November 30, 2016
Ilva Hetmann, photo by Sam Bisso for Elle Germany June 2012
Occasionally a perfume comes along that makes me see colors when the first notes hit. Such is the case with Sheiduna, the first oriental fragrance from Puredistance.
Close-up of fire opal, Getty Images
When I close my eyes, I smell fire opal: a kaleidoscope of warm greens, gold and red orange.
Cécile Zarokian and Jan Ewould Vos via twitter
Created by Cécile Zarokian in collaboration with Creative Director Jan Ewoud Vos, Sheiduna was inspired by “the panoramic views and feel of golden sand dunes in the desert during sunset.” Sheiduna is made as a 27% extrait, which gives it richness and depth.
Puredistance Perfumes photo Jan Ewould Vos
A hallmark of this house is a harmonious blending of complicated notes. The result is a range of perfumes that are faceted like gemstones, offering different aspects of the composition at each stage of its development.
Queen of the Desert fashion editorial, photo by Lindsay Adler for Noise Magazine, Jan 2015 apped MC
Sheiduna opens with a sunny tang of tangerine and lemon and a quick fizz of aldehydes. Vetiver, which here is grassy rather than rooty, becomes quickly prominent. The early notes are clear and distinctive: the oily greenness of the vetiver, the burnt orange of peppery geranium combined with tangerine, and the morning zing of lemon. The interplay of these notes results in an aroma remarkably similar to the bitter sweetness of cape gooseberries.
IIva Hetmann by Sam Bisso for Elle Germany June 2012
As the sharpness of the opening mellows, the middle stage becomes all about warmth. The citrus and spice simmer gently into an amalgam of rich, resinous fruit, though the vetiver remains an undercurrent. Myrrh becomes pronounced along with clove and, a bit later, ruddy amber, shifting Sheiduna’s emphasis eastwards into oriental territory. The dry down, which comes quite a bit later, is softened by the milk-and-twigs scent of vanilla pods and a supple rose, which lift Sheiduna into a lighter, more floral finish than its trajectory might imply.
Gobi Desert, Mongolia, photo by Shadowblade
As desert air crackles with dissipating heat, Sheiduna cools down to silky, musky rose and sweet spice with a lingering savor of that cape gooseberry chord as a bright reminder of the sun disappearing behind the dunes.
Notes: Lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetyver, patchouly, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musks. Sillage is moderate; longevity is good, roughly 6-8 hours.
Disclaimer: I received my sample of Sheiduna from Puredistance – many thanks. Opinions are my own.
— Lauryn Beer, Editor
Press coffret photo MC
Editor’s Note: My first sniff of Sheiduna was at Sniffapalooza Spring Fling 2016; a remarkable perfume by a remarkable perfumer. One spritz and I am Scheherazade. Thank you Mary and Jan for the coffret; I have drained my 5 ml purse spray dry.Ermano Picco voted Shieduna of the 10 best fragrances of Pitti Fragranze
17.5 ml Sheiduna, photo Puredistance
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