New Perfume Review: Panorama by Olfactive Studio + On a Scented Day You Can See Forever Draw

Arthur'sSeat&MuseumRoofViews-Edinburgh

Arthur's Seat & Museum Roof Views-Edinburgh

 A definition of panorama is that moment looking out over a view when suddenly you realise everything before you drops away from mere perspective, coalescing sharply into magnificence. Vista becomes unbroken awe. In my beloved Edinburgh there are two places, opposing in mood where this occurs, One is on top of Arthurs Seat, the remainder of an volcanic cluster on the edge of the city that offers soaring views across the city and beyond. The other is smack bang in the heart of the city, hidden away on the roof of the beautiful Benson and Forsyth designed National Museum of Scotland in the Old Town. I used to work there and when I was tired or just plain stressed out, I’d find my way up to the flat roof. Anyone could go, but people rarely did. I liked to find it empty except for maybe a security guard sneaking a cigarette, but it was always windswept, and oddly dry and chilled, angular with deliberate shadow. The 360º panoramic views across the city are jaw-dropping; everything seems amplified in detail and silent, close and yet so far away. Every part of the roof offers unique and uninterrupted aspects of fascination.

PA_BY_SANDHINA

Panorama Photo: M Sandinha

Now, applying this sensation of place and outlook to scent may sound ambitious and somewhat grandiose, however, Panorama, the sensational new launch from Creative Director Céline Verlure’s fiercely artistic niche house Olfactive Studio is a gloriously sharp and edgy attempt to do just that.

celine verleure  olfactive studio  le blog du parfum qui n'existe pas encore

Céline Verleure et Le Blog Du Parfum Qui  N'Existe Pas

I have come around to Olfactive Studio. It was not love at first sniff. I liked the concept and the story of Céline crowdsourcing with a ‘Blog for a fragrance that doesn’t (yet) exist’ (Le Blog du Parfum  Qui N’Existe Pas Encore) and pulling together a vibrant manifesto of interactive online community and dynamism.

autoportrait, still life  chambre noire hreeolfactive-studioflaconscafleurebon

Still Life, Autoportrait and Chambre Noire Olfactive Studio

This led to the creation and launch of the house in 2011 with three fragrances: Auto Portrait by Nathalie Lorson, Still Life by Dora Arnaud and Chambre Noire by Dorothée Piot. The point of difference with Olfactive Studio is the defiant emphasis on collaboration and open artistic process.  The fragrances are described are ‘Perfumers proofs’, a direct olfactive reaction by the designated nose to a particular photograph or image. Each Olfactive Studio scent is intensely bound up in its photographic provenance. The bottles are packed in boxes echoing old style print boxes with a copy of the photograph lying over the flacons when you open them up.

flashback-olfactive-studio-1

Flashback Photo: Olfactive Studio

It was Flashback by Olivier Cresp in 2013 that made me rethink my feelings about Olfactive Studio and their photo/scent approach which at times seemed a bit concept heavy, with the artwork and stories sometimes swirling like a haze around me.  Cresp had come off the back of the success of Juniper Sling at Penhaligon’s and seemed to be enjoying the relative freedom of niche and Flashback with its really crisp Granny Smith apple effect and radiant rhubarb memory was quite beautiful. Coupled with Laurent Segretier’s fractured, digital smearing, the two sides seemed perfect fractured echoes of one another.

Panorama cafleurebon

Photo of Panorama by TSF

I bought Ombre Indigo by Mylene Alran earlier this year, falling for its painted sensory shadows, resinous textures and addictive smoked tuberose but Panorama is shockingly different, a huge yelp of fabulous rebel green. It has been getting great reviews and was highly praised by our Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen at Esxence 2015 in Milan in her wrap up report. Rightly so, it is very special.

Miguel Sandinha’s  photo PANORAMA

Miguel Sandinha’s photo of the Sheats-Goldstein House In L.A.

Created by Clement Gavarry of IFF, Panorama was inspired by Miguel Sandinha’s sci-fi image of the Sheats-Goldstein residence in Beverley Crest, Los Angeles, one of the most compelling houses in the world. The house was originally built between 1961 and 1963 for Helen and Paul Sheats and their five children. The eccentric James Goldstein bought the house in 1972 and worked with the original architect John Lautner to restore the property. Lautner went on to enhance everything both inside and out; furniture, fitting, lights, walls, carpets.  When he died, the work was continued by Duncan Nicolson, who worked in Lautner’s office. There are no 90º angles in the house and nothing is painted. Light is obsessively manipulated and everything harmonises with the tropical garden that surrounds the 4,500 square foot property. In many ways, the house is a modern cave, carefully and artfully built into modern hills. The views from the cantilevered platform lounge are indeed spectacularly panoramic.

FreshWasabi

Fresh Wasabi-TSF

Panorama is a capture of this gasp of wonderment, the juxtaposition of verdancy with glassy transparency and woody invitation. M. Gavarry has used a wasabi effect in the top of the scent, mixed with bamboo leaf, fig leaf and lemon. This opening is quite superb, one of the best I’ve smelled in ages, dripping with real citric joy and a rubbed moist oddness like the trailing of fingers over leaves in a freshly watered glasshouse. Real wasabi is quite something and actually quite hard to come by, it’s amazing how much so-called wasabi is just mustard, regular horseradish and green colourant. I used to buy mine at a framers’ market, wrapped in damp muslin and shred it on a small, pearlescent ceramic grater. Real wasabi is cleanly hot, herbal and cleansing. This piquant fresh stalkiness is brilliantly replicated in Panorama, making you want to spray and spray and spray, just to savour that zesty fire. The mulchy creep of galbanum is quite noticeable in the heart of the scent but this is submerged in a powerful slash of violet leaf. This smells like someone has thrown coloured ink across a window, it’s that powerful. A cut grass effect radiates out of the later stage, smelling like cold evening lawn. The base takes time, like shadows moving over glass, slow myrrh, a delicate fir balsam suggestion that adds a discreet sylvan charm. But really Panorama for me is about the opening and heart. The end trails into silence, but it’s not really needed to triumph, just support and care. This odd mix of zingy urgency and quirky vegetal beauty really is remarkable. If you look carefully at Miguel Sandinha’s image of the incredible jutting corner of the Sheats-Goldstein house and imagine yourself for a moment, standing there in silence as sun rolls over the glass. You look out over Los Angeles. All is quiet, the scent of leaves, water and earth surrounds the house. You can see forever. For a moment all is green in morning light.

Disclosure – Review based on a bottle of Panorama very kindly supplied by Céline Verlure of Olfactive Studio.

The Silver Fox, Editor and Author of The Silver Fox

Editor’s Note: Ombre Indigo was a top five finalist in the 2015 Art and Olfaction Awards and is a finalist in the Fragrance Foundation Awards in the Indie category which will be held on June 17, 2015.

OS_PANORAMa perfume

photo: Olfactive Studio

Thanks to Céline Verlure  of Olfactive Studio we have a  worldwide draw for a 50 ml bottle of Panorama  for a registered CaFleureBon reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Panorama, where you live and if you have a favorite Olfactive Studio Perfume. Draw close May 1, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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46 comments

  • I have not had a chance to explore the Olifactive line, but the recent reviews of Panorama have left me dying to try these! I love the thought of a wasabi note, can’t even imagine how that works but would love to know. I’m in the USA.

  • I’ve tried an Olfactive sample of Lumière Blanche, which I very much liked: warm, bright, iridescent. Then recently I got some Panorama from a friend and it is my new best fragrant Spring scent ever. It’s green, aromatic, sharp but not cold, slightly resinous, and definitely uplifting.

    I live in Los Angeles, and I find Miguel Sandinha’s photo of my city especially appealing.

  • I like that each Olfactive Studio scent is intensely bound up in its photographic provenance.

    I’ve never tried Olfactive Studio scent

    Thanks for the chance, I’m in Canada

  • I like all the Olfactive Studio scents I tried which I believe are all but Panorma. The fact that this is one I haven’t tried with a very unique note makes it a must. 🙂 US

  • I’m an Olfactive Studio fan already. I’ve got a gorgeous sample pack that contains travel sprays of Flashback, Lumiere Blanche, Still Life, Autoportrait, Chambre Noir, and Ambre Indigo.

    Ambre Indigo is definitely my favorite so far, but now I’ve got to get my hands on Panorama! I love green fragrances, and so, predictably, galbanum is among my favored notes. But I don’t think I have ever tried anything with a wasabi note!

    I am in the US.

  • Chapeau Clack says:

    Green is very high on the list of my favorite perfume genres. Strange, atmospheric, and evocative green is easily up there with the iconic Shalimars and Mitsoukos, trumping both on certain days. The wasabi note in Panorama sounds like something I would be head over heels for.
    I haven’t tried an Olfactive Studio scent yet, but their concept and narrative are always very intriguing.
    Thanks for the draw, I’m in Russia.

  • “powerful slash of violet leaf” and “cut grass effect” makes me want this perfume. my favorite Olfactive Studio Perfume is Autoportrait. I’m in Russia. Thanks for the draw!

  • I don’t think I have smelled a perfume with wasabi, so that would be new to me. Your description makes me want to give this a try. I haven’t yet tried anything from Olfactive Studio. I’m in the USA. Thanks!

  • Wow, wasabi note in a perfume…not something I thought I’d see ever. I’m definitely looking forward to trying this one just to see how the wasabi plays out on my skin. My favorite from Olfactive is Chambre Noire.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada

  • I am VERY curious about the wasabi note. I am not entirely sure if have tried real wasabi (not like you have described it anyway!), and I would love to see how it works in a perfume. My favorite perfume from Olfactive Studio is Lumiere Blanche, and I am in the US, thank you!

  • I’m usually very subdued but I do have a fiery side that seldom reveal. This fragrance may be just the ticket I need to share that side more (even if it’s just with myself.) The combination of notes in this fragrance intrigue me. I do have a favorite Olfactive Studio fragrance Ombre Indigo… however I do have the entire line. Congratulations to Céline on the recent awards for Ombre Indigo.
    I am in the US…

  • Panarama appeals to me because I tend to enjoy everything from this house. My fave is Ombre Indigo.
    I am in the U.S.

  • Marcopietro says:

    My favorite Olfactive Studio scent is Ombre Indigo, but I recently tested Panorama and it came pushing in wishlist.
    It’s exactly like your review describes, your words give back its feeling of freshness slightly pungent. You feel something “strange” inside it, but at the same time the result is seductive and wearable.
    I’m in Italy. Thank you!

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am intrigued by Panorama because it pays tribute to the organic lifestyle which emphasizes harmony with the nature. even the portrait selected for this fragrance looks like a house in the middle of a green, lush forest, at the edge of a major city as if the house is a statement of rebellion against the destructive consequences of capitalism. my favorite Olfactive Studio creation is Still Life which I also own. thanks a lot for the wonderful draw. I am in the US

  • Great review Mr. Silver Fox!!!
    Panorama could be my perfect green scent…
    I live in Italy!!! Thanks!!!

  • I have never tried an Olfactive Studio scent. My area sadly doesn’t carry niche or higher end perfumes and I definitely need to sample prior to purchase due to my body chemistry. I can drive almost three hours to a larger city but I don’t do that more than once or twice a year.

    I am so intrigued by the Wasabi note in this perfume. I can’t imagine how it all comes together. I would be so interested in trying this!

    Thanks for the draw – I’m in the US.

  • With so many “green” ingredients, Panorama made me very curious. I think it would do a fine job in the spring and in the summer heat.
    I have never tried anything from Olfactive Studio before and I think that Panorama would be a good start.
    I am from EU. Thanks!

  • I very like this review. I had never tried any of Olfactive Studio perfume unfortunately, but I suppose those are all interesting. Panorama sounds fabulous from the review, I would very like to win this draw. I live in Europe.

  • Celine Verleure’s olfactory journey with Olfactive Studio has been so amazing… Each composition has a serenuty to it, a nice balance that is quite consistent in the whole line. Panorama seems to veer off towards a more fun path.. Wasabi and bamboo? Green accord? count me in!
    Thank you for this great draw

  • Panorama sounds really very intriguing for its antithesis of verdant notes with glassy transparency and woody notes, wasabi effect mixed with bamboo leaf, fig leaf and lemon and the base notes myrrh and balsam what an amazing smell this must be !!!
    I have not still experienced any Olfactive Studio Perfume so I haven’t any favorite up till now. I live in EU and I thank you for this generous draw.

  • I was lucky enough to sniff this at Bloom in London recently. Sadly I had to fly home before the perfume was available for sale, but maybe I’ll get lucky and win it, eh? My love affair with Olfactive Studio started with Lumiere Blanche, but I’ve added Flashback and Still Life to my collection, too.

  • Thank you for the review!
    Panorama sounds amazing,the wasabi note especially. My favorite Olfactive Studio perfume is Ombre Indigo.
    I am in the U.S.

  • I’m another one who hasn’t had the pleasure of trying any Olfactive Studio scents, but I like grassy & green perfumes, plus there’s the unique pull of horseradish that I find irresistibly compelling.

    Thanks to all for the generous drawing, I’m in the USA.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    Wasabi, bamboo and fig leaves? How could I not give this a try? I enjoy all of this line and would love to own thus gorgeous green beauty. I’m in the UAE.

  • Elizabeth T says:

    Ooh, I love green scents, and I’ve heard wonderful things about this wasabi note! (I’ve only tried the fake wasabi.) I’m in the US… thank you for the generous draw!

  • Elizabeth T says:

    I love anything green, and I’ve heard wonderful things about this wasabi note (I’ve only tried the fake wasabi)! I am in the US… thank you for the generous draw!

  • The notes sound right up my alley and I love the color. My favorite of theirs is Lumiere Blanche. I am in Canada. Thanks.

  • Writing from Canada.

    I love green scents, especially galbanum so would love to try Panorama. The Silver Fox’s description of the heart of the scent smelling “like someone has thrown coloured ink across a window” is very enticing.
    Haven’t tried any of the Olfactive Studio scents, but am also intrigued by Ombre Indigo and Flash Back.

    Thank you for the generous draw opportunity,

    PS
    Really enjoying the The Silver Fox’s reviews.

  • I loved this story, and am intrigued by anything inspired by Los Angeles architecture, frankly. What a great tale. And fun photos. I haven’t tried these fragrances yet, but I predict Panorama may remind me of a recent LA vacation. I am in the US.

    Cheers,
    deb

  • I’m new to Olfactive Studio and would love to be introduced to them through Panorama. I’m a wasabi lover in the USA.

  • I have wanted to experience this scent I saw that amazing photo–
    that glass house, looking over a jungle, with the city far on the horizon. It’s peaceful and exhilarating at the same time.
    Plus, I love green scents.
    I wear Flashback often–it is a wonderfully energizing scent.
    I am in the U.S.
    Thank you.

  • Wow – tho sounds fascinating. A wasabi note you just want to spray and spray? Whoosh! Thanks for the draw. I’,m in the US.

  • Valentine Girl says:

    I am a fan of “green” scents and am intrigued by the wasabi, lemon & fig leaf notes in Panorama. I have not yet had an opportunity to sample any scents from Olfactive Studios; though from the description above, I would also like to smell Flashback–Granny Smith apples, rhubarb, wasabi, lemons…suddenly I am very hungry! USA resident.

  • The description and photo of the house sends the imagination racing. I like the concept of marrying art/photography with fragrance. I too enjoyed Flashback. Lumiere Blanche and Autoportrait were nice as well… especially the accompanying photo for Autoportrait. … Wasabi??!? Interesting. Thanks for the draw. I am in the US.

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    I really like green scents and would love to try/get this one since I live in LA, it would be interesting and of course the use of wasabi as a note is totally intriguing!
    My favorites are two : Flashback and Ombre Indigo.
    I am in the US. Thanks!

  • The zesty fire of the wasabi note in Panorama appeals to me. I live in the U.S. And have not yet had the pleasure of wearing an Olfactive Studio Perfume.

  • I love the concept of Olfactive Studio and Céline. Fragrances are nice and well crafted. They also have affordable price. My favorites are Chambre Noire and Autoportrait but I have not tried Ombre Indigo. I like what I’ve read about it and the similar is with the newest fragrance. There is a lovely story behind Panorama. Ingredients are really green, but I’m also interested about the base that is described beautifully: “like shadows moving over glass”… I would wear Panorama. I’m in the EU, Croatia. Thank you.

  • Panorama appeals to me with the unexperienced (to me) effect of wasabi! But surely a fig leaf makes it a must-try for me!
    I only know Still Life from Olfactive Studio’s range, and I love it!
    Thank you for the chance to win!
    I am in Bulgaria (EU)

  • i have been reading quite a few good reviews on Panorama and really love green fragrance. I can’t imagine what wasabi smells like in a perfume but as someone who lived in LA I have to try this win or lose this draw
    Canada and registered

  • Panorama’s zingy quirky greenness appeals to me greatly!
    Wasabi is interesting but the overall life of the scent is what counts. i loved reading about and looking at the house, and thinking about what it would be to stand there, to live there…Panorama would be a great way to experience those feelings on another level.

    Lumiere Blanche is my favorite Olfactive Studio scent that I’ve sampled.

    USA
    Thank you for the review and draw

  • I am on my second bottle of Lumiere Blanche which is the only Olfactive Studio. Best sentence this smells like someone who threw colored ink across a window, it is that powerful!
    Also I did not know that the company came about using the fragrance community online. That house is magnificent and the Miguel Sandinha photo does look a bit sci fi
    Thank you for this drawing and yes I am like everyone who commented that wasabi!
    I live in the U.S.

  • Holly F. says:

    Wow! Amazing draw. The wasabi note in Panorama is so appealing to me because it’s very original, and also because I just love real wasabi. And the base notes, myrrh and fir balsam, those are two of my favorites. So this is already piquing my interest! I have not yet had the chance to try any by Olfactive Studio. I look forward to it! I am in the US, thanks for the chance.

  • Green fragrances have always been a favorite of mine. This one sounds outstanding! The bottles alone look like works of art. I’m also a fan of Still Life. I’m in Canada and thanks!

  • Wow wasabi in a fragrance sounds amazing! I’ve never smelled anything like that before. Chambre Noire is also a scent I highly recommend. Overall, Olfactive Studio is an incredible house that you honestly can’t go wrong with.

    Canada

  • Greennote says:

    Loved Lumière Blanche. Completely outside what I’d normally like (big spices and/or vetivers). It just felt very comfortable. The greenness of panorama sounds very much like my kind of thing.