Perfume as Opera: Madama Butterfly, Carmen and Turandot

perfume illustrations opera amouage  carmen and  turandot

Orignal Ink and Water Color Illustrations of Amouage Honour Woman, Ego Facto Ego Facto Prends Garde À Toi and Histoires de Parfums 1926 Turandot by Jasia Julia Nielson

To turn to the Opera for inspiration for a perfume is by no means new. Jacques Guerlain created Liu, which was inspired by the slave girl in Puccini’s Turandot, in 1929.

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Theatre collage by Jasia Julia Nielson: Opera Garnier Paris, costume design by Umberto Brunelleschi, an illustration by Hans Henning Voigt, Japanese woodblock print artist uncredited.

Fortunately we are still being presented with olfactive interpretations of famous masterpieces interpreting the feast for eyes and ears evoking opera at its greatest.

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Original Madama Butterfly watercolor illustration by Jasia Julia Nielson

 Creative Director  Christopher  Chong of Amouage dedicated  Honour Woman  to Puccini’s opera Madama Butterfly,  the story of the geisha Cio-Cio-San who marries the American Lt. Pinkerton, and awaits his return, only to see all hopes dashed, honour allowing her only one way out; death. The opening of Honour Woman has a short burst of metallic pepper foreboding the tragic  end, however, it is soon put firmly away by the hope of white flowers, like the white stripes of the ship on the horizon – “White, white… the American stars and stripes!”. It’s a creamy, but by no means delicate with a seductive white floral bouquet of tuberose, gardenia and jasmine. In the heart an aquatic metallic scent, stemming mostly from lily-of-the-valley and incense, can be glimpsed behind the flowers. The aquatic-notes sit beautifully as dew on the wreath, while at the same time linking to the tears and sea of hope that ‘one fine day’ (‘un bel di’). The metal pointing at the hara-kiri Butterfly will commit with the sword of her father which is inscribed with the words; “Let there be honour in death, where there is no honour in life". A base of resins and incense  closes the scent, drawing the final curtain.

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Carmen collage: Illustrator Hans Henning Voigt -(digitally altered) and original floral ink and watercolor by Jasia Julia Nielson

Perfume, like opera, evokes strong emotions.   Prends Garde À Toi by Ego Facto, does just that.  Like the Habanera-aria) which the perfume takes its name from,  it either sings to you sweetly of freedom and love, or growls ‘prends garde a toi’- watch it, you! This effect  sums up exactly what Georges Bizet's Carmen represents, a strong, independent woman who grows weary of her men, because they can’t live up to her expectations, they are no match for her charisma. Creative Director Pierre Aulas,  and perfumers Jean and Aurélien  Guichard  have gone all in pursuing the ‘authentic’ Carmen, all they believe she stands for, it’s very clear that what they didn’t want to do was a caricature of a Flamenco Dancing Femme Fatale  in red and black and a rose between her teeth.It’s daring to present this green, floral, woody fragrance.  But exactly who is Carmen, or rather what is the essence of her if not exactly unpredictable and daring. An abstract fruity note starts the aria, singing along with an almost aquatic freshness before being outshone by a sharp, thorny grass scent. From greenness the fragrance turns into a breathy whisper of a white florals and woods before ending in a warm musky, dry feel, like that of a mezzo voice in pianissimo. It might be the Habanera it’s taking its name from, but the heart has the foreboding of the ‘card aria’, in which Carmen foresees her own death.

Both Cio-Cio San and Carmen meet a tragic end, so let us finish on a slightly happier note. We have come full circle back to Turandot –  71 years after Guerlain Liu,  Histoires de Parfums’ Gérald Ghislain’s offers his interpretation of Puccini’s opera; 1926 Turandot.

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Turandot collage: Turandot:  costume design by Umberto Brunelleschi (digitally altered) and original floral  pencil and watercolor illustration by Jasia Julia Nielson

Turandot is the beautiful Chinese ice princess, who has sworn to only marry the man who answers her three riddles correctly;  if he doesn’t he must die. Prince Calaf passes the test but, seeing her fear, gives her a riddle to get out of her promise to him. “You do not know my name! Tell me my name before dawn!” The perfume starts with a very true and decisive narcissus, and that strange poisonous sharpness of the narcissus accentuated by the bite of ginger. On my skin it is sharper and seems more poisonous yellow, than on the mouillette, where it’s softer and a bit sweet as soon as a subtle juicy pear scent sets in. I would say it’s almost pretty, just with that touch of razor sharpness. It’s a clever way of adding a Far Eastern and aloof touch to characterise the icy Turandot. Even as the top starts blending into the heart of jasmine and carnation, narcissus plays the first violin to a very subdued powdery, slightly spicy  carnation and a well behaved jasmine, adding  just enough for a feminine touch. But it’s the narcissus which provides the scent-leitmotif. The dry down according to the official notes, are patchouli, amber, leather and incense which sounds a lot more ‘in your face’ than this fragrance ever becomes. The slightly bitter and non-smoky incense ties in with the ginger and the narcissus to keep a tart and felt Asian trail throughout the perfume. All notes are beautifully intertwined, and one perceives a soft floral-tinted leather as well as fruity amber chord, but truly, everything here is so subtle, so quiet. Shh… “But my secret is hidden within me;
none will know my name!”
  In that night no one sleeps – (Nessun Dorma, None shall sleep) everyone is kept awake to find his name. When dawn, breaks the Princess responds “I know the name of the stranger! His name is…Love!

Jasia Julia Nielsen, Contributor

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28 comments

  • Brilliant review. It states ‘Perfume, like opera, evokes strong emotions.’ It can make a big statement, a light veil, a ‘come hither’ gesture or an ‘i’m in total control’ mode. Sometimes a perfume can be all of these emotions as it develops on the skin; just as an opera can traverse a whole story with many different stages.
    I’m in the UK and would love to win the 1926 Turandot.
    Many thanks for the draw. Patsi

  • Wonderful review by Jasia. I love how she explains the operatic plots/characters a bit for anyone not familiar, while also building a bridge between opera as a musical experience and scent. Fascinated by the term “scent-leitmotif” 🙂

    I’d choose the 1926 Turandot. I’m in Canada. Thanks!

  • I love this comparison of perfume to characters in the three operas. It’s fascinating that perfumes can be inspired by almost anything. All three fragrances sound great!

    With Honour Woman I love the opening note of metallic that hints at the tragic end of Madame Butterly.

    With Prends Garde a Toi, I love how the character Carmen is essentially captured in a bottle. It sings of love or growls! Powerful!

    I live in the USA and would love to win 1926 Turandot. Thank you!

    And finally with 1926 Turandot you have a scent with a Far East touch, pretty with a touch of razor sharpness. It sounds like it has captured the personality of the princess in the bottle.

  • I love your comparisons of the three perfumes with the operas. Carmen is the only opera mentioned here that I have watched in full. If the Ego Facto perfume is a faithful representation of the fiery and seductive Carmen, then I can’t wait to try it.

    I tried Amouage Honour once and it was so beautiful. A bit different from the usual rich and billowing Amouages but its beauty overrides this fact.

    Thanks for the draw. If I win, I’d choose the Ego Facto. I live in Canada.

  • What an amazing review. I like the reference of the metallic opening of Honour Women and how it signifies the end(death), then is followed by white flowers which signifies hope in Madame Butterfly. I live in the U.S.. 1926 would be great. Thank you so much for this.

  • fazalcheema says:

    i agree both perfumes and opera evoke strong emotions but while opera sometimes goes for sad ending, keeping in line with the end of the hero or heroines, perfumes can dare to go for happier endings..my choice will be HDP 1926. thanks so much for the draw. I am in the US

  • The description of Amouage Honour Woman is spot on, and I love the artwork–I was wondering where it came from as I read the review. I’d choose the Histoires de Parfum 1926 Turandot, and I’m in the US.

  • Jasia’s illustrations are gorgeous. I know the stories of Butterfly and Carmen but was not familiar with Turandot, though I know the famous “nessun dorma” aria. I will have to find a production somewhere and see it. I would choose the Histoires de Parfum’s 1926 Turandot if I win. I’m in the uSA, and thanks so much!

  • Very nice review, it was so interesting to read it. If I would as lucky to win, my choice would be 2 oz 1926 Turandot. I live in Europe. Thank you for the draw!

  • I simply enjoy to determine the good taste of Jasia about the opera and how she really show that knows what are talking about.

    I live in Europe and I’d choose the Histoires de Parfum 1926 Turandot

  • I enjoyed the overview of the connection between perfume and opera. “Perfume, like opera, evokes strong emotions.” Indeed. Most people hate opera these days! But it’s a beautiful and rich art form, as is perfume!

    I’d choose the Histoires de Parfum 1926 Turandot. I’m intrigued by it, though I haven’t found a fragrance with narcissus in it yet that I can wear. I LOVE narcissus in real life; maybe this will be the perfume that wins me over to it “in a bottle?”

    Thanks for the draw and great post. In the US.

  • I ‘discovered’ opera at 20 when a boyfriend bought me a beautiful pair of mother-of-pearl opera glasses and took me to a performance of Aida. Ten years later, the boyfriend is gone but I still have the glasses and, most importantly, a love of opera. I get excited when I see posts mentioning opera and sharing clips of famous arias because I hope that they may inspire others to explore, and listen and maybe fall in love with the music and the genre. This excitement is very similar to the enthusiasm I feel about sharing my favorite perfumes. I feel there are some misconceptions about both art forms, when what they really are about is beauty and expression and exploring or communicating aspects of the human experience or emotions. Jasia conveys that so beautifully here – through her prose, her scent-and-sound pairings and her lovely artwork. Thank you for giving me something to get excited about on a regular Tuesday morning! If chosen, I would pick 1926 Turandot (it sounds wonderful, and also happens to be one of my favorite operas!). I’m in the US. Thank you!

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    I love the blend of opera and scent. I thoroughly enjoyed the musical clips, and this article encouraged me to read more about the current big names in opera.I would choose 50 ml Ego Facto Prends Garde a Toi. I live in the US

  • First, I love Jasia’s delicate watercolors….so beautiful! I enjoyed the opera inspiration for perfumes….a perfect match I would say. The (often tragic) stories seem to provide much inspiration to the perfume artists! If I won I would choose / Prends Garde À Toi by Ego Facto,. Thank you for the draw…usa

  • Lovely review, amazingly beautiful associations between perfumes and opera characters how each perfume note colors an operatic character like Madam Butterfly or Carmen or Turandot. Yes I totally agree perfume like opera can evoke strong emotions!!!
    I would love to experience 1926 Turandot.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.

  • Such beautiful art and such beautiful writing. And music. Fantastic opera
    I love this kind of article and it brightened my day
    I would love 1926 turandot
    I live in the USA

  • madeleine gallay says:

    Thank you for the stories, that’s so integral to appreciating such a heart-felt craft.

    oh the 50 ml ego Facto Prends Garde a Toi, here in the US.

    Such exquisite art and work in this review, so touching to understand all of this.

  • Jasia, thank you for reminding me that sometimes times are hard and “nobody sleeps” but that beauty in this world always returns to comfort us. Music notes and fragrance notes can be magical. Ego Facto Prends Garde a Toi sounds wonderful, and I would love to try it. I am in the US. Thank you for the thoughtful reviews, the music, and the draw. Happy holidays!

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    wonderful Review. Perfume is also Drama like operas. I love both. 1926 Turandot souns wunderfulto me. I live in the EU, Austria. Thanks for the draw.

  • I know nothing about opera but I love how you brought it to life and I would love to win the 1926 Turandot. I am in the EU

  • Thank you for these reviews, the music, and the draw!
    I never knew the story of Turandot, and enjoyed reading as I listened. It was a much more affecting piece when I understood the story: ““But my secret is hidden within me; none will know my name!” In that night no one sleeps – (Nessun Dorma, None shall sleep) everyone is kept awake to find his name. When dawn, breaks the Princess responds “I know the name of the stranger! His name is…Love!”

    Opera is a harder genre for me to get into but when it comes together I can see how the emotional intensity really works.

    I would love to experience 1926 Turandot.

    I am in the US.

  • Our! I love this review and comparison of operas with the perfumes mentioned. I confess that I’m not much of a connoisseur of opera, but I have a lot of respect to opera, I think amazing vocal pitch of the singers and all that art and representation of operas.
    I’d like to win 1926 Turandot
    I’m in the US

  • Amazing review on these gems. I think these are the kind of fragrances that bring out the best in the person wearing them. They just seem like the ones that make you feel super confident. I would love to win 1926 Turandot. I am in Canada.

  • Un bel di is actually my favourite opera piece. It gives me shivers every time. Fun fact: it’s actually what got me interested in opera as a teenager. I can’t say I’m that knowledgeable about the artform, but that song was definitely the light bulb piece that changed my thinking about opera. I loved reading about the olfactory equivalent of Cio-Cio-San. Delicate white flowers grounded by incense makes perfect sense to me. I will have to track down a sample of Honour Woman.

    I live in Canada and would absolutely love to win 1926 Turandot.

  • Opera and fragrance are two great art form . I’ve never been to an opera, but its something I’d definitely want to go to. Great read and thank you very much for the draw! I will go with 1926 Turandot as my choice. I’m Canadian

  • Un Bel Di is an amazing opera. I’m a big fan of opera. I think its just so emotional and touching

    I’d love 1926 Turandot

    I’m international (Toronto)

  • I know very little about opera but did enjoy Jasia’s “Opera and Perfume” piece. Both Carmen and Turandot sound like amazing characters and I’d be interested to see the perfumers’ interpretations of these women. I live in the US and would choose 1926 Turondot.