Perfume Reviews: Parfums de Marly Arabian Breeds (Habdan, Oajan, Kuhuyan & Hamdani) + Kentucky Derby Draw

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds logo

In 2013, Parfums de Marly released a collection of perfumes highlighting purebred Arabian breeds using classic Middle Eastern perfume components as the symbolic bloodline uniting all four. Creative director Julien Sprecher guided talented perfumers in the creation  that further articulates Parfums de Marly’s fusion of niche perfumery and purebred horses. The Arabian breed is one of the oldest breeds known to man, with archaeological evidence dating back 4,500 years. Strong sound horses with superior stamina, Arabians are known for their endurance, agility and grace. King Louis XV was gifted eight Arabian horses by the King of Tunisia, and these were introduced into champion European bloodlines and raced for the court’s delight.

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds ChurchillDowns

From the Kentucky Derby Website

This weekend marks the 140th year of the annual Kentucky Derby.  Women don their fancy hats and celebrities, politicians and sport stars fill the stands at  Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky to watch the “most exciting two minutes in sports”, where 19 horses will run for the roses. Over the last week, I had my own personal “Perfumed Derby” and it was definitely a close race between worthy contenders.

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds Habdan

"Arabian Horse Equine Painting"

All horse images by Svetlana Novikova

Habdan is one of the five primary Arabian strains recognized by the Arabian Horse Association. Its glorious and noble breed’s heritage is fittingly captured in this woody spicy mélange. Top notes of inviting saffron and cool frankincense prance excitedly, yet gracefully, entering the starting gate. A passionate heart of agarwood and rose wants to break free and bolt; but perfumer Guillaume Flavigny bridled it with a lively apple note, adding a crisp lift to brighten the mukhallat formula (saffron, rose, amber and/or oud). The smooth finish of opoponax and amber is punctuated with the unusual note of maltol, adding a grain-like aroma to its sweetness, while balancing the oud and sassy rose. Hints of incense and flowers still surround a lingering fruity wood accord, as Habdan smoothly glides across the finish line. Sillage: good. Longevity: good.

Notes: Frankincense, saffron, apple, agarwood, rose, amber, maltol and opoponax

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds Oajan

"Arabian Horse 5"

The next to intrigue me was the spicy oriental mélange of Oajan, named for a village in the region where the breed originated, bordering Iran. Blending shadowy and sweet while exuding timeless grace, perfumer Shyamala Masondieu balanced each level of this composition’s development exquisitely. Osmanthus lends a delicately floral apricot aura to the opening, flanked by cinnamon, to add warm woodiness, and honey oozing heavy and golden. It trots steadily to the gate, puffing hot breath from its nostrils, as it shakes it silky mane. A resin lover’s paradise awaits in Oajan’s heart of labdanum fused with amber and benzoin, then brushed and rubbed down with davana. The dark booziness captures the animal’s strength and power, as the resins accent the powerful strides when a horse is truly airborne while in full gallop. The gourmand-tinged, very eastern dry down shows more of the Persian influence on the breed, while maintaining its intrinsic beauty and Arabian heritage with a delicate touch of oud. This leapt across the finish line in a cloud of crumbly resin dust and spiced musk, before trotting elegantly to the stables. Sillage: good.

Cinnamon, honey, osmanthus, benzoin, labdanum, amber, davana, patchouli, musk, vanilla and Tonka bean.Longevity: very good.

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds Kuhuyan

"Soulful Horse Painting"

Kuhuyan is named for horses bred for powerful frames and used as war steeds. Perfumer Alexandra Kosinski captured its impressive presence and truly charmed the heart of a rearing stallion. The unlikely opening of verdant, watery violet leaves adds a keen freshness to jasmine’s indolic aroma; as it shuffles gently into the starting gate. Though it may have seemed restrained at the start, the second the gates drop; it’s off in an intense burst of leather and heliotrope, cantering in waves of dry vanillic floral notes underpinned with the soft supple aroma of well-worn tack. Kuhuyan paces itself, not expending too much speed, galloping steadily and is not always among the frontrunners. It saves its final dynamic burst for a photo finish of lingering oud smoke, glowing amber and tonka bean’s coumarin-rich haze as it stretches its neck, hoping to cross the line first. This particular breed is a “coming up on the outside to take the lead” type of perfume, with its subtle floral sophistication giving way to a pleasing exotic and woody sweet aroma that lasts for hours and hours. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.

Notes: Violet leaves, jasmine, leather, heliotrope, agarwood, amber and Tonka bean

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds Hamdani

"Arabian Horse #3"

The last breed in the line, Hamdani, is inspired by one Europeans discovered crossing Arabia during the Crusades and one of the five primary strains. This strong full-spirited creature is the perfectly distilled by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin in a very intense, almost brutal, fragrance that is all business and full of primal power. It marches steadfastly to the gate with heavy hooves and loud snorts, as camphorated myrrh and intensely cold incense reflect its sinewy strength in a lithe muscled frame. Leaping forward as the barricade falls, an intense burst of clove adds fiery impetus to the heavier honeyed thickness and dark guaiac wood in its heart, as this plows through the group jostling for a place among the pack with eyes always focused on the line. The intense opening and spiced wood and sweet earthy heart are as noble and graceful in bearing as this breed, culminating in an accord of oud, darkened and deepened with styrax, cypriol and benzoin. The ultimate dry down of leather, tobacco and sandalwood balances the ancient and mysterious intensity with robust, yet refined, elegance as it thunders across the finish line, ahead of the rest, to win by a full length. Running harder longer and faster than the others, while constantly exuding grace and strength without losing one iota of raw fury through domestication, Hamdani is whom I personally would drape with a blanket of roses, and declare the ultimate winner of my week-long Derby. Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.

Notes: Myrrh, frankincense, guaiac wood, agarwood, honey, clove, benzoin, leather DM, Cypriol (papyrus), sandalwood, tobacco absolute and styrax

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Parfums de Marly viaThe Fragrance Group (US Distribution). Parfums de Marly Arabian Breeds are available for purchase in 125 ml (4.2 oz.) EDP in the US at Osswald NYC and at select major metropolitan Nordstrom stores.

John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor

cafleurebon ParfumsDeMarly ArabianBreeds flacons

Thanks to the generosity of The Fragrance Group and Parfums de Marly, we have one 100 ml bottle ($275 US) of any of the Arabian Breed EDPs to give away to one worldwide reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment stating which of the four above from Parfums de Marly Arabian Collection you would choose, and if you will be watching the Kentucky Derby or name your favorite horse. Draw will end May 5th, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Note: Click here to read our Parfums de Marly Galloway review and here to read our reviews and impressions of several others in the line including.Meliora and Safanad.

 

 

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70 comments

  • christina loome says:

    I’d love a bottle of Oajan. I’ll be.watching the derby, haven’t missed it in 16 years!

  • Great reviews! But the most intriguing to me is Kuhuyan and it’s my choice.
    I’ve never been on a horse race but someday I will.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • ringthing says:

    Goodness, what a fabulous draw! Habdan hits on all my favorite notes like saffron, frankincense, agarwood & opoponax but I like the sound of the apple and the drydown. I usually watch the Derby for the pageantry. My all time favorite horse story is Seabiscuit.

  • Jackie b says:

    This review left me breathless, as if I had been cheering my favourite at the races!
    We do not get the Derby here, but but follow the Melbourne Cup.
    My favourite horse here is Black Caviar. Magnificent horse!
    I would love to win Kuhuyan

  • My choice would be Oajan. It sounds like an exquisite oriental. I probably won’t be watching the Derby this year. But I’d love to be there in person someday.

    Thanks for the draw.

  • What a nice reading and what a fabulous draw! I would go for Oajan! I love gourmands! I’ve never been on a horse race, but I think it would be really interesting to change that 🙂

  • Wow. How generous. Habdan sounds amazing. I will be watching the race but don’t know much about the horses. I live in the U.S. Thanks!

  • Your review of Kuhuyan and the wonderful wood notes has really piqued my interest, so that is what I would choose. I’ve never been to the race tracks before, and won’t be watching, but have to say how amazing the horse art you selected is.

  • Habadan sounds interesting. I may watch the derby. I have been to 2 racetracks. Thanks for the draw

  • Oajan is the one calling out to me. I will try to go to Sissy’s in Dallas, a southern cooking restaurant that has a Derby watch party.

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    I’ll love to win Hamdani, looks like the kind of fragrances I enjoy. My favorite horse for the Derby is California Chrome.
    Thanks for the awesome draw.

  • Thank you! This is great! I am in the US. I’m not sure if I’ll be watching the derby, but out of these wonderful fragrances, I would choose Habdan.

  • OMG these all sound divine, but I must go with my gut instinct that tells me that Habdan would be right up my alley…..keeping my fingers crossed. I am in the US. Generally do not watch the Kentucky Derby, but love horses especially Arabian horses.

  • I’d love to try spicy Oajan, but they all sound as beautiful as the blooded horses they take their inspiration from. I have attended the Derby twice with my Dad, a real fan. I am in the US.

  • What a wonderful review John, such masterful phrasing of the equine theme! You made them all sound fabulous, but I would have to choose Oajan.

    I love horses and I ALWAYS watch the Derby, only missed it twice since 1969 and those were due to circumstances beyond my control. I will be rooting for California Chrome. 🙂

  • Michael S says:

    I would go with Oajan, it sounds like an amazing amber!

    I am not much for watching horse races, though I enjoy horses.

  • As a horse lover, I can’t resist Marly’s fragrances! I always watch big races, if I can, I would go to the race course and watch them! I’ll be backing Danza this year.
    I will choose Kuhuyan if I’m luck enough to win this one.

  • I love the combination of horses and perfume. Amazone comes to mind, but these four are stunning! Hamdani is speaking to me and thank you for the generous draw!

  • Laurentiu says:

    Oajan sounds so wonderful. The notes are delicious!

    I love horses, but I must admit that I do not watch horse races. Perhaps this is a concequence of me not watching tv at all.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Oajan would be my choice, sounds intriguing. I don’t watch the races but I love horses and their smell.

  • They all sound fabulous but I guess I’ll pick Hamdani at the moment. I like to watch the derby for all the hats. I love the horses too but the actual event is rather brief. Blink and you’ll miss it.

  • I love horses for their beauty and grace but I don’t watch horse races. I love Arabian horses for they are exceptionally graceful creatures.
    Oajan would be my choice for it is deeply oriental amber!
    I live in EU.

  • Elena C. says:

    Interesting concept! My favourite would be Oajan. The combination of honey and cinnamon is a killer for me!

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Years ago there was a race track near where I live and on Friday there were races. My father used to go every week and sometimes I would accompany him and of course make a few bets as well. The race track was closed 20 years ago and nowadays it’s used for festivals and rock concerts. Although I don’t have a name of a favorite horse I do prefer Arabian horses. They weren’t very good at the races, but they surely looked very elegant and refined.

    Thanks to Parfums de Marly and ÇaFleureBon for this lovely draw and thank you John for giving us a wonderful impression of the perfumes. My choice would be Oajan, which sounds delightful.

  • Nice concept and great draw — I would choose Hamdani. I’ll watch the race if I get the chance…

  • great draw ! i would like to win oajan or kuhuyan.
    my favorite horse is the one that belonged to my ex-boyfriend 🙂 she was beautiful. (the horse)

  • First. I love horses. Second, love the Kentucky Derby and will watch this Sunday. Poor hopportunity scratched. Hamdani or Oajan would be my choices

  • Beautiful horses, great draw!

    I would love to win Oajan, because its fragrance story is the best for that of my favorite horse in this derby, the beautiful Danza. I will watch her.

  • I’m in the US and would pick Oajan, were I to win. I’m going to try to watch the Derby once I finish my Biology final, and I’m liking Intense Holiday- though not necessarily to win. 😉

  • My choice would be Hamdani – frankincense , leather , honey , tobacco ….YUM !!
    I probably will not see the Kentucky Derby , but now that you have reminded me who knows ?
    Thank you for the most generous draw . Those matte black bottles are lovely and very apropos .

  • Gentiana says:

    What a beautiful concept. These perfumes sound really good.
    For me, Habdan sounds the most interesting, as a Middle Eastern fragrance with some European twist.
    I absolutely love horses, I am not sure I will look the Derby, but I will wear a funny hat these days and my favorite horse is Danza.
    I live in E.U.
    Thank you, CaFleureBon and Marly for the wonderful draw!

  • cdb73110 says:

    Thank you The Fragrance Group and Parfums de Marley for such an awesome draw. The fragrance that spoke to me the most is Oajan. Osmanthus is one of my favorite notes and I am completely a resins lover. All the notes seem like they would cross the finish line as a winner on my skin. Usually my aunt will cook a massive pot roast and we all gather and watch the Kentucky Derby. I really don’t have a particular horse but my relatives think they have the best bet code cracked. Ha ha. In the USA and thanks again. Great article John as always.

  • My favourite would be Oajan, the spicy oriental mélange, a brilliant combination of fhoney, cinnamon and vanilla. I think it’s marvelous ! I live in Europe, many thanks !

  • I would love to try Oajan…the notes sound delectable! I’d love to try them all though. I will mostly likely not see the Derby but one of my favorite books of all time was Seabiscuit by Laura Hillenbrand. I am in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • I love the sound of all of these!! What a generous draw.I would love to have a bottle of Habdan.Thank you so very much for the chance.

  • julesinrose says:

    These all sound absolutely stunning! Someone above said the reviews left them breathless & I agree! Hard to choose, but I love the traditional mukhallat combo and I’m always delighted to try a new take on it, so I would choose the Habdan if I was lucky enough to win this fabulous draw! Cheers! 🙂

  • I’m going with Hamdani because he/she seems a real beast! I don’t watch, or follow the Derby as I don’t really enjoy animals ‘performing’, but I do adore horses…

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I won’t be watching as we don’t have cable, but I WILL be having a mint julep when the day warms up and may even wear a big straw hat to the local farmers market! I think I’d love Oajan. Thank you for the draw.

  • Hamdani is my fav ! I am in US.

    I am not going to watch the Derby but I love horses. When I was a child I dreamt one day I will have a horse.

  • Jennifer B says:

    Oajan would be my choice although I had a hard time choosing a favorite! They all sound really beautiful! No horse race watching for me, but I do love to hear all the horses names, they are so creative. Thanks for the draw!

  • Hamdani sounds like me…more of a wintery me than a summery me, but still… 😉 I used to watch the Derby all the time when I was a kid; nowadays I’m too busy (and let’s be honest, it only lasts a couple of minutes, so even when I MEAN to watch I can miss it if I step away from the TV!). But I still remember Seattle Slew from back in the day, and since Seattle’s home, that is historically my favorite race horse! I live in the U.S.

  • I’m in the boat of those that prefer Oajan. Those notes sound absolutely fabulous all together! Very oriental and very luxurious! Thanks for the draw!

  • Habdan for me. What a great draw. I’m horse crazy in fact I have just sponsored a wild horse being re homed and therefore saved after a muster that sends many to the meat works. My favorite horse is Pharlap, a NZ bred racehorse who was a great amazing stallion, champion like no other. His skeleton is at out national museum and I remember as a child being so impressed by it statue and power. Still impressed. Thank you

  • Barbara B says:

    Oajan would be my choice because of the cinnamon and honey.
    I will not be watching the Derby, but I’m sure Iwill see it on the news. I am in the Us.

  • I’d like to try Hamdani, I like the reference to ‘primal power’, can’t be wrong 🙂
    I won’t be watching the race no. When I did follow any horse race anyway, I’d listen on the radio, not watch on the telly.
    ty

  • Nie Yile says:

    I would love to try Habdan! 🙂

    I love horse racing, and would love to catch the Kentucky Derby if I were in the US. But sadly, I’m all the way at the other end of the globe. There’s loads of horse racing here though!

  • Oh, I love horses and the whole idea behind the Parfums de Marly line! My favorite are the pitch-black Friesians!
    If I win, I would like Hamdani.
    Than you for the fabulous draw!

  • many_worlds says:

    I’m most interested in Habdan, as I’m interested in the apple/rose combination. I’m from the southern US, and so I have an affinity to the derby. I love Hoppertunity’s name, but I am also charmed by We Miss Artie.

  • Ready for the derby, mint julips and hats…I think i’ll pull for General A Rod, as I am a yankees fan and odds are he is doped lol…
    As far as the frags go, I would like to try the Hamdani, sounds awesome. I am from the USA. Thank You

  • leathermountain says:

    I would like to win Hamdani, its sounding thrilling and intimidating in a familiar way: I won’t be watching the Kentucky Derby this year (maybe on DVR if I manage not to find out the result), but I did go to one horse race once, and I was shocked by the feeling of watching the pack round the bend. My companion commented, breathless, “so many horses, running, so fast!” and I was speechless.

  • Hamdani would be my pick. Leather and honey are a great mix for me. I will watch the Derby in remembrance of the years I lived in Tennessee where it was a huge deal and introduced me to horse racing.

  • I would love to win Habdan.And I will definitely be watching the Derby.Thanks for the amazing draw!

  • I’d choose Habdan, although Oajan is very tempting as well. I did watch the Derby; the horse I was rooting for finished 13th, I believe. Thank you for the drawing!

  • I would love to try Oajan or Hamdani. I did watch the Derby, but my horse did not win.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Habdan may appeal most to me while Kuhuyan is close second. btw, i am eyeing a Marly product Herod for a while. I dont watch Derby but the crowd is relly beautiful. I am in the US

  • Kim Morgan says:

    Habdan sounds like the perfect scent for me, but Kuhuyan sounds compelling, also. I miss the Derby every year — the races aren’t for me, although I’ve been a horse lover all my life.

  • Holly F. says:

    Everything about Oajan sounds perfect to me, and that is the one I would be so thrilled to experience, as I feel it calls to me! I don’t know much about the Kentucky derby, but one of my strongest scent memories is tied in with horseback riding I did as a child- the unforgettable aromas of the tack room. I’m in the U.S Thanks so much for the draw!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I’d like to try the cinnamon-ginger-honey of Oajan. I was rooting for California Chrome. Woo-hoo! Woo-hoo!

  • Ooo! Thank you for this draw! My choice will be Hamdani. Sounds just right to my nose. Horses are a rare thing here in my country but I do think that they are absolutely stunning animals.

  • Wow! Thank you for the reviews, draw, and art!
    Hamdani and Habdan appeal to me the most. I would choose the ‘winner’ of this piece–Hamdani.
    I mostly watch the hats from derby coverage. Horses are such beautiful creatures but I tend to enjoy them at a slower pace even though they’re built for speed and grace.

  • Interesting story behind these creations and the house. I have tried some of their creations previously but not particually these Arabian inspired scents. All sound very exciting and intriguing, but if I had to choose one it would have to be Hamdani. I did watch the Derby

    USA

  • I think horses are wonderful animals but I have never been in a horse race….If I win , I would choose Kuhuyan.

  • Aaron J. says:

    I would love to try Hamdani!!! Thank you so much! Oh, and was rooting for California Chrome in the derby, did me proud

  • Thank you so much. Should I be chosen I would like Kuhuyan. I do so like the Derby. It reminds me of my early times in England.

  • I love horse races. Will watch derby. Very Victorian. I would choose Oajan.
    USA thanks