Céline Verleure was one of the people I had the good fortune to meet when I was at Esxence in Milan. Her line is an intriguing one, with fragrances built around specific photographs, and packaging that incorporates design elements of cameras and photographs. Her design aesthetic has been largely spare, with minimal use of color. She released her first three fragrances, Autoportrait, Still Life, and Chambre Noire, in 2011, Lumiere Blanche in 2012, and Flashback in 2013.

Photo by Gustavo Pellizzon

With her latest perfume, Ombre Indigo, she selected a photograph by Brazilian photographer Gustavo Pellizzon, of a figure all in silhouette except for a bright orange pair of trousers draped around his/her  neck, standing in or near a still body of water, with colorful sunset reflections of deep blues and shimmering oranges. Ms. Verleure was intrigued by the depth of the bright colors that cast such a stark contrast to the relaxed, shadowy figure. She decided to create a perfume that would be an olfactory shadow. Working with Robertet perfumer Mylène Alran, the resulting perfume captures that which is a part of us all, following us, running ahead, growing darker in the light and dimmer in the darkness.

"Boom!" by Kumi Yamashita

When I first apply Ombre Indigo, I am struck immediately by the deep woody, smoky quality of the fragrance, like I have rubbed myself with the ashes of incense. But what I really love, and I had to seek out the notes list to find out what was happening, is a mere tickle of plum. It is very nearly an olfactory hallucination and adds a personality and uniqueness to a perfume that could easily be just another woody, smoky leather scent. I also very much appreciate that even though this fragrance contains all of the big heavy notes like leather, incense, amber, musk, vetiver, and benzoin, it manages to remain translucent, its sheerness allowing the complexity of the scent to shine without being overbearing. This is due in part to a lively tuberose running through the heart; subtly, but with enough presence to be noticed. One could wear this on a warm evening with no problem. The fragrance does have sillage, but at the same time is not loud close to the skin. It is blended expertly and is exceptionally wearable by any gender. The final selling point for me is the spectacular color of the perfume itself, a deep teal indigo that is very compelling.

"Sitting Here Casting My Shadow" by Rook Floro

I am enjoying the collaborative effort that is the Olfactive Studio line, and Ombre Indigo is a marvelous addition. Ms. Verleure stepped out of her comfort zone with her choice of photograph, and the care in executing the concept is obvious. So far, it is one of the best perfumes of this year.

Notes: petit-grain bigarade, absolute tuberose, saffron, plum, vetiver essence, papyrus essence, leather, incense, benzoin resin, amber, musk

I gratefully received my bottle from Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studios.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Ms. Verleure was so generous that I am paying it forward with a 10-ml decant to any reader in the US resident only. To enter, please name which is your favoritephoto or fragrance from the Olfactive Studio line and why you would like to experience Ombre Indigo. Draw Ends April 7 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Editor's Note: If you have not read about Celine's Creative Process you will enjoy learning about her background at Kenzo, launching osmoz.com and  how she conceived the concept behind the brand in CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery Series. Congratulations to Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche which is a Fragrance Foundation Finalist in the Indie Fragrance Category 2014 – MIchelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief