Shay & Blue Black Tulip (Julie Massé) Review + La Tulipe Noire Draw

‘To have discovered the black tulip, to have seen it for but a moment...” – Alexander Dumas

 Melancholic Tulip – 1939 Estate of André Kertész/Higher Pictures

In March 2018,  Shay & Blue will debut a new fragrant tribute to that most stunning of spring flowers, the black tulip. Since the moment I first heard of the Shay & Blue Black Tulip I have been eager to try it and wondering how creative director Dom de Vetta and in-house perfumer Julie Massé would employ fragrance to convey the illusive hues of the legendary flower.

Jan Brueghel The Elder – Flowers In A Wan- Li Vase 1609

The myth of the Black Tulip, the unattainable floral ideal, began with wild species tulips growing in the high mountains of Iran and Central Asia. Artists and poets, Ferdousi, Rumi and Hafez among others, celebrated the beauty of cultivated tulips in paintings and verse. In 1593 the tulip made its way from the high mountains of turkey (via Vienna, Austria), to the low country fields of Holland. Dutch horticulturalist Carolus Clusias and fellow botanists began hybridizing for shape, size and color, unwittingly, propagating bulbs infected with a virus that created stunning flame-patterned blossoms. These “broken” blooms are best seen in the colorful still life paintings of Jan Brueghel the Elder (1568-1625). Before the first decade of the 17th century had passed, Dutch Tulip Mania was in full bloom.  A single bulb of the red and white flamed Semper Augustus tulip sold for enough money to buy a house, a horse and a carriage!

Tulips, Robert Mapplethorpe, 1979

Nevertheless, the most sought after tulip of all, the mythical pure black, continued to elude hybridizers.  When the speculative bubble in tulip futures burst in 1637, the pure black tulip did exist – but only in the imagination of gardeners, artists and botanists.Published in the year 1850, Alexandre Dumas’ La Tulipe Noire, his last major work of historical fiction, revived public interest in the legendary flower. The writer’s tale of love, jealousy and obsession revolved around political personalities and events associated with the bulb market crash of 1637.

‘Tulipa, La Tulipe Noire’ by Leenderk Blok

Inspired by the Dumas novella, hybridizers in Holland once again began the search for a true black tulip – a quest that continues to this day. There have been many “not quite black” tulips over the years, ‘Queen of the Night’, ‘Black Parrot’ and ‘Paul Scherer’ to name but a few, all flowering in hues of deep purple, magenta and aubergine.

Black Nightmare Tulip via @dutchgrown

In the 21st century, despite advances in genetic engineering, a truly black tulip is still only a dream. The summer of 2017 saw the birth of a tulip called  “Nightmare”.  This new cultivar may be the blackest bloom to date. 

 

Vintage Balenciaga tulip gowns via flickr

With the introduction of Black Tulip, Shay & Blue joined the writers, poets and visual artists of the past, bringing the image of the black tulip to life, this time as an enchanting perfume. Shay & Blue Black Tulip opens cool and wet, like drops of dew cradled in a the heart of a blossom or the clean white and green of snowdrops dripping with rain. This first breath is colored with the juicy effect of ripe plum and the sweet, delicate freshness of cyclamen.

Balenciaga fashion editorial via flickr

Ten minutes pass before I recognize the rare scent of early season tulips. (Only about 15 to 20 percent of tulips have any discernable fragrance). The tulip accord at the heart of Shay & Blue Black Tulip, like the first tulips of spring, treats me to olfactory elements of freesia and fruit. A touch of coconut and white chocolate lend a warm, semi-gourmand taste to the scent of the flowers. 

Suzy Parker Wearing A Dior Dress And Jacket, March 15th, 1952 by Horst P. Horst

At about thirty minutes the petals begin to darken as suggestions of black magic come to life in notes of cacao noir, oud and musk. Discrete and elegant to the end, the black tulip of myth and legend lives on my skin for at least eight hours before it disappears into a dark forest of shadowy, soft woods.

 

Christian Dior Couture 2010

For years the impossible dream of the black tulip has inspired artists, fashion designers and gardeners everywhere. In Alexandre Dumas’ novella La Tulipe Noire, the flower serves as an emblem of perfect human love, blooming and triumphing despite all odds and obstacles. Shay & Blue Black Tulip is a dark, gently tender romance, a fragrant enchantment that carries me from the gloomy days of winter into the new life and promise of spring. Notes: Snowdrops, cyclamen, black tulip, plum, white chocolate, soft woods, cacao noir, coconut, dark oud and musk.

Disclaimer:  I would like to thank Shay & Blue and Dom de Vetta for my treasured bottle of Black Tulip.  My opinions are my own.

Gail Gross – Senior Editor

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief and Art Director

Shay & Blue Black Tulip photo Shay & Blue

Thanks to the generosity of Shay & Blue London and Dom De Vetta we have one 30 ml bottle of Black Tulip for one registered reader  in the US, the EU or Canada (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us where you live, what appeals to you about Gail’s review, your favorite tulip or fragrance by Shay & Blue. Draw closes 2/1/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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42 comments

  • FragrantWitch says:

    This sounds wonderful! The balance between a fresh hopeful spring scent and a darker more sensuous element sounds fantastic and I will look forward to trying this. Thanks for the chance! Btw I am in the U.K.

  • This is a wonderful review! I very enjoyed to read this article, and I very love the selected pictures also, mostly the “Black Nightmare Tulip” picture. Those tulips are really amazing. In my childhood, we had red tulips in our garden, I liked those ones too. I have never tried any perfume withe tulip note. And I never had a chance to try any fragrance by Shay & Blue. Thank you for the generous draw. I live in the EU.

  • OMG, I love tulips. When I had my garden business, I specialized in them, which was no mean feat in southern CA, where the bulbs have to be chilled before they’re planted. I had to beg refrigerator space over three counties! But SO worth it, even though they don’t repeat there, usually. The orange ones have the best scent, although my personal favorite are hot pinks like Barcelona and Reknown.

    Wonderful review, as always Gail!

  • I’ve never tried any Shay & Blue fragrance but this one sounds interesting, especially some notes like snowdrops and black tulip. Pretty curios about how a black tulip actually smells 🙂 and if it’s similar to one classic red or yellow. Also i love the ideea that this juice leans to a semi-gourmand type cause of the white chocolate, coconut and cacao noir. I live in the EU, thabks for the draw

  • sounds very interesting, and different from what I have in my collection of scents and samples. lovely images to accompany the review as well. intrigued by the contrast of cool and wet to the final woody notes, with the coconut and white-chocolate notes. In the US, thank you for the draw!

  • fazalcheema says:

    I never knew there is black tulip and we do have to marvel at the magic of genetic engineering that we finally have a black tulip now. When I read the name of the perfume, i thought it is an abstract perfume that explores how a black tulip may smell but it seems like Masse was inspired by actual historical facination with finding a black tulip. I confess I have never smelled tulip and I don’t know whether tulip has a smell or not. thanks for the draw. I am in US. My fav. Shay & Blue is Oud Alif.

  • Love the concept behind this fragrance. The articles adds to the mystique of this upcoming release and I would love to win it. So far my favorite fragrance from Shay and Blue is Franboise noire.

  • Great article! Tulip mania was covered as the ‘beauty’ section in Michael Pollan’s documentary Botany of Desire, and I desire to smell this fragrance – and see some of the tulips this spring. I con’t have any tulip scents, nor do I recall much from ones I have planted; and have only sampled Shay & Blue in the store. I live in the US, thank you for the draw.

  • I enjoyed the story of the black tulip history and would love to win this. My fave Shay & Blue is Sicilian Limes. US

  • I liked the storytelling vibe of this review–learning more about the tulip bubble, and its treatment in prose and visual arts.

    A few years ago I began to notice a scent from some tulips a gardener neighbor grows, and smelled each kind to compare. Further down the street another house has these deep purple-aubergine kinds growing along the sidewalk…I kind of understand the bubble and craze for black a bit because I covet those! And these tulips from a bouquet that were striped and had a feathery ruffled edge, they smelled good and I saved the petals. Growing those would be a treat!

    There’s an interesting fresh-aquatic plus spicy opening to most of them. Not sure I would want to wear that exact aroma but the concept is fascinating.

    Thank you for the review and draw
    USA

  • I enjoyed the history of black tulips, or rather the attempts at cultivating one. I don’t have a favorite tulip. I gave up growing them because they are a favorite of deer and I hate losing them as soon as they bloom. As for Shay & Blue, so far Blood Orange is my favorite. I’m in the US.

  • I am in love with Frambois Noire and am consistently impressed by how REALISTIC Shay & Blue perfumes smell. I think Gail’s description of the accords would absolutely capture that beauty Nightmare, if it had a distinct fragrance. I used to be a gardener and learned tulips are a lot more resilient than I thought. I could see this scent working for someone who wants to be both elegant and strong.

  • As a fan of roman La Tulipe noir , I find the concept very intriguing. And I love the photos. Haven’t tried Shay & Blue before.
    Thank you for the chance! I live in Europe

  • What I really like in Black Tulipe of Shay & Blue as Gail mentions in this review is the semi-gourmand taste to the scent of flowers with notes like coconut, white chocolate, lending a warm character to this fragrance while cacao noir, oud, musk add elegance and discretion
    “the black tulip of myth and legend lives on my skin for at least eight hours before it disappears into a dark forest of shadowy, soft woods”.
    Would really love to learn how a black tulip actually smells since it is my favorite kind of tulip (love the black velvety effect when you see one, so rare and unique).
    I live in EU, thank you for the lovely review (amazing pictures) and draw as well.

  • I really enjoyed this review!!! Bravo, Gail!!! This sentence enough for me to wish test this fragrance: “Shay & Blue Black Tulip is a dark, gently tender romance, a fragrant enchantment that carries me from the gloomy days of winter into the new life and promise of spring.” So nice conclusion!
    I am not familiar with Shay & Blue fragrances!
    I know only Tulip by Byredo!
    USA

  • I had no idea that the multicolored tulips were due to a virus in th bulbs. I have tried a few of Shay & Bluenscents and find the caramel delicious. I live in the US.

  • My favourites tulips are those dark ones – like aubergine colour ones. For me, this Black Nightmare Tulip on the picture looks quite black, they are really beautiful indeed. The whole story about looking for a black tulip is really inspiring. Unfortunately, I don’t know the house. I live in EU.

  • Hi great review learned quite a bit about tulip, pretty amazing that only 15 to 20 percent of tulips have any discernible fragrance,I lived most of life in yukon and alaska so havent got to experience all these gorgeous flowers,Don’t think I’ve tried any tulip fragrances persay but would love to,my favourite tulip definitely are the black ones there hypnotic to look at.

    Anyway thanks for giveaway ,Im in Canada !

  • Barbara Carter says:

    What a lovely review, and I love the photos, especially the fashion photos with the gloves. The black tulip stories throughout my life have always enchanted me, and this fragrance sounds enchanting. The tulip is one of the most beautiful flowers, and I am looking forward to seeing them soon in the flower shops. I can’t really plant them here in California because I have tuber loving animals who dig and eat everything in my garden – tulips, iris, you name it.
    Gail, what a lovely review, and Shay and Blue is a reliably great perfume house. This sounds divine. Thank you for the opportunity, I am in Los Angeles. By the way, my favorite tuiips are the saw tooth edged ones – I think they are called parrot tulips, don’t remember. They have a lovely soft fragrance, very light, like iris blossoms.

  • I am a bit of a tulip fan and have attempted many varieties in my gardens over the years, not too many survive the winter where I live though. I do have some vivid fuschia Barcelona tulips that return every year and they are so beautiful. I have attempted to grow Queen of Night with no success so I shall have to investigate Nightmare, thanks for the tip. 🙂 None of the tulips in my garden have a discernible scent, at least to me, so it is interesting to see perfumers’ interpretations. I have tried Nest’s version but it does not evoke the flower in my mind. My favorite Shay & Blue fragrance is Dandelion Fig. I live in the US and thank you for this chance.

  • I love tulips and continue to try to grow them, mostly with little success after the first year. Almost every fall I plant some bulbs, which bloom beautifully if the squirrels and other creatures don’t eat them, but they never bloom much after that, although they do produce leaves. The best luck I’ve had is with some sort of “black” ones that managed to repeat about 4 years in a row before they declined, and the small “wild-type” species tulips, probably like the original ones from Turkey. The tulips are popping up now, along with the crocuses, so I’m curious to see this year’s survivors. As always, Gail provided a fascinating historical backstory for the perfume – always fun to read! I’m in the US and would love to win this unique perfume.

  • I’ve never tried any Shay& Blue fragrances, but I have been thinking about it for a long time. As a gardener, I was most interested in Gail’s review of the history of the black tulip. I’ve never encountered a scented tulip to my knowledge, so this interpretation should be interesting. Thank you for a lovely review with beautiful vintage fashion photos, and thank you for a lovely Spring giveaway. I’m in the USA

  • Brady Heller says:

    I have tried Oud Alif and it is amazing. I think that gail did an amazing review especially the history of tulips and that drydown “black magic come to life in notes of cacao noir, oud and musk”. Those photos were beautiful too
    I am in the USA

  • codylwoodward says:

    I’ve never put my nose on a Shay & Blue fragrance but this Black Tulip sounds amazing – rich and dark. I enjoyed how Gail’s words make you experience the fragrance. For example, “At about thirty minutes the petals begin to darken as suggestions of black magic come to life in notes of cacao noir, oud and musk.” Great review! USA

  • I’d never thought about black tulips until now, but I found Gail’s story about the quest for the elusive cultivar very interesting. (Imagine the price a black tulip bulb would have commanded in 17th-century Holland before the tulip crash!) “Midnight” tulips look pretty black to me! Nor have I ever smelled a tulip with any real, discernible scent of its own, other than that crisp, fresh scent I associate with floral shops. I’ve not smelled any Shay & Blue fragrances, but am intrigued by Salt Caramel (which could be amazing on me, or awful on me). I live in the U.S., and thanks for the draw and wonderful review, Gail!

  • Beautiful review my friend. This black tulip sounds mysterious and good.
    Would like to try it out. I haven’t tried a Shay & Blue Fragrance yet but heard they have good fragrances. Thanks
    From California

  • Extraordinary review, Gail!
    I’ve learned so many new things from this piece of great writing. The fact that a perfectly black tulip hasn’t been created yet is very curios. The darkest tulip i’ve ever seen was indeed a dark purple.
    I haven’t really encountered perfumes with perceptible tulip notes, but remember very well the smell of bloomed tulips from my garden.
    For me a black tulip represents a last wish.
    Would love to try Black Tulip by Shay & Blue. I’m certain i would love it.
    I’m from EU.

  • The botany information was enlightening. I’ve never smelled a tulip. but the cacao note with the floral sounds interesting. My favorite Shay and Blue scent is Salted Caramel. Please enter me for the drawing. I live in the US.

  • I live in the United States. Fails l Gail’s review was great because it created this amazing, unattainable lure between multiple arts and sciences ( botany) and created a sense, that with this fragrance… The unattainable is now within our reaches in this awesome offering from Shay and Blue. I’m not a huge into enjoying Tulips Visually but this black tulip really cool and I’ve found a new favorite in this ” Nightmare” which comes as close as possible the The elusive black tulip. Thank you for the opportunity

  • Tulips at the edge of dark woods, thank you for that beautiful image. I’m very curious about this scent. I adore the feathery parrot tulips. I am in the US.

  • I live on the Central Coast of California. It doesn’t get cold enough here to grow many tulips. The species Tulipa saxatilis is an exception. Luckily, I prefer the species tulips. Other favorites are T. tarda and T. clusiana, which I remember from Northern springs. I so appreciate that Gail shared some of the fascinating history of the tulip. I recommend the book “The Tulip” by Anna Pavord.

  • A perfect review on Shay & Blue’s Black Tulip. The photos really compliment this great piece of writing. It makes me really want to try it.
    I haven’t encountered any perfume with an accentuated tulip note. This makes me even more curious since I had tulips in my back garden and still remeber the smell of early spring flowers.
    Haven’t had the chance to try Shay & Blue fragrances. I’m sure it would be a great experience.
    I’m from the EU.

  • doveskylark says:

    Th plum and cyclamen notes intrigue me. I can imagine how they contribute the dewiness of this fragrance. I loved reading Gail’s review with the history and references to Brueghel and Dumas. I always like learning about history from reviews on this site.
    I haven’t tried anything from Shay & Blue, but I’ve heard raves about Black’s Club Leather.
    I live in the USA.

  • I must say that the combination of freesia, coconut, white chocolate with cacao, oud and musk is something that I would like to experience. I think it’s a strange and intriguing concoction. I live in the EU.

  • I visited the land of tulips (aka Holland) this winter and bought a lovely traditional tulip vase. I didn’t realize that tulip flowers have a scent – even though it is rare to actually smell it as the reviewer notes. I like the mentioned semi-gourmand effect – anything with cocunut and freesia and I am sold. I haven’t tried anything by this line yet. I live in the US.

  • What a beautiful review, the notes sounds just heavenly. The scent of tulips always reminded me of early spring; my grandma had red tulips that were surprisingly fragrant but bloomed only briefly. I haven’t tried anything from Shay & Blue yet although I’ve long wanted to try their Cucumber Almond. US. Thanks for the draw!

  • I love those almost-black tulips. So beautiful. I am intrigued by the black magic of cacao noir, coming into play in the perfume. I haven’t had the opportunity to try Shay & Blue. I am in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    I was surprised to find out that some tulips have a discernible smell! Then the note of snowdrops was listed, and there is a floral scent I have never experienced. So this article has me very interested to check it out. I am only familiar with the gourmand Shay and Blue Salt Caramel. — San Jose, California, USA

  • I squealed when I read the drydown notes! white chocolate, soft woods, cacao noir, coconut, dark oud and musk sounds AMAZING!!! I actually don’t own any scents that have tulip i nthem. This sounds really, really pretty and I’ve added it to my wishlist. I’ve never owned or smelled anything from Shay and Blue.
    I live in the US.

  • I’ve never met a tulip with a smell so I’m interested in how this interpretation holds up. Thanks for an interesting review. USA.

  • I enjoyed reading about the myth of the black tulip. The photo of the Nightmare tulip is amazing – I hadn’t realized that there were no truly black tulips. I thought that there were every color imaginable.
    I am a sucker for blackberry/black raspberry scents and I love Framboise Noire. I live in SW Michigan and we have a Tulip Festival in the area every year! I would have to say that my favorite type of tulip are the ones that grow semi-wild on my property. My dad planted bulbs 30+ years ago and they still come up every year. I don’t know the name or type, but when they come up they make me think of him.
    Thank you for this amazing draw! The perfume sounds very interesting – i do have another scent that is called Black Tulip and I love it, and I would love to add this one to my collection.

  • I would like to thank everyone for reading and commenting. This was such an interesting article to put together an enjoyable fragrance to wear!