Review of Etoilegance Perfume by Alex Lee- “The Scent of Esxence-5 Years of Excellence” Contest Winner + Catch a Rising Star Draw

  

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I am a big fan of the singing competition American Idol. The thing I enjoy most about watching it through the course of a season is seeing a person show up at auditions with raw talent and through the process that is the American Idol contest watch that nascent talent blossom and shine. I also like at the end it is the audience who makes the choice as they will eventually turn the winner into a star. There is no such thing as “Perfume Idol” but at the recent Esxence 2013 exhibition in Milan we had the next best thing.

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Alex Lee

The organizing committee of Esxence invited young perfumers to submit a new creation to be named “The Scent of Esxence- 5 Years of Excellence”. All of the entries would be judged by a “Jury of Noses” to determine five finalists which would be judged by the attendees of Esxence over the course of the exhibition.  After all of this the entry called Etoilegance by Mane perfumer Alex Lee was named the winner. Because of the way the finalists were displayed, on ceramic blotters under bell jars, it wasn’t ideal and I ended up going and taking some strips to really get to know the finalists. When I did that Etoilegance was my favorite and I sprayed a bit on the back of my hand and I kept returning to it, to sniff, and wishing I had some to really wear. When I returned to the US I ran into Mr. Lee at an event and he kindly supplied me with some Etoilegance so I could have my wish. I have worn Etoilegance a half-dozen times now and am more impressed with it every time I wear it.

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Botanical Drawing of Sarcaulon Mossamedensis (Bushman's Flower)

As mentioned above Mr. Lee works at Mane and so he has access to their proprietary Jungle Essence ingredients. The Jungle Essence process is a supercritical fluid extraction which happens right where the ingredient is being harvested. This leads to some interesting subtleties in the notes isolated this way. The other thing Mr. Lee chose to do was to work with a brand new ingredient called Sarcocaulon Mossamedensis. This plant is from Namibia and is colloquially called the “Bushman’s Candle” because the waxy stems can be burned much like a candle. The essential oil from the flower has a characteristic reminiscent of smoky frankincense and Mr. Lee chose to use the Bushman’s Candle as the bright light at the core of Etoilegance as he surrounds it with a heady bouquet of opulent florals which are preceded by rum and followed by frankincense, patchouli and Mysore sandalwood.

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Monica Bellucci (Photo by Signe Vilstrup)

Etoilegance starts off with a burst of tangerine and bergamot before taking a deep swig of rum. This boozy opening is as fleeting as a shooting star and it leads to the appearance of the real star of the show. As the heart opens up the first impression is frankincense but there is a green living quality under the frankincense and that must be the Bushman’s Candle. Mr. Lee then layers on the heavy-hitter florals as iris, rose, jasmine, osmanthus, tagetes, and magnolia all form a tapestry of floral notes. There are floral tapestries made up of these same filaments but the inclusion of the Bushman’s Candle makes this seem different as the incense quality is fleshier. Real frankincense comes in to the tapestry to usher Etoilegance down to its base of patchouli and Mysore sandalwood. The quality of both the patchouli and Mysore sandalwood easily stand up to the decadently floral heart with a rich oriental decadence all their own.

Etoilegance has overnight longevity and above average sillage.

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An Etoile is Born

Mr. Lee has slowly but surely been taking all the steps necessary for a young artist on the road to becoming a master perfumer. Etoilegance is evidence that it is about to be his time to start composing on his own. I’m not sure how the other four finalists would have fared if I had the opportunity to wear them as much as I did Etoilegance; after having worn it multiple times this feels like the work of a perfume star in the making. I can’t wait to see what the first official composition from Mr. Lee is. The hardest thing about winning “Perfume Idol” is you have to keep up the quality, somehow I feel Mr. Lee is up to the task and we’ll look back on Etoilegance and realize an ‘etoile’ was born.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Etoilegance supplied by the perfumer Alex Lee.

Thanks to Alex Lee we have a very special draw. He has provided a 10mL sample of Etoilegance which will go to one winner. This draw is open to all readers worldwide. To be eligible we want you to leave a comment with encouraging words for Alex as he heads to Paris, from New York City, for the next phase of his career with Mane. The draw will end on May 1, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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49 comments

  • Good luck on your journey! I’m sure Paris will be very inspiring! What an opportunity!

  • So nice to see someone getting such recognition for doing something they love. Looking forward to future creations.

  • Apparently I misunderstood. I thought Mr Lee won phase one and was on his way to Paris for phase two of the contest. It has been made clear he WON!!!!! (I got caught up in the American Idol aspect I’m afraid.).

    So, I wish Mr. Lee good fortune as he advances to becoming a master perfumer.

    =O|

  • With inspiration around every Parisian corner, we suspect that your star will continue to rise ever higher, Mr. Lee!

  • Best of everything to you Alex, in all you do-and enjoy the City of Light! This is only the beginning for you and we know you’re ready…I only hope that Paris ready for YOU!

  • Janet in California says:

    Congratulations on Etoilegance, it sounds brilliant! Stay strong on your journey.

  • Follow your dreams and your nose Alex, looking forward to possibly smelling some great creations from you in the future. Congratulations on your current achievements!

  • It used to be difficult in France if you did not speak French well. I hope it had changed otherwise, If your French is not great, don’t worry, just smile and look mysterious…You are bound for success, I look forward to hearing your name more often. Most of all have fun on this journey.

  • Winners always have the courage to take risks, as you did, Alex, with your winning scent. Congratulations, and may there be many more!

  • Good luck in Paris! Always excited to see new ‘voices’ in our favorite industry. Also find Mane’s tactics and mission really interesting, so I will eagerly follow your progress!

    thanks for the draw!

  • Congratulations Mr. Lee. I’m sure you will feel in your element being in Paris. After all it’s not only the city of love, but also the city of fragrance. It’s bound to be inspiring. Good luck!

    Etoilegance sounds really great, can’t wait to have a try.

  • Congratulations and best of luck in Paris. Don’t get too caught up in work that you forget to soak up the city.

  • Congratulations and the best of luck, love and fortune on your journey!! Etoilegance sounds lovely and I am sure we will soon be amazed with new equally and greater creations!

  • Your journey to success is just beginning…
    Enjoy the ride! Best wishes and congratulations!
    We all look forward to your future creations.

  • best of luck and fortuitous adventures on your perfumed journey! I look forward to CafleureBon’s Profile on American Perfumers with your name on the heading one day in the near future~

  • just breathe says:

    Congrats, Alex and good luck :D!!!
    Thanks for the draw! I would love to try this perfume!

  • Mr. Lee, congratulations on having the moxie to use a brand-new material in your award-winning Etoilegance; I’m sure that this kind of fresh thinking and the courage of your convictions will stand you well in your career. And have a great time in Paris!!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i have been to your blog and it showed your passion..hope this passion stays with you as a professional perfumer

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    Wishing you a wonderful journey! While no doubt daunting, I’m sure the next phase will be full of excitement. Hoping you learn lots and have a great experience! Congratulations.

  • Congratulations, Alex, I will watch your rising star with keen interest. Your journey is just beginning and I wish you every success.

  • So lovely to see a whole new path opening up for Alex. I wish him luck, may he grab every opportunity along the way. There is nothing better than succeeding in a field you are passionate about.

    I do hope to someday smell this amazing sounding fragrance.

  • Alex, many blessings as you follow your heart, passion and nose. From the sounds of this review we all have much to look forward to from you. Best of Success to you.

  • Tomate Farcie says:

    Step 1′ find your local cafe where the locals will keep you grounded and most important laughing. I hope you speak French, it will make all of the difference

  • wefadetogray says:

    All the best in your journey from the apple of the world to the city of lights. You are moving from an urban icon to an icon of elegance and sophistication. I hope you take the best of both to continue creating amazing scents!

  • Alex speaks fluent French and was a student in Paris most prestigious fragrance school ISIPCA
    I interviewed him for Cafleurebon in 2010
    An American in Paris

  • Hey, if you can make it in New York, you an make it anywhere! Best of luck to you, Alex. Etoilegance sounds beautiful.

  • Mr. Lee, it sounds like you have a true fan in Mark Behnke. After reading his review of Etoilegance, I’m definitely intrigued in the fragrance, and looking forward to experiencing the fruits of your career. Best of luck to you! 🙂

  • Wishing you much success, Alex! Etoilegance sounds gorgeous. You must be very proud of your work!

  • Mary Carol says:

    Congratulations, Mr. Lee, and good luck to you in Paris. It is truly wonderful to be doing something you love. And there will be so much in Paris to experience and enjoy. So many things to inspire you! Etoilegance sound fabulous!

  • Bonne chance Alex! Je vous souhaite beaucoup de plaisir à explorer Paris et la douce France! Mille mercis pour cette merveilleuse création et pour ce généreux tirage!

  • How exciting to be able to go to Paris! Wishing you much luck and Congratulations on your win!!

  • Good luck to you in Paris and looking forward to seeing your name on more creations! Etiolegance sounds wonderful and I applaud your using a new ingredient.

  • I say you are in many ways at the best point in your career. So little to lose and so much yet to become real – you can take all the chances and all the risks necessary to take your creations into new terrain. You’ve already done this with Bushman’s candle and you also seem to respect what others have done – in your effort to study with Aftel and Yosh, for eg. Good luck on this journey.

  • How exciting to be creating wonderful fragrances as a career. I feel sure that Etoileelegance is just the beginning.

  • Congratulations on how far you’ve come, and best of luck with how far you’ll go. Enjoy the journey, that’s the best part! xo

  • Congratulations Alex Lee–Perfume Idol, and best wishes, mazel tov, and good luck! NYC is awesome and Paris is magical, this is such a great trajectory in a blossoming career. Hope you enjoy the journey, the fun stuff and the challenges, and look forward to whatever else you put out into the world!