Original poster for the 1962 left bank film Cléo de 5 à 7 starring Corrine Marchand as a pop singer who awaits test results to determine if she has cancer from 5-7 PM
Cléo de 5 à 7 is the latest creation from natural perfumer Heather Kaufman of JOLIE LAIDE PERFUME. Ms. Kaufman was first inspired to compose this fragrance, which is named for the 1962 film, while smelling Kamala Attar from White Lotus Aromatics. Scented memories of her mother’s old purses from the 1960s also contributed to the creation as she wanted to capture the smell of leather, perfume, scented lipstick and cigarettes mingling together like the dim lit images of French Noir Cinema.
Movie still: Cléo de 5 à 7
First impressions are everything. From first whiff , Cléo de 5 à 7 is a true perfume… very melodramatic, sensual and taunting in its presentation. While in design school, I learned very early on that presentation is nine tenths of everything. This is akin to what we know as a first impression. While it is very important in the fashion world, it also speaks with a resounding voice in the art of perfumery. Now let us talk about the most important the remaining one tenth, the life of a perfume and the experience one has with it. I am obsessed with turning a beautiful garment inside out to take a closer look at its real beauty, the interior. Is a French seam, was it hand picked, what love and care went into the making of this creation? For me this will determine the magnitude of its first impression, the outer surface.
Movie Still from Cléo de 5 à 7
Cléo de 5 à 7 is a lady clothed in a five layer crepe de chine pant suit tailored by the hands of a couturier's artisan. She reveals her feminine odor sweetly through the humidity and perspiration of a summer’s evening. Cléo de 5 à 7 is bursting with citrus florals that remind me of the June blooming Magnolia Grandiflora.This fragrance is womanly, sexual, oozing with heavy citrus and floral notes on top, giving way to a sort of candied heart. Its strong feminine odor is ever present throughout the harmony of this scentual creation. As the candied center fades away, it begins to give way to hints of night blooming jasmine and booziness. However, it's very subtle and works in harmony with sparkles of rose and pink lotus. I felt that this melodius combining of these notes kept the fragrance focused while weaving its way back and forth between the layers unfolding not unlike the young singer Florence Cléo Victoire's journey in the film. There is a smoky transition into the woody base of this fragrance where sandalwood, oudh and balsam figure prominently. The smoke and wood nearly take over the femininity of its earlier stages giving way to a less powerful dip towards the base. It lingers awhile in smooth, powdery incense in contrast to the headiness at the top.
Movie Still Cléo de 5 à 7 (1962)
At this stage, I kept returning to it to find the perfume's feminine character. After a while on my skin, the florals return intermingled with oudh, ambrette and a citrus quality peeking through the bottom weaving back into the fold of this creation. Cléo de 5 à 7 is very persistent is her alluring qualities and I constantly revisited my wrist as her strong feminine qualities became present again.
Movie Still Cléo de 5 à 7 (1962)
Heather Kaufman deftly applied the hand of a high cutter to this fragrant being. I find this perfume very alluring, womanly, and feminine but there is a masculine quality that is equally beguiling. Longevity is excellent, staying with me for four hours without having to re-apply. Cleo is a very mysterious beauty that will hold you captivated in her embrace. Like a beautiful piece of cloth conceived, draped and sewn together in a most magnificent fashion. I am fascinated by Heather and her path to perfumery, so if you missed it, I recommend that you read about Heather Kaufman in CaFleureBon’s Profiles in American Perfumery
Notes: pink lotus, jamine sambac, rose, agarwood, sandalwood
Disclosure: I received my sample from Jolie Laide
-Rodney Hughes, Guest Contributor and Natural Perfumer for Therapeutate Parfums
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Editor’s Note: Rodney Hughes was CaFleureBon’s Natural Perfume Editor in 2010 (one of our founding editors) and we hope he stays. Show him some encouragement as ÇaFleureBon has championed the art of natural perfumery since our inception.
Thanks to Heather Kauffman of Jolie Laide we have a 15 ml EDP bottle of Cleo de 5 a 7 for a US reader. To be eligible please leave a comment with why you would like to try this perfume and feel free to show support for Rodney's review. Draw closes 8/20/2014.
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