Pierre Guillaume at Pitti Fragranze 2015: Contemplation Capsule Collection 2015, Collection Croisière Metal Hurlant, Fleur de Foudre, Rivages Noirs,Huitième Art Shermine

pierre guillaume  pitti fragranze 2015

Pierre Guillaume Preview for Pitti Fragranze 2015

No secret that Pierre Guillaume is one of my most cherished friends in fragrance. His body of work is the definition of Independent perfumery at its most creative and prolific. Pierre will be presenting this year’s official launches at Pitti Fragranze September 11-13, 2015: the the three latest fragrances of the Collection Croisière (which clearly is not a summer beach collection and meant for year round wearing as now there are nine); Entre Ciel et Mer, Paris-Seychelles, Jangala, Long-Courrier, Mojito Chypre),  the new Métal Hurlant, Fleur de Foudre and Rivages Noirs. In addition, Pierre will debut Shermine, the 13th offering of the Huitième Art collection.  He will present a capsule collection that is created as a “tease” of upcoming fragrances (not available for sale) and also as a way to foster dialogue between visitors.

The two prototypes of the Contemplation 15 Capsule Collection are animal scents, LUMIÈRE FAUVE (a tribute to the 2007 L’Ombre Fauve) and LEATHERMORE.

leathermore pierre guillaume

LEATHERMORE: More than leather: a hybrid accord exploring the concept of “vegetal leather”, obtained by tanning hides with vegetal extracts of oak, sweet chestnut, acacia, mimosa or rhubarb… With LEATHERMORE, Pierre Guillaume imagines the scent of a piece of leather steeped in vegetal sap, green, aqueous and floral. Cardamom, cumin, pink pepper and ginger electrify this “animal sap”, leather blending with guaiac wood, incense and musks. Notes:  Spices, sap accord (a green, aqueous vegetal note), leather, incense, guaiac wood, musks.

lumiere fauve pierre guillaume capsule colllection 2015

LUMIÈRE FAUVE:In 2007, Pierre Guillaume composed the darkly magnetic L’Ombre Fauve, a musky, animalic woody amber. Lumière Fauve is based on African stone resinoid – the most complex and challenging form of this semi-fossilized, mineral and organic ingredient – the composition is brightened with an accord of ylang-ylang and black Moroccan honey (mountain fir honey) spiked with cinnamon, clove and angelica root… In the heart and base, the animalic notes are tempered by cocoa, blond tobacco and leather. Notes:Spices, African stone resinoid, ylang-ylang, black Moroccan honey, tobacco, cocoa, leather, animalic musks. (I WANT THIS!!!)

 Collection Croisière

metal hurlant

 Metal Hurlant: This was a favorite of mine at Esxence. It stirred memoires of my 19 year old self riding on the back of a Harley my arms encircling my boyfriend's waist as he drove 50 miles from city highways to the mountains. The look on my mom's face when we she saw me was priceless.  I remember the scent of his neck, the smell of diesel and leather like it was yesterday.

According to Pierre he was inspired by a "A motorcycle trip across the USA on the legendary Route 66. With Métal Hurlant (“Howling Metal”), ride a Harley at full throttle on an asphalt ribbon. The smell of glinting chromes, a fresh paint job, a steel bodywork and rubber tires blend with gasoline and leather, whipped by the hot Arizona wind. This “aerodynamic” leather, electrified by animalic, sensuous musks, conjures a blond, bearded, tattooed biker smiling behind his Ray-Bans… Born to be wild!" Notes: Musk – Leather and Chrome – Gazoline.

foudre collection croisiere

Fleur de Foudre: The fragrance of the champaca flower captured just before a storm on an island in the Indian Ocean… The initial idea, simple and beautiful, was to capture the particular scent champaca flowers gives off just before a storm… To achieve this effect, a very special ingredient was needed. One that came as close as possible to the flower and that could evoke the utter delicacy of its fresh, floral, slightly fruity facets. An outstanding essence of white champaca blossom, obtained through low-temperature fractional distillation with its natural waxes removed, carries us off to Réunion Island. The electric, ozone-laced air just before the storm is conjured with vetiver, pepper and Aldemone©, a synthetic molecule that smells of wide-open spaces after a rainfall. A selection of slinky musks adds velvety smoothness to a base dominated by black tea absolute and Cashmeran. With Foudre (“Lightning”), Pierre Guillaume has created a textural, highly narrative woody floral: a wearable atmosphere. Aldémone – Champaca Blossom – Vetiver

rivages noirs collection croisiere

Rivages Noirs:With “Black Shores”, a spicy-woody composition, Pierre Guillaume invites us to sip single malt whisky on the deck of a boat anchored somewhere off the Mediterranean coastline, rocked by the waves of a quiet summer night. The warm, aromatic, bracing scent of Mediterranean cypress complements the aroma of whisky. Notes: Melon, ginger, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom offer a radiant opening to a woody ambery base dominated by cedar leaves slightly tinged with a dab of vanilla and oak moss. Ozone – Mediterranean Cypress – Whisky

huitieme art shermine perfume

Huitième Art Shermine: the idea was to create a powdery scent that both men and women would like, avoiding sugary or cosmetic notes.  So, Pierre Guillaume took a different approach and instead of  gourmand facets of Iris chose to blend Shermine using Argentinian Lemon and Guiac wood from Paraguy, which bring out the woody greenness with smoky, balsamic nuances. Notes: Argentinian Lemon, Iris Fur Accord and Guaiac wood.

 Via Pierre Guillaume

Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Which of the new introductions appeal to you, please leave a comment

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14 comments

  • I love so many of Parfumerie Generale perfumes (coze and Aomossi) and Pour Monsieur, Myhrriad too. I think Metal Hurlant and LEATHERMORE sound perfect for fall He is SO handsome

  • When I saw the brown bottle, I had a feeling Pierre took the same approach to another perfume category that he took to acquatic category, i.e. creating a perfume that fits in the category but avoid the typical notes that are found in most perfumes in that particular category

  • Oooooooolala these all sound so mysterious, dark and somewhat dangerous even the Fleur de Foudre “The fragrance of the champaca flower captured just before a storm on an island in the Indian Ocean…

  • Rivages Noirs would be one I’d give a go to or the Metal Hurlant. The latter more for the nostalgic rebel tones more than the notes themselves. Where do you draw the line?

  • All of them! Though I have fallen behind on my Pierre Guillaume fragrances, these tempt me just as much as his others! LUMIÈRE FAUVE seems most up my alley though. 🙂

  • Lumiere Fauve sounds like a yummy concoction! And Fleur de Foudre is an intriguing concept–flowers before a storm. I like the idea! I own and love so many perfumes, but if I had to pick one favorite it would be PG’s L’Oiseau de Nuit.

  • Leathermore, Métal Hurlant, Rivages noire sound really great. Leather and single malt whiskey are all I need! 😉
    I’m a big fan of Parfumerie Générale, but less of the Huitième Art collection; maybe Shermine will change my mind…..?! 😉

  • Wow – these all sound great! I’m a little apprehensive about the cumin in Leathermore (sometimes I can handle it, sometimes I can’t), though the name is just great. The review of Métal Hurlant sounds fantastic, but I think Lumière Fauve just edges it out slightly to be the one at the top on my list. I’ll have to keep my eye out for these…