Red wood (artist unknown)

One of the reasons we love fragrance so much is that they often present an opportunity to mentally visit distant or imaginary landscapes.  Arab cultural influences such as bathhouses have always struck Western artists as exotic and mysterious; the explosion of oud as an inspiration and ingredient proves this attitude has permeated the perfume world.  But an over-reliance on standard themes lends many of these scents which are intended to transport us like a magic carpet an ironic sameness. One fragrance that rises above the pack of ordinary Orientals is Penhaligon’s Elixir, composed by Olivia Giacobetti in 2008.  By combining accords which are typical of the genre with her own trademark “sheer” style, she has created a unique work of art that gives this well-trodden territory the thrill of a first visit to a new country.

Hammam courtesy of faena.com

Steam rises from a reflective pool; languid half-dressed bodies draped in colorful cloth recline in the heat.  Inspired by the Moroccan bathhouse known as a hammam, Elixir is a modern reinterpretation of a classic Penhaligon’s fragrance, Hammam Bouquet, from 1872.  It bears a resemblance to cologne as well as traditional Orientals, and is a perfect choice for lovers of the latter as the weather gets warmer here in the Northern Hemisphere.

 William Klein, Hat and Five Roses, Vogue, 1958

Elixir’s opening is a lush red Turkish rose, supported by jasmine and orange blossom to add dimensionality.  Spices of cardamom, cinnamon and mace give the rose a foreign flair, but spicy roses, however well done, are not uncommon these days.

 The Sulphur Match, John Singer Sargent, 1882/Penhaligon’s Elixir, 2008

Elixir, however, performs the alchemic magic suggested by its name by the addition of eucalyptus, a stroke of genius on Ms. Giacobetti’s part because its cool profile contrasts with the warm notes it rests on to create an olfactory illusion. The combination of eucalyptus and spicy rose smells much like the sulfur of a match being struck; the rose is suddenly aflame, and takes on the characteristics of a temple incense.  Over time, the fire cools and a base of vanilla, tonka, and benzoin add an airiness.

Olivia Giacobetti

Rose and eucalyptus are still discernible, but now they have calmed down to suggest the idea of clean wet skin drying in a breeze. If done with a heavy hand, the incense and spicy rose notes in Elixir could overpower or clash, but Olivia Giacobetti’s light touch puts this fragrance in the desirable company of scents which are wearable and yet provide an evolving artistic experience.  Available in eau de toilette, candle, and bath/shower gel forms, Elixir also presents the opportunity to create the hammam experience at home.  Sillage is moderate, though by layering products in this way it can be easily increased.  Longevity is excellent, reaching ten hours or more for me.  As a study in contrast between hot and cold, familiar and strange, and passionate and peaceful, Elixir occupies a space unlike any other fragrance I’ve tried, and it continues to surprise and delight with each wearing.

Disclosure: Review based on bottle provided by Penhaligon’s for promotional consideration

—Nancy Knows, Editor and editor in chief of the fragrance blog Make Perfume, Not War

Thanks to our friends at Penhaligon's London USA we have a 100 ml EDT to one reader in the U.S. or Canada. To be eligible, Please leave a comment with why you would like to win Elixir and your favorite Olivia Giacobetti or Penhaligon's Perfume. Draw closes May 1, 2014

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