In 1967 two brothers (Jonas and Robert af Jochnick) began a company in Stockholm, Sweden in a rented two room office suite. They built no shining modern stores, but decided instead to do mail order and have personal interaction with customers through reps. The company’s first shipping and receiving department was a rented garage with a used ping pong table that served as their mailing center. The name of the company, Oriflame, was taken from a royal banner, in medieval France, that was unfurled only on the battlefield. They chose a fitting name for a company whose products are readily available in over 60 countries (including China and Russia). Their dream and hope (then and now) was to make a natural line of cosmetics and skin care while keeping them affordable, ethical and modern.
One of the things that drew me to Oriflame was the word “natural”. When I first heard about them I was intrigued with the names of their scents: Amethyst Fatale, Eclat (radiance), and Free Motion. I found out that they were not readily available in the US but they did offer a mail order site to Americans who wanted their products. I was lucky enough to have friends in the international fragrance community and have swapped for and received many samples as gifts. The six fragrances I am reviewing I received this way. I am a BIG fan of Yves Rocher (especially their vintages) and Avon. From what I have tried, I would say that this company’s fragrances are better than Avon’s and some of the modern Yves Rochers are. The scents are not 100% natural, as they use some aromachemicals, but they are a very skillful blending of natural essences with modern synthetics.
Grace (released in 2009) was my first Oriflame. The bottle is a thing of beauty. A twisted purple flacon with long hose attached and a tasseled atomizer “puff” ball, that reminds one of the classic era when women sprayed their luxurious perfumes lavishly, holds a truly beautiful (and graceful) floral scent. It opens with a dry crisp pear, subtle pepper and smooth cardamom. This opening heralds the arrival of a lovely (not too sweet or powdery) violet blended and balanced with dry carnation and creamy jasmine. It is simple, yet elegant, and is aptly named. The finish of cashmere (cashmeran), clean musk, vetiver and vanilla is neither oriental nor woody; yet somehow captures the best of both without being too much of either. Grace is a lovely blend of spices, flowers and woods with just enough vanilla to make it sexy, A bit feminine for me, but definitely having a higher quality than most direct order companies’ scents do…and for the price you really cannot go wrong. Sillage: good Longevity: very good
Amethyst Fatale (by Francis Kurkdjian and released in 2007) is an opulent fruity floriental chypre with a noir aura and sensual overtones. The company only listed three notes (rose, iris and amber) yet, to my nose, there is so much more going on here. It opens with dark tempting fruits (currants or blackberries) and a wonderfully rich plum note. The heart is unabashedly dark and mysterious as sensual roses and dry cool irises entwine to create something that would make any femme fatale proud to wear it. A dry haunting orchid aroma lingers underneath the other flowers, bringing to mind exotic locales and soul stirring love. Then, in the base notes, is the teasing sweetness of vanilla bean, the dark beauty of amber and sinful temptation of heady musk. It is somewhat oriental and musky; but it manages to remain refined and poised. Amethyst Fatale is somewhat reminiscent of Natori (edp) and Mary Caswell’s Plum, but is a dupe of neither. This is what I had hoped Imari Seduction (released the same year by Avon) would have been like. This scent was advertised as “pure perfume poison” and it does indeed smell VERY “purple” (rich and royal) and is extremely “drop dead” gorgeous. Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.
Eclat for Men (released in the early 2000’s) is a pretty straightforward woodsy scent that really impressed me with its clean and crisp aroma and excellent balance. Eclat lives up to its name. It has a very sparkling opening of bitter, yet sheer, bergamot that morphs into a dry masculine spicy floral scent. The shine of the bergamot persists and adds a soft smoothness to the otherwise arid geranium. I also detect just a bit of white pepper which is subtly piquant without inducing the urge to sneeze. The finish of light woods and ambergris adds enough of an anchor that the flowers do not blow away too quickly. Ambergris, usually somewhat slightly sour and animalic, adds a hint of luxury but is never ostentatious. This is what many would consider a linear scent as it does not have all that much complexity or development. Sometimes, you just want to smell good! Eclat does; it remains masculine, but never becomes too brutish. Amazingly, and without any of the usual suspects, it is at once “sporty” and modern yet refined and dignified. This is something everyone will notice but will offend no one…the epitome of class. Sillage: average Longevity: good.
Giordani White Gold (released as a flanker/pair with Giordani Gold, ironically a big white floral) It opens with the sunny aroma of nectarines, dripping with a warm fresh sweetness and aromas of delicate blossoms on a spring breeze. The body, composed of fruity honeysuckle and creamy jasmine, is where the “white” part comes in. Like a casual but meaningful caress, this perfume graces one’s skin. Although it is composed mostly of fruits and florals, it is much more sophisticated than most of the mass market designer scents of this ilk that are currently littering modern perfume counters. Its finish is musky and woody with the added earthy rawness of patchouli and a very golden vanilla. Opening warmly fruity and gorgeously floral in its heart and finishing earthy, woody and alluring; this meets all the requirements of a floral chypre. An interesting blend of classic structure fleshed out with modern accents and timeless beauty, White Gold smells as good as it sounds. As with the true metals, I prefer the white variety, as I find it less “gauche” and so much more “me”. Sillage: very good. Longevity: very good.
Free Motion (released in 2011) is the second masculine scent I have tried from this House. I am as impressed with it as I was Eclat for Men. An amazing opening of cool spearmint and warm licorice notes, underscored with nondescript citruses, creates a unique impression. It is something refreshing and freeing, but also slightly darker and more enticing than most modern masculine scents. As the mint chills the sharp and spiced licorice, it becomes cleanly herbaceous and a bit softer. The simple dry down of white sandalwood adds a distinct woodiness without going incense or oriental. This is a truly energetic (but not a “sport” type) fragrance that is at the same time sheer (but solid) and very sexy. Aromatic green meets gourmand in a subtly musky wooden framework, Free Motion is modern and streamlined with a nod to the classic eaux de colognes and herbal green potions of the past. Any age can wear this from teens to older men and still carry it well. Sillage: closer. Longevity: pretty good.
M by Marcel Marongiu (released in 2011) was a joint collaboration with fashion designer M. Marongiu and Oriflame. Marcel helped develop the perfume and even designed the flacon. He wanted to make a perfume for brave, confident and feminine ladies. M opens with the mysterious vapors of absinthe liqueur, rich taif roses and wisps of incense. The bitter green contrasts nicely with the fruity rose and smoky resins. The incense pulls us to the heart of Turkish roses (denser and more sensuous), dark rich dates and steely iris. The heart of this scent is unmistakably oriental and floral with a moist fruitiness. Here I imagine rich treats served to sultanas in harem tents on flower strewn beds as incense swirls in the air and exotic music plays. The finish of raw patchouli and golden amber whisper of riches, as suede wraps you seductively in its softness. I find this perfume to have definite aphrodisiac qualities, as it blends the warm glow of absinthe with heady sensual flowers, delicious delicacies and opulent base notes. Amazing! Sillage: very good. Longevity: incredible.
I find that (from what I have sampled, own and smelled on others) Oriflame is a quality line of fragrances that are well crafted and worth searching out and owning. Worth every penny and then some, this company and its scents would be a welcome addition to the American market. It is not very often one finds the range this company has with an above average quality. I am happy to say I have yet to encounter a “bad” Oriflame fragrance, and will enjoy trying to smell (and inevitably own) as many as I can. Designer quality and affordable price delivered right to your home…what more can you ask for?
These reviews were written based on samples, decants and bottles from my personal collection. I extend a grateful thank you to all of my fragrant international friends, worldwide, who made this article possible; you know who you are!
–John Reasinger, Weekly Contributor