Francois Henin owner of Jovoy Paris
Jovoy is the destination for luxury, niche fragrances in Paris. Owner and visionary Francois Henin set out with the purpose of acquiring the brand (once successfully catering for the wealthy men and women of 1920's Paris) and relaunching it as a kind of gallery space where niche perfume houses are given due credit for their craftsmanship and dedication to creating olfactory masterpieces.
Jovoy Paris Boutique
Alongside other exclusive brands, Jovoy has released it's own fragrances. When the house was first established in the roaring twenties, it produced vibrant, modern scents for those who wanted to celebrate the freedom of the era. Today, it is much the same, these are perfumes for modern people, the statement is about 'the now'. The line carries a definite nod to past glory days, such as the lipstick smeared Rouge Assassin, however, the fragrances are also thoroughly contemporary.
Henri Rousseau The Dream
L'Arbre de la Connaissance is a sumptuously green fig scent, created in 2011 alongside perfumer Marc Fanton d'Andon (Robertet). Inspired by the sacred Bodhi Tree of India, it is said that Buddha found enlightenment through meditation under it's bows. Using notes of fresh green leaves and lemon, fig flesh, fig wood, patchouli and sandalwood, one can very much picture a shaded tropical arbor, of the kind in a Henri Rousseau painting…
Woman with an Umbrella in an Exotic Forest
The first impression is one of enormous green leaves, shiny and supple, being plucked one by one from the boughs and crunched with strong fingers. It is a wholly immersive, textural experience, L'Arbre de la Connaissance is so powerfully sharp and green in its first breath that I can practically hear the snap of twigs and feel the waxy leaves splitting between my palms. There are slight hints of drier woodiness on the periphery but the opening statement of this perfume is all about sap, stringy bark and shredded greenery.
Woman walking in Exotic Forest-1905
Then plump figs start to form amid this astringent crush, bringing sweet juices to flood over the verdant debris. It is a joy to discover the perfume's soft, ripe heart after all the sharpness. Once the fig arrives it remains constant, changing slightly in texture throughout the development but never losing it's essential succulent character. Although L'Arbre de la Connaissance could not be described as an overly sweet and fruity fragrance, the use of fruit here is just enough to balance the extraordinary vibrance of its green beginnings. At first the fig is pale and crunchy, like cutting into a fruit that isn't quite ripe, but swiftly it becomes juicy, deeper in colour and more prevalent in the overall composition. Although I enjoy the scent from the beginning, I fall in love with it after about half an hour, when the wonderful lactonic qualities I have grown to associate with fig fragrances slowly emerge.
Tropical Forest with Monkeys c.1910
L'Arbre de la Connaissance is not a syrupy figgy pudding, but the softness that comes as the scent warms and flows more gently from the skin is delectable. The fig now turns almost to coconut, less like tropical suntan lotion and more like coconut macaroons, served with a glass of gently steaming almond milk. Nutty, lactonic, mildly sweet with just a blush of fruitiness. The green verdancy calming into smoother sandalwood, albeit soaked in lemon balm. This delightful ending is quite at odds with such bright beginnings, yet somehow works beautifully. As with all of Francois Henin's perfumes, it shows real progression, giving the scent a chance to tell it's story. I would highly recommend this perfume for those who enjoy a fig note, especially if you've found others to be rather overripe.
Disclosure- perfume from my own collection. All opinions my own. Art used by post French impressionist painter Henri Julien Felix Rousseau
Susie Baird, Contributor and editor of Epiphany
Thanks to Jovoy we have a worldwide draw for 50ml of L'Arbre de la Connaissance. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about this perfume, if you have a favoirte Jovoy fragrance and where you live. Draw closes February 1, 2015
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