April 6, 2016
"Après de si ternes absences, parfumez le vent de mes nuits" (After such dreary absences perfume the winds of my Night).”-Charles Cros from Scherzo
Perris Monte Carlo Eau de Parfums
The house of Perris Monte Carlo was born when the Executive Vice President of Houbigant, Gian Luca Perris, and Houbigant Creative Director Elizabetta Perris realized that much of the perfume industry was focusing on branding and marketing, and not on the perfume itself. They established Perris Monte Carlo to bring perfumes to the market that are focused on classic, quality ingredients composed into elegant, luxurious fragrances. When Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen posted live from Esxence 2016 last week, that Perris Monte Carlo’s Rose de Taif Extrait is one of Finalists in the Art and Olfaction Awards 2016, I knew that it was time to revisit this house with the extrait version of the orignal Rose Taif, composed by de facto in house Italian perfumer Luca Maffei in collaboration with Gian Luca and Elisabetta.
Pierre Redoute Roses Flowers Rosa Reclinata Flore Multiplici Pink
What would perfumery be without the rose? The mother note, the note that all others lead themselves back to in some way or another – without the rose in all of its glory, there would exist no gate into that secret garden where all of the perfumed world resides. And yet, rose is also one of the first notes that some fragrance aficionados write off almost immediately as it is ubiquitous in perfumes. But without knowing this ingredient in a scent, you cannot truly appreciate the world of perfume. It would be similar to trying to learn to speak English without vowels.
And for me, rose scents are the final word on whether a house or perfumer can be trusted. A truly great rose perfume is an absolute statement of purpose and dedication to the art and craft of perfumery. And readers, I must say I may have come across one of these, if not THE best rose perfume I’ve ever tried, Perris Monte Carlo’s Rose de Taif Extrait.
Oriental Beauty with a Rose Basket by artist Nathaniel Sichel (1843-1907
Rose de Taif Extrait shows itself wonderfully in both the technical mastery and quality of its ingredients. It begins with a dewy and uplifting combination of lemon, geranium and nutmeg, and the immediate sensation is the underside of a rose petal – that slightly green and shy elegance that all roses possess. The opening of Rose de Taif is quiet, graceful and bright – this is an Extrait whose powerful statement comes not from percentages of perfume oil but from how well the ideas inherent in its composition are expressed. Perfumer Luca Maffei shows us not a rose perfume, but the rose itself.
Sarah Brightman Harem Tour 2004
The heart note is pure Rose de Taif – an Arabian essential oil from the city of Taif in Saudi Arabia, whose terroir is quite distinct and is one of the finest places for roses to be cultivated. And the heart of this fragrance immediately informs the wearer of this. The nutmeg undertones in the top notes are replaced by a dusky, spicy, but still very sheer and light darker rose. The heart of Rose de Taif is a rose of heat and shadow, not of vanity mirrors and powdered compacts. The choice of nutmeg spice at the start is an excellent one to lead the nose into this unexpected floral turn.
The drydown is simple and complimentary to the fragrance – Damask rose absolute and musk. Yet the use of absolutes makes the ending of Rose de Taif as complex and engaging as the opening was light and entrancing. Even as the scent leaves the skin it does so in waves and layers (well over 5 hours from application on mine). Rose de Taif has profound longevity and a very elegant, restrained sillage for an Extrait. This perfume can easily be worn by both men and women.
Painting Charmain Olivia
.Each note is deeply felt in this fragrance, but weighted as lightly as helium throughout. Rose de Taif extrait is not just a fragrance; it is the summoning of a shimmering, radiant and ghostly rose to inhabit the skin, and should not be missed. This is extraordinary perfumery from a dedicated perfumer and passionate house.
Notes: lemon, nutmeg, geranium, Rose de Taif, Damask rose absolute, musk.
Pam Barr, Senior Contributor
Michelyn Camen Art Director and theme
Rose de Taif extrait (via Perris Montecarlo)
Thanks to the Generosity of Perris Montecarlo, we have a 50 ml bottle for a registered reader in the USA, Canada and EU. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Rose de Taif, if you have tried any Perris Monte Carlo perfumes before and where you live. Draw closes 4/9/2016
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume