Perfume Review: Caron Paris En Avion + Celebrating Amelia Earhart Day July 24, 2014 Fountain Fragrance Draw

  Suffragettes

Suffragettes, 1920s

It was 77 years ago on July 2, 1937 that famed aviator, Amelia Earhart disappeared without a trace somewhere in the south Pacific as she attempted to be the first female pilot to fly solo around the world.  Her shocking disappearance is still regarded as one of the great 20th Century mysteries.  But before I get too far ahead of myself, let's go back to the beginning of the turn of the century.  The Victorian Era was ending and inventions like the automobile began to open up the world.  Women were no longer allowing to be treated like second class citizens and through the Suffragette movement eventually won the right to vote.  As part of this new world, the hemlines were lifted and the mood lightened and the woman of the 1920s emerged.  When we think of the 1920s, we think of the ubiquitous "Flapper."  But what allowed for that sexy, fun and flirty persona also allowed for the rise of women of adventure who took charge of their own lives by living exactly as they wanted.

vintage Caron En Avion ad and aviator amelia earhart

Vintage Caron En Avion ad and Amelia Earhart

It was during this period that Amelia Earhart first began to fly; 1920 to be exact. Charles Lindbergh completed his famous flight across the Atlantic in 1932  and  five years  to the day, Amelia Earhart followed suit  and became the first female to  complete this momentous trek.  As a result, she became a national hero and an international star.   Today, when we think of women aviators of that period, most can only recall Amelia Earhart, but in fact, there was a large contingency of female aviators from around the globe.   As part of this influx of adventuresome and fearless women, in 1929, the 1st Woman's Air Derby (Will Rogers sarcastically named it the "Powder Puff Derby") took place with 20 competitors from around the world in a hard fought and perilous race across the United States from California to Ohio.

Caron Ernest Daltroff and his longtime partner Felicie Vanpouille

 It was also during this exciting period in history that the House of Caron began marketing fragrances to "modern women" of that era (Tabac Blonde composed in 1919 was Caron's homage to women's liberation). Founder and In House Perfumer Ernest Daltroff with his long time partner Felicie Vanpouille introduced En Avion (In Flight) in 1933 in celebration of the "modern women" in aviation, most famously Amelia Earhart.

AirDerbyPilots

  Air Derby Pilots

Aviation in the 1920s was a down and dirty business.  Flying was fraught with danger and it wasn't for the weak of spirit.  En Avion captures this breed of adventuresome woman and their lust for life as it's a floral perfume that doesn't attempt to be demure.  En Avion opens with a waxy spiced neroli that feels thickened like the oil that lubricates the mechanics of the plane.  It's pretty, but it's contained under the weight of a leather aviator’s jacket that feels like it's absorbed all the grit from the leather seats to the wood that that makes up the plane's structure.  There's a weighty spice that appears as if during the journey a pit stop was made to a small landing field where the pilot rested for a while in a shed used for a an office filled with smoke and drink.  Eventually, En Avion settles down into  a beautiful jasmine floral as if the plane has ascended into the clouds and the journey becomes one between the heaven and earth.  En Avion has a tale to tell and through the rough journey, the danger and the barrage of skepticism from their male counterparts, the fragrance, like these fearless pilots, comes out as a beauty without making any excuses for conquering their dreams.

 

 

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Caron Les Fontaines Baccarat

En Avion is part of Caron's Haute Perfumerie line of fountain fragrances, which are the most coveted perfumes throughout their 110 year history. According to Romain Ales, President des Parfums CARON, in his interview with Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen, "Les Fontaines Baccarat: they are Caron’s haute couture fragrances, revived some of its finest compositions of extracts in their legendary Baccarat crystal fountains. With the act of filling the perfume bottle at the fountain, the special heritages of these perfumes live on. The perfumes are collected from the little bronze taps into the most wonderful bottles of all sizes, finished with an old world style golden braid".

AmeliaRoseEarhartjuly 24 is amelia earhart day

Amelia Rose Earhart (born 1983) and Amelia Mary Earhart (July 24, 1897- disappeared July 2, 1937)

The heyday of the early 20th Century female aviators ended with the Amelia Earhart disappearance in her quest to complete her around the world journey those many years ago, but her memory lives on through others. Most recently 31 year old Amelia Rose Earhart (no relation), who, on July 11, 2014, successfully flew solo around the world  symbolically finishing the flight that her name sake tragically failed to complete in 1937.  En Avion pays tribute to those female pilots of yesteryear, but it is timeless; a perfume for today's modern woman who makes her own way on her own terms.

Steven Lindquist, Contributor and Editor of The Scented Hound

Writer's and Editor's Notes: En Avion Listed Notes: neroli, "spicy orange accord", jasmine, opoponax (although we smell carnation, rose and the base notes definitely include amber). According to Michael Edwards Fragrances of The World 2014 (page 71), En Avion is a rich deep floral Oriental and is listed  along with Thierry Mugler Alien (2005) and Guerlain Nahema(1979). Richard Fraysee is the perfumer of the reformulation which Michelyn says smells strikingly close to her Mom's 1960's vintage En Avion Extrait.

Caron En Avion Pure Perfume fountain fragrance

To celebrate Amelia Earhart Day July 24,  to pay homage to those daring female aviators of yesteryear and to all women who continue to break barriers,  Diana Haska the Caron Ambassador at  the Caron  New York  Boutique located at  715 Lexington Ave (entrance on 58 st) on the 3rd floor , is  graciously offering one CaFleureBon USA reader a 7.5 ml handpoured flacon of En Avion. Please enter a comment about my review of Caron En Avion and your favorite Carons Paris fragrances. Draw closes  7/21/2014

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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37 comments

  • Monoatomic says:

    Interesting backstory, I wasn’t aware that there were other well-known women aviators at that time. My favorite Caron perfume is Tabac Blonde (though I haven’t tried En Avion). Thanks for the generous draw!

  • You had me at Waxy neroli contained under leather, journey between heaven and earth. Tabac Blonde has been a favorite of my for a very long time. My grandmother knew I would appreciate the beauty of its composition, and she was dead on. Loved learning of the Powder Puff Derby. Great post Steve. I tip my hat to these women. I am in the US

  • Excellent review. I thought this line summed up the era and the joie de vivre of these women:
    “But what allowed for that sexy, fun and flirty persona also allowed for the rise of women of adventure who took charge of their own lives by living exactly as they wanted.”

    My favorite Caron is Parfum Sacre.

  • I enjoyed reading about Amelia Earhart, whom I don’t know much about. I haven’t tried any of the Carons, embarrassingly enough. I’m in the US.

  • ringthing says:

    What a fascinating story. I didn’t realize there were so many other female aviators in the 20s, or that the Woman’s Air Derby existed. The suffrage movement, the Great War, aviation & auto racing, then Rosie the Riveter – women have been clawing their way through a man’s world for so long. No wonder we’re all so tired! My favorite Caron is Parfum Sacre & Caron Pour Homme; En Avion sounds textured and baroque, I’d love to smell it. I’m in the US.

  • I didn’t know about the other female pilots at the time! How wonderful. I have not tried any other Caron perfumes, but the story behind this one is great. I am in the US.

  • What a wonderful review! It’s a great history of the coming of a modern woman. Who knew that En Avion was developed to honor flight and the modern woman. The Caron boutique in NYC is fabulous, as is this draw!!

  • I have to say great review. Loved this part: “En Avion opens with a waxy spiced neroli that feels thickened like the oil that lubricates the mechanics of the plane.  It’s pretty, but it’s contained under the weight of a leather aviator’s jacket that feels like it’s absorbed all the grit from the leather seats to the wood that that makes up the plane’s structure.”
    So true. En avion has lots of personality and twists and turns.

    I adore my Caron fragrances and En avion is my fav.

    Great draw. Thank you!

  • Love warm, orangey florientals (24 Faubourg, Sublime) and deep florientals like Nahema, but haven’t tried this yet.. Like these legendary aviatrixes, this doesn’t sound like a “powder puff” at all!

  • I didn’t know until reading the post that a namesake flew around the world just a week ago.
    Favorite Caron – Tabac Blond 🙂 usa

  • silvrolive says:

    It’s amazing when you can connect a scent not just to a location, but to an era! I loved learning about female aviators and this scent that celebrates them. I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • All this time I thought En Avion was a masculine scent! Thanks for setting me straight. It’s so curious that the idea of a woman flying a plane was at one time considered worthy of ridicule.

    I am in the US and my favorite Caron perfume is Acaciosa, also in the fountain collection. En Avion sounds lovely!

  • Please enter a comment about my review of Caron En Avion and your favorite Carons Paris fragrances.

    Thank you for introducing me to Les Fontaines. A hand decant adds an extra layer of magic to fragrance. It makes me think of the hands that work with great expertise to give the world the gift of beautiful fragrance.

    I have always loved Caron’s Pour un Homme on gentlemen and on ladies, too. It seems simple but has a lovely depth and feeling. How fitting that Caron’s En Avion pays tribute to the lady pilots from the early days of aviation. They deserve such a fragrant example of the perfumer’s art. I am in the US.

  • I’ve never heard of the Powder Puff Derby, but now I’ll have to do some Wikipedia research. My favorite Caron (and very favorite perfume) is Nuit de Noel. I’m in the US. Thanks for the drawing!

  • I thoroughly enjoy the history of both Caron and lady aviators
    My favorite Caron is poivre

  • I love the way you compared the notes to the sensations of flying. I have felt that way about fragrance before and I have to believe we fragrance lovers are just more attuned.

    My favorite fragrance by Caron is either Tabac Blond or Poivre.

    I would love a chance to win this generous draw.

  • très intéressant le mélange de l’histoire du monde avec une touche de fragrance…

  • I loved hearing that there were other female aviators with the same name! My favorite Caron is Tabac Blond and thanks for the draw!

  • I had assumed Amelia Rose Earhart was a relative when I read about her July 11th. I live in the US and my favorite Caron is my precious Nuit de Noel !!!

  • Your review made me rather desperate to try En Avion. (Waxy spiced neroli! Rich, deep floral oriental!) Also, I hadn’t heard about Amelia Rose Earhart and her successful flight; it makes me oddly relieved, as if some nagging pain had ceased. My favorite Caron so far of the few I’ve tried is Caron Pour Un Homme. Thanks for the review, and the draw!

  • Great review! It is fascinating to me that women of yesteryear wore much more gutsy perfumes than the simpering mainstreams of today. I would like to try this one. I once visited the Caron perfumery in NY and what a wonderful experience it was! I discovered Montaigne there, which is a favorite winter perfume for me. I llive in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • Nancy Knows says:

    I’ve always wanted to try this fragrance and I loved learning about the two Amelias. My favorite Caron is Parfum Sacree. People used to say Caron was for duchesses and Guerlain for mistresses; I love that this review presents an entirely different view of what women should be. In the U.S.

  • carole macleod says:

    I am in Canada, and not eligible-i wanted to say that Caron chose the perfect Ambassador for its house when they chose Diane. She is a lovely person!

    there is a fabulous novel called Leaving Earth, by Helen Humphries, about aviatrix. It is a work of fiction based on historical research, and there is an index of famous women pilots. I have and love En Avion-the version I have is full of opopanox. Thank you for the great review.

  • I had no idea there was an Amelia Earhart day. I live in the u.s. and my fave Caron.is narcisse noir.

  • I just visited the Smithsonian’s Air and Space museum — and I’ve still got visions of air travel in my head. They have an area dedicated to the aviatrix. It’s inspiring. This review reminds me of the leather and steel of the exhibit.

    US resident. Fantastic review!

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    What a great journey to go on just now reading this article. Thank you for all of the historical information. I love reading how much more perfume is intertwined in our lives, that it is not just notes and smells. It takes you to so many places and it is always fascinating. I enjoy learning about all of the different components and the marketing of fragrances back then was very clever. Leaps and bounds women were really to be a force to reckon with. I loved the beautiful blue ad. I have not tried any Carons Paris fragrances yet so would love an opportunity with this draw. Thanks much! I am in the US

  • Thank you for retelling this amazing story of how Caron’s En Avion came to be created. The Amelia Earhart story is one of great inspiration for me, as my work is with pilots and it’s always wonderful when I can work with female pilots and realize what great strides women have made and are continuing to make in every area of the world and workplace. Knowing that my tough, but classy mother-in-law who flew and worked to help build war planes during WWII, is another one of those who helped pave the way for women pilots today is dear to my heart.

  • What fabulous history behind the fragrance! Thank you for the beautifully written tale and the wonderful review. My favorite Caron is Parfum Sacré, which has been on heavy rotation this summer.

    Can you believe I’ve never been to the Caron Boutique? It’s shameful. It’s only a few subway stops away!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    this article demonstrates the significance of flight in modern history..i can only imagine the collective enthusiasm of people around the world upon conquering the skies after centuries of attempts and not surprisingly perfume brands such as Caron could not afford to ‘not pay’ tribute in their own way..i really hope they find soon what happened to Amelia Earheart…one thing i didn’t know that there were many female pilots and not just few and it seems Victoria’s mother in law was one of them..my favorite caron fragrance is Tabac Blonde though Nuit de Noel is close second but there are still many i have not smelled yet such as Narcisse Noir and En Avion. Thanks Caron for such a beautiful extrait for this draw. I reside in the US

  • I learned about Earhart very young, because my mother greatly admired her. I just finished reading One Summer by Bill Bryson — the summer in question is 1927, and Lindbergh plays a significant role in the story. But Ms. Earhart (and her co-pilot Fred Noonan) have long held my interest — as has Parfum Sacre, my favorite from Caron! I live in the US.

  • Aimee l'Ondee says:

    Thanks for having this draw! I think there should be more perfumes with women’s achievements as their inspiration — thanks for pointing an amazing such perfume. My favorite Caron perfumes is Bellodgia, and I’d love to get to know En Avion better.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I enjoyed your review of Caron En Avion, a fragrance with a spicy orange heart dedicated to woman adventurers. I am interested in hearing your stories about older fragrances like this one from 1932 and I appreciate the opportunity to try one. I’m not familiar with any of their other perfumes.

  • I love how your review really does celebrate female aviators, while vividly describing the beauty of En Avion. Now I have to try it. My favorite Caron that I have tried is Parfum Sacre. I’m in the U.S.

  • What a great take on an vintage perfume that is still so modern
    I loved the history of the baccarat urns and learning about the brave aviators
    I have met Diane at the boutique and if you ever get to NYC it is like a wonderland with breathtaking bottles and the famed wall. More older brands should have ambassadors like Diane who is always friendly and full of knowledge. I ended up buying bellodgia and was saving for en avion.

  • judy stanley says:

    «i am so sad that Caron has discontinued «infini, may fav perfume of all time! Why why why