The Fragrance Foundation Master Class with Jean-Paul Agon, CEO & Chairman of L’Oreal (and Q & A with Linda G. Levy) + Designer Fragrances & Tote Draw

Photo: Florence Gould Hall by Hernando©

On October 5th, The Fragrance Foundation held its second Master Class at Florence Gould Hall at the French Institute Alliance Française featuring Jean-Paul Agon, the CEO and Chairman of L'Oreal. 

Jean-PaulAgon, LindaG.Levy and JerryVittoria

Opening remarks: Jerry Vittoria, Chairman of the Fragrance Foundation and Head of Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich introduced Linda G. Levy, the new President the Fragrance Foundation by stating that she starts a new chapter for the Foundation with a focus and attention to creating greater consumer engagement and becoming the industry's go-to source for training, education, and expertise in fragrance.  Ms. Levy welcomed the audience thanking  them for the ongoing support of The Fragrance Foundation. "Now, if I haven't called you, emailed you or otherwise knocked down your door, I will be doing that very shortly so get ready." 

Maurizio Volpe (Givaudan), Jean-Paul Agon, Linda G. Levy, Gilles Andrier (Givaudan), Felix Mayr-Harting 

 In introducing Jean-Paul Agon, Linda Levy said “we’re excited to have a visionary and beauty icon here tonight. We’re looking forward to sharing ideas and life experien­ces, and that will leave you feeling inspiring and enlightened.” She also introduced the Notables, "as the next generation of influencers and the future of the fragrance industry".

From Left: Galliane de Wende, Justin Welch, Lorraine Miche, Sophia McLoughlin, Jean-Paul Agon, Linda G. Levy, Anna Wilk, Jacquelyn Ward, Alexandra Hardyment

THE NOTABLES:

Alexandra Hardyment, Executive Director AERIN Beauty

Jessica Luc, Marketing Manager, Fine Fragrance & Specialty Bath, Symrise

Sophia McLoughlin, Marketing Manager, Women’s Fragrance, Chanel, Inc.

Lorraine Michede Malleray, Consumer Science Senior Manager, IFF

Justin Welch, Marketing Director, Firmenich

Galliane de Wende, Senior Manager, US Marketing, Ultra Luxury Fragrances, Coty

Anna Wilk, Marketing Director, Interparfums

Master Class with Jean-Paul Agon photo Hernando

Linda Levy turned the microphone over to Felix Mayr-Harting, Global Head of Fine Fragrances, Givaudan. He lauded Ms. Levy's debut and pointed out the event was a sellout. He welcomed and introduced Jean-Paul Agon to the stage and thanked him for agreeing to headline the night's event.

Jean-Paul Agon began the Master Class by recounting that he lived in New York City from 2001-2005, when he arrived with his family, one week before 9/11 and started with Coty one week later. He views himself as very competitive and likes that America is a country of competition. Fittingly his name Agon is Greek for "fight." M. Agon stated that between 1978 and 2008 the beauty business was conducted pretty much in the same manner. He acknowledged that the business has changed tremendously over the past three or four years so much so that it has little in common with the past. The digital, consumer retail, media revolution has had a profound impact and will continue to going forward.

Master Class with Jean-Paul Agon

Career: Beginning his career as a 21 yrs. old in Paris, M. Argon was relocated to Greece for four years as General Manager. He learned the language and fell in love with the country where he still owns property and where he vacations. He was sent to the US where he spent six months visiting retailer after retailer to gain insights,  “American consumers are obviously one of the most expert and discerning consumers of the world, and that’s why the competition here is so fierce. The competition in the U.S. is healthy. I think that this industry is all about innovation, new ideas, creations, especially in the fragrance world, so the more competition there is, the better it gets.”

Planning Globally, Marketing Locally:  “In the beauty world, you need to have global brands and they need to be in every part of the world. If you take the L’Oréal Paris brand, the number one brand in the world, the formulation of the products will be different in every part of the globe. We try to reconcile this necessary global approach, but never forgetting the relevant approach for every consumer.” Agon said. Products like makeup and skincare can be formulated to cater to certain regions but with not so with fragrance, the juice cannot be changed from one continent to the other."  

The Elephant In The Room: L’Oréal holds the number one position as a beauty brand in the world with over $120 billion market cap. Its culture is entrepreneurial but has the "soul of a family business". Regarding the recent passing of Liliane Bettencourt, the only daughter of L’Oréal founder, Eugène Schueller, M.Argon said it affected them all emotionally. He knew her well and she was like a mother to him. She will be missed.

The Digital Revolution: "The digital revolution places the consumer at the heart of the matter. It is opening new dimensions, new horizons, and new perspectives on the industry. Regarding fragrance, it is all about imagination, emotion. He believes that with digital certain things can be done today that was not possible before. Target marketing is absolutely fundamental for fragrance since the market is very segmented".

Scent Storytelling: How can fragrance brands convey “storytelling” and perfumer artistry into the retail environment? Argon believes they can do much than what has been done. New technologies will allow them to go even further, 3D visuals for example. "Our fragrances are inspired by our partnership in the fashion, movie, gaming, and luxury industries."

Atelier Cologne Boutique NYC and founders Christophe and Sylvie Cervasel (photo from Atelier Cologne) 

Artisanal and Natural Trends: Of course, this is an area of great interest to our readers. We have been writing about it and immersing ourselves in Artisanal and natural perfumery since our inception. We have different definitions of “Artisanal”,  than what was discussed at the Event, but the passion is the same. M. Agon expressed enthusiasm for ingredient-driven fragrances which employ storytelling. When asked about the demand for more artisanal and natural scents, Agon declared it as “one of the best moves in the industry.” He noted that the recent acquisition of “artisanal brand”, Atelier Cologne, (our interview with founders Sylvie and Christophe Cervasel in 2010 here a few months after their launch) is a long-term investment for the Company. "The rise of artisanal brands offers authenticity and quality that he believes will create a positive impact on the industry."

Sustainability: Ms. Levy enquired about Coty’s approach to sustainability. M. Agon responded that "as the leader of the beauty industry, we are committed to making sure by 2020 that 100% of our products will have a positive impact on society. Every product will be replaced in the next three or four years. Every new product launched will have a positive impact on the environment.” 

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Fragrance Foundation President, Linda G. Levy was kind enough to make herself available for a brief interview.  

Hernando Courtright: It was announced that The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to put a concentrated focus on education and develop a closer connection with consumers. Can you give us some insight into how The Fragrance Foundation is planning to achieve those goals?   

Linda Levy closing out the evening 

Linda Levy: The Fragrance Foundation will work closely with our member companies to develop programs that connect with consumers’ in-store and online. Our goal is to become more inclusive and heighten the appreciation of the artistry of perfumers among consumers. Stay tuned for our big plans in 2018! 

–Hernando Courtright, Senior Event Contributor and Brand Ambassador and Michelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief

All photos by Griff Lipson/BFA and Eric T. Michelson for The Fragrance Foundation unless otherwise noted.

Ralph Lauren Tote  with Designer Perfumes and Prestige Beauty

Thanks to the Fragrance Foundation and the evening’s sponsors L'Oreal and Givaudan, we have a Ralph Lauren tote bag including Ralph Lauren Romance (100ml), Giorgio Armani Si (30ml), Black Opium Yves Saint Laurent (30ml), AIR di Gioia and SKY di Gioia (10ml rollerballs) Giorgio Armani, Because it's YOU (10ml rollerball) by Emporio Armani, Acqua di GIO and ARMANI Code (20ml) by Giorgio Armani.This draw is open to a CON US registered CaFleureBon readers only.

To be eligible please leave a comment you must be a registered reader (please be sure to register here). Tell us what you thought of the Master Class, what you think about the subjects discussed, and thoughts you have as a  beauty and fragrance consumer. Given the chance, what questions would you ask M. Jean-Paul Agon or Linda G. Levy? Draw closes 10/25/2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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10 comments

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    I thought it was interesting that although beauty products are altered to ‘fit’ the needs of worldwide customers, fragrances stay the same. I’m sure than many of our skincare and beauty needs differ from region to region so that is understandable. It is commendable that companies are looking towards the future of natural and sustainable ingredients. I would like to ask how much has changed in their companies now that the US in particular has a rapidly aging population. I am in the US.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m glad that sustainability has been a topic of discussion. That is important. I’m also glad that they are focusing on becoming closer to their consumers. My question would address how you see positioning your market between what appears to me to be a disappearing middle class and a great and greater chasm between what people can afford. I’d love to win this draw. Thank you so much. I live in the USA

  • Cynthia says:

    Interesting discussion. I am curious if when the big brands acquire the small brands, what do they do to keep them unique? And how to they try to keep their “nicheness” or is that the goal? Thanks for the review. usa

  • fazalcheema says:

    The new approach o greater engagement with consumer is the right one though I thought it is already being done. I didn’t know L’Oreal has such a high market cap. Not many companies in the world can claim to have over $100 billion market cap. If I have the opportunity to ask question, i will ask how far off multi sensory experiences are in the future that incorporate smell. For example, in movie theaters and even devices that allow users to smell different perfumes from home without relying on samples. I am in US.

  • Dana U says:

    Sounds like there was some interesting, thought provoking ideas presented at this meeting. I never thought about the fact that beauty products are formulated differently on a regional basis, but fragrance is unchanged. As a consumer who buys mostly drugstore beauty products, I would ask L’OREAL to think about the pricing structure as many products seem to be quickly approaching department store prices. Also, when they acquire a small company, such as my much loved CeraVe, please respect the original popular products and don’t change them. I do love L’OREAL and I would love to win this bag. Thanks for the opportunity and I am in the USA.

  • Diana D says:

    Wow, what an incredible event!

    If I could speak with any one of them, I ask them about why they discontinue a scent/fragrance when it appears to be incredibly popular. I understand the concept of wanting to release new compilations to generate more business. But so many times a very popular fragrances will suddenly be retired and we all have to scramble to buy back up bottles. It’s irritating. Dior is so notorious for doing this.

    I live in the U.S.

  • Vahagn says:

    WOW!!! So reach giveway! Thanks!!!
    I would ask them- what thay think about niche perfume market? Lately the niche perfumes are in demand, why L’Oreal has only one brand Atelier Cologne (which I did find in L’Oreal off. site), but in same time others (for example Estee ) swiftly try to master niche market?
    USA, DE

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I didn’t know that Atelier Cologne was bought out. I have mixed feelings about that, often the quality (over time) doesn’t improve. I would ask why some fragrances are only released in their special “boutiques”, not all of us live in large cities that allow us to go to the boutique. I had a friend pick up a sample from Diptyque when she was in Los Angeles because I had heard such good things about it. The beauty/fragrance industry certainly has changed. I have bought products I never would have known about without Instagram. Ads in glossy magazines don’t sway me at all, I look to the beauty bloggers for their opinions. Discontinuing fragrances that seem to have a lot of demand is also puzzling to me. Thanks for the information!! I live in the U.S. WA

  • doveskylark says:

    I am very interested in the cosmetics industry and, while I tend to favor independent houses, I do respect big corporations that have a mission of sustainability and inclusiveness. I also respect Mr. Agon’s view of American competitiveness. This definitely can be a positive force for the consumer. I would like to ask Mr. Agon more details about how L’oreal maintains its “soul” of a family business.
    I live in the continental USA.

  • anne says:

    I also didn’t know that Atelier Cologne was acquired and find this interesting. I would be curious to know more about that, because yes, the public perception is that quality decreases as a house becomes more corporatized. However, it’s also so hard to keep a small business afloat so understandable as well.

    I would also be curious to know more about how L’oreal keeps innovating in fragrance when cynics might say that new fragrances are just repeating and re-branding the old classics.

    I’m also curious to know what they think of the booming “sample box culture” that has emerged via services like Birchbox, Sephora Play, etc. Is that good for business? Or bad? Seems like it has gotten so much more competitive for beauty brands.

    Thanks for recapping the event! I wanted to attend but was out of town.