19th Century English Dandys from the Digital Libraries of The Metropolitan Musuem of Art
I hate lavender. I have to just come out and say that. For an herb that has occupied such an important place in history, you’d think I’d appreciate it more. Especially when lavender features so prominently in many classic men’s fragrances, (ie. the fougeres), you’d think I’d come around over time. But no – I’ve always associated lavender scents with limp, overly-dandified excursions into prissy, snooty faux-sophistication. Lavender is the raised pinky note of the perfumed world, and so I move on.
Clint Eastwood in Unforgiven 1992
Enter Au Pay de la Fleur Oranger’s Lavande Ombrée from the Collection les Inédites released in 2013 (Jean Claude Gigadot). The name translates as Shadowy Lavender, and it’s entirely apt. The lavender here is backed by sharp cinnamon and cedar, creating a dark and smoky quality that is definitely masculine. This is no polo field perfume, to be worn by aristocrats before high tea. Lavande Ombree is the scent for Clint Eastwood in Unforgiven: -Lavande Hombre.
It's a bone-dry, charred, scorched-earth lavender. The notes usual overt soapiness is far in the background, at first eclipsed on the opening by a sweet bergamot, and then flattened by the blend of the cedar and cinnamon notes in the heart. Lavande Ombrée is a fragrance that only wants to highlight the astringent, herbal qualities of lavender, as a kind of palate cleanse after a hearty blast of spices and wood notes. Rose is also listed here, but it is not prominent; this fragrance is about roughing up a traditionally staid style of perfume, rather than allowing a floral component to soften it. The drydown is a whisper of musk and amber, almost an afterthought, with a touch of patchouli to act as a bridge between the rawness of the cedar and the last remnants of scent.
For an Eau De Parfum, this fragrance has quite powerful sillage Just like Clint Eastwood, Lavande Ombrée comes on strong. The shadowy, leather-like smoke is the major attraction here – it roars out of the bottle, and then you’re left with a thin trail of sweet musk after about an hour or so. The effect is like watching a gun being fired in slow motion.
Movie Still of the Final Scene of Unforgiven
Lavande Ombrée is a rugged scent and for anyone who worships at the shrine of fruity florals, this may not be for you. It is however a shared fragrance and great for a woman who is searching for a lavender perfume that doesn't smell like laundry soap. I appreciate that Creative Director Virginie Roux and Jean Claude Gigot approach; they took a tried-and-true men’s fragrance note, made it a little gritty and and moved it out of the “ascots and ponies” realm where most lavender-based men’s fragrances reside. This seems natural for a company whose founders, Virginie and Antoine Roux, have been connected for generations to the perfumed history of the Grasse region (Antoine’s grandfather was the Flower Commissioner to the local perfume factories.)
I had some longevity issues (four hours), which just could be me as the fragrance disappears a little too soon, when after such a dramatic first act I want it to go on all night. It reminds me of that moment, in an early Eastwood Western when the gunfight is over, and in the ensuing silence, the townspeople are left cowering and confused, unsure if it’s safe to come out on the street again. When I wear Lavande Ombrée, I feel like it's OK to go home.
Lavande Ombrée notes: Lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, rose, cedar, amber, musk, leather, patchouli
–Steve Johnson, Contributor
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Lavande Ombrée is available in the US at IndigoPerfumery.com, Twistedlily.com, Beautyhabit.com, Pickwick's Mercantile in Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Select Stockists Worldwide 100ml/$125
Thanks to Au Pays de la Fleur D'Oranger we have a 100ml bottle of Lavande Ombrée for a USA, Canda or EU reader. Please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Lavande Ombrée, your favorite Clint Eastwood movie and where you reside. Draw ends October 23, 2014
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