New Perfume Review: Le Labo Thé Noir 29 + To Have and Have Not Draw

cafleurebonCreative Directors Fabrice Penot and Eduard Roschi   le labo cafleurebon

Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi of Le Labo

Founded in 2006 by Creative Directors Fabrice Penot and Eduard Roschi  of  Le Labo — the lab, was a game changer.  With the scenting apothecary as a point of inspiration every fragance is carefully built to formula. 

le labo fragrances

Photo: Preparing a  Le Labo fragrance 

And every scent, is hand blended and prepared, on site,with both the name of the preparer as well as the recipient on the plain white label of each bottle. Le Labo is known by  for its exacting standards, the fragrance alternative to the farm to table movement.

 

 firmenich offices frank voelkl le labo  cafleurebon

Photo of Frank Voelkl of Firmenich  (Michelyn)

There are some who might be skeptical of the House’s first venture post acquisition by corporate powerhouse Estée Lauder. Would this be a mainstream varietal?  Fear not: Thé Noir 29, composed by Frank Voelkl of Firmenich , (the de facto perfumer for Le Labo  for a few years now, and whose first fragrance for the House was Iris 39 in 2006) is a worthy addition to the House’s Classic Collection. 

The name suggests that the principal essence is black tea and the highest concentration of the 29 notes in its composition. It is not to my nose. This should come as no shock to those who know Le Labo. The names of their fragrances often belie the outcome of the scent on skin. After all, the cult Rose 31 is famous for its strong cumin note. Black tea or not, this fragrance is pleasing;  there is a translucent quality that may not seem “noir”… at first.

LEGOUTERJeanMetzinger

 Le Gouter Jean Metzinger (1911)

With Le Labo Thé Noir 29 prepare yourself for the sensual pleasure of a “conceptual” tea ritual. As Marcel Proust, wrote in Swann’s Way: “She poured out Swann’s tea, inquired “Lemon or cream?” and, on his answering “Cream, please,” said to him with a laugh: “A cloud!” And as he pronounced it excellent, “You see, I know just how you like it.” This tea had indeed seemed to Swann, just as it seemed to her; something precious, and love has such a need to find some justification for itself, some guarantee of duration, in pleasures which without it would have no existence and must cease with its passing.” It is a transitional moment, hiding behind the mask of the ritual but heavy like a morning after. It is ripe with regrets yet open to the possibilities which might come”.

Lauren Bacall smoking and drinking tea Joe Allens NY

Lauren Bacall smoking and drinking tea at Joe Allen’s Restaurant in the Theater District  NYC 1940s 

Bergamot jumps right out and dances about. This sweet, high note flirts with you while it slowly allows the fig and bay leaves to reveal themselves and yes a tannic quality, as if the teabag has been steeping for a few minutes in your cup. It’s fleeting; tea time is a short one. The dry down comes pretty quickly, and with great intensity, as Frank Voelkl’s signature woody finish settles on the skin.  Vetiver, cedar wood, a whiff of hay and musk give way to swirls of cigarette smoke.  Just as Proust wrote  about his tea,  Le Labo Thé Noir 29 tells a story of the moments in life where we might experience the unexpected. It is also the fragrant equivalent of smoke and mirrors as it lingers on your skin and, hours later, reminds you of why it is actually there at all, before it finally fades…and leaves you wanting more.

Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart To Have or Have Not

Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart in “To Have and Have Not”   1948  

Le Labo Thé Noir 29 is the To Have or Have Not of Le Labo’s Classic Collection, the duality of strong masculine woods and sultry smoke.  For me it’s more Bacall than Bogey. The femme fatale cigarette both Slim’s seduction prop and her husky voice coming from an unlikely slender frame..  Wearing Thé Noir 29, “You don’t have to say anything, and you don’t have to do anything. Not a thing. Oh, maybe just whistle”

Disclosure: I received my sample from Le Labo, opinions my own.

Liza Wade, Contributor

Art Direction -Michelyn with digital Le Labo-izing

Thé Noir 29 10 ml cafleruebon

Thanks to our friends at Le Labo we have a 10 ml sprayer for a registered reader in the USA, Canada or the EU (you must do this or your comment won’t count). To be eligible please leave a comment with why you would like to win Le LaboThé Noir 29, where you live and your favorite Le Labo Fragrance. Draw closes November 1, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

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47 comments

  • Madeleine Gallay says:

    i love Bacall, To Have and Have Not and femme fatales in black and white.

    Le Labo The Noir 29 ,,, this: :”You don’t have to say anything, and you don’t have to do a thing. Not a thing. Oh, maybe just whistle.”

    Hand-blended, so carefully. What an exquisite craft.

    Thank you. USA.

  • Believe it or not, I haven’t smelled any Le Labo fragrance to date. I think that’s a great reason to want to win. 🙂 USA

  • Carolyn Gudgel says:

    Fig, smoke and wood completely win me over! Not to mention I love Black & white movies. Bogey & Beall both icons. How wonderful indeed. Never tried Le Laboratory so this would be an absolute treat for me. Thank you.
    Carolyn

  • I’ve never experienced a Le Labo fragrance, but I’ve enjoyed reading about them. This sounds like a wonderful introduction! My favorite part of this review is the description of the base and middle notes, and the description of tea time. It was highly evocative!

  • I’d love to win Thé Noir 29 because it film noir and tea are two of my favourite things – all the better if they’re combined into a fragrance! I live in Canada and my favourite Labo is Santal 33.

  • Claire spriggy says:

    The dry down sounds delicious, I’d love to try it. My favourite le labo is the Gaiac 10 so far from what I’ve tried. I’m in the Uk.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Bacall and Bogey vying for the metaphor for the drydown–sounds great! I’ve seen some reviews calling this figgy, and I’m glad to see it wasn’t listed as a prominent feature in this review. I love all things tea and most things Le Labo, so I am dying to try this. I love quite a few–Benjoin, Vanille, Poivre, Rose, Musc, and even the much-maligned Limette (also by Voekl). I’m in the US.

  • I would love to win The Noir 29 in order to have a chance to explore their line of fragrances. I have yet to try any but have heard such fantastic things. It would give me a great introduction. I therefore do not have a favorite. I live in USA. Thanks.

  • alisonstarting2happen says:

    Thank you! This sounds lovely and sort of like the kind of scent I’ve been searching for. I love smokey scents that aren’t all burning leaves and have a bit of a sultry femininity to it. Also, that scene is so classic. It took me a long time to give this house a try and once I did, I was pleasantly surprised. I love the drydown of Cuir 28 (hated the opening) and I love the pretty florals in Lys 49 – reminds me of San Francisco in the spring (which is where I currently live). Thank you!

  • I’m always up to try a new smoky and woody fragrance. Slightly disappointed to hear that the black tea note did not last long. My favorite Le Labo is Lys 41. Such a magnificent white floral.

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw.

  • The only fragrance I have tried so far is Ylang 49. It took 4 wears before I began to begin to understand the fragrance, Will keep trying. It definitely grows on you to the point where you long for it. I would love to try Noir 29 especially since I miss cigarettes soooo much. A very good substitute, don’t ya think? I live in US, North Carolina.

  • my fav le labo is bergamote22, my fav citrus, and top 3 summer frag. I’m from NY, and want to win the noir 29 cause i haven’t smelt it yet and def find all of their frags unique, even the ones that aren’t for me

  • When i looked at the pictures of Bacall and Humphrey, I could not help but wonder how much internet is keeping their classical aura alive and introducing their glamour to new generations. I am intrigued by The Noire because Tea is one of the notes I like, after being introduced to Bvlgari Au the Vert extreme early during my perfumista journey. thanks a lot for the draw. My favorite Le Labi is Santal 33. I am in the US

  • What a cool take on Le Labo. I love Tuberose 40 and Bergamote 22. Also it’s good to know that the company stayed true to its roots. Fig, black tea, Vetiver and tobacco sounds really masculine so it’s interesting that Thè Noir 29 is more Bacall than Bogey
    Love the movie btw
    USA

  • Would love to try this interesting fragrance. My favorite lalabo fragrance would have to be bergermot 22 already on my 3 bottle.

  • I love tea scents and I have never sampled anything from this house. Awesome shot of Bacall <3 ! I'm in NYC in the US.

  • I would love to experience Noir 29 for its notes black tea, bergamot, fig, cedar wood notes, musk and smoke and for the description that mentions that this perfume has a dual character masculine with a hint of sensuality, to have or have not, Lauren and Bogy.
    My favorite Le Labo is Vanille but I would love to try this one for it surely must be exceptional.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.
    Thank you for this lovely draw and review as well which Ii enjoyed reading.

  • marcopietro says:

    Quotes chosen for the article are effective, appropriate and evocative; great choice! The “Formula Le Labo” is now a guarantee and also the last exit will hold the usual quality of the brand, also the choice of fascinating images of Baccall is irresistible!
    My favorite Le Labo is Cuir 28.
    I’m in EU
    Thanks!

  • I want to win this because Smokey fragrances are one of my favorite genres of fragrances. Poivre 23 is my favorite Le Labo and I live in U.S..

  • pursejunkie says:

    Bergamot, bay, vetiver and cedar? Sign me up, please. And cigarette smoke? Just put your lips together and blow! My two favorite Le Labos are Benjoin 19 and Vanille 44.
    U.S.

  • I would love to try Thé Noir 29 because the notes sound right up my alley. Currently my favorite Le Labo is Bergamote 22.
    I live in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • Rodney Q. Wallace says:

    I would love to win Le Labo The Noir 29 because it seems to invoke a spirit of spontaneity and mystery.
    I live in the US, North Carolina.
    My favorite Le Labo (and one of my all time favorite fragrances) is Bergamote 22.
    Thank you!

  • bunchofpants says:

    Tea and bergamot … I love Earl Grey! The only Le Labo I know so far is Patchouli 24, so I guess it would be my favorite! I’m in USA.

  • I drink tea every day, so what better way to drink it then to be wearing Le Labo The Noir 29? The onscreen chemisty of Bogart and Bacall in To Have and Have not and The Big Sleep is insane. I wonder what it was like to see those movies for the first time in the ’40s on the big screen. U.S.

  • littleengine says:

    My little fragrance appreciation group plans to explore spicy, smoky fragrances next, and this one would be a perfect one to sample. My favorite LeLabo scent is, perhaps predictably, Rose 31. It’s just amazing. I’m in the U.S. Thanks!

  • Very nice article. I have never tried any of Le Labo Fragrance. I would very like to win Le LaboThé Noir 29, because from the review it sounds very interesting. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Hay, smoke and a suggestion of tea – the fragrance sounds wonderful. I always crave smoky, hazy scents at this time of year. I also love the art direction of this piece – so evocative. Perhaps the best yet! I haven’t met any Le Labo scents yet, but I’m working on remedying that. I’m in the US.

  • Mrs. MacDonald says:

    I know how to whistle 😉 I have never tried any of Le Labo’s fragrances, just too hard to get in Canada, where i am from…would just love so much to try one!

  • This one sounds absolutely delightful. Would really like to try it.
    I didn’t have a chance to try Le Labo scents. U.S. thanks!

  • Shauna Rudd says:

    I’m always on the lookout for the perfect black tea scent, and this has all the markings of great promise! Absolutely count me in! I’m in Canada, and my favourite Le Labo perfume is Jasmine 17, a gift from my husband on Mothers’ Day 🙂

  • I really like Le Labo fragrances. My favorites are Bergamote 22 and Rose 31.
    The Noir 29 seems to be a nice fragrance with this tea vibe and I like this type of fragrance sounds very comforting.
    I’m in the USA.

  • Hello there,

    I love anything THE and especially fragrances as amazingly crafted as Le Labo. My favorite is Patchouli 24 which confuses folks in my office when I wear it! I live in NYC/USA.

    Thanks so much.
    Deb

  • I’d love to win Thé Noir 29 as I don’t have to say or do anything wearing it. I live in the EU and my favourite Le Labo is Ylang 49. Thanks for the draw.

  • What!!! Smoke and Mirrors.. I would love this one just because I too love Frank Voelkl’s signature woody finish. Loved the line more Bacall than Bogey. My favorites of Le Labo are Labdanum 18 & Limette, I could go on but will not. I am a registered US reader.

  • My favourite Le Labo is Poivre 23 and I would love to try this as it’s the only one I haven’t tried. I am in the UK

  • Le Labo is the house that has always got my attention. It started with my love for Patchouli 24, but there are many other lovely fragrances. I also love Iris 39 and Neroli 36. Bacall or Bogey, never mind, I love them both! A combination of bergamot, fig and bay leaf sounds fantastic, as well as woody, smoky drydown. I’d love to experience Thé Noir 29. I’m in the EU, Croatia. Thank you.

  • I would love to win Noir 29 because I’ve been a big fan of this house for some time now. My favorite is Patchouli 24 with Rose 31 being a close second. I’m in the U.S.

  • Maybe I’m just being seduced by the great Becall and Bogart photos, but it sounds like a nice scent for the approaching cool weather. I have never tried a La Labo scent and I live in the USA. Thanks!

  • I would love to win because le labo is a great concept. My faves are labdanum ylang benjoin and lys. I live in the US. Thanks.

  • Every fragrance with the name noir in it has my attention. My favorite is Labdanum 18. I live in EU. Thanks for this draw.

  • I’m a huge fan of Le Labo! They always bring out extremely well made fragrances. This one sounds like another winner to me. My favorite from the house would be Bergamote 22. Thank you for the draw and I’m in Canada!

  • Oh my. a whiff of hay and musk? Cigarette smoke? Fantastic, sounds right up my alley. Maybe beause I don’t smoke anymore, smoke in fragrances always intrigues me. Consider me very intrigued by this Le Labo! Thus far, my favorite is Labdanum. But i think The noir 29 will really do it for me. I’m in the US, thanks!

  • A tea addict here writing – please, let me win this one!!!
    Black or green, neat or milky, hot or iced – I indulge into tea on a daily basis!!!
    I do not know many fragrances from Le Labo, but I really like Labdanum 18 and Bergamotte 22.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU). Thank you for the chance!

  • Great review on this magical scent. I haven’t gotten a chance to smell it yet but I’m sure that I’ll love it. My favorite from the house is Rose 31.

    Canada

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I don’t know any LeLabo Fragrance yet. I live in the EU, Austria. Zhanks for the draw.