New Perfume Review: Thierry Mugler Parfums Les Exceptions – Over the Musk, Chyprissime, Oriental Express, Fougère Furieuse, and Supra Floral + Homage to Perfume Tradition Draw

mugler les exceptions oilivier polge jean-chritophe herault cafleurebon

Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Herault

Thierry Mugler Parfums is mostly known for their iconic perfume Angel, and the other signature fragrances Alien, Womanity, and Amen. Occasionally they will introduce a new collection that is luxe and exclusive (like the Miroir Miroir collection which was first launched in 2007). This year they are releasing a series of five fragrances, Les Exceptions, that are quite interesting: Oriental Express, Chyprissime, Fougère Furieuse, Supra Floral, and Over the Musk. As the names may suggest, each fragrance pays respect to a particular classic genre of perfume: Oriental, chypre, fougere, musk and floral. The perfumes were created by Olivier Polge (who is now at CHANEL with his father Jacques Polge) and Jean-Christophe Herault.

mugler les exceptions its a wonderful night for a fern dance cafleurebon

"It's a Marvelous Night for a Fern Dance", quilt by Vyvyn Emery

Of the five Les Exceptions, two of the fragrances, Fougère Furieuse and Over the Musk surprised me by being my favorites although neither of those categories are ones that I would normally gravitate to. I don't think I own a fougère, and I am anosmic to quite a few musk scents. It was really delightful to find Over the Musk to be very wearable, very noticeable, and quite a nice soft animalic. It is made with ambrette seed, which is an excellent botanical musk, whichis probably why I can smell it. It has the powdery quality I enjoy in a musk scent, and that powder sits above a nice helping of almost sweet, sensual musk aromas. Fougère Furieuse is a green, herbal, fragrance that has a soft woody quality that keeps it from being harsh or overtly in the masculine range. It's fresh without being clean, just a lush patch of woodland with a floor of wildflowers, ferns and moss, and a touch of sweetness at the end.

Mugler les Exceptions black forest crow spirit

"Black Forest Crow Spirit" by Danny (carp3noct3m)

Representing an important perfume genre, Chyprissime was ultimately not for me, although I think Chypre fans will enjoy it. It has a quietude on the skin that flies in the face of its rather large projection. It's very nicely done; I'm just very particular about chypres. Essential to any perfume collection is a big woody fragrance like Oriental Express. I like it better than Chyprissime, and I believe it might grow on me over time, but on my skin it seems incomplete, as if it needs a dab of wild honey. That is my opinion; fans of deep wood scents will most likely adore this one.

mugler les exceptions sesf portrait lucien freud

"Self-Portrait with Hyacinth in a Pot" by Lucien Freud

I love the name Supra Floral; it gives me the impression of hyper-realistic blooms captured in fragrance. The flower singled out for this perfume is hyacinth, and it's great, but something in the composition is presenting as a bit bitter, which appears in the early inhalations. Otherwise, it's a dandy floral, with lively accents of greenery.

mugler les exceptions bottles in a row cafleurebon

Deco-inspired Les Exceptions bottles

What I really enjoy about Les Exceptions is their layering potential, and I would love to see a coffret of all of them. Oriental Express with Chyprissime, topped with Supra Floral creates a great complexity on skin; Fougere Furieuse and a dab of Over the Musk is interesting and a whole new animal. I am really missing a good citrus in the collection; I have all heart and base, with my only top choice the Supra Floral. I am sitting here all coated in all five, and I have to say I smell pretty amazing.

I do not have official notes lists, but click the link in red in the first paragraph for press release information,

My samples were provided by Thierry Mugler USA. The Les Exceptions collection will be availalbe online and in limited distribution at select Nordstrom stores starting end of September: Miami Aventura, LA South Coast Plaza and Chicago Michigan Avenue. Price is 80 ml for $225. All bottles are refillable.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

 We have a deluxe sample set to give away to one reader residing in the US. Leave a comment letting us know which of these appeals to you, and your favorite Thierry Mugler fragrance. Draw closes July 17, 2014

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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34 comments

  • Sfsassyjen says:

    I am really excited to try these. Oriental express sounds the most promising to me. I have FB of all the other scents in the mirror collection. I think they are fantastic!

  • Gillian says:

    Over the Musk appeals to me the most. My favorite Thierry Mugler is Angel Liqueur. I live in the US. Thank you. 🙂

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    My favorite TM is Alien, in all its different forms. Oriental Express sounds right up my alley… I was very sad to miss the Miroirs collection, so would love to be able to try this collection. Thank you for the draw, I am in the US.

  • Jessica Marie says:

    I am known on perfume forums as a die hard Thierry Mugler fan even though they by many, they are among the most hated scents. I have the Miroir Collection, part of the Le Perfum coffret based on the movie “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer”, almost every Alien/Angel/Womanity flanker in existence, and when I heard about their new releases I was frustrated! None of them appealed to me, there was no eccentric yet genius combination, no loud yet cold white floral, they all seemed boring based on notes alone and for the first time ever I wasn’t chewing at the bit to try the latest Mugler creations. This review changed my mind! I do not own anything similar to Fougère Furieuse and Over the Musk, I find most quite bland or generic, but perhaps I just haven’t found the right one for me and if anyone was going to do that it would be TM so I would love to enter for the chance to be able to sample these on my own. Thank you!

  • Steve A says:

    Over the Musk is the one I’d like to try first.
    My favorite from the line is Sunessence. U.S.

  • Andi says:

    Oriental Expres intrigues me the most. I love cologne and Les parts des Anges. I live in the US. Thanks!!

  • DavidK says:

    I am a huge fan of hyacinths so my ears always perk up when I hear it is part of a fragrance. One of my favorites during the summer time is Cologne. I live in the US and thanks for the draw!

  • The Perfumed Veil says:

    The Oriental will be my favorite, I am sure. I love Mugler’s creativity. There is always new stuff coming out. I have many favorites but my all time favorite is Miroir des Voluptes. I’m in the US.

  • Poodle says:

    I’m dying to find a good hyacinth so Supra Floral has caught my eye. I love almost anything Mugler. Angel was my favorite but I actually find myself wearing Womanity a lot. I’m in the US.

  • Vlada says:

    My favorite Thierry Mugler fragrance is Alien.I would love to try Oriental Express.
    Thank you for the draw!
    US

  • JillM says:

    I am looking forward to trying Over the Musk, I like anamalic musk notes in perfume. My favorite TM scent is Womanity the Taste of Fragrance. I am in the US.

  • Connie says:

    Over the Musk appeals most to me, and my favorite Thierry Mugler fragrance is Alien Essence Absolue. I’m in the US.

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    I would choose to try Supra Floral – my favorite Thierry Mugler is Alien (I love it!). I live in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • carol w says:

    Would love a coffret as well. I would love to try Fougère Furieuse. Probably my favorite is Angel. I’m in the US.

  • Liz K says:

    My favorite Thierry Mugler is Alien with Womanity coming in a close second. I am curious to try Supra Floral, can’t nosemagine it at all and I’m sure I would give Chyprissime a fair chance. I am in the US. Thanks

  • Susan24 says:

    I own many Thierry Mugler perfumes and my favorites were from the taste of leather and liquor collections. These sound quite different and fougere furiouse and supra floral appeal to me.

  • Dana says:

    I really like A*men and sometimes I’m in the mood for Womanity. I also love Cologne on a hot summer day. These all sound interesting, but I think I might like Over The Musk the best. I’m in the U.S. Thank you.

  • Neil L says:

    I believe I would really like Oriental Express, given Orientals are my favorite scent category. My favorite Mugler is A*Men Pure Havane. I live in the U.S.

  • jiminy says:

    Fougère Furieuse reads like the one that lines up more with my tastes. My favorite Mugler – although I don’t wear it – is Alien.

    I’m located in the US.

  • Amy says:

    Over the Musk appeals to me because ambrette seed is a favorite note. Don’t have a favorite Thierry Mugler perfume yet–I enjoy Alien on others, but don’t like to wear it myself.

  • Tiffanie says:

    Fougere Furieuse sounds like a beautiful scent that would be fun to layer with Supra Floral. I love Alien’s jasmine. I am in the US.

  • sllat says:

    I’m most interested in Over the Musk… I’m a sucker for a good animalic scent. I think Angel and Alien are both interesting and well done, but they are not “me.” All of the fragrances in this new series sound worth a sniff for sure!
    Thank you for the chance to win this sample pack. I live in the U.S.

  • SAntonio says:

    I think I would like Fougère Furieuse. My current favorite Mugler fragrance is Pure Malt.

  • Dee says:

    Oriental Express and Over the Musk sound equally appealing. My favorite Thierry Mugler fragrance is Womanity.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Fougere Fourieuse seems the right choice given the weather and there are certain fougere fragrances i really enjoy, thus, it may join that list..my favorite mugler fragrance is Angel extrait. I am in the US

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    I would like to try Over the Musk as I don’t think I have ever been “wowed” by any musk fragrances. They tend to disappear on me. It would be nice to find one that actually is nice. Also, I’d like to experience the floral. I’m always looking for a nice floral. I am in the US and am always appreciative of the draws. Thanks!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    It’s appealing that they took classic olfactory families and stripped them to the core, then brought in an ingredient that is not normally used in that family group, to give it an unusual twist. I hope they smell more refined, smooth and classy than the other Mugler frangrances (which I find too loud). I think I would like Supra Floral best.

  • Nemo says:

    My favorite TM perfume is the cologne, though I am also fond of Alien. I’d be especially interested in trying Fougere Furieuse, which sounds absolutely wonderful. I am in the US.

  • Carole Fallon says:

    I would love to try the Fougere Furieuse! It sounds wonderful. My favorite Mugler is Angel, and I am in the US.

  • Holly F. says:

    My favorite Mugler is Angel Les Parfums de Cuir. I am very interested in Over the Musk, as I’m a bit obsessed with musks and because Tama was impressed with this one… it is a must try! Thanks. I’m in the U.S.

  • mim says:

    Fougère Furieuse and Oriental Express sound like my top two–they all sound lovely! The Mugler Coffret scents from Perfume are my favorites, especially Aura, Virgin, and Orgie.

  • Laurels says:

    I may be too late for the draw, but oh, well. My favorite Thierry Muglers so far are Alien and its Absolue. I think I’d like the Oriental Express the best of the new range, but anything TM is worth trying–even the ones I can’t quite wear, I enjoy smelling.