Named for the fiery phoenix of legend that meets its destruction head-on and arises renewed from its own pyre, Phoenicia Perfumes lives up to its name with fragrances that are the embodiment of its “No Boundaries ~ No Limitations” motto. Since 2012, Perfumer and owner David Falsberg has created a small, but mighty catalog of scents that show his versatility as an artist, working with such materials as skunk musk in Far NWest and capturing such avant-garde aromas as healing in a hospital from surgery with Skin Graft his debut scent.. 2013 was a year filled with interesting new releases and multiple accolades and awards from the perfume community. Many of our readers will know him as a regular ÇaFleureBon contributor, authoring The Perfumer’s Workshop series on topics such as tinctures, enfleurage and hydro-distillation.

David Falsberg, himself a metaphorical phoenix surviving and living with Stevens Johnson Syndrome and rising from an induced coma to eventually burn with fierce and fragrant flames, found that while he was sightless for a year his sense of smell was intensely magnified. This keener attenuation to smells, what David calls his nose going “alpha dog”, helped to guide him through that spiritual and very real darkness by following the light that led him to perfumery. Each of Phoenicia Perfume I have tried comes across as very real and raw, embracing a modern, niche aesthetic with insightful and unique combinations. His vast knowledge of raw ingredients and implementation of his understanding of the intricate chemistry behind perfumery is evident from the moment the atomizer is pressed.

Arabian Coffee by Richard Young

Oud, once almost unknown in Western Perfumery found its way into the market  in the mid 2000s and brought words like attar and muhkallat into ourlexicon. Unfortunately, most "Oud" fragrance offer scant drops of the actual divine wood. David’s response to this no truth in marketing was to present REALOUD to present the REAL DEAL. Its name says it all. Created with all-natural essences around oud wood extracts from both India and Laos, these precious oils were aged to maturity in handmade clay pots. Following  an Eastern approach to perfumery, the very expensive oud he uses is  framed with a narcotic and deeply sensual rose before being lightly rolled in soft spices, accenting both the  warmth and deep booziness found lurking in the pungeant aroma of the tree’s inner bark. Coming to rest on a bed of intense  greens infused with downright "dirty" musks, REALOUD rises from the skin wafting tendrils of smoke, like oud smoldering on glowing coals, and layers a primordial animal magnetism with an ancient and reverent sacredness.

This perfume is unapologetically incensey, wantonly woody and absolutely magnificent in its ferocity while exuding an oriental mystique. It should be noted here that it was the smell of incense, oud in particular, which began the quickening of the perfumer’s sense of smell and led to his fragrant epiphany and subsequent journey. Throughout its development and impressive longevity, my nose was often pressed to my wrist, as I sighed with utter pleasure. This western perfume, inspired by centuries of eastern craftsmanship, tames this polarizing note, without breaking its wild spirit, and has it purring deeply and contentedly, radiating power and strength without being threatening. Sillage: above average. Longevity: excellent.

Notes: Hindi oud, Laotian oud, Bulgarian red roses, ruh khus (vetiver attar), classic spices & animalics.

Theo Dapore

Paying tribute to the humble honeybee and all it does to keep flowers blooming and nature running smoothly, Rucher Fleuri (Flowery Beehive) incorporates a more classic perfume structure that blends heady flowers with honey and hay anchored by golden warmth, creamy wood and a voluptuous captivating musk. An 80% natural EDP, this begins green and airy with a puff of aldehydes lifting and expanding the resinous density of galbanum and augmenting the heavenly aroma of honey, as it drips from beeswax, retaining hints of pollen. The addition of Bulgarian geranium (zdravetz) adds a breath of spice and an herbaceous underpinning to the blooms, lending a bit more complexity to its floral theme without being frivolous or too feminine. I am captivated by the way this layers so many powerful essences while remaining constantly buoyant and lasting much longer than I had ever expected. Much like a bumblebee, this perfume rises effortlessly and soars, despite all scientific and aerodynamic evidence to the contrary, that tells us neither should be able to do so. Sillage: very good. Longevity: above average.

Notes: Aldehydes, honey, galbanum, rose otto and absolute, white rose absolute, zdravetz, vanilla, sandalwood and civet.

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Phoenicia Perfumes.

John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor

Mic

Through the kindness and generosity of Phoenicia Perfumes, we have a 5 ml bottle of either perfume to give away to one reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying which perfume you would prefer to win, what draws you to that particular one and if you enjoy reading Perfumer's Workshop. Draw will end on April 12, 2014.

Editor's Note: Attending Sniffapalooza Spring Fling? Meet David at the EAU! (Emerging Artists Uncorked) Luncheon Sunday May 4, 2014 – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.