New Perfume Review: Naomi Goodsir Or du Sérail – The Scent of the Seraglio Harem

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Naomi Goodsir and her partner Renaud Coutaudier

When I was at Esxence, the Scent of Excellence, I was intrigued by a lovely, milky-skinned woman with interesting hats. She was Naomi Goodsir, an Australian living in France, who besides helming her fragrance line is also an accomplished high-couture milliner. I approached her booth when I noticed that perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour was also there, and was given a sniff of the new perfume he created for Naomi Goodsir Parfums, Or du Sérail.  The perfume is based around a golden tobacco, and is right in my wheelhouse. I think M. Duchaufour enjoyed seeing my eyes close in pleasure as I held the paper mouilette to my nose.

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In the Harem by F. Fasce

Or du Sérail means “gold seraglio”, and this perfume does conjure images of the fantastical interpretations of the royal harems of the Middle East. Alongside the pungent tobacco are notes of dried figs and ripe dates, imparting a sweet succulence. Golden amber aromas, followed by slightly animalic musk and wood notes, create a haze of lounging in desert heat in opulent rooms full of warm bodies and textured cloth saturated in smoke from a hookah.

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GBD Topaz by Timothy Jones

More realistically, this perfume makes me think of the pipe tobacco my father used when I was a kid. Many of those tobaccos were infused with various fruity aromas, but my dad tended toward less cherry-soaked and more honeyed, not quite as adulterated by candy. The smoke was sweet, but still undeniably tobacco. I have a strong emotional attachment to the smell of tobacco, obviously, and always love finding a perfume that takes me to that place.

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In the Harem by Edouard Frederic Wilhelm Richter

Ultimately, for me, this perfume is comfort with an aura of the exotic. The drydown brings out the sweetness of the desert fruits along with soft woods. M. Duchaufour composed this fragrance as adeptly as we are accustomed to experiencing with his scents, but for me this is exceptional. I liked all of the fragrances from Naomi Goodsir; they are atmospheric and rich, and Or du Sérail fits right in.

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A true notes list was not available but the description on the hand-sewn booklet I received says “A gourmand & textured perfume, evocative of a golden tobacco. An ambery, woody, musky & greedy composition.”

My sample was given to me by Naomi Goodsir Parfums. Or du Sérail will be available starting in May at Naomi Goodsir Parfums stockists.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

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9 comments

  • This sounds , as you put it Tama, “right in my wheelhouse”. I am a Duchaufour fangirl. Really liked the Naomi Goodsir website design also!

  • Tama, I too have an olfactory attraction to tobacco. I loved that he BD enjoyed watching your reaction, connection to the fragrance. I really must sample this one.. Thanks for the review.

  • Ooh, this sounds very interesting. Back in the days when smoking was acceptable at work, I hated the cigarette smoke but liked the pipe smoke.

  • Latifah S says:

    That sounds amazing! Bois d’ Ascese was has been my favorite find of the past year. I find it remarkably beautiful. I cannot wait to give this new one a whiff. :-D. Thanks for the review

  • Anastasia says:

    Tama enchanted me with her first publication about M.Goodsir form her Esxence coverage! I will enjoy sampling Or du Serail when it arrives in May! I too, remember shopping for pipe tobacco on every gift-giving occasion as a young girl with my father, for his grandfather. I would beg to be taken along to the tobacco shops to smell the heavenly aromas permeating the store! Lovely article Tama, Regards and Thanks! 🙂