New Perfume Review: Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina (Sylvaine Delacourte) 2016 + Neo-Classicism Draw

Sylvaine Delacourte of Sylvaine Delacourte Fragrances

Late last autumn, fragrance lovers were delighted to discover the launch of a new range of five perfumes centered around musk. They were created by industry superstar Sylvaine Delacourte whom Master Perfumer (and recipient of the prestigious Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres) Maurice Roucel described as “One of the best creative directors I have ever worked with…”(in his interview with our Editor-in-Chief, Michelyn Camen). All the fragrances were beautiful but I was especially drawn to Florentina, a gorgeous tribute to a scent memory from Sylvaine’s childhood.

Before creating her own line, Mme. Delacourte was highly regarded for her work as the Director Of Fragrance Evaluation and Development with the venerable Parisian Maison Guerlain (alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain and Thierry Wasser), and had a crucial role in bringing us some of the most iconic perfumes of the past ten years, to wit; Insolence (and flankers), Acqua Allegoria Figue-Iris, L’Instant Magic, Quand Vient La Pluie, Guerlain Homme, and so many others.

George Lawrence Bulleid – At the Fountain©

All of the five new perfumes released in the new collection are wonderful, but Florentina,  a stunning powdery iris-musk, was the one that absolutely swept me off my feet.

Girl with Laurel Headband. George Lawrence Bulleid (English,1858-1933)

Iris Florentina is a sub-species of iris that grows in the countryside surrounding Florence Italy, and its form is celebrated all around Florence with a Fleur-De-Lys style symbol on the city flag and buildings among others. The symbol has been in existence since Florence was founded in 59 BC by the Roman Empire. To honor the Roman goddess Flora, the new city was named after both its founder Florinus da Cellino, and the word Florentia (Latin for flowering).

George Lawrence Bulleid – Before the Bath

Florentina is Mme. Delacourte’s fragrant tribute to the scent of baby powder from her youth in northern France, and a stunning tribute it is. The idea of scent-memory has always been fascinating to me, that ability of certain scents to transport one back in time so throughly. Recently I asked Sylvaine about her own childhood scent-memories which provide the basis of this fantastic perfume:“Perfume is the most intense form of memory. I grew up in the north of France, near Lille, and Florentina is the result of my personal memories that I had from seven years of age and beyond. The face powder of my mother, the iris smell, the exquisite smell of the violet that my father gave me each week when it was the season, the smell of almond blended with vanilla from the pancakes cooked by my grandmother.

Robert’s Borotalco talcum Vintage ad

To provide tension to the fragrance, I chose vetiver which has a hazelnut smell, in honor of a hazelnut tree which was in our garden.  The carnation note I think came from Youth Dew, my mothers’ perfume of choice. Then the smell of babies talcum powder is also important for me, it is the starting point of this creation. I love all the smells of talc, especially the Robert’s Borotalco talcum that comes from Italy.” (Note: Roberts Borotalco is still widely available online.)  -Sylvaine Delacourte

Carina by George Lawrence Bulleid             

All of these memories coalesce into a singular perfume that is beautifully blended using the finest ingredients, and we are gifted with a floral and Iris scent with touches of gourmand and a terrific soft musk base. The opening is a bright and fluffy almond note that is reminiscent of opening the door to a favorite bakery or patisserie, the steamy warm air redolent of sweet baking almond biscuits. The musk in the background adds the “fluffy” feeling, freshened by the heliotrope, iris, and violet.

George Lawrence Bulleid A Moment's Rest

The orange blossom lends an orange flower water baking note while the carnation is merely alluded to but present none the less; the vetiver is also amplified which surrounds the scent with the freshness of a garden on a beautiful afternoon. This is a very easy scent to wear for both women and men alike, and it wears very well both in cold weather and warm. When I first tried Florentina last November,  I remember it as a perfect perfume for the holidays, and now in warmer weather the florals are more prominent,  making it extremely accessible as a summer scent.

Notes: Cloves, benzoin, bergamot, iris, lavender, violet, carnation, vetiver, almond, orange blossom, vanilla, white musk, and heliotrope.

Disclosure: Many thanks to Sylvaine Delacourte for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own.

Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

George Lawrence Bulleid Tutt'Art@  Girl With a Lute

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief I used the art of George Bulleid, a Victorian painter best known for his classical style to convey Mme. Delacourte’s fragrances. 

Editor’s Note: I named Sylvaine Delacourte’s new House as the recipient of CaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2016-Michelyn

Thanks to the generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte, we have a 100 ml. Bottle of Florentina for one registered reader In the EU, USA, and Canada

or if you would like the Musc discovery kit that includes Dovana, Florentina, Smerlado, Lilyang (Michelyn’s favorite) and Helicriss.

Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Robert’s review, if you enjoy Iris perfume or a scent-memory from childhood and where you live. Please indicate if you would like to win Florentina or the discovery kit. Draw closes  May 20, 2017

We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so like  Cafleurebon and use our RSS feedor your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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36 comments

  • It is a very special thing to gather up several different experiences into one mega event. The way Robert has written about this fragrance seems to attest to the specialness of this kind of memory. Often times it seems this can happen during a collective type event or season of the year in our lives that we later sharply remember, like “Christmas at grandma’s”. It isn’t one particular scent, but all of them wrapped and woven together! I would love to try this perfume from Sylvaine! One note that seems to go well for me is violet. I’m not usually drawn to it, but it smells very good on me, so I buy it lol. When I was a child, I loved the time leading up to the Tournament of Rose’s Parade in Pasadena, California. Growing up in the “City of Roses” left a deep impression on me, and it was always fun to get up close to some of the floats and smell all those tantalizing plant, seed, and floral scents mishmashed all together, covered in early morning dew. I would love to win the 100ml bottle, of course! 😉 I live in the USA.

  • I love the way that Robert digs into the history of this fragrance! I love the note of iris, and especially love when my wife wears it. Iris for me comes in scents like Dior Homme, but for her I think that Florentina would be perfect. I live in the USA and would love to win the bottle of Florentina. Thanks!

  • Wonderful review. This perfume sounds fabulous. I would very love to try it. I have never tried any perfume with Iris note, but in my childhood, we had many iris in our garden. Actually, still have some, but not as much as it was my childhood. If I would be the lucky winner, my choice is 100 ml. Bottle of Florentina. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Reading Robert’s reviews always make me want to go out and get that scent. He makes the scent relateable by comparing elements to more common experiences. The scent of my grandmother’s clothes has stayed with me over the decades. I’d like to win the bottle of Florentina should I be chosen. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • These fragrances are all so fabulous and easy to wear, office friendly as I would call them, to me these are very feminine except the Smeraldo which leans more masculine on me…..I am a huge Iris fan, however some Iris fragrances are to dry carroty for my taste, the Florentina is divine and by far my favorite from this line. I always enjoy Roberts reviews. My scent memory is every time I smell Myrurgia Maja I think of time I spent at my Grandmothers house which I loved. I would LOVE to win the 100ml bottle of Florentina as I can see myself wearing this often year round. Thank you so much.

  • Iris? Musk? Oh my, this is calling me! I always enjoy Robert’s reviews, he is both a gifted writer and dedicated perfume lover.

    I would love the Florentina! The notes sound so gorgeous, and in Ms. Delacourtes’ hands I can only imagine….

  • doveskylark says:

    i loved reading this review and the scent memories that inspired it. The face and talcum powder, the iris, the Youth Dew….just lovely.
    My strongest scent memory is the smell of rain on pavement heated up under the strong North Carolina sun.
    I’d choose the bottle of Florentina.
    i live in the USA.

  • xXxrootxXx says:

    Fantastic little article by robert you can almost smell the perfume ,great pictures too,I do enjoy iris perfumes i have many.So i guess a scent memory i have is the smell of lilac and roses i lived in yukon canada and alaska all my life and would visit my aunt in quebec and when i was young i would spend hours smelling her flowers but the lilac tree and roses stood out,shed clip them for the house,yukon and alasks we had basically pine trees only.
    Thnx for great giveaway and article.
    I live in canada
    would love the bottle of Florentina

  • Really great review, thank you. I do love Iris; along with Vetiver, these are my top notes. So many scent memories it is hard to pick just one. A very vivid memory is the smell of the prairies after the heat had baked the earth for weeks then a sudden hail and rainstorm would come. The smell of the parched dirt and grasses would come alive with the rain and the smell of ozone from the lightening would make the air vibrate.
    Magical. I’m in Canada and if I were so lucky I’d love the Florentina.

  • Christina M says:

    The article was written masterfully (as everything on this site is). I have several iris scents and have been exploring them a lot recently. I love the powdery aspect that the iris can bring to a scent. This combination of notes leads me to believe that this would be a wonderful “comfort” scent that could brighten any day.

    Oddly enough, my first real scent memory is of cigars and eucalyptus cough drops. My grandfather was very found of both. To this day, Tobacco and Eucalyptus always brings a smile to my face and reminds me of him. If I was the lucky winner, I’d love the Florentina.

    Thanks for the wonderful giveaway.

  • I enjoyed reading the review. For me it was almost like meandering down a path, smelling one scent here, another scent a few steps away, totally different but somehow, easily transitioning. The notes of this perfume, to me, I wouldn’t think would go together well? But from the review I can almost feel that they would be so special.
    My scent memory… of my mom spritzing her perfume. I don’t even remember the name of it now, but every once in a while I will test one and it immediately takes me back, I think that’s my mom’s perfume, or close to it!
    I live in the US and I would choose the bottle of Florentina. I think i’m going to treat myself to the discovery set!
    Thanks for the very generous draw!

  • Kentington says:

    I loved the concept of the collection from the moment I heard about it and was especially pleased to read there would be an Iris-musk…two of my favorite notes in a fragrance. I’ve been able to try Florentina and absolutely loved it- would be thrilled to have a bottle of my own!

  • I enjoyed the information in the “Iris Florentina is a sub-species” paragraph.. Yes I very much love iris. And I’d love to win the bottle of Florentina. usa

  • I always enjoy Robert’s reviews! They are witty, informative, and his love for perfume clearly shines through. I loved the part about the Iris Florentina flower! I would love a full bottle of this magnificent scent Florentina- my childhood scent memory with flowers is honeysuckle- miles and miles smelling and eating the nectar! Thanks for this chance.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    Great review which is enhanced by the artistic input from Ms. Camen. The complete feel is that of soft, peaceful, powdery comfort. I love Iris and would very much love the opportunity to own a bottle of Florentina.. My strongest scent memory…hmmmm? The very sweet, memorable spring blossoms from the lemon and grapefruit trees that grew outside my bedroom window as a child. I am in the US.

  • I love iris. I am in Washington and scents of rain,green trees and the ocean is very prominent and also very refreshing.
    I dont own any iris perfume and willl love to get a new one added to my mostly dark scents.

    In wa,usa.

  • Laurentiu says:

    Like all the above blog colleagues that have commented, I am a lover of iris fragrances. I know that iris has that powdery vibe to it, but thinking that this fragrance was created in order to bring back a childhood memory of baby-powder I can only imagine how soft and delicate Florentina should be.

    I live in EU and I would pick the big bottle if I were to win. Thank you very much!

  • fazalcheema says:

    It is huge deal that Roucel described Sylvaine as one of the best creative directors he has worked with. Florentina is intriguing because it is an iris musky creation that was inspired by Florence and Sylvaine’s memory of baby powder in childhood. Thanks for the generous draw. My choice is bottle. I am in the US.

  • What a beautiful review and perfume! I have tried the sample set and my favourite were Florentina and Smeraldo but all of them are so nice!! I liked to know Florentina was the one which brings childhood memories to Sylvaine, perhaps it happens the same to me and that is why I love so much, almond cakes smelling in the air with my favourite notes of heliotrope and iris.
    I love iris scents, I don’t mind if they show a cold side or are wrapped in warmer notes or cozy ones like Florentina.
    If I win I choose the bottle of Florentina 🙂
    I live in Europe (Spain)

  • kaitracid says:

    I didn’t know that Iris Florentina is a sub-species of iris that grows in the countryside surrounding Florence Italy, that’s a new information I’ve just acquired. I love iris as a note (and the beautiful flower). I would love to win the bottle of Florentina and I live in the EU.

  • Robert’s review is straight to the point, with no embellishments. His description of Florentina makes me think I would like very much this scent. At this stage of my life, I enjoy powdery perfumes.
    I live in EU.
    Thank you.

  • Such a beautiful review. I did not know that ssylvaine had her own line and that it was based on scent memories. Florentina sounds exquisite and I do have a scent memory of my mum wearing shalimar
    Thank you I live in Canada

  • The last paragraph describing Florentina as a cold and warm weather perfume is enticing. I do love nearly all iris fragrances and am excited to see clove in this formula. My scent memory from childhood is shampoo. 🙂 If I’m chosen I’d be grateful for the full bottle of Florentina. US

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Lovely review, I would say it’s spot on. I’ve tried this fragrance before, along with the others from the line, and it’s wonderful. I love iris perfumes – so elegant and comforting to me, as they smell of soap and powder and are so enveloping. I’m in the US. I would like to win Florentina, as I have already tried the discovery kit! I’m hoping to purchase Lilylang for myself soon 🙂

  • It was nice to read about the childhood memory and how it translates to smell. Oh, and the combination of iris and vetiver, orange blossom, almond sounds so good! I am a big fan of iris fragrances and would like to win the big bottle of Florentina. I live in EU.

  • I always love reviews where the perfumer is featured and gives us their context for creating a fragrance. The only memory I have of my maternal grandmother is of her wearing Avon Roses, Roses, and cutting a fresh juicy pear from the tree in her yard. I live in the US and am sure I would absolutely love Florentina, thank you for the draw! I live in the US.

  • MichelleU says:

    I always enjoy Robert’s reviews. This is my favorite part of the review “All of these memories coalesce into a singular perfume that is beautifully blended using the finest ingredients, and we are gifted with a floral and Iris scent with touches of gourmand and a terrific soft musk base. The opening is a bright and fluffy almond note that is reminiscent of opening the door to a favorite bakery or patisserie, the steamy warm air redolent of sweet baking almond biscuits. ”

    I must admit that it took me a long time to love and understand iris fragrances but I fell hard for the Iris note!

    My choice is the discovery set! Thank you!

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I like the paintings Michelyn chose for his review, so gentle and soft and clean. iris memories I have from the garden of my grand mother, I haven*t found a perfume that smells like this.

    I live in the EU, thanks for the draw

  • I always love Robert’s reviews. I’m fond of how this review included memories of scent. Baby powder was a subject of this memory and that the fragrance recreated it is astounding. Iris fragrances are definitely some of my favorites. I live in the US. The discovery kit is my choice. Thank you so much.

  • Iris, orange flower and almond, all tied up in childhood memories? This sounds incredibly lovely, and Robert’s review makes it come alive. I have been wanting to try Mme Delacourt’s line, which seems very special/

  • carole macleod says:

    I had the chance to try some of these, and i think this line will be a huge hit. Here is what I like about Robert’s review: he is describing a line founded by a woman who i really respect. Her career in fragrance is amazing, and she is the epitome of elegance. Years ago I wrote to her, about my positive experience with Guerlain Toronto. She graciously took the time to answer-i was so stunned, and so pleased. I think M. Delacourte will bring this attention to detail in all of her work.

    I do enjoy Iris in perfume-it’s an elegant note, and always reveals a different facet to my nose. Iris grow wild here in spring, and I remember the delicate scent of them, plus the wet soil and earth they grow in. I once saw a field of them-I nearly drove off the road. It amazed me. I live in Canada, and if I were lucky enough to win I would choose the Florentina.

    Thank you, and I hope everyone has an enjoyable long weekend,
    Carole

  • Thanks for a lovely review, Robert. This sounds like a lovely and very wearable perfume. Sometimes it’s nice not to make a huge statement with your perfume, but just to smell nice. I would love to try the bottle of Florintina. Thank you for the draw. USA

  • Thank you for another fantastic review. I recently got a sample of Iris Fauve and absolutely love it. I now know that I am a lover of iris musk fragrances and have been on the lookout for other perfumes highlighting these notes. Based on this article, I’d love to try a bottle of Florentina. I think I would really love the combination of carnation with the iris and love the sound of the way the vetiver note was added to provide a hazelnutty sort of tension. Definitely piqued my interest! With gratitude for this site, the passionate contributors, and the draw. I’m in Switzerland.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Fantastic review! Its great that all of her five perfumes centered around musk, animalic but soft & wearable. Iris is one of my favorite note, and Dior Homme Parfum fully loaded with Iris is the one which I love the most. I would love to try the bottle of Florintina.
    Thanks to the generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • I absolutely love baby powder and baby powder type scents! So this one really interests me. Great read! I’m in Canada and would love the bottle!

  • rodelinda says:

    A tribute to baby powder makes my heart flutter — vintage-style, powdery scents are at the top of my favorites list. Fingers crossed for a lucky roll of the dice, but I’ll definitely need to get my hands on a sample of this one way or another. I’m in the US and would choose a bottle of Florentina. Thanks for the drawing.