Henri Rousseau The Dream©
“I wanted something purely terrestrial… the dark fecundity of nature, the deep well of the womb, silence…" – Henry Miller, Tropic of Capricorn
If the writer Henry Miller (1891-1980) were here today, he might very well discover his desired "dark fecundity" in Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn perfume. Ellen Covey's steamy take on the tropics is a far cry from sunny beaches, gentle ocean breezes and the ubiquitous sun tan lotion that defines so many contemporary tropical fragrances. Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn is the scent of an alternative equatorial universe – an olfactory vision of overripe fruits and narcotic night blooming flowers, of dense humidity, stillness and vegetative transpiration, of forest floors deeply covered in dark leaf mold, humus, crushed petals and bruised plant life.
Henri Rousseau The Lion's Repast©
The perfumer's genius for recreating olfactory images of the world around us is evident in her evocative Scents of Place – Olympic Rainforest, Salamanca and Café V, to name but a few. Ellen Covey's unique ability to amplify nature is showcased in her 2013 creation Tropic of Capricorn. Using all natural botanical materials she draws our attention and focuses our concentration on the beauty of the Raw and the Real. Tropic of Capricorn does not shy away from the lush or steamy but, from the very first, lets us know, in no uncertain terms that – "…we're not in Kansas anymore!"
Dr. Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids Perfumes
Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn opens with juicy, overripe mangos, suffused with peachy osmanthus and a furry, animalic tincture of Africa stone from the hyrax. From the very first breath, Tropic of Capricorn, like her sister scent Olympic Orchids Sonnet XVII, features the fruity, creamy floral bouquet of osmanthus (sweet tea olive).
Jungle Night by Henri Rousseau
This initial steamy inspiration stirs all of my senses, not as a limited synaesthetic response, but rather as an integration of the five sensory dimensions: taste, touch, sound, sight and smell. The opening is something I can only describe as a fragrance-induced sensory alignment. From the beginning, Tropic of Capricorn has the soft, thick, dense texture of patterned velveteen, colored a rich deep brown, shot through with purples and glossy greens, gilded with sheens of gold. These colors and textures are mirrored in the tastes of mangoes and osmanthus, seamlessly blended with ambergris and vanilla.
Alma Brasileira, Choros No 5 by Gail©
This very rich, thick and indolic sensation reaches into something primal and subconscious, evoking a sense of wonder and, at the same time, a distant echo of fear. After about an hour, the tactile introduction slowly thins and blooms into an ethereal impression of white flowers, tuberose, magnolia and jasmine. I find the sound of Tropic of Capricorn is best described by Heitor Villa-Lobos beautiful and haunting piano music, Alma Brasileira, Choros No 5. In this piece the composer uses native rhythms, haunting melodies and rapid, eerie arpeggios to portray the soul of the people, the songs and screams of the animals and the spirits of the jungles of Brazil.
Jungle Sunset © Henri Rousseau
Tropic of Capricorn is one of the few all-natural perfumes that stays with me for any length of time (it was created for a special project sponsored by natural perfumer Lyn Ayre and won first place). After an hour with the opening notes, I linger at the heart for five more before the dark jungle that is Tropic of Capricorn opens into a clearing of ambergris, benzoin and earthy New Caledonian sandalwood. After twelve hours I leave behind my multi-sensory adventures in the Tropic of Capricorn, a token of osmanthus, hyrax and ambergris still floating close to the skin. "For there is only one great adventure and that is inward toward the self, and for that, time nor space nor even deeds matter." – Henry Miller Tropic of Capricorn
Notes: Mango fruit, jasmine, frangipani, tuberose, magnolia, osmanthus, maile vine, Bourbon vanilla, Africa stone, ambergris, benzoin and New Caledonian sandalwood.
Disclaimer: Many thanks to Ellen Covey for my treasured bottle of Tropic of Capricorn. My opinions are my own.
Gail Gross – Senior Editor
Art Direction – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Thanks to Dr. Ellen Covey, we have one 30 ml bottle (perfume concentration) of Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn for one registered reader worldwide. Please be sure to register. To be eligible let us know what appeals to you about Gail's review, where you live and your favorite Olympic Orchids perfume (or one that you would like to try). Draw closes 6/11/2018
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