New Perfume Review: Etat Libre D’Orange True Lust + An Amorous Complicity Draw

                            le parfum est mort etat libre d'orange  perfumes                                              

I have been playing and flirting with the innuendo and olfactive subversion of Etat Libre d’Orange for so long, I cannot imagine my skin or foxy study without their distinctive square cut, target-blazoned flacons.  The styrax-soaked Molotov reek of Rien was my first, then Jasmin et Cigarette, then Les Sécretions Magnifiques with its bilge and saline sex bloom, Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection, the bloody metallic rose which I adore, Tom of Finland, still one of the finest, most erotic leathers in production. I paused for a while then added L’Après Midi d’Un Faun and Fils de Dieu, both by the masterly hand of Ralf Schwieger, naughty Noël au Balcon and most recently the beautifully odd Le Fin du Monde by Quentin Bisch, a contemplative buttered popcorn and cordite take on the end of the world. It is an iconoclastic, porny house, the Etat motto ‘Le Parfum est Mort! Vive le Parfum!’ is both provocation and cynical wink.

etiennedeswardtand Mathilde Bijaoui cafleurebon

Etienne de Swardt and Mathilde Bijaoui (Fragrance Foundation Award winning LikeThis and she also composed Bijou Romantique)

Creative Director Etienne de Swardt views himself as an editor of these varied, tumbling aromas. He has worked, as he wrote in CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery with a variety of noses to establish an erogenous and socio-political assemblage of giddy scent making including Antoine Lie, Ralf Schwieger, Natalie Feisthauer, Christine Nagel, Mathilde Bijaoui, and Antoine Maisondieu. Recently the house has played things more obliquely. The last trio of releases have all been defiantly unexpected, a nice cologne, a ramped up flanker and a collision of two previous releases. Indolence or provocation? I’m not sure Etienne & Co gives a hoot what we really think, but it’s an interesting if bizarre sideways move. My thoughts on the Cologne are muted, despite a very well held and zingy orange note in the top that is beautiful. The world does not really need ironic cologne. Rien Intense Incense is a deliberate attempt to smoke oud out of the scented game. Never gonna happen. The #oudispassé hashtag is catchy but not quite enough to salvage an enormous roaring blast of scorched styrax, barely held in check by battered spices and one of the driest incense effects I’ve in a while. It’s the scented equivalent to the 50s desert atom bomb blasts…searing radial force. If I had never worn the original Rien, I think I might have perhaps experienced this cacophony of burn in a different way. It has HUGE sillage and linger, sticking to skin with massive rubbered darkness.

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True Lust, Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux is in modern parlance a mash up of Dangerous Complicity by Violaine Collas (2012) and Putain de Palaces by Nathalie Feisthauer (2006), the two fragrances collided together to create an erotic powdered and rather disturbing hybrid. To be honest, I’m not sure if it works, but the complexities of the rendezvous in endless dimly lit slutty olfactive rooms make the experience well worth trying.

 FalllenAngelsEnd

Michelle Reis and Takeshi Keneshiro

Dangerous Complicity is that magnificent final scent from Wong Kar Wai’s 1995 film Fallen Angels as Michelle Reis clings to the gorgeously enigmatic Takeshi Keneshiro on the back on his back, weaving lushly through a neon-lit, smoke drenched streetscape. Lipstick, powder, melancholy, leather and mingled histories of love.

miles aldridge photos

 . Photo collage: Miles Aldridge

Putain de Palaces is the Miles Aldridge woman, glossy, geisha-doll and porno-chic, lolling in endless slick rooms. It’s a strange idea to smear the two together; according to the Etat Libre d’Orange PR stuff …’what emerges from this satanic union of temptation and danger, jeopardy and passion, is a sweet and shocking folly.’ Typically OTT stuff and not quite fair to the rather lovely explosion of lipstick stained pencil-shavings and tea-drenched osmanthus notes that opens the mix. The rummy ginger aura that comes from Dangerous Complicity lies over the retro boudoir scent of Natalie Feisthauer’s rice powder note she generously dusted through Putain’s masked and sensual formulation. Both scents echo lipstick accords in a lovely blur of violet and blushing rose.

MilesAldridge lips

Miles Aldridge

True Lust uses a milky coconut effect like a binding agent to pull the elements together and sweeten the rising animalic tones of the base. A quiet ylang note and that clear peachy osmanthus add a further layer of complexity to proceedings, allowing the echoes of the two original scents to merge a little uncomfortably and overtly at times into blatant erotic grooves. But I think this can be forgiven as the gauzy experimentation and crimson pull of the merger is so intriguing to wear.

 Disclosure – Samples kindly provided by Etat Libre d’Orange

The Silver Fox, Sr Editor and Editor of The Silver Fox

 Editor’s Note: If you live in the USA you can buy True Lust at Twisted Lily

TrueLustBottle

Thanks to Etienne de Swardt and Etat Libre D’Orange we have 100ml of True Lust for any reader worldwide.To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about True Lust, Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux, your favorite Etat Libre D’Orange perfume and where you live. Draw closes February 3, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

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55 comments

  • What appeals to me? Simply the fact that it sounds like a hot mess. But, ELDO wants to challenge. . .I haven’t smelled enough of this line to have a favorite yet. I’ve tried Secretions – of course it’s not, lol. And I quite like Rien Intense, though on me it’s not that intense. Want to try them all, and will someday! Again, I enjoyed your review, Monsieur Fox!

  • What appeals to me about trying this is quite simply the name, True Lust…how could you not want to?My favorite ELdO in my limited trials is Delicious Closet Queen. U.S.A.

  • Well, I’ve never tried an ELDO – but that opening paragraph makes me wonder why I haven’t!! This looks so… intense. And I simply love the graphics choices you made in this review (maybe because I’m Asian and we pop up relatively less often in media, haha). I do like milky coconut, so that is probably the most attractive point in this – but everyone’s skin is different so maybe the whole thing will just be dangerously sexy on me. 🙂 Thanks for the draw, I’m in the U.S.!

  • Interested in the tea scent note – one of my favorite perfumes has a heavy tea scent. I haven’t been lucky enough to pick a favorite perfume. I’m in the US!

  • “milky coconut effect” sounds delicious! I think I would love True Lust because my favorite Etat Libre D’Orange perfume is Putain de Palaces 🙂
    I’m in Russia. Thanks for the opportunity!

  • I never tried Putain de Palaces but love Dangerous Complicity. To my nose Lust (I tried from sample ) is a simply beautiful fragrance and I think this will be a hit for Etat Libre. If there are any animalic notes in True Lust they are tamed on my skin. I simply love this new fragrance and it is on my list to add to my collection. US here and thank you so much fro the generosity. (BTW Bijou Romantique is still my favorite)

  • This is awesome, thank you! I am very curious to see what this “mash up of Dangerous Complicity and Putain de Palaces” might be like. Etat Libre D’Orange has a knack for creating complex, somewhat shocking to the system, scents. The few I have tried, I have either loved or hated. I am of course very curious about this one. My favorite is “Like This.” I am in the US.

  • My favorite is Like This, and I am interested in the coconut plus osmanthus in True Lust. I am in the US, thanks!

  • The idea of perfume mash up is very interesting. It’s be interesting to smell this one. My favorite from ELDO is Like This. It’s very warm and comforting.

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw.

  • My favourites from ELDO are Rien closely followed by Like This.
    Aside from the glorious name and the concept of scent layering within the one bottle, I’m loving the idea of violet with milky coconut. Thank you for the opportunity – I’m in the UK.

  • True Lust may be a hot mess of notes, but lots of people play with combining different scents on their skin. I think this one sounds intriguing. And I do love Putain de Palaces.
    I love in Australia

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I am excited since True Lust, Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux has milky note and it seems to be a beauty since it has been inspired by two other marvelous creations by ELDO. My favorite is Jasmine et Cigarette though Tom of Finland is close second. thanks for the wonderful draw. I am in the US

  • I already heard about Etat Libre d’Orange, but I have never tried anyone of those. I heard that those are quite particular perfumes. I actually like strange perfume scents. So I would like to try True Lust.
    I’m from Europe.

  • I still haven’t tried any of the Etat Libre D’Orange perfumes, although Dangerous Complicity is on my to-try list, along with Like This, Noel au Balcon, and Fils de Dieu. I’m always eager to try anything with an osmanthus note, and as I tend to believe that more is more when it comes to perfume, a mash-up of two scents sounds rather appealing. I’m in the US.

  • I’m so excited to try this, I love Putain de Palaces, and i’m very intrigued by this combination.
    I’m from Romania

  • My favorite is Fils de Dieu, also by Schweiger! I really like Putain, but haven’t tried Dangerous Complicity. I’d love to win this one. I’m in the US.

  • What appeals to me about trying this is that I love already almost everything from ELdO, my favorite one is Rien (of course). I live in Belgium.

  • My favorite Eldo perfume is putain de palaces, which is probably why I am so interested in trying this new hybrid. I live in the US . Thanks

  • True Lust uses a milky coconut effect like a binding agent to pull the elements together and sweeten the rising animalic tones of the base.
    The above part of the review is what really sound interesting to try this new ELdO. My favorite one Is Eau de Protection Rossy de Palma.
    I live in the US. Thanks

  • I have not tried either of the perfumes this is based on. I do like lipstick accords so I’d like to sample this. 🙂 The one I love most from ELdO has been Jasmin et Cigarette. U.S.

  • I’ve never met an ELDO scent that I didn’t like. My favorites are Like This, Noel du Balcon and Divin Enfant. Putain des Palaces being blended into a scent with more presence (it reminds me of a softer JHAG Citizen Queen) is really intriguing to me, and I’d love to try it.

  • My favorite is Jasmin et Cigarette. I also like Putain very much but haven’t tried Dangerous Complicity yet. This blend sounds very interesting. I’m in the US.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Super interesting… I have not tried either of these scents but would love to see how the notes were married. My favorite ELdO is Bijou Romantique. I am in the USA. Thank you for the draw!!!

  • I have come close to buying these two in more than one occasion so I am intrigued to find out what they smell like together and maybe hit two rubber duckies with one stone.

    My favorite ELdO is Tom of Finland.

    I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • My favorite ELdO is Fils de Dieu. It’s also the only one I’ve tried from the line! True Lust sounds intriguing… I do enjoy osmanthus in particular! In in the US. Thanks!

  • breathesgelatin says:

    Ylang and osmanthus are two of my favorite floral notes, so that is appealing about this scent. I own La Fin du Monde so I guess that’s my favorite ELdO – I haven’t explored the line completely yet. I’m in the US.

  • I like very much Fils de Dieu and Tom of Finland. True Lust has something from both: coconut and leather. Plus an interesting note of rum. This one should be a winner.
    I live in Eu. Thanks!

  • I’m in the US, my favorite ELdO is Fat Electrician, and I love the idea of Leather with rice and coconut (and also the new take on their bottle).

  • The milky coconut note appeals to me in this new scent, but it’s difficult to imagine how it will be with all the other notes. Can never say with ELDO. My favourites from this house are Noel au Balcon et La fin du Monde.
    I, m in EU.

  • I felt that these extremeties and I quote” milky coconut effect like a binding agent to pull the elements together and sweeten the rising animalic tones of the base” must be quite startling. The review has ambiguities and I am curious to try! I have loved other Etat Libre D’Orange perfumes so I am sure this will not disappoint! Marvellous draw, very generous. I am in the US

  • I do like the sound of the complexities here. Almost a Yin/ Yang tug perhaps? At least it doesnt sound boring and I love scents that keep you guessing as to weather you like them, or love them or you let a little bit of dislike creep in perhaps? Well, not so uncommon in a lot of relationships . Never worn this brand before but I would put my hand up for this- generous draw. I am international

  • I love Putain.., Bijou…, Rien…, Tilda S… Whats appeal to me os the bottle color , the name , the add, notes sounds interesting as Well and I hope its gonna be a killer scent cause the advertising is magical, Seductive and ohhh my Gosh – desire ! I hope its gonna be a winner ! ( im in EU ) good luck for yall !

  • What I find appealing in True Lust, Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux first is the name of the perfume “True Lust” then the bottle and the mix of intense red with violet and then the notes creating a seductively sweet & sensual smell.
    I have been informed about Etat Libre D’Orange House and its perfume collection from Cafleurebon reviews however I never had the chance to experience any of them so I have no favorite yet.
    I live in EU.

  • I may be one of the few people in the world that loves Secretions Magnifique- on the other hand, i cannot wear it to work, around most family members, etc. Given the over the top sound of True Lust, I am really looking forward to it. I live in the US

  • I haven’t tried any ELdO fragrances, but True Lust sound really interesting. I think it’s neat it’s a mash up of two other fragrances. I live in the US

  • I am
    A fan of Rossi de Palma,Fils de dieu and tilda swinton.
    Own full bottles. I want to win on the the name alone true lust.
    I read the creative director article with Mr de Swardt and was laughing at his great sense of humour
    Eau my dog and Lucifer can’t see those with LVMH
    Please enter me in this generous draw
    USA …go PAtriots

  • I am intrigued by the list of notes. My favorite Eldo is Putain de Palaces. Thank you, I am in the US.

  • Long time ago I had a virtual friend, a literary translator from Paris. She wrote once about a new perfume shop where she bought Putain de Palaces. I didn’t use perfume then and have lost contacts with her but I stil remember the story (and her knee-high, very sexy orange boots) and am very eager to smell True Lust.
    I’m in the EU.

  • I love Putain des Palaces (it’s my favorite ELdO), so I’m very excited to try a mash-up with something else. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • I am intrigued by the name of the scent and by its notes! My favourite ELDO is Tom of Finnland. I simply love it!!! I’m in Germany.

  • Never had opportunity to try any ELDO fragrance but these described are all daring according to composition. It would be interesting to try any. I am in Europe, thank you!

  • I love putain des palaces. On my third bottle. Any hybrid with PdP is a must try for me. I live in the u.s. thanks.

  • I only know Putain des Palaces. I am always up for a lipstick fragrance with a violet tinge. True Lust should work for me.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU). Thank you for the chance!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I’ve always found combining fragrances appealing and this intrigues me about True Lust, Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux. While what works for one wearer may not work for another, I still enjoy the experimentation. I have not yet had the pleasure of wearing an Etat Libre D’Orange perfume. I live in the US.

  • I’m interested in the marriage of animalic notes with the peachy osmanthus — sounds fascinating! I love the name, love the review, TSF! My favorite, I think, of those I’ve tried is Like This. Mmmmm! I live in the U.S.

  • Spicy flowers conveying the hormonal exuberance, sensual crash-test – what not to be attracted to 🙂
    My favorite ELDOs are more or less serene, pristine & peaceful, for most part, all the passions kept at bay – Like That & The Afternoon of a Faun, so, spice connection is right there.
    I live in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • I’d like some True Lust so I may put the pieces together, see how it works. But I always love some incense, wanna smoke out that oud too.

    Andre, USA.

  • A new EldO, this is exciting! This is especially interesting to me because I adore Putain des Palaces. That is my favorite, but True Lust sounds pretty amazing too. The animalic base is a big plus. I’m in the US! Thanks!