August 26, 2014
This review of the new Pluriel fragrances by Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris is meant to be accompanied by Claudine Longet's interpretation of the theme to the 1966 Claude Lelouch movie A Man and a Woman (Un homme et une femme) starring starring Anouk Aimée and Jean-Louis Trintignant.
I read an article in Vanity Fair recently featuring Master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian that resonated with me as I sat down to review his two latest fragrances masculin Pluriel and féminin Pluriel. He quoted Pablo Picasso ‘You copy, you copy, and one day you miss your copy, and you create a masterpiece.’ M. Kurkdjian has created two new unique perfumes for his eponymous Maison Francis Kurkdjian that at times borrow from his own body of work yet are completely original and distinctive.
Photo:Maison Francis Kurkdjian Website
What can be more classic and masculine than the fougere? Masculin Pluriel opens on a slightly soapy note that is a nod to past, of barbershops and shaving cream. As it develops, a wonderfully green vetiver rests on top of very high quality lavender absolute. With an opening that's this traditional, it is a surprise to find an unexpected twist is at the dry down. M. Kurkdjian creates a marvelous and distinctive leather accord, one that isn’t in your face "macho" or heavy handed; there is a hint of rough and tumble that is woody, slightly spicy and dry. masculin Pluriel exemplifies that the strength of a man comes from within.
Photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian website
As masculin Pluriel is pure man, feminin Pluriel is pure woman. Her softness, her curves, the delicate radiance of her powdered skin comes to life at first sniff. At first, féminin Pluriel basks in her own traditional beauty. Gauzy iris and rose give way to the delicacy of orange blossom and muguet that glow with a white light that is crystalline. As the fragrance develops, the classic blooms morph into what is so gorgeously different about this perfume. There is an incredible chypre accord that lingers for hours on my skin, a study in texture and contrast. The velvet chocolate tinged patchouli is amplified by razor sharp vetiver that momentarily shocks and changes the classic floral perfume into something more… a scent that is totally modern and of the moment.
feminin Pluriel notes from the Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris website: Iris from Florence – Violet – Rose from Grasse – Jasmine from Egypt – Lily of the valley – Orange blossom – Vetiver – Patchouli from Indonesia
A Man and A Woman: Jean-Louis Trintignant and Anouk Aimée
masculin Pluriel and féminin Pluriel are sublime in their masterful, modern interpretation of two classic genres. Together, they create a fragrant diptych that makes for the perfect perfume paring.
Disclosure: We received our samples from Europerfumes, the US distributor of Maison Francis Kukdjian
–Steve Lindquist, Contributor and Editor of The Scented Hound (with contributions from and art direction by Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief)
Through the generosity of EuroPerfumes USA we have carded sprayer samples of both masculin Pluriel and féminin Pluriel for a US reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about both or either and if you have a favorite Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfume. Draw ends August 31, 2014
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