April 7, 2016
Oud is a polarizing subject in perfumery. Some think it’s been over used, while others can’t wait for yet another take on it. It is certainly ubiquitous in fragrance at the moment, and I can take it or leave it. (Pink pepper, on the other hand…) I have a bottle of By Killian Pure Oud that I love, and it has more than filled the oud-shaped hole in my personal scent wardrobe. Until now, that is, because I’ve just discovered Oud Wa Vanilla by Parfums Berdoues.
Photo: Hernando Elements Showcase 2016
Oud Wa Vanilla is part of the Grand Crus Millsime Oud collection, which is the newest range from a company that is over a hundred years old, and has remained in the same family for four generations. I know the house as the creators of some of my favorite florals, especially violets. When introducing the Grand Crus collection, Parfums Berdoues reminded us that “Not every wine is a Grand Cru. The same is true for perfumes” and they have done a masterful job with oud in this latest launch. Oud Wa Vanilla is one of three oud-centric fragrances that were created in-house and debuted March, 2016. It’s my favorite of the releases and I think it’s a perfect introduction for those who may be oud-curious, because it’s beautifully blended with notes that soften what are often harsh edges in oud fragrances.
The oud in Oud Wa Vanilla is smoky, and its smokiness is not from a freshly started fire. This oud has burned all the way down to warm, smoking embers; it glows softly, enticing everyone nearby to come even closer. A slight trace of jasmine teases in and out of the smokiness, heightening the allure, and within a few minutes, vanilla starts to bloom amidst the warmth of the oud. The vanilla is rich without being sweet and adds even more depths of warmth and smokiness to the fragrance, provoking ever-closer encounters. Amber smolders quietly in the base; a seductively fragrant opiate, making certain that things will most definitely get out of hand.
Oud Wa Vanilla is a perfume that invites lingering, like the first kiss with a new love, or the hundredth with your true love. It’s also very easily shared between genders, and makes me think of gentleman gallantly offering his coat to his date when the night turns unexpectedly chilly. She lingers at her door long enough for the sexy smokiness of his cologne to combine with the sultry warmth of her perfume, and envelop them in a seductive elixir that will keep them both up the rest of the night.
Notes: Madagascan Vanilla, Jasmine, Oud, Amber
This review is based on a sample that was given to me by the always generous owners of Twisted Lily . Opinions are my own.
Tammy Schuster, Contributor
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen all art by Morrocan born Lalla Essaydi, who lives in the USA and whose paintngs, installations and photos invite the viewer to reconsider Western Orientalism mythology.
Editor’s Note: I first found OUD Wa Vanilia at the Elements Showcase 2016 and awarded it a best of show
Thanks to Amerikas the US Distributor of Bedoues we have a draw for a 100ml bottle of OUD Wa Vanilla for a registered reader in the US. Please leave a comment with why Berdoues Grand Cru Oud Wa Vanilia appeals to you based on Tammy’s review and if you generally are a fan of oud perfumes. Draw closes 4/10/2016
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