuckle, and Musks.

Illustration: Pierre Mornet

Each scented moment, no matter the source, is a unique, once in a lifetime experience. Whether it is the smell of a loved one's clothing, the aroma of a favorite dessert or the fragrance of a flower, every olfactory occasion, like every moment in life, is unrepeatable and ephemeral. Countless factors coalesce at a single point in time to create a fleeting, olfactory image that can never be exactly relived or replicated. Miriam Vareldzis' fragrances are some of the most beautiful and artistic renditions of flowers “in situ" that I have ever encountered – soliflores that are truly a floral "moments in time".

Disclaimer:  Many thanks to Miriam Vareldzis and 40notes for the beautiful sample set. Opinions are my own.

-Gail Gross, Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief: I chose the art of Pierre Mornet whose illustrations of beautiful, haunting women and flowers evoke the Belle Epoche, which brings to mind the vintage style of 40notes.            

40notes Sampaguita Jasmine, Exotic Ylang Ylang and Spring Vetiver

Thanks to the generosity of Miriam Vareldzis and 40notes we have a reader’s choice of one of the full sized 10ml flacon of Sampaguita Jasmine  or Exotic Ylang Ylang or Spring Vetiver  for one US registered reader or

 The 40notes 7 x1 ml sample set packaged in an origami flower box (which also include Cashmere Musk, Winter White Flowers, Oudwood Veil and Exquisite Amber) internationally and in the USA (be sure to register or your comment will not count).

To be eligible, tell us where you live, what appeals to you about any of the three fragrances based Gail's review, and which you hope to win- sampler or flacon. Do you enjoy dabbing on perfume oils?  Draw closes 5/21/2017

Follow us on instagram @cafleurebon and @miriamvareldzis

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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21 comments

  • In Chicago…would love to sample the jasmine and see for myself what has come close to a fragrance that captivated Gail for 40 years.

  • MichelleU says:

    Sounds like Sampaguita Jasmine to be the really interesting Jasmine I hoped it would be and this is my favorite part of the review “Sampaguita Jasmine begins for me quite cool and almost austere, the scent of the flower on a summer morning at dawn, slightly sweet, touched with hay, facets of cool tea, dew and green leaves.”

    Jasmine, tuberose and honeysuckle sound like the perfect match!

    I would love the sampler!

    I am a reader from the EU! Thank you! Wish you all the best!

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I’m in the US. Sampaguita Jasmine really appeals to me – jasmine is a scent that I have smelled throughout my childhood and have strong memories with. I’m always hunting for a true jasmine fragrance, and this one sounds wonderful. I would like to win a flacon of Sampaguita Jasmine. I like dabbing on perfume oils – the ritual feels so intimate.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I feel Miriam will go a long way. She has worked at IFF and Robertet and she is giving attention to everything from creations to the bottle which is made by VB. It is hard to choose one but I will go for Spring Vetiver since it seems quite refreshing take on the vetiver theme. I am in the US.

  • I am a bit embarrassed to say that I had tried some 40notes samples early on when I fell into the infamous, perfume rabbit hole. They were lovely, but I was like a kid in the candy store sampling like crazy and very disorganized. When a perfume is beautiful it doe not matter whether it is a spay or an oil. Both work well for me. I would really love to win the flacon of Sampaguita Jasmine because I know it is gorgeous. Live in the US.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    They all sound wonderful, but my choice would be Exotic Ylang Ylang. Summer is coming and I want to feel and smell sexy and warm – I like perfume oils very much, my skin sometimes gets reddish from the alcohol of normal perfumes.

    thnaks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • Anna Egeria says:

    I have always loved jasmine and associate it with happiness. I’d love to win Sampaguita Jasmine which sounds exquisite. I do use perfume oils. I live in the US and thank you for this draw.

  • I live in the US. Sampaguita Jasmine appeals to me the most and I love how she recreated it from an oil she smelled several years earlier. The way this composition transforms like a jasmine flower’s scent does throughout the day is a total blessing. I would love to win the sampler. I love oils, especially natural to almost all natural Attars. With a touch of synthetics to improve performance and minimally reduce the natural aroma. Thank you so much.

  • NiceVULady says:

    The descriptions are so inviting for all three, although the combination of jasmine, honeysuckle, and tuberrose in the Sampaguita Jasmine beckons. I would like the win the sampler actually as this would give me the opportunity to explore this perfumer. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • I, too, wanted to be transported to a lush tropical paradise! I would love to win a flacon of the Exotic Ylang Ylang and feel this way. I own perfume oils and wear them regularly. I live in the US.

  • Hi there, i live in Italy, i guess the ylang ylang intrigues me the most. I would love to win the 7×1 sample set. And yes, i use the oils, mainly in summer. Thank You.

  • I’m from Canada. The Exotic Ylang Ylang sounds great. I’d love to get a chance to sample the line. I really like perfume oils; the touch makes applying them feel like something sacred and I like that they tend to be softer in presence but just melt into the skin.

  • Love learning about the craft itself. Always amazed at how much there is to learn about in the fragrance world.
    Making the oil sing for instance. They all sound absolutely wonderful, hard to settle on which one, so I would love the sampler set. I’m in US and registered.

  • hotlanta linda says:

    With the great article and love-ly pictures, each scent makes us swoon! We choose Ylang Ylang for the draw, and thank you to the perfumer for use of glass stoppered bottles! We are registered in the USA – thank you!!

  • doveskylark says:

    I like the description of the cool tea aspect of Sampaguita Jasmine. I have recently been layering jasmine fragrances with my beloved leather fragrances with sultry results.
    I’d love to win the Sampaguita Jasmine bottle.
    I live in the USA.

  • I love the sound of the jasmine. I understand the hunt for a long remembered perfume and I’m glad Gail found hers! I would love to win the jasmine and I live in the USA. Thanks for the draw

  • Resident of the USA

    The appeal of these three perfumes (to me) is how simple combinations meted just so can produce so many accords and nuances throughout the perfumes’ development. I have a deep & abiding love of natural perfumes yet perfumed oils (true pure parfum) done right are works of art.

    Sampler for me, please. Variety is indeed the spice of life and though 10 ml of perfume oil is an amazing and very generous prize, the titles of the other four perfumes and the three Gail reviewed have me wanting a rainbow of fragrances!! 😀

    There is something so much more sensual about dabbing perfumed oil on than spritzing (a wonderful tactile experience in itself) it reminds me of olden perfume days of yore when one just applied powerful jus at one’s pulse points and it lasted all day or night…so YES I do, very much so.

  • Really enjoy the note of vetiver so that one is definitely the most appealing one to me. I’m in Canada and would love to win the sample set!

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    All sounds great! But I am more fascinated with the review for Exotic Ylang Ylang, few simple notes & appealing and shapes soliflore. After visiting the official website of 40 notes, I am inspired from the creator Miriam and 40 notes perfumes. The last paragraph of Gail “Each scented moment, no matter……… moments in time” is so effective that no other can explain in a better way.
    Thanks to the generosity of Miriam Vareldzis & 40notes, and Cafleurebon for the opportunity.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • rodelinda says:

    How could I not want Exotic Ylang Ylang if it’s “one of the warmest, sexiest soliflores” you’ve tried? I’m in the US, and I would choose the flacon of Exotic Ylang Ylang, although the jasmine is also very tempting. Thanks for the drawing.

  • I have never used a perfume oil. I am newer to this whole niche/specialty fragrance. I sure wish I had discovered this amazing range of fragrance sooner. I hope to go to one of Miriam’s classes since she is just “over the river” from where I live. With her long history in fragrance I am sure her offerings are amazing. I love the adorable bottles and the detail of the presentation. I would love to win the Sampaguita Jasmine. Thanks for the draw.