The Return of Vero Kern: Eaux de Perfection

 

In 2008, Vero Kern the perfumer and Founder of .vero.profumo. introduced three perfume extraits… they are Rubj, Kiki and Onda. Over the past 24 months, in a market cluttered with 500-600 commercial releases yearly, which does not include the hundreds released by niche perfumers, these three fragrances are globally lauded by perfumistas..

Whilst many niche perfumers introduce as many as a dozen new fragrances yearly, Vero chose quality over quantity, and presented three perfumed gifts to the world of fragrance. And it was enough. Or so we thought.

 

 

Now in 2010, Vero has created three new fragrances, eau de parfum interpretations of the originals.

Portrait of Dora Maar, Pablo Picasso

Even if you have never experienced the parfums, the eau de parfum versions are exquisite and very different interpretations of the originals. Like Picasso's portrait of Dora Maar with three colors masterfully representing not only different planes on the subject's face, but also her exquisite emotions, they maintain the joli-laide aesthetics Vero is known for, each stand on their own. I have tested each fragrance on my skin, as well as own all three originals, and  they are truly Eaux de Perfection.

In my opinion, they should not be compared and contrasted withe originals; I will leave that for others who previewed the scents previously, and for those in the future who will feel the need to deconstruct and reconstruct.  I will use art and images representing what I believe Vero's vision may be vs. how the new EDPs smell on me. In my ongoing correspondance with Vero, she kindly allowed CaFleureBon to reprint her official  press release. They are available for sale in July 2010,  and will be sold  at Luckyscent and at Sündhaft in Munich.  I believe you will be delighted. the following is the press release that will soon be issued via Vero and her publicist. – MichelynCamen, Editor-In-Chief

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*…The proximity of beauty to ugliness is never clearer than in tropical fruit. Perhaps because they have to compete with powerful smells of decay for the attention of birds, tropical fruit have decided to play dirty. Adding tiny amounts of rot on an otherwise conventional fruity smell is as invigorating as finding out that a theoretical physicist colleague was once a stripper… ". Luca Turin NNZ Folio n. 3 of 2009   

 About the soon to be launched eau de parfum‐line, Vero Kern states: "The new perfumes are not the diluted version of the extracts. An eau de parfum needs a structure highlighting more the top notes as opposed to the base notes, but with the aim of keeping the original style of the extract intact".

In order to render the scents lighter and easier to wear, the compositions have been simplified; yet that "je ne sais quoi" unmistakably characterizing the extracts is still clearly there. "I replaced the animalic notes with the unique scent of the passionfruit – says Vero Kern – I personally love it very much and think that it lends a sensual and erotic lightness to the composition. Like an invisible thread, the intriguing scent of passionfruit links the three perfumes: it is at the core of everchanging, unexpected olfactory sensations with multifaceted evolutions. With respect to the new packaging, Vero Kern opted for an elegant 100% recyclable cylindrical packaging. In addition, following her unfailing desire to provide her perfumes with the dignity of a universal artwork – Vero Kern chose a fabric case in dazzling colours, thereby creating a sublime contrast to the minimalism of the packaging Vero Kern extraits.

Michelyn interprets the new Eaux

 

 EAU DE KIKI

Top: Lavender Ess., Bergamot, Citron, Passionfruit

Middle: Lavender Abs. Geranium

Base: Caramel, Patchouli, Ambre Gris 

(MC: my skin eats the lavender and i pull honeyed florals, the passionfruit comes through creating a luscious fruity floral)

 EAU DE ONDA

Top: Bergamot, Citron, Mandarin, Ginger, Coriander, Basil, Passionfruit

Middle: Iris, Ylang Ylang, Honey

Base: Vetiver Bourbon, Patchouli, Musk,Cedar‐Wood, Ambre Gris

(MC: The picture above is me. It was shot when I wore Onda. I felt like a tigress on the prowl, ready to pounce)

 

 EAU DE RUBJ

Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Neroli, Passionfruit

Middle: Orangeflower Abs. Tuberose, Basil

Base: Cedre, Mousse d. Chène, Musk

(MC: the orange notes aree subdued, a modern day Salome.Veiled and erotic) visi ***********

Vero's vision?

kiki ‐ For individualists with French chic.  An Homage to the beautiful city of Paris. An almost burlesque side of the proud MADAME LAVANDE DE FRANCE Frivolous, powdery notes of caramel and musk weave in and out all around Madame, while exotic fruits join in. Pure and wild at the same time, like a visit to the Bibliothèque nationale followed by dinner and a show at the «Crazy Horse» cabaret. Extrait de parfum 7,5ml and 15ml Eau de parfum, 50ml.

 

 

onda ‐ For those who love the good things in life.

The finest vetiver roots seasoned with sizzling, fiery notes of ginger,mace and coriander. Ambrosial whisperings, sweet nothings, tender and potent – and deeply moving Extrait de parfum 7,5ml and 15ml Eau de parfum, 50ml.   

 rubj ‐ For the eccentric and flamboyant. Sweet orange blossom from Morocco, in a mellifluous shimmery dress of the finest notes of musk, earnestly courted by tempting Egyptian jasmine. An auspicious alliance, indeed. A rendezvous in Sheikh Nefzaoui’s «Perfumed Garden» –a place of secret passions. Extrait de parfum 7,5ml and 15ml Eau de parfum, 50ml.  

 

About Vero Kern  

Originally trained as a pharmaceutical assistant, Vero Kern came into contact with aromas and fragrance ingredients early on, sharpening those skills in her ten years in pharmacy. In 1994, and after a long period working for Swissair, she began working independently as a massage therapist and aromatherapist. A two‐year training course as an aromatherapist at the same time gave her a firm foundation for professional involvement with essential oils and absolutes. Soon Vero Kern was creating personal blends for her own clientele. From 1998, she attended a range of training courses and seminars at a perfumery college in Paris. The principal and founder of the college was Monique Schlienger who, in the sixties, was a pupil of Jean Carles, one of the greatest perfumers of the 20th century.  Vero Kern's olfactory preferences lie with the classical perfumes: Guerlain, Chanel or Caron are, for her, the highlights of classical perfumery, an art which is slowly disappearing. With their sumptuous  flacons and packaging, and exquisite fragrance compounds, each expressed the spirit of its age with exquisite beauty. .vero.profumo. is a chance for Vero Kern to translate this original idea of perfume as an all‐embracing concept into the present. Out of this, she has created perfumes that awaken the emotions. You might call it having 'happiness to hand' – in your handbag".   – via press release  

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5 comments

  • Thank you so much for this preview, Michelyn.     I can't wait to smell Vero's new eau de parfums.  Her parfums are as close to perfect as anything I have ever smelled.  I love the way that they unfold, note by note, as you wear them.  I am fascinated by the thought of their continuing their transformations in a new concentration with the addition of a new note.  I can't remember ever having smelled passionfruit, but even its name sounds precisely right for her passionate perfumes.

  • chayaruchama says:

    I ADORE the Dora Maar allusion, and the photo of you; Vero is a sublime force of nature, all by herself.
    It gives me such pleasure to anticipate these eaux !
    Passionfruit is a wonderfully juicy, playful note- I'm eager to see how it  plays out.
    I truly appreciate that Vero only releases that which pleases her as completely as it can ….
    Instead of grinding the gears of the creative wheel .

  • thank you chayaruchama and Kathryn. I am very happy that vero sent me the full press release. The Dora Maar image really sums them up, so I thank you for noticing. Vero creates outside the box. very few other perfumers can claim that and mean it.

  • I enjoyed learning more about Vero and her perfumes.  Thank you for another lovely, informative article!