Parfumerie Générale Suede Osmanthe 5.1 (Pierre Guillaume) 2017 –New Perfume Review + Magical Aldehydes Draw

Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale.

 Perfumer Pierre Guillaume loves a good riff. Over the last two years, he has given a “radical reworking” to several fragrances in his Collection Parfumerie Generale, taking melodies from the originals and rearranging their notes and beats.

Agyness Deyn and Luke Worrall, photo by Solve Sundsbo, 2008

 Suede Osmanthe, the latest 'rework', is premised on 2005’s L’eau de Circe, a “melancholy fruity-floral.” L’eau de Circe retains an echo of 30s Paris, nodding a Marcel-waved head to prewar oriental chypres with its Mitsouko-like peachy florals. But protégé Suede Osmanthe is a modern betty, rocking a laser-cut suede jacket and boy hair. Her flowers are pared down, the leather amped up, while apricots and black tea skews the fragrance from the femme of Circe to androgynous. This is Agyness Deyn in a tulle skirt and Doc Martins turning up for tea at Claridge’s.

 Agyness Deyn, Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion show, 2007

Did I say the flowers were pared down? Actually, they are completely absent. Despite the delicate yuzu-apricot waft of osmanthus at the heart of the fragrance, Guillaume has performed one of his signature sleights of hand in suggesting osmanthus in a scent that has not a single flower in it. Guillaume has broken down osmanthus’ distinctive notes – apricot, leather and a jasmine-like floweriness – and suggested them by using Suederal © (a molecule developed by IFF), apricot and aldehydes to suggest osmanthus’ singular perfume.

Hanne Gaby Odiele by Will Davidson for Oyster No.101 

The real brilliance of Suede Osmanthe is Guillaume’s ingenious use of aldehydes. Suede Osmanthus bubbles up like soda overflowing a just-opened bottle, aldehydes cresting under a wave of vivid orange and apricots. Their leavening quality imparts an uncharacteristic, upbeat lightness to the suede, and, along with moreish black tea, gives Suede Osmanthe its of-the-moment verve.

Photo by Hedvig Palm for Cover Magazine, October, 2015

As aldehydes give a lift to the weightier notes, that complex fruit note of the opening hums along in parallel. This accord somehow mimics the piquant-sweet smell of plumcots one moment, mandarin and damson the next.  The first moments of Suede Osmanthe is rather like sniffing sophisticated fruit cocktail made with a very dry prosecco.  It’s a concerto waiting to start.

Stella Tennant, in 'El Dorado' by Mario Testino for Vogue US

Those first few seconds are so juicy that the fine-textured suede that will dominate the fragrance sneaks up. But when it arrives, this suede is sticking around for more than cocktails. The orchestra warm–up of fruit and fizz quiets down as the leather brings the composition into a slower tempo. From this point on, Suede Osmanthe is all about that almost powdery, sandy smell of glove suede: warm, smooth, expensive.

Brett Anderson of Suede, 1990s, stock photo

Borrowing aromas from Bergdorf’s gloves counter and tea at Takashimaya, Suede Osmanthe has the uptown vibe of a downtown stylista, a boarding school background hidden beneath some insouciant swag. It smells expensive but approachable, those spangly aldehydes keeping everything as lighthearted as a Cole Porter tune. Wearable by anyone anywhere, Suede Osmanthe is melancholy Circe happily buzzed on champagne and grooving to some Brett Anderson.

Notes: Aldehydes, black tea leaves, Suederal©, apricot, cashmeran and musk.

Disclaimer: Suede Osmanthe provided by Parfumerie Generale – many thanks. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Co Art Direction: Lauryn and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 Parfumerie Générale​ Suede Osmanthe 5.1

Thanks to the generosity of Pierre Guillaume and Parfumerie Générale, we have a 30 ml bottle of Suede Osmanthe for 1 registered reader in the U.S., Europe or Canada. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Suede Osmanthe based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and if you have a favourite Parfumerie Generale perfume. Draw closes September 23, 2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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26 comments

  • This is interesting approach by Pierre to rework original creations either because he feels they can be improved or he get new ideas to creatively twist them. Suede Osmanthus has weighty formula but aldehydes bring lightness to it. Thanks for draw. I am in US. My fav. from Parfumerie Generale is Cuir Venenum.

  • A scent with not a single flower in it 🙂 this is really interesting, also the apricot-leather combo sounds good. I need to get my nose on Parfumerie Generale fragrances. Thanks for the ddraw, i live in the EU.

  • Haha! I laughed when I read this – it sounds like a scent to let loose in! It also sounds fascinating how it was constructed. If anyone can capture “of-the-moment,” I believe it’s Pierre Guillaume. I have some favorites, but they are some of his older works – Cadjmere and Bois de Copaiba. I haven’t been lucky enough to smell most of his recent works. Thanks for this wonderful review, and thank you to PG for their generous gift! I’m in the USA.

  • Richard potter says:

    Osmanthus is certainly having it’s moment in the sun. Perhaps this should have been called Suede Nosmanthe.

  • I live in the US, I liked her description of Suede Osmanthe “Borrowing aromas from Bergdorf’s gloves counter and tea at Takashimaya” yes, that sounds good. I do not have a favorite Parfumerie Generale, yet.

  • Love this quote! “Suede Osmanthus bubbles up like soda overflowing a just-opened bottle, aldehydes cresting under a wave of vivid orange and apricots.”
    It really sounds like a gorgeous fragrance. I’ve never smelled anything from this perfume house. But your review makes me want to order this fragrance tonight!
    I live in the U.S.

  • Well I baptized myself Circe when I was a child, and I love Eau DE Circe very much, I wanted to have more longevity to worth a bottle buy for me, always amazed when parfumeurs do they magic, and evoque this Miss Osmanthus without a flower in the making, and “the smell of a gloves section” always haunting for me. Yes, I remember Circe a melancholic scent, very happy that this is taking champagne and enjoying life that must be the aldehyde, the happy note .Thank you Pierre!

  • I like the reference to Cole Porter. The notes certainly do sound as lighthearted as a Cole Porter classic. I am intrigued by the fruit, the fizz, the black tea and damson notes. This fragrance sounds perfect for autumn adventures.
    My favorite perfume from this house is L’Ombre Fauve.
    I live in the USA.

  • “5.1 Suede Osmanthe” sounds so good. I don’t know about the fruity part, but I guess it is well combined with the suede/leather, the latter being a note I search for in fragrances. “Warm, smooth, expensive” is all I ask for.
    I never had the opportunity to try a Parfumerie Generale fragrance.
    I live in Europe.
    Thank you.

  • The description of a champagne like aldyhyde suede perfume sounds perfect for autumn. Lauryn has gone all out in her descriptions of this uptown girl. My favorite Parumerie Generale is L’Oiseau de Nuit which I love, love, love. I live in USA Thank you

  • Wow. Too many things sound right about this one. Melancholy fruity-floral. Mitsouko-like peach. Drinking tea in Dr. Martens. Flowers without actual flowers. Apricot. Leather. Androgynous. Warm, smooth, expensive. A modern Mitsouko. I’m in!

    OK, guys, This is THE ONE where I have to win. Just sayin’.

    😀

  • Oh, and I forgot. I live in Copenhagen, Denmark. And my favourite Parfumerie Generale perfume is Bois Blond. But I actually don’t know enough perfumes by this brand. I hope to change that.

  • I really liked the review since it pointed out Pierre Guillaume made an osmanthus perfume without osmanthus. Very descriptive avant garde review too. Nice art. I live in the USA

  • “Sophisticated fruit cocktail made with a very dry prosecco” is what I will need to try this autumn, sounds interesting.
    Haven’t tried Parfumerie Generale fragrances.
    Thanks for the draw! I live in Europe

  • Bergdorf’s glove counter must have been Heaven, what a scent memory!

    Parfumerie Generale was one of the first niche houses I fell in love with. L’Oiseau De Nuit and L’Eau de Circe were two of my favorites, as well as Ylang Ivohibe. Circe dried down to an almost embarrassingly sexy skin scent on me. This sounds gorgeous.

  • I am intrigued by the fact that there aren’t any flowers in this blend. I generally do not purchase fragrances that are in the “floral” category, but I believe all my scents have at least some floral in the supporting roles. How Lauryn has likened the development of the fragrance to a concert is like music to my nose!! Wearable by anyone and anywhere is really a plus. I have not been able to smell anything from this line, I do however have the Patchouli sample coming in an order I am waiting for. Thanks for the chance! I live in the US.

  • I love apricots. The scent that is a happy buzz sounds good to me.
    This should be good for the autumn.

    In USA.

  • What I really found appealing in Suede Osmanthe based on Lauryn’s review is the “powdery” smell of suede as she so beautifully describes it”
    “But when it arrives, this suede is sticking around for more than cocktails…………………..the leather brings the composition into a slower tempo. From this point on, Suede Osmanthe is all about that almost powdery, sandy smell of glove suede: warm, smooth, expensive….”.
    My favorite Parfumerie Generale is L’Oiseau de Nuit.
    I live in EU.

  • I really like the pictures – it communicated and describe the fragrance perfectly.

    I’ve not tried any of Parfumerie Generale.

    Thanks for the chance. Hello from Canada.

  • The description is beautiful and this sounds like a great scent for cold weather. I was able to get the Aomassai and Indochine from this line, both gorgeous fragrances.
    Thank you for the draw! I live in EU

  • I am very drawn to the idea of mixing tea (hot, tannic, downwards) and prosecco (cold, sparkling, upwards).
    My favorite of theirs is Indochine, but I love plenty others.
    I’m in the US, and crossing my fingers for this one! Cheers, d

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    What appeals to me most about Suede Osmanthe 5.1 is that it incorporates the latest approaches to perfumery to create floral notes from aldehydes, and there are no florals in the fragrance at all. It is wizardry in action. I would like to experience the suede, apricot, and black tea notes. I really can’t wait to smell the fragrance of this perfume. I am new to Parfumerie Generale’s fragrances, and would like to check out the entire line. (San Jose, California, USA)

  • It can be interesting, that floral notes were turned down or even eliminated. I do not know the original formulation but the scent description sounds great. I have a big bottle of 27 Limanakia and I really like it, in spite of it’s quite feminine vibe. I live in EU.

  • Thank you for very interesting review. I like leather and suede in fragarnces, so I read this article with big interest and pleasure. Its sounds very intersting- suede and fruits and tea!! Mmmmmm….
    From Parfumerie Generale’s fragrances I know only 02 Coze- very extraordinary and complex pefume with some retro style.
    From USA

  • Everything about Suede Osmanthe appeals to me. I adore Parfumerie Generale. Suede, apricot, osmanthus and tea are some of my favorite perfume notes. The line “borrowing aromas from Bergdorf’s gloves counter and tea at Takashimaya” brings back memories of NYC fragrance shopping trips. And Lauryn’s writing is always a pleasure to read. As for a favorite PG? At then moment, it’s probably Cuir d’Iris. I’m in the US.

  • Has there been a draw? Or is it actually september 23’th two thousand and EIGHTEEN? 😀

    Oh dear. Too exited to wait that long. Haha.