New Perfume Review: Sweet Anthem Perfumes Timeless Collection (Marisa Borrevik) 2017+ 1948 Beginning, 1969 Revolution and 2020 Hope Draw

The Original Sweet Anthem Studio Meredith Smith

In the Summer of 2016 a quiet buzz started moving around the Pacific Northwest; Sweet Anthem Perfumes was re-opening after a two year hiatus. Since 2007, Sweet Anthem then based in West Seattle, had been a “must-see” destination on every perfumista’s Northwest itinerary. In 2007 Natural Perfumes were not quite “a thing” yet, and held a certain below-the-radar mystery to most fragrance lovers, often dismissed as Head Shop leftovers rife with Patchouli oil, musk, and a vague scent of Nag Champa. Sweet Anthem helped change all that and was a leader in natural perfumery in the Northwest. 

Marisa Borrevik Sweet Anthem Natural Perfumes

In opening Sweet Anthem, then owner Meredith Smith had decided the time was right for vegan, cruelty free, and mostly natural perfumes offered at very reasonable prices. Sure enough, the idea was a hit and her Seattle studio perfumes were flying off the shelves and soon started showing up at Anthropologie and other retail locations. Now re-opened in Portland Oregon under the very capable day-to-day operation of Marisa Borrevik, with Meredith popping in from time to time, new baby in tow, to offer input, Sweet Anthem is back in business creating wonderful scents!

The new three-perfume Timeless Collection is Marisa’s first endeavor for Sweet Anthem, and it’s a stunner. It’s also the first 100% all natural perfumes they’ve offered. The inspiration for the range is in Marisa’s own words…“Our lives, experiences, passions are wrapped up in these complex memories. But somehow to me, olfactory memory seems the purest in feeling. The Timeless concept was born out of an eagerness to understand the world in a different way – like historical fiction for the nose. The time periods felt like they choose themselves, I knew exactly the eras I wanted to evoke and what the finished product would feel like……”The Perfumes all capture a historical era or moment in time; scent as a time capsule of past and future:

Robert's parents in San Francisco 1948.

1948-Beginnings The year 1948.“The war to end all wars” had ended three years prior, Service men and women had returned home, gotten married, and the first wave of the baby boomer generation were turning two years old. The population of the USA was skyrocketing as more babies were being born every day.

Blue Print of Levittown Houses

 

Levittown the first suburb (in Nassau County New York) was built, and after the horror years of WW2, couples were anxious to get their slice of the “American Dream.” The world was galloping towards the future and life was good and prospects bright.

Bob Anderson and Billie Holiday Apollo Theatre. Happy Birthday Lady Day April 7, 2017 (photo late 1940s)

1948-Beginnings gorgeously captures that rapture and sense of hope, shaking off the chains of the past, and striding forward. A ray of light after years of unspeakable darkness. The floral notes at the top give a nod to the classic perfumes of the past, and the green chill of the vetiver mixed with the exotic, slightly bitter frankincense and labdanum are decidedly pushing the modern. 1948 Beginnings is the perfect amalgam of past and future. If like me, you’re a fan of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue or the classic Dior’s then I suspect you’ll love this scent! Notes: Honeysuckle, frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, orris, jasmine, & vetiver.

Robert Herrmann as Woof in Hair NYC. (photo by Martha Swope)

1969-Revolution: The year 1969. Many of us were there. The world watched as a president, a senator, and a civil rights leader were assassinated.. Television brought these events right into our  living rooms, and once again we were mired in a war. The Summer Of Love was two years gone, and with it much of our innocence and naivety. Men continued to grow their hair long, and everyone was still encouraged to “turn on, tune in, and drop out.” On Broadway, the American Tribal Love Rock Musical HAIR was the big hit, perfectly reflecting the dissonance of the era and the desire for the Age Of Aquarius to commence.

Janis Joplin by Francesco Scavullo, 1969

On both coasts a revolution of another kind, the sexual revolution was amping up towards it’s reign and ultimate demise through the 70’s. 1969-Revolution is all about the exuberance and waning of the flower child, as darker times approach.

'Universal Harmony' by PETER MAX

The perfume opens with a “Let The Sunshine In”-tonka bean zingy Coca-cola/fizzy drink feeling that is as bright and happy as a be-in in Golden Gate Park. Pure unadulterated youth, freedom and “good vibrations”. This very quickly settles down into a gorgeous floral heart supported by the woody, spicy notes of the amyris and sandalwood. The burgeoning darkness comes through the oakmoss, vetiver, and benzoin, and it’s very clear that “The Times They Are A’Changing.” Notes: Tonka bean, tuberose, amyris, Moroccan rose, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and benzoin.

The Prologue and the Promise, 1993, Robert McCall©

2020-Hope: In a fractured world where divisiveness and fear rule our emotions, we keep hope alive like a light in the dark, and turn to things that comfort us. Like nestling into a loving mothers arms, 2020-Hope  will have you feeling as if there are good days still to come, and cohesiveness and love might just propel us forward to a better future yet to be revealed. Opening with a blast of pithy yuzu and petitgrain to lift you up, the absolutely beautiful emerging sandalwood, almond, tonka, and lavender help you to maintain your elevated equilibrium. Like the first bite of a crisp and creamy vanilla Macaron, you exhale easily and realize that you can do this, you can get through this, and with letting that breath out, your spirit settles. Calming and wonderful. Just what we crave. Notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, bitter almond, yuzu, benzoin, lavender, petitgrain, vanilla

Disclosure: Many thanks to Sweet Anthem Perfumes for supplying the samples.  The opinions are my own

Robert Herrmann, Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to Sweet Anthem Perfumes and Marisa Borrevik, we have a three-sample (5 ml. each) set of the Timeless Collection in solid perfume form for a registered reader in the USA. Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Robert’s reviews, which perfume you  resonated with you  and which year in your life or historically would make a great perfume. Draw closes 4/10/2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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8 comments

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    These sound absolutely wonderful! My best – beloved frags are the 100% natural. 1969 – Revolution and 2020 – Hope both resonate for me (I’m a Gen-X, cultural history enthusiast prone to (obviously) existential crises. I would make a perfume using my senior year of college, when I read to and hosted a poetry reading and my dearest friend / housemate was a beat poet who’d performed with Janis and many of that scene. I was a lit and French language major who read and also breathed romantic and surrealist sensibilities. Wow those were good times.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Beautiful reviews! Really capture the spirit of each time. I think the 1969 perfume resonated with me the most – the snap of fizz, the comforting and deep sandalwood, and beautiful florals all sound like me. I think the 1600s in Mughal India would make a great perfume.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Thanks to Robert’s review, I want all of them I don’t think I could begin to choose. They all sound amazing. I think the reign of Elizabeth I would make for a great fragrance. Piracy, discovery, Renaissance, mystery, the Golden Age. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the introduction and review of never heard before “Sweet Anthem Perfumes”. All sounds great but 1948-Beginnings looks gorgeous and captures my attention more and resonates with me. I think the 20 years from 1960 to 1980 seems historical years in making great perfumes. These solid samples set of Timeless Collection are of same shape like Deodorant stick which I like it.
    Thanks to Marisa Borrevik & Sweet Anthem Perfumes for the generosity and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love this concept for a fragrance collection. I love old fragrances like L’Heure Bleue, so 1948 Beginnings appeals to me. And 1948 was when “Key Largo,” one of my all time favorite movies, was released.
    I’d like to have a fragrance that speaks of Berlin in 1931, the setting of “Cabaret.”
    I live in the USA.

  • Robert, great review of these three. It was difficult for me to choose just one as
    all three hit a note for me, but… 1969 sounds perfect for me at the moment.