New Perfume Review: Nomenclature Lumen_esce (Frank Voelkl) 2017+ Futuristic Violet Draw

Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature New York

Creative directors Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero created Nomenclature in 2015, and continue to shatter and re-invent traditional perceptions of classical perfumery, using neo-sexy synthetic aroma-chemicals."Nomenclature celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules—so exclusive that some, known as “captives,” are zealously guarded by fragrance companies.Through a series of sheer and streamlined compositions, Nomenclature explores their complex facets and their potential for protagonism. Demonstrating that these man-made hybrids of poetry and science have a beauty all their own. The beauty of modernity."

The inaugural collection featured five fragrances composed by perfumers Patricia Choux of Mane and Frank Voelkl of Firmenich. For 2017, Nomenclature’s has turned their sights on rei-nventing violets, going past ionones which have been used in perfumery for over a hundred years (since 1893)  to add sweet and powdery floral nuances to fragrances.  Violet gets a fantastic (or is it phantastic) 21st century upgrade in Nomenclature’s newest, Lumen_esce,  which uses an overdose of the aroma chemical Violettyne©, the sin-qua-non violet-presenting molecule created and patented by Firmenich, 17 years ago.

Digitalized fractal image, Frank and Lumen_esce collage

Editor-in Chief Michelyn Camen asked perfumer Frank Voelkl about  Violettyne© , and he told her, “The molecule I'm using for Lumen_esce is in fact very different from Ionones.


The ionones best represent the floral part of the Violet and are also used in my fragrance. But the Violettyne© is a product that is more representative of the Violet leaves and to me Is sort of laser sharp and almost fluorescent in its expression”.

HOKUS POCUS for 74 Magazine

 So if you are a reader who sees the word “violet” and shy away immediately thinking of Victoriana, the Duchess of Parma or candied perfumes for tween-agers, this is a perfume that is very adult and very 21st century. Lumen_esce is NOT demure, retiring or anything you might associate with any preconceived notions. Robert envisions Jane Jetson before sitting down for a manicure, drinks, and soap operas with her housekeeper Rosie the Robot. Perfect for a 25th Century girls nite-in, Lumen_esce is a space-age violet that shines and glows with a futuristic inner neon light and knife-sharp edges. Named for the measure of light (the lumen), Michelyn believes it is not predictable; a green violet, very green…and as Frank Voelkl notes, leafy rather than flowery.

Vice Germany Magazine

You do sense a slight powder, but it is more explosive than old-fashioned, energized by an electrifying bouquet of florals and magnetized by a base of Patchouli-Prisma, a non-traditional natural note that has been turned upside down, distilled, disassembled and put back together to provide an extra jet-fuel strength blast of woodiness.

Dazed and Confused 2011

Lumen_esce breaks barriers, glass ceilings, and any other preconceived notions of what violet based perfume  s are and sets the bar for what they can be. Michelyn calls it a "power perfume that commands respect and takes no prisoners be it in a boardroom and  bedroom". Lumen_esce is to fragrance what streaming Netflix and Amazon Prime on your tablet is to the days when are to days when there was only three major networks dominate T.V.

Roses are red and violets are fractal.

Notes: Violettyne©, violet leaves, freesia, jasmin-sambac, bergamot, patchouli-prisma.

Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero are the recipients of CaFleureBon’s Best of Scent: 2015 for Creative Direction.

Disclaimer: we received our samples from Nomenclature. Many thanks! Our opinions are our own.

— Robert Herrmann, Contributor and Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Art Direction: Michelyn

Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature, 3 registered readers in the USA only for three sets of 5 Lumen_esce .3 oz deluxe sample sprayers Right now Lumen_esce is available for preorder here. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to about Lumen_esce based on our review, if you have tried any Nomenclature perfumes and your thoughts on neo-synthetic fragrances.  Draw closes February 3, 2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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13 comments

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    What really appeals to me about Lumen_esce is its novelty…something NEW. No I have never tried anything by this house but neo-synthetic fragrances seem to be the future of perfumery…literally! I am in the US.

  • Steve A says:

    What sold me is this line right here, “…a power perfume that commands respect and takes no prisoners be it in a boardroom and bedroom.” I have not tried anything from this particular house but I’m all for neo-synthetic creations. I can’t wait to smell what’s over the horizon. USA

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I like the idea of an explosive, modern violet, full of the bright halogen light described. It’s so exciting to try anything that is truly new in fragrance. I have not tried any Nomenclature perfumes but I love the concept. Neo-synthetic fragrances sound so cool – as I said, anything new is always exciting, so new uses of chemicals is of course thrilling – to see what more we can discover, what more we can make out of what exists.

  • Ellen M says:

    It certainly sounds different from other current fragrances. I’ve not tried anything from this house or neo-synthetic perfumes, but I’m always willing to try something new. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I am a fan of violets, from fusty candied Victorian violets to weird dirty ones (i.e. Ava Luxe’s Midnight Violet and that DSH animalistic violet and leather violets like Jolie Madame) to great uses of violet leaf. I’ve liked what I’ve tried from the line so far. I honestly can’t remember the names of them, but one was a nice iris-ey delight that I kind of wanted to explore more in particular! What I appreciate most about this brand (and neo-synth frags) is nuanced and sophisticated use of synthetics…sort of like the battle between traditionalism and progress in all forms of art! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US

  • Su says:

    I have being trying a lot of natural perfumes and it will be interesting to see what this does differently and how much of a different effect it creates.

    Violet comes off to me as powdery, hope to see another side of it.
    In USA.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am intrigued by Lumen_esce because it redefines how violets can be used. I welcome neosynthetic perfumes because they expand the creative potential. I have not tried anything from Nomenclature yet. I am in the US.

  • rodelinda says:

    I love violet, but I don’t shy away from powdery or old-fashioned, so I’m not sure how I’d feel about this extremely modern look at the flower. It sounds interesting, though, so I’d love to try it. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Richard Potter says:

    Sounds fascinating. I’m not well versed in violet, having only tried Oriza LeGrand’s Violettes du Czar. I’d love to explore this note.

  • doveskylark says:

    I’d like to try a take-no-prisoners violet fragrance. I like the idea of deconstructing fragrances, turning tables on the expected norms. I’d like to explore more neo-synthetic fragrances. Orb_ital from the Nomenclature line sounds very intriguing.
    I live in the USA.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Impressive article on Violet. Sounds interesting!…..Violet don’t constantly overpower and don’t fade out. They just disappear and come back, like magic. So as Nomenclature Lumen_esce is NOT demure, retiring or anything you might associate with any preconceived notions. Haven’t tried any from Nomenclature yet.
    Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in NY, US.

  • hofken says:

    Lumen_esce, “energized by an electrifying bouquet of florals and magnetized by a base of Patchouli-Prisma, a non-traditional natural note that has been turned upside down, distilled, disassembled and put back together to provide an extra jet-fuel strength blast of woodines” sounds like an interesting fragrance. I have not yet tried any Nomenclature perfumes, but I think neo-synthetic fragrances sound fascinating.

  • Valentine Girl says:

    I usually shy away from powdery violets, but I am intrigued by the description of the Violettyne© being more reminiscent of green violet leaves. Have not yet tried any of the Nomenclature line, but Lumen_esce sounds magnetic! Fascinating to find out the that exclusive, jealously guarded fragrance molecules are known as “captives”. Thanks for the draw. USA resident.