My favorite time of year is the two to three weeks in late April to early May when the lilacs are in bloom. Ever since I have been a child, these flowers have enchanted, intrigued and even transported me. Ineke Ruhland has a way of capturing flowers, with all their myriad wonders, in perfume form. After My Own Heart is the perfect title for this scent because, on my very first sniff, it was like Eros himself shot a golden shaft through my heart. Those couple weeks when these magical flowers burst forth and blossom are the perfect time of year; both in terms of temperature and energy. Heavenly fragrant clusters of flowers hang heavy and sing like a perfect chorus of springtime on those sunny days. After the crocus has gone and the daffodil has faded, the lilacs let us know summer is inching ever closer, but a few cool nights could remain.

From picking these flowers as a child and presenting them to my mother to taking a wicker basket out “midnight lilacing” in college to fill my room with them to planting two white dwarf Korean lilacs outside my bedroom window a couple years ago…my fascination with these amazing flowers has never waned. There is something divine about a flower that smells refreshingly green and amazingly floral, yet also has an aroma of slightly nutty sweetness and whispers of silken powder, Ms Ruhland has captured and recreated every aspect of this flower. I have many lilac perfumes but,  After My Own Heart is different from all the others. Most lilac scents are rather intense and extremely sweet (Yves Rocher’s Pur Desir de Lilas, Highland Lilac of Rochester and yes, En Passant by Fredric Malle) and this captures the sublime balance between sensual and sweet, while remaining sheer and verdant.

Purple Lilac Spring by Yulia Kazansky (2013)

One of my earliest (and fondest) teenage memories of lilacs is my first lover (and also my best friend) growing up; how he used to throw freshly picked lilacs in my open window to let me know he was thinking of me and (at least to me) lilacs say LOVE more than orchids, or even roses do. There is an aura of purity, yet still something amazingly sensual about these bunches of tiny blossoms composed of thousands of flowers with four simple petals that make me feel revitalized and youthful again. Just this weekend, I was driving through the hills of southwest PA along the rivers and the air smelled of rain approaching, green leaves and lilacs on the wind. After My Own Heart is not, like many other lilac perfumes, a soliflore (perfume consisting only of one major flower) nor is it linear; though the lilac does saunter through it from start to finish. Now that the Lilac Time is here, I have drenched myself in this wonderful scent and simply must share my joy and admiration.

Opening with a slightly fruity twist of raspberry, bitter bergamot and leafy green notes, this captures the freshness of spring and the sunny, yet not oppressively hot, feeling of this season. The sun is shining, sweet flowers are blooming and lush new growth is everywhere.  The lilac, at the heart of this perfume, is pure and exhilarating. No other floral notes muddy its simple elegant beauty. I have read that the heavenly aroma of these gorgeous flowers is not able to be rendered through enfleurage or even steam distillation, and thus most lilac oils are synthetic in nature. Whatever Ms Ruhland has used here sure smells like a real lilac bush to my nose! The soft sweetness of the flowers is laid over subtle woody undertones with a velvety almond-like aroma. I personally know of the dark lilac (deep violet/purple, often called Persian lilac), common lilac (light violet petals) and French lilac (a pale light purple to white double-flowered cultivar). This smells like a breathtaking blend of all three!!

Throughout wearing this perfume, I am amazed with its longevity. The substances used to simulate lilac (syringa vulgaris) in most perfumes usually begin beautifully, and fizzle by the drydown; often times reverting to their synthetic nature and dry a bit “generic” or chemical…not so here! A constant warm vernal breeze continues to swirl around you, revealing its beguiling blend of freshness and enchanting sexiness. Soft powdery caresses, light teasing kisses of delicious nuttiness and a woody green embrace that is as gentle as it is strong make this perfumista feel like I have touched and been touched deeply by Mother Nature.

Lilac Lovers by Borbrova

My mind remembers running barefoot on warm soft new grass, frolicking with other kids, sun shining on us, as we laughed and played. It also brings to mind lying in the same grass (freshly picked lilacs scattered all about us) in the arms of that one who you could never forget and will always love, no matter what. After My Own Heart encapsulates everything springtime and lilacs are to me: new fresh innocence, first love, endless possibilities and growing in a new direction after a cold and dark time.

Cross-Section of Lilacwood

In the deep drydown we have sandalwood reinforcing the woodiness of the branches on which the flowers grow. Lilac wood is close-grained and one of the densest woods in Europe and has been used for frames, crafts and musical instruments for centuries. The use of soft sandalwood, here, gives it a slightly exotic feel and dovetails with the powdery floral nuances perfectly. Heliotrope adds to that powdery depth, without smelling like pure talc, and also exudes its tantalizing nut-like aroma; yet, this is neither an oriental nor even remotely gourmand.

Deep beneath the blossoms and cool leaves, a sheer but solid musk lightly covers the whole creation like evening dew falling sensuously on flower, wood and leaf alike, at the end of the perfect late spring day. This scent is aptly named. It is a perfume that touches my own heart, awakens fond memories and stirs my soul. It is reminiscent of youth, warms my spirit, recaptures the feeling (and aromas) of my first love and coalesces sensuality and freshness with elegance and panache. If you love lilacs, or even just appreciate their aroma and beauty, I urge you to give this a sniff. Take it from a lifelong lilac lover…you’ll be glad you did! Sillage: average to slightly above. Longevity: above average to good.

Ineke Ruhland

There may be other “truer” more expensive lilac perfumes (soliflores), but this particular Eau de Parfum captures and brings out all the inherent delightful beauty of the flower itself and just so happens to bring to life, through its masterfully blended secondary notes, my favorite time of year and captures more than just the scent of lilacs…it captures their energy and paints a provocative picture of their mystic essence. Thank you, Ineke Ruhland!! 

Disclosure: Review based on a sample sent to me by INeKE Perfumer, San Francisco.

Thanks to Ineke we have a draw for full bottle of After My Own Heart for our US readers ONLY. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Ineke fragrance or what flower evokes Spring to you. The draw will end on May 18, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-John Reasinger, Senior Editor