Salvatore Dali: Premonition of Civil War
Some of us hear the sound of a thousand hoofbeats … and experience tells us that it is not the sound of zebras nor antelopes nor giraffes. It is the stampede of horses we expected; for perfume lovers worldwide…the cavalry is here. And they are organized. They have declared war on our 8th art.
As an avid advocate of fine fragrance, I have raised this subject over and over in my writings for other magazines, during the past 4 year. I have emailed, discussed and urged industry leaders in fine fragrance, (both natural and blended) to collaborate, get organized and FIGHT this growing mass hysteria to ban perfumes in the USA and Canada. It is spreading like an epidemic…soon it will reach Europe. It is a plague of ignorance. Don't believe me? Type in perfume ban on Google… My throat caught at 15 pages… I was afraid to continue…
Today is a special day for Cafleurebon; it is our 3rd month anniversary and we thank over 5,500 unique visitors who read us. We would like our magazine to continue to grow, but unless this issue is adressed we may not be celebrating in a few years.
After my article "Perfume…The New Second Hand Smoke?" appeared on March 23, 2010
http://www.cafleurebon.com/perfume-the-new-second-hand-smoke/ (ironically written as we celebrate our three month anniversary) hundreds of new anti-fragrance articles and blog posts have appeared. I put out an open letter to twenty perfumers on this subject. Here are the thoughts of five perfumers about the future of fine fragrance.
Photo: Courtesy of Michel Roudnitska
"If the fragrance industry truly desires to get through the serious crisis it is facing, which is economic, ecological and ethical, it must be prepared to introduce new ethical principles on four levels:
1. Supplying raw materials by preserving the biodiversity and developing fair trade and commerce with indigenous people involved in fragrance
2. Recognition and acknowledgment of the true perfumers who are behind the brand and the establishment of “copyright” for the composer of perfume (as in all other arts)
3. Respect for consumers by providing clear and factual information pertaining to the quality and to the risks of the raw materials used in the compositions and the same time defending past and present -fragrant masterpieces against excessive regulations of IFRA
4. There must be a reduction of the number of “clone” perfumes launched each year, cluttering the market. Fine fragrance must concentrate and focus on true creative and qualitative creations with an authentic approach bringing real meaning and spiritual value to perfumery "- Michel Roudnitska, Art-et-Parfum
Photo: Courtesty of Vero Kern
"Natural aroma chemicals are chemicals.
Synthetic aroma chemicals are also chemicals.
Chemicals are chemicals and the sense of smell and the sense of taste are both chemical senses.
Synthetic versus naturals in perfume is here not the question! In my opinion it’s the huge quantity in the use of Aroma Chemicals in cleaning products, cosmetics, food and medicines. The problem is very complex and I vote for competent information for empowered consumers spread by sophisticated journalists and scientists.
For those who are seriously interested in the topic, I strongly recommend the excellent article written by Helen Greenwood in the Sydney Morning Herald on June 12, 2008.
You will also find perfectly informing perfume articles in Time magazine. "
Photo: Courtesy of Laurie Erickson
"I hope solutions to these issues will be found through moderation and education. People need to learn how to apply scent with more consideration to those around them and how to alternate fragrance so they don’t unknowingly overdose scents they wear frequently. People also need to learn that they have more options than the perfumes they find at department stores and to understand how much fragrance exposure comes from functional products. Both naturals and synthetics may be lost if a campaign of fear and misinformation leads to fragrance bans. We need less misinformation and more education, science, and cooperation . – Laurie Erickson, Sonoma Scent Studio
Photo Courtesy of Liz Zorn
" We live in a world where Fine Perfume is lumped into the same category as products having little or nothing to do with perfumery, other than the fact that they give off scent. Most of this is so far removed from where I am as a perfumer, I can hardly relate. My day to day involves a 100% hands on operation, from formulating, to blending to batching and bottling. In my boutique I answer the same questions over and over, yet am always excited to see folks come through the door. There is something magical about the Artistry of Scent. I wish more people really GOT IT, and were able to experience perfumery as the beautiful art form that it is."- Liz Zorn, Soivohle
Photo: Courtesy of Gerlad Ghislain
"The matter is the desire of a society without any risks. Perfumery is an art which must not lose it soul, it essential purpose that is to create emotions. The hygienist reign attempts to kill it by wreathing it. What will people wear tomorrow? A glimpse of mineral water maybe…it's pathetic. I will always fight against a sanitized and completely clean world where nothing would disturb the rest. The only thing I want to say is that I have an inmense respect for humans and nature, my intention is not to intoxicate people but to make them dream, to tell stories, to move them deeply with scents. Our fragrances are created with care for people." Gerald Ghislain, Histoires de Parfums
No gimmicks, no giveaways, no joke.
– Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
Editor's Note: Cafleurebon is a member of The Natural Perfumer's Guild, but I cannot share certain information, but Anya McCoy, the Guild President has addressed her concerns with fellow members…