The Tom Ford Private Collection perfume line was launched with twelve fragrances in 2007. One of the perfumes in that collection, Neroli Portofino by perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux, was repackaged into a alluring teal glass bottle in 2011, with accompanying body products. This summer, two scents have been added to the Neroli Portifino family, Mandarino di Amalfi by Calice Becker, and Costa Azzura by Yann Vasnier. Each has its own beautiful glass bottle in colors that coordinate with Neroli Portofino.
Neroli Portofino ad
I'm a huge fan of a good neroli-based cologne, and Neroli Portofino is a lush, sophisticated version. Designed to capture the cool waters and lush vegetation of the Italian Riviera, Neroli Portofino is cologne in an Eau de Parfum concentration, which adds to the oomph and longevity. I enjoy the floral elements of this upbeat fragrance that has a bit of earthy sweetness and greenery in the heart. The drydown is soft, with a hint of warmth lightly tinged with blossomy citrus. I like the idea of the body products, too. They are more affordable, so you can enjoy the fragrance, just not with the same strength or longevity. 5 oz. of body spray is $65, with similar price points for the others.
Rodrigo Flores-Roux of Givaudan
Notes: Bergamot, lemon, mandarin, lavender, myrtle, rosemary, bitter orange, Egyptian jasmine, neroli, orange blossom water, pittosporum, woody amber accord, ambrette seeds, angelica root
Mandarino di Amalfi and Costa Azzarra ad
Mandarine di Amalfi, by perfumer Calice Becker, is a tribute to the serene cliffside villas on the Amalfi coast, has a tender citrus opening that is juicy and sweet. As the other notes emerge, it becomes less tender and bolder in nature thanks to pepper and other spices. At this stage, the perfume has a period of unbridled exhibitionism, and then sinks into skin like a caress. The skin-scent left behind, harboring a bit of civet and musk, is softly sensuous. Anyone searching for a cologne-style scent that is less bracing and a bit softer will do well to try this one.
Notes: Tarragon, mint, black currant, grapefruit, lemon, spearmint oil, and basil, black pepper, coriander, orange blossom, clary sage, shiso, jasmine, vetiver, amber, labdanum, musk, and civet
Yann Vasnier, Sr Perfumer at Givaudan
Costa Azzurra, by Yann Vasnier was inspired by the island woods and salty, beachy aromas of the island of Sardinia, is both herbal and oceanic, quite a switch from the citrus and florals of Neroli Portofino. It veers more to the masculine area for me and although it is quite nicely done, is not in my wheelhouse. It has a sharp, bracing quality that has a delightful complexity, thanks to some unusual notes like lentisque and seaweed. The drydown is wonderfully salty, and I know this will find fans
Notes: Seaweed, driftwood, agarwood (oud), ambrette (musk mallow), celery seeds and cardamom, juniper, myrtle, lavender, lemon, yellow mandarin and artemisia, mastic or lentisque, olibanum, incense, vanilla, vetiver and oak
Tom Ford
Tom Ford has been on a roll lately, introducing great scents into both his Signature line (Sahara Noir last year) and the Private Blends (Atelier D’Orient Collection.from last year as well) I will be looking forward to reviewing Velvet Orchid from his signature line and what comes next from Private Blends.
My samples were provided by the Tom Ford counter at Nieman Marcus SF. Mandarine di Amalfi and Costa Azzurra are available at Neiman Marcus and other Tom Ford stockists.
Tama Blough, Managing Director