CARON Or et Noir Ad 1950s

 Ever since Perfumer Ernest Daltroff first opened the doors at 10 rue de la Paix, Paris, Caron has been creating masterpieces of French perfumery that continue to enthrall fragrance aficiandos for over a century.  From the mysterious Narcisse Noir (1911) the androgynous Tabac Blond (1919), the iconic Nuit de Noel (1922)  to 20th century classics such as Parfum Sacré (1993) and Aimez Moi (1996) the House of CARON is legendary.  Yet, there are hidden gems that don't seem to get the recognition that they deserve.  One of these liquid jewels is the fountain fragrance Or et Noir (Gold and Black).  It was composed in 1949 by Michel Moretti who became the in house perfumer after Ernest Daltroff fled Nazi Occupied France for the safe haven of America. Or et Noir is very much a product of that era -a fierce, yet beautiful rose that grew out of the ashes  and rubble of the Second World War.

Clearing Rubble Hamburg Germany 1950

 

After the end of World War II and years of heavy bombing, the European countries began to rebuild their shattered cities.  Unlike the classic architecture of centuries past, this newly created  landscape was modern and was comprised of steel and glass.  Partly because of the need to rebuild quickly, and in many cases due to available materials, these new structures were bold, stark and often provided function over form.  Although beautiful in their own way, many could be cold, removed, distant and aloof.   But in time, as the cities began to reform and the shell shocked existence began to make way for the regeneration of green space, the beauty, though modern and different, began to reveal itself again.  It was a new world, a new modern sensibility and a new way of living.

 1950s Cologne German Architecture

Or et Noir reminds me of this new world and the vigorous determination of that era.  The first blast of Or et Noir comes with a sharp citrus that's slightly metallic.  The rose feels like it's being held captive behind these steely bars of citrus and geranium.  To me, this opening is utterly fascinating as it's cool, removed and completely in charge.  There's a fierce boldness and a dogged determination about it that belies most rose fragrances.  It's rather ozonic and when smelled it's like iron hitting the back of your throat.  But that steely determination starts to break down slowly as the rose starts to warm and Or et Noir gradually lets its guard down.  But like a city, once order starts to overtake chaos and destruction, the beauty that was once lost starts to bloom again.

Actress Lauren Bacall 1945 Photo John Rawlings

 After a good long time in which you don't think the fragrance will likely develop further, Or et Noir begins to open and that metallic edge disappears to reveal a softer beauty edged with the unmistakable dryness of the oakmoss, a touch of incense and a light creaminess which is distinctive to Caron fragrances, something that many call "Caronade".  Or et Noir, as fierce as it is in the beginning, tears down its defenses like it's finally going to allow itself to relax.  Don't think that Or et Noir becomes demure. Instead, it retains an androgynous smoky heft making it bold, serious and ever in charge.

In a 2011 interview Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief asked Romain Ales, President des Parfums CARON what inspired Or et Noir. M. Ales wrote:  "Or Et Noir is a complex chypree fragrance with top notes of Antatolia Rose and geranium, enhanced by lilac, carnation and oak moss …that when created, marked the return of opulence without ostentation, to help forget the dark years of deprivation."  "Opulence without ostentation"…is the perfect descriptor for this lesser known Caron gem.  Or et Noir is a rose beauty that has classic sensibilities, but is truly modern and timely for the 21st Century.

— Steven Lindquist, Sr. Contributor and Editor of The Scented Hound

Disclosure: Sample received from CARON

Through the generosity of Diane Haska the Caron Ambassador at  the Caron  New York  Boutique located at  715 Lexington Ave (entrance on 58 st) on the 3rd floor , CARON is graciously offering one CaFleureBon USA reader a 7.5 ml hand poured flacon of Or et Noir. Please enter a comment about  why you would like to win based on my review of Caron Or et Noir and your favorite Caron Paris fragrances. Draw closes 8/11/2014.

We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.