Niche Perfume Review: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Secrete Datura –Narcotic Mystery + Bewitched Bottle Draw

 Secrete Datura Header CaFleureBon

Datura Flower Close-Up by Nancy Rotenberg

Several years ago, my downtown Nordstrom carried the Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line, along with other interesting, little-known perfumes. I was not yet a full-fledged perfumista, and had not discovered the online community, if it even existed yet. I used to visit the Fine Fragrance Department regularly, exploring these wonders. One day I gravitated toward a pretty bottle with a frosted bas-relief figure of a long-haired woman with lots of flowing drapery all over the bottle. The name, Secrete Datura, was also intriguing.

 

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Repose by Alexander John White

Datura is a fantastic, alluring flower, exuding its aroma mostly at night. What I have often called Datura, the plants with the bell-shaped flowers that hang down, have been separated into a different species called Brugmansia, alas, so I don’t know if I have actually smelled a Datura. Some Brugmansia have a wonderful aroma, though, and I will probably always think of them as Datura anyway. Datura is a hallucinogenic plant that Carlos Castaneda’s mentor, Don Juan, called “the devil’s weed,” with a feminine power: “She is powerful. She distorts men. She makes them weak in the middle of their great power.” It sounds like a Datura perfume would just send you to your knees.

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Datura by Tama Blough

 

When I sprayed that fragrance on my wrist, I did have to go sit down for a while. I had not been as completely and utterly captivated by a perfume since Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, or perhaps Patou Sublime. No, as enamored as I was with Sublime I could wait, asking for some for Christmas. With Secrete Datura, I had to have some at that moment. I think the sales associate saw my desperation, because she whispered to me, “We have it in a purse spray for twenty dollars.” I was elated, and took that little bottle home. I didn’t care one whit that I wasn’t getting the big pretty bottle; it was all about the perfume.

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Sacred Datura by Joseph Holmes

  

I wore it when I went out with my mother one fine sunny day and asked her what she thought. She said, “It just smells like you.” I liked that answer, because that was how I felt, too; that this was how I should smell. I knew better than to try to wear it every day and lose the magic. I wore it when I wanted to weave a spell around myself, and cast a fragrant net to bring others nearer.

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A Summer Morning by Rupert Bunny

 

Secrete Datura perfume is one I would categorize as a narcotic floral, but it is not dark. The opening is a little sharp and green, with a hint of the depth to come. After a few moments, the heady aroma of the datura surfaces and settles in. I have seen the list of notes, but to me, this is not a perfume to dissect. Perfumer Jean Laporte blended it too skillfully; to take it apart would be like cutting slices in the Mona Lisa to see the depth of the paint. This is a perfume to feel and enjoy and, as some of us like to say, “swan around in.” When I wear this at home, I swan, I lounge, I become languid. When I wear it into the world, I swan, I cast glances at handsome men with half-lids, I appreciate the blue sky. I live.

I have shared this perfume with many of my friends. I could be greedy and keep it to myself, but I am in too much wonder to not let everyone smell this perfume. It has come to be associated with me, even by those who have never smelled me wearing it. When I mentioned that I was wearing it the other day, one of my dear online friends said, “That scent always makes me feel like that's how you would smell if we ever got to hug each other.” When I finally get to hug her, I will be wearing it.

Secrete Datura Bottles - draw prize CaFleureBon

Notes: Top notes are lily-of-the-valley, amalfi lemon and heliotrope; middle notes are datura, jasmine, honeysuckle and african orange flower; base notes are sandalwood, iris, mexican chocolate and vanille. (per Parfum1)

Thanks to the lovely people at EuroPerfumes (the U.S distributor for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier) we have a 3.3 oz  bottle of Secrete Datura  Leave a comment about  your favorite Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fragrance or what fragrance you wear when you "swan around". The draw will end on January 12, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Tama Blough, Senior Editor 

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94 comments

  • I think a lot of MPG scents are narcotic florals, especially Secret Melange.

    I loved your personal anecdotes on the article

  • This sounds like a fabulous perfume. A perfume that I own that I consider a narcotic floral is Fracas by Robert Piguet.

  • Paolo Gomez says:

    I love MPG! I have Ambre Precieux and Santal Noble.

    Why wait when you can have 20ml on the dot? Thank you for sharing.

  • I loved how this just hit it off with you Tama.. When you find something that is totally you you are enamored for life. Wonderful article. Thanks for a chance to sniff one of your loves.

  • Tama, loved your Mona Lisa comparison! Sometimes you don’t need to know all of the details to love a scent. Us fragrance folks always feel a need to dissect as though our lives depended on it!

  • Hi Tama, loved the article! These are my favorite flower, and I grow many different kinds, but I have never smelled this perfume!

  • I haven’t really smelled a narcotic floral…I guess the closest one I can think of is another datura…Serge Lutens Datura noir… This one sounds interesting.

  • Oh, I love trumpet flowers and have had both Burgmansia and Datura in my garden. Unfortunately, I have never had any of the really fragrant varieties. I agree that Fracas is one of the truly narcotic florals.

  • What a walk down memory lane as I remember searching for Maitre et Parfumeur vocalises which was my first niche perfume
    Lovely review and art
    It’s nice to know the formula hasn’t changed and I am off to read that interview
    Jean Laporte was a genius

  • Great review! I love few of MeG fragrances: Ambre Dore, Ambre Precieux, Cuir Fetiche, iris Bleu Gris and I am crazy in love with Magnolia Pourpre. I have never tried Secrete Datura, but it sounds like something I must have.

  • linda beth ross says:

    I love perfumes like this!!! I would say the perfume I most swan around in is Carnal Flower. Great review Tama!!!!

  • I immediately thought of Tauer’s Loretta… if that isn’t narcotic I don’t know what is! Tama I really enjoyed this review and I’m so happy that you have found a perfume that smells “you” =)

  • Janet in California says:

    Wonderful article! I can’t remember the last review that made me crave something more.

    Tuberose Criminalle makes me swan.

  • This was an amazingly evocative review, Tama! The best part for me was that sense of ‘oh, yes! I get that!’ when you described how it’s not a perfume to dissect. There are a couple I feel thus about: Mitsouko (don’t care how it came to be. It Just Is. Jubilation 25 is another. When one finds ‘those’ types of scents I find it completely unnecessary to dissect. In fact, I refuse to do so, fearing that dissection will somehow ‘release’ the magical hold they have on me.

    Oh! You asked for my favorite MPyG: ’tis Cuir Fetiche, which I adore!

    And I swan every day, which irritates El O no end!

    xoxoxoA

  • Beautifully written! It is so comforting to have a fragrance that resonates so well and always seems right for any occasion. I am a big fan of Cuir Fetiche and Ambre Precioux.

  • I’ve never tried any MPG fragrances. My favorite fume to swan around in – Vanille Gallante. Thanks!

  • I don’t have much experience with the MPG fragrances, which is one reason why I’d love to get to know this one. My favorite “swanning” scent has been Tea for Two (L’Artisan), which I should have saved for special occasions, since now it’s unavailable, but I knowing it would have to run out one day, decided I would be my own special occasion. Now it’s all gone! 🙁
    It was worth it though. 😉

  • LOVE this review Tama!! I don’t think I have tried any MPG frags. Sometimes I like to Swan around in SL de Profundis.

  • Such a great, enthusiastic post – thanks! Ambre Precieux is my favorite MPG so far and I’m a big fan of fragrant swanning, particularly big wafty clouds of Shalimar.

  • God, I must have this based on your description! I’ve yet to try an MPG frag but I enjoy swanning around in Labdanum 18 by Le Labo.

  • My favorite MPG, as of late, is Ambre Precieux! The one you described sounds enticing! I usually “swan” around in something heavy, like Lyric W

  • Oh I would love to have a bottle of this! It’s just the kind of languid white floral I love, and my precious sample is no more.

    I enjoy swanning around in femme fatale type perfumes when I don’t have to worry about what anyone else thinks. Lelong pour Femme, vintage Caron Parfum Sacre, Bal a Versailles and Tubereuse Criminelle are all excellent for this purpose.

  • I haven’t tried Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier yet so I want to win this! Coincidentally I wear Datura Noir for swanning around.

  • My favorite MPG has to be Soie Rouge I love the way they bring the carnation to life. The article was so interesting i love your mom’s comment how it just smelled like you. Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • My favorite MPG is Ambre Precieux, and my “swan around” perfume is SL A la Nuit. Thanks for the great article and for the draw!

  • I haven’t heard anyone use the phrase ‘swan around ‘outside a book and I love it. I’d say my swan around perfume is Tubereuse Criminelle. I do feel myself showing off in it.

  • My favourite datura scent is SL Datura Noir. So far, my favourite MPG has been Cuir Fetiche. For swanning around, I wear Fracas.

  • Two of my favorite narcotic florals are Carnal Flower and Flor Azteca.Secrete Datura sounds amazing.Thanks for the draw!

  • Wonderful essay! I am unfamiliar with MPG, but the fragrances sound gorgeous.

    My swan around scent would be SL Tubereuse Criminelle.

  • Beautiful story
    I “swan”arround when wearing Lutens’ “Ambre Sultan”
    thanks for the draw

  • This sounds amazing. I’m not sure that I really have any perfume I swan around in, although perhaps Evening Edged in Gold comes closest. One way or another, I must try this one!

  • I have not had the chance to try MPG yet. Will have to do something about that, I think. When it comes to swanning, Tubéreuse Criminelle is my scent of choice.

    Thanks!

  • Tama your review was a delight to read. Datura is one of these rare flowers that are a complete and perfect perume on their own. My ideal floral would be an exact replica of the blossom which smells like exalted human skin. Its aroma is subtle and transparent, green tinged and yet persistent and yes, narcotic. It has very little diffusion but I guess this is how it draws you closer. I have never tried the MPeG Datura and I had no idea they had bottles different than the standard line. Are these still around?
    My favorite MPeG is Iris Bleu Gris

  • Amer, I’m sure you can find the frosted bottle here and there, but I am mostly seeing the traditional MPG bottle online.

  • Oh yes, swanning….to be indulged in usually when alone and with good hair!
    I would have thought that such a classic activity would go well with a Guerlain, vintage.
    I also am considering Loretta and Miriam, though they are not yet sniffed.
    Datura sounds movie star.

  • The only MPG I’ve tried so far is Cuir Fetiche, which I like very much. I don’t think I’ve ever smelled datura, either in nature or in a perfume. The narcotic aspect makes me think of Opium; the original was a wonderful, languid, half-lidded marvel.

  • just breathe says:

    It must be fantastic finding a perfume that is “just you”! (I haven’t accomplished that yet 🙂 !).
    I have only tired Cuir Fetishe which is pretty good.
    Thanks for the generous draw!

  • just breathe says:

    meant to say “tried” not “tired” and forgot to add that I loved your artwork, Tama 🙂 !!

  • Oh MPG!! For summertime, Bahiana is just perfect and colder days demand the classic and gorgeous Ambre Precieux…
    Secrete Datura is just narcotic..Thanks for the draw!!

  • I enjoyed this article! I wish that instant love of a scent
    came along more often…
    I swan around in Guerlain Vol de Nuit.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • I love those narcotic florals! I don’t know if datura is the same flower as Angel’s Trumpet, but I recently discovered the latter and I wish I could bottle that fragrance, it was so beautiful. Unfortunately I haven’t tried many MPG fragrances the only one I tried was Ambre Precieux and I like it a lot. My swanning around fragrance is Shalimar. Thank you for this review and draw!

  • Mmm! That perfume sounds positively delightful! I would love to smell a hug 😉

    For swanning around I usually choose a scent that is red fruits, patchouli and musk. That combo in perfumes normally gives me a sexy vibe that people lean in and give me long hugs to catch a wift of.

  • I’m sorry that I don’t know the MPG line at all, but your writing certainly makes me want to sniff, especially this one. I’m not sure I have a swanning around fragrance yet, but Cuir de Lancome always makes me sigh. Does that count?

  • Tama, thanks for a wonderful review. Immediate lemming!

    My favorite MPG scent is George Sand. I swan about in The Party in Manhattan and over-the-top costume jewelry, usually huge sparkly bracelets.

  • I love many MPG fragrances – AMBRE PRÉCIEUX,EAU DU GANTIER, IRIS BLEU GRIS, but have never smelled Secrete Datura.

    I mostly “lounge” in Rose fragrances.

    Thanks for the draw

  • Tama, what a lovely review! It happens that Secrete Datura is my favorite MPG too. Once I was about to buy a bottle but I chose Nombril Immense.

    Thanks fot the draw!

  • The only MPG I’ve tried is the amber, which I like very much. And the only datura scent I’ve tried is the Lutens – fun upscale suntan lotion scent!

  • This is another house that I haven’t had the opportunity to sniff. I feel compelled to run out and sniff this particular scent after reading this review! My favourite scent for swanning around right now is Ormonde Jayne Tolu. Thank you for the draw.

  • I have never tried any fragrances from this line, but this one sounds lovely, and I really like to try it. M favorite scent for swanning around is Chanel #19 Poudre.

  • MPG’s Tubereuse is unsarpassable according to my opinion! I simply love it! My favourite perfume for swanning around nowadays is Iris Ganache! Thank yo for the draw!

  • The only MPG I own is Fleur de Comores. I have read great reviews about Ambre Precieux. Datura Noir sounds like a good one too.
    Sometimes I like to swan around in L’Air du Desert Morocaine or L’Occitane Amber.

  • Tama, your reviews could become somewhat addictive! Cleverly said throughout I really loved the description of Secrete Datura “to take it apart would be like cutting slices in the Mona Lisa to see the depth of the paint.” when discussing the notes. Datura always has the air of forbidden fruit, in this case flowers , So bring in the Swan and the deep blue sky and partner up with Secrete Datura!

  • There’s no perfume that makes me swan around like Histoires des Parfumes Tubereuse Animale! And I’m so hooked on it. I do have very tender feelings toward MPG line, however, especially their Cuir Fetiche.

  • I like MPG Magnolia Pourpre. My favourite perfume for swanning around is Etoile de Holland by Monia di Orio

  • I’m not familiar with MPG scents., but I can tell you I love to swan around wearing Donna Karan Gold, graceful and warm, it’s elegant without being totally restrained.

  • I don’t know this line! I must know more!

    Lovely review, and awesome question: I’ve enjoyed the answers to this one. Me, I love to swan in Shalimar.

    Thanks for the draw. 🙂

  • The only MPG that I know is Tubereuse, it’s not my favourite Tubereuse but as a lover of this flower I admit is well done but when I want to swan around I wear Carnal Flower. (even it’s not very confortable on my skin…)

  • As a guy, I like to swan in a few different fragrances. Nothing comes close to how Jeux de Peau makes me feel though. Weird, huh?

  • You have a way with words. I’m a guy and I’m actually tempted to get a whiff of this stuff just to better understand what you’re talking about. Thanks for the good read.

  • What a lovely draw! It’s so nice of you to share this fragrance with us Tama.

    I unfortunately haven’t had the chance to test a MPG fragrance yet. However I hope to in the future.

    When ‘swanning around’, I like to wear the ever so casual and comfortable Narciso Rodriguez Essence. It’s very soothing to my nose and mind.

  • You make this perfume sound absolutely heavenly! I love that imagery of swanning around. Allure by Chanel is the perfume where my mother said, “It smells like you.” So, I can relate to that comment. That being said, I do not swan around in that fragrance. Lately, I have been finding myself swanning around in etat libre d’orange Noel au Balcon. On me it smells enticing, spicy, florally, and gorgeous. Wearing it I have a secret that no one else shares.

  • A narcotic floral? Yes! Thanks for the beautiful review, recommendation and draw Tama! I really like Iris Bleu Gris by MPG. The perfume I swan around in most is Roses Musk by Montale. It’s not the only one, but it’s a grand one!

  • I have not tried any Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances before. I would say I swan around when I wear Narciso Rodriguez For Her. It’s just so lovely & enjoyable.

  • My favourite MPG perfume is Ambre Precieux.
    But this one sounds like it just make the MPG throne – love the sound of those notes. 🙂

  • I would love to smell datura. I am a new natural perfume fanatic.so much to smell such little time:)

  • Great review, Tama! Absolutely wonderful writing. I’ve only smelled a couple from this line, but so far my favorite is Ambre Precieux. I’m trying to think if I ever swan around; I’ll have to try it soon.

  • Tama, really great review! I am dying to try this one now. My favorite from this line is Ambre Precieux and I haven’t tried many in the line. 🙂

  • A narcotic floral- sounds amazing! When I swan around I wear Amaranthine, but I would love to try it with Secrete Datura. Beautiful review, Tama!

  • Lovely review. I’ve never tried a MPG scent so this one sounds like a lovely way to dip into the line. For swanning around, I like to wear Fracas or Tolu by Ormonde Jayne. 🙂

  • My very first MPG was eau de camelia chinois in 1995, I wore it all through college. Next on my list to try is cuir fetiche.

  • Thank you for this draw. For swanning around, I would say I like floral fragrances with a summery feel. I think Fleurs Comores sounds perfect from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. Thank you.

  • I haven’t had the fortune of trying any MPG; also I don’t really swan around as lately I’m just always home with my babies. But I’d love to win this and wear it to feel like I’m swanning around 🙂

  • Connor McDonald says:

    haha… swan around. like it

    i’d have to say I swan in Musc25 by Le Labo… at first people question my wearing it since it smells like a grandma, but after settling into my skin, it becomes “mine”. i oen it. and love casting it around the room.

    thanks for the unique draw. i’ve always wondered the way datura smells.

  • Parfum d’Habit is my favourite. It seems that I like combination of leather and patchouli. For “swan around”? Kinski is perfect for it!