New Perfume Review: Nomenclature Efflor_esce + Fractal Flower Draw

Ryuichi Sakamoto and Alva Noto electronic music

Ryuichi Sakamoto and  Alva Noto (digitalized MC)

Alva Noto & Ryuichi Sakamoto - Vrioon (Akasari Spacial Rework)

The weekend is almost here so put a record on, dim the lights, and relax. My music of choice for this weekend is Vrioon, an amazing 2002 collaboration between Ryuichi Sakamoto and German musician Alva Noto which I believe is among the best experimental electronic music. As I listen to Vrioon I spray my wrists with Efflor_esce, my favorite fragrance from the new Nomenclature collection created by Karl Bradl (founder of Aedes de Venustas in 1995) and Carlos Quintero (fashion and interior designer). Notes float in the air,  music and molecules in an ever-changing hologram where harmony plays in a reverted paradigm.  Synthetic smoothness allows the magic facets of the  naturals to emerge with precise dynamics out of the master fingers in praise of beauty out of the lab.

firmenich frank voelkl patricia choux nomenclature perfumes

Frank Voelkl and Patricia Choux of Firmenich  for Nomenclature Perfumes Digitalized Michelyn

Post-molecular perfumery with its sleek elegance uses the best synthetics available on the market highlighted by reflections of nature. This is the concept behind Nomenclature debuting with four eau de parfum: iri_del (iris aldehyde) and orb_ital (orbitone) created by Patricia Choux of Mane together with efflor_esce (paradisone) and addr_ett (helvetolide) created by Frank Voelkl which are composed by  aromachemicals from Firmenich. Like Ryuichi and Alva both perfumers are composing more than fragrance, but  introducing a different  structure  and beauty to render the next generation perfumery.

According to Sr Perfumer Frank Voelkl: "The challenge was to showcase a molecule with a singular note  and dress it up in a way that adds sufficient complexity.To make it an enjoyable and well performing fragrance without taking away the purity and beauty of it".

Fractal Flower 2by Geannunziataaustin

Fractal Flower by Geannunziataaustin

Efflor_esce is my favorite in the line.  Verging more on the jasmine milkness than the orange blossom crispness prominent in its 1962 forerunner hedione, the floral cybercloud of Efflor_esce is  empowered by the amazing silkiness of paradisone, a captive “haute –couture” molecule discovered at Firmenich in 1996 . Many years have past since 1966 when Edmond Roudnitska’s masterpiece,  Eau Sauvage put  Hedione on the scent map, but if with hedione perfumes started to dance and diffuse, with Paradisone (which had thousand times the diffusiveness of hedione) perfumes  literally  vibrate and radiate. So like the chord of Mr Sakamoto high pitches resound with the electronic minimalism of Mr Noto spreading their unreal aura; touches of mandarin and bergamot brighten with a citric register the opening of the perfume. The effect greatly emphasizes the bright side of the jasmine-derived synthetic to the point it conveys a citrus jasmine cologne in the lines of the latest Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li but it goes far beyond it, a bright fractal flower.

white fractal flowers osmanthius

White Fractal Flower by Michelyn

The heart and base of Efflor_esce reveals the warmer notes of chinese osmanthus giving depth and adding an apricot-tinged leathery fruitiness like the substantive central notes added by the piano to build a parallel layer sometimes dissonant, sometimes in harmony. The final touch is provided by tuberose absolute subtly pushing the sensual white floral facets of Paradisone. Its shameless beauty obsessively pulsates like Alva Noto bass line, which always sound to me both  hypnotic and aloof.

Efflor_esce has good longevity and you can get  glowing whiffs of it on your skin for a good seven hours.

The review is based on samples provided by Nomenclature’s Italian distributor

–Contributor Ermano Picco and Editor of Le Gardenia nell’ Occhiello

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen

nomenclature effloresce

Thanks to Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero we have a draw for our US, Canada and  EU registered readers (you need to do this folks), we have your choice of 3.4 oz Efflor_esce or a sampler kit of all four including efflor_esce, iri_del, ard_drett and orbi_ital. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Ermano’s review, what you think of generation next synthetics, where you live and your choice of prize. Draw closes November 22, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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24 comments

  • Jo says:

    I was SO excited to see Ryuichi Sakamoto and Alva Noto’s collaboration featured in this review! I love their music, and reading Ermano’s experience of it in relation to Efflor_esce makes me want to try the same.

    I’m not sure if I have a solid opinion on next generation synthetics, but this review made me think of all the possibilities for multi-sensory experiments, like matching scent to music (eg. Unsound’s Ephemera project).

    I live in Canada and I’d love to win Efllor_esce. Thank you 🙂

  • pursejunkie says:

    Thanks for the hedione history. I actually really like synthetics, and I’m sure they’re just going to keep getting better. I would love to win a sample set.

  • Reg says:

    Very delightful to read a perfume review with references to Nato’s and Sakamoto’s music that set the tone for a complex set of fragrances. I believe that there is still much to be discovered by using synthetics and I’m looking forward to it. I live in the EU and I’d choose the sampler set should I win, as I’m keen to try orbi_tal as well as the other fragrances. Thanks for the draw.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Efflor_esce seems an interesting perfume with floral milky themes..i must admit it has taken me some time to come around synthetics but now i am grateful for them. the smells in the nature can be limited and synthetics have significantly broaden our scent horizon…in fact, synthetics have played a prominent role in some of my most favorite fragrances including vintage eau sauvage which is famous for hedione. thanks a lot for the draw. I am in the US

  • Wayne says:

    What a lovely review – the premise of the tension between the natural and synthetic and the parallel to music was inspired! The next gen synthetics? Where would we be wihout Iso E Super??? Of course they have a crucial role to play in perfume today. I live in NY and would choose the single bottle – sure and I would love to sample the several offerings, but that BOTTLE is so gorgeous!!

  • Claudia says:

    I am intrigued by this line, I am perfectly fine with synthetics and I love that they do not limit in the way nature does. The bottles in this line are cool too, they remind me of lab cylinders turned into bottles. Efflor_esce sounds wonderful especially floral milky which is very appealing. I would definitely chose the bottle to experience this fragrance. 🙂 Thank you for the wonderful draw.

  • AD says:

    Your description of the effects that paradisone gives makes my nose perk up. I’m curious to see what this material smells like. I generally don’t mind synthetics as long as they are used in an interesting way and does not smell too sharp. I love hedione in perfumes, especially when used in perfumes like Diorella, and First.

    I live in Canada. Thanks for the draw.

    If I win, I would choose the bottle of Efflor_esce.

  • Systeme D says:

    I am very interested in new directions in perfumery, and while artisanal all-naturals are pushing the envelope in one direction, synthetics developed and elaborated upon in the best labs are cutting-edge in the other.

    Ermano puts his finger on one of the beauties of synthetics — longevity!

    I can truly appreciate synthetics, and I’d love to get my nose on these. I would definitely choose the sampler, but wow, those flacons are great!

    I am in the US.

  • Iphigenia says:

    Lovely review loved Ruichi Sakamoto collaboration he is one of my favorite composers. As far as synthetics is concerned I like them for the fact that they add longevity in a perfumes life span and would also loved them more if they combined the finesse that natural perfumes have.
    I am a registered reader living in EU and draw thank you for this review and draw.

  • Steve A says:

    I like synthetics as well as natural and combination scents. Sometimes you’re in the mood for a quality synthetic. I did not know Eau Sauvage put Hedione on the map. I am most interested in what new science can do for synthetics. Love to have the sample set. US

  • Anastasia says:

    I have been really excited by this line as the concept and bottles are amazing. I read more on ir_del. But efflor_esce sounds even more beautiful I was hypnotized by both the art using fractal flowers and the music of Alva Noto and Ryouichi Sakamoto which was amazing to watch and listen
    I will choose the sampler

  • sunnlitt says:

    Well, ‘jasmine milkiness’ and ‘perfumes that vibrate and radiate’ certainly sound amazing.
    I am not sure what I think of the ‘next generation’ of synthetics–I guess that I need to investigate more.
    I live in the U.S. and I would love to experience the scent of Efflor_esce.
    Thank you.

  • Hootlia says:

    What a poetic review! Comparing electronic music to a synthetic fragrances makes perfect sense. While anything synthetic probably starts out mimicking something in nature, it’s only a matter of time before some creative finds a way to make it shine in its own right. I also love the notion of an haute-couture molecule. It’s so interesting to see that with new synthetics there is a celebration of the very fact that they are lab-created, rather than trying to hide this fact behind a facade of naturalism.

    I live in Canada and I’d love to win the sample set.

  • Laurels says:

    I like radiance and longevity in perfumes, although modern synthetics are hit-and-miss for me; some smell great, and my nose turns others into chemical soup. I’m in the US, and I’s choose the bottle of Efflor-esce.

  • Diego says:

    Great review as always! I knew this house a short time ago by Carlos Brooklyn Fragrance Lover and I really liked the idea. On occasion Carlos talked about Iri_del and now with Ermano’s review about Efflor_esce confirmed my expectations for this house.
    Generally the niche houses tend to use natural products, or try to give us this idea, and this house came with a reverse idea, which is cool, because what matters ultimately is that all the notes together transform into something unique, enjoyable and pleasurable to our noses.
    I think the next generation of synthetic will bring us more and more unusual smells like (that of a wet stone after spending hours on a scorching sun) or the composition of odors never before imagined. Everything created in the laboratory jointly with studies of how each odor activates our brain. So every scent will activate the brain sensations of pleasure, joy, passion or even other feelings I think.
    The creators of the brand also had a good creativity with this name ‘Nomenclature’, and seems to meet very well with the purpose of perfumes.
    I live in US and I’d love to try Efflor-esce.

  • Timea says:

    Interesting and nice review. In my opinion, the synthetic things are not bad, but I prefer the natural things. M choice is 3.4 oz Efflor_esce. I live in Europe.

  • Megri says:

    Thanks for the review and draw! The combination of milky jasmine and orange blossom sounds lovely. Unfortunately,most synthetic perfumes give me a headache.
    Would love to try the bottle of Efflor-esce.
    I live in Europe.

  • jiminy says:

    I loved Ermano’s highlighting of Vrioon and paralleling it to Nomenclature’s approach and craft. I am all for synthetics and look forward to how the fragrance world will evolve as more molecules, particles, and compounds are discovered and developed.

    I am in the US and would be very happy with efflor_esce shall I be lucky enough. Thanks for the draw.

  • Rosa says:

    Love, love jasmine! My absolute favorite note in a fragrance! Efflor-esce sounds gorgeous, it will be my choice.

    I have nothing against using synthetics, Thanks for the draw! US

  • Greg Sh says:

    Thanks for the review! This fragrance sounds quite interesting. I have nothing against synthetics, as long as it helps the fragrance and not done as a shortcut. I love the sound of this scent though. My choice is the 3.4 oz. Thanks and I’m in Canada

  • girasole638 says:

    I appreciated the background on hedione, and I think the comparison of synthetics to electronic music is apt. I don’t have any problem with synthetics at all – which is good, because even most of the great old classics we love to talk about were made possible because of synthetic compounds that were cutting edge at the time! I think it’s very easy for us to see the trend as something modern, rather than a gradual shift that’s been happening for a long time (the same can be said for some changes in music, which is why the comparison holds so well!). I’d love to be able to try the full bottle of Efflor_esce (although orb_ital and idi_del sound gorgeous too, I’m smitten by the awesome Erlenmeyer flask bottle!). I’m in the US.

  • Vick G says:

    Honestly, I do prefer natural ingredients used in fragrances. I just think they give a more “real” feeling to the person wearing it. I have tried many great scents that used synthetics though. I do love the bottle design of this one. I would love to win the 3.4 oz Efflor_esce. Canadian reader

  • sandipants says:

    i was most intrigued by ermano’s description of the abstract electronic music as it relates to the fragrances: a multi-disciplinary collaboration. i would love to win the sampler pack & live in the states. thank you!

  • Greg Mayne says:

    This house sounds very interesting. I haven’t heard of them, but I’m definitely a fan now. I don’t have a problem with synthetics in fragrances at all. Thank you for the draw and I’d love to win the 3.4 oz bottle.

    Canada