New Perfume Review: Etat Libre d’Orange Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre + To Smell a Shadow Draw

victor hugo Castle Lit up at  night 1856

Victor Hugo Castle Lit Up at Night 1856

Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre

Hermann me dit : Je songe aux tombes entr’ouvertes ; 

Et je lui dis :  Je pense aux tombeaux refermés. 

Lui regarde en avant : je regarde en arrière

victor Hugo pen and ink man

Victor Hugo Pen and Ink 

How does a shadow smell? That’s been my question when I first read about Etat Libre d’Orange  Herman à mes côtés (me paraissait une ombre), the new fragrance  created by Givaudan rising star Quentin Bisch under the creative direction of Etienne de Swardt and the artistic direction of David Jaumes. Perhaps it’s Christmas Eve high mass on a misty night after the Church doors close and the last candles extinguished. As you walk home, there is  the scent of incense on your coat, you see the faces of your  friends  swallowed up in the fog until they disappear. Suddenly all around you is darkness, muffled sounds and walking shadows, presences made of nothing but cold moist air hitting your nostrils and bringing incence and petrichor. 

'Main benissante', Victor Hugo

‘Main benissante’, Victor Hugo

A misty graveyard redolent of incense and petrichor is your companion,  echoing your inner voice as something “other” grips you in a pas de deux danse macabre. That’s exactly what the rosy ghost bottled in Herman à mes côtés smells like, which to my nose is the best Etat Libre d’Orange launched  since 2012’s amazing citrus-gourmand Fils de Dieu

Tache d'encre (1856) Victor Hugo

Tache d’encre (1856) Victor Hugo

The earliest representation of the Danse Macabre theme is from the cemetery of the Church of the Holy Innocents in Paris (1424–25), a place Victor Hugo likely walked through during his Méditations poétiques. Death rising from the tombs, shadows and bones swinging through herbs and livid flowers takes a somehow less frightening face. Hermann’s opening actually is green  with the galbanum dashed metallic coldness of pepperwood diffusing the blackcurrant bud feline fruity facets. Decadently atmospheric, the fragrance then starts radiating its peppery rose mist reminiscent of freshly plowed soil, teardrops and of rivers of ink flowing in stormy weather.

victor hugo the dead city 158

Victor Hugo The Dead City 1858

The rose-cassis theme has been a classic since Guerlain Chamade but Quentin Bisch, creates an  oddly pungent acidity reminiscent of another “ombre”, Diptyque’s Ombre dans l’eau, and amplifies its dewy side. The beautiful concoction of watery Calypsone, earthy geosmine and peony-like petalia (a Givaudan captive) in fact succeeds here to cleverly render what’s called Petrichor, the famous smell of rain on a dry soil that’s a dreamy smell many keep looking for. As the greek origin of the name Petri-ichor suggests it also conjures the smell of “petra”, salty wet stones and “ichor”, the blood of Gods that’s a brilliant reference to immortality versus death in Hugo’s lines about open tombs set against closed tombs, past and future, dream versus reality.

 

victor hugo  art 1875

Victor Hugo  Ink Blot art 1876

There is an overall sheerness to the perfume,  which surprises since I was expecting something more conventionally dark.   I liked this different interpretation of “shadow”, where gloom  can also mean no other living being, is around you isolation into the woods and therefore coldness. Transparent often means shortlived but not in this case. Herman à mes côtés lasts forever thanks to a darker base where hints of the musky-balsamic aspects of Mark Jacobs Bang given by pepperwood are deepened by a dry patchouli, bright incense and possibly a touch of castoreum lending a more masculine rubbery finish which adds complexity and a much needed roughness to balance its ethereal romance. Probably a touch more of decay and supple leather would have made it flawless, more daring.  Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre walks closely but is still a step away from the original footprint of Etat Libre d’Orange provocative, outspoken heritage.

Notes: Blackcurrant buds, black pepper, galbanum, calypsone, geosmin, frankincense, pepperwood, petalia, rose absolute, patchouli, ambroxan

-Ermano Picco, Contributor and Editor of la gardenia nell occhiello

Disclosure: sample provided by  Etat Libre D’Orange, opinions my own

Editor’s Note: I chose Victor Hugo’s pen and ink illustrations. In addition to his poetry, novels and dramas, he produced over 4000 paintings.  Quentin Bisch’s first commercial perfume was  Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde in 2013

HERMANN A MES COTES ME PARAISSAIT UNE OMBRE

Thanks to Etienne and David for our last draw of a new 2015 fragrance, we have 100ml bottle of Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre for a registered reader  You need to do this) in the USA, Canada and EU. To be eligible please leave a comment with whhat appeals to you about  Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre, where you live and your favorite Etat Libre D’Orange. Draw closes January2, 2015

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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56 comments

  • I really like the concept of this one! I need a bit of darkness, a bit of dance macabre, to really fall in love with a scent! I fear that this one might not work on my skin (galbanum and frankincense tend towards a burnt rubber vibe on me) but I’d still love a chance to try it… Musk, dirt and petrichor in combination with romantic florals is so up my alley, I am the queen of ‘floral macabre’! 😉 My favorite Eld’O so far is probably Vierges et Toreros which is also totally floral macabre!

    I’m from Finland.

  • madeleine gallay says:

    There’s something familiar and dark in this, apart from the drama of the sketches. Inkblots, maybe a guess or maybe an understood form of psychological testing. Something citrus that isn’t summery crisp and fresh. Dark, lovely and gently challenging?

    A favorite? It’s all favorites as I savor the language here.

    USA.

  • Quentin Bisch remains busy, he is really in demand and a rising star…the review makes it seem like this is quite a transparent fragrance, thus, may appeal to incense and earthy fragrance lovers but also seems safe enough to be worn on a daily basis. My favorite ELDO creation remains Jasmin et Cigarette and it is, indeed, one of my favorite fragrances. I am in the US

  • Pith Fragrances says:

    How intriguing! As an indie perfumer myself, I am endlessly impressed with the ideas that other creators come up with. I love that a perfume based on a shadow would be both dark and transparent. I envision shadows as smelling like skin, wall paint, sidewalks, and bricks. I suppose because those are the places I see shadows trailing along the most often–the ground, walls of houses, and moving over cracks behind people on the sidewalk. Thanks for sharing this post and happy new year to you.

  • baroness_octothorpe says:

    Incense & fog–sounds perfect for a San Francisco winter! I’m in the US–thanks for the draw!

  • WOW, I love EDlO and this one (why is the name so LONG) sound so interesting, I really enjoyed Ermano’s review with the chruch and tombstones as his coat smelled of incense. My favorite is Rien. I live in the USA

  • Very interesting review. I think Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre could be a very unique perfume, but I like the notes. I would very like to try that. I have never tried any of Etat Libre D’Orange perfumes. Thanks for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • I just have to say that this is a stupendous review. Kudos to you, Ermano Picco!! You’ve conjured up such images. I’ve never read such a great description of petrichor. I must admit that I’ve not been moved to try many ELDO fragrances. I’m intrigued by this partly by the note list, but also because of this fantastic review/description. Haven’t got a favorite ELDO yet (lol). In the US. Cheers!

  • I’d love to smell how petrichor is constructed in this new ELDO fragrance. My fav ELDO is Tom of Finland. I have a US add.

  • I love blackcurrant bud as a perfume note. The synthetics also sound very interesting – I don’t think I’ve seen those mentioned anywhere else.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada.

  • Aimee l'Ondee says:

    This sounds fantastic. Thanks for the review and the draw! I love the idea of petrichor in a perfume, because it is my favorite smell evah! My favorite ELDO perfume is Afternoon of a Faun. I live in the US.

  • A dark fragrance is a good thing now that Christmas is over and we have a long time until spring. Several of the notes in this fragrance are unfamiliar to me. I have only been ‘collecting’ fragrances that are not the usual department store offerings for 2 years now. My favorite of this line is Fin du Monde. I would love to win this. Thanks. I live in the U.S.

  • A wonderfully evocative review. I love walking in the fog and quite like graveyards too. My favorite ELdO is Rien, with La Fin du Monde a close second. I love galbanum and wore L’Ombre Dans L’eau for several years, so I am really interested to smell the green and blackcurrant over an incense base. Wish ELdO would go back to being weird and groundbreaking, but this sounds like a step in the right direction. I’m in the US.

  • I am enjoying the concept of petrichor in this perfume, I’ve come across the same word reading reviews of Azzedine Ailia Paris and it intrigues me. I like Marc Jacobs Bang too. The wonderful description of walking in the fog and seeing the faces of friends fading into the fog is some cool imagery. My favorite of this line right now is Fat Electrician. Thanks for the review and generous opportunity.

  • Isn’t it peculiar how both Diptyque and Etat Libre d’Orange decided that black currant rose should convey shadows? It couldn’t be happier for me. I’m currently a fan of ELDO’s Fat Electrician and Tom of Finland. Thank you for the draw (US).

  • I love the note of black currant in etat libre d’orange my favorite from etat libre d’orange is fat electrician I love the vetiver in that. I am James from America.

  • Oh my, this fragrance sounds intriguing! I love that it has rose, patchouli and frankincense. It has such a curious mix of notes, I can’t even begin to imagine what it smells like. I am new to this perfumer, so I can’t say which fragrance is my favorite. Thank you for introducing me to this line of fragrances. I hope to find them so I can test out several.
    I live in the USA

  • Based on just the notes I had previously seen I wasn’t sure how eager I was to try this, but after reading this review….now I must try it! So intriguing, and I love the pictures used in the review too! Suddenly it seems right up my alley. I live in the US and my favorite ELdO fragrance is Rien. Thanks for this chance!

  • Great rewiew Ermano! Amazing pictures, I never know the pictorial side of Hugo art. I love fragrances with dark and disturbing aspects or with a faint melancholy tinge and this one seems perfect to me, starting from its color.
    I have to try it as soon as possible!
    My favorite ELDO fragrance is Philippine Houseboy.
    I live in EU.
    Thanks!

  • Very interesting description of the petrichor; so many great images in this review in perfect harmony with the melancholia / the spleen of the poem! The notes are appealing to me so this new fragrance is on my test-list.
    My ELDO favorite perfume is “The Afternoon of a faun”.
    I’m in the EU.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • The notes of this fragrance sound very good.I would like to test it.I live in EU(Greece).I havent yet the opportunity to try other frangraces of the house of Etat Libre d`Orange.I hope to be this the first one!!!
    Thanks!!!

  • bunchofpants says:

    You need light to cast a shadow, so the “sheerness”/transparency Ermano speaks of seems like it would be a proper balance to the darkness or shadow. This fragrance, sounds captivating! My favorite Etat Libre d’Orange fragrance is La Fin du Monde. I’m in USA.

  • tomate farcie says:

    I love Le Fin du Monde so I can’t wait to try this. I love the name. I live in US. Bonne Année

  • the notes sound great, and i am unfamiliar with the perfumer (so that latter is my main reason to want to smell his creation 🙂 and the hugo ink-drawings area a treat — i did not know the man drew! my fave eldo perfume, hm, i think i cannot decide between rossy de palma’s eau de protection and antiheros. and yes, i am in the us of a.

  • This is what is my favorite part of the review :
    darker base where hints of the musky-balsamic aspects of Mark Jacobs Bang given by pepperwood are deepened by a dry patchouli, bright incense and possibly a touch of castoreum lending a more masculine rubbery finish which adds complexity and a much needed roughness to balance its ethereal romance
    That makes it look really interesting. I would love to try it.
    My favorite ELdO is Eau de Protection. I live in the US.
    Thanks!!!!

  • I am excited about this! The list of notes sounds great. Looking forward to sniffing. My favorite ELdO is La Fin du Monde.
    Thank you for the draw! Happy New Year!
    USA

  • With ELDO, despite having all the notes in front of my eyes, I know that I will never be able to tell how the fragrance will smell like… and this is what makes each ELDO release extremely intriguing and tempting. Every single one is unique and has it’s own character. I am not a fan of flowers in fragrance so the combination of wood, spice and resins is right up my alley. The rose absolute could work well with the resins minimizing the sharpness that comes with the addition of black pepper and frankincense . But there is a couple of ingredients I do not know- calypsone, geosmin, petalia – big question mark. If this supposed to smell like a shadow it has to be sort of “transparent” and quite light in the top notes – maybe that is the layer where the mystery ingredients were incorporated . The only ingredient that seems not to fit in is the blackcurrant buds – I do not know how to comment on that one 🙂

  • I am intrigued and would love to find out how the shadow was delivered in this fragrance. I’d love if it brought to mind the moment when the sun hides behind the clouds and you are hit by the wet, mossy smell of the forest in its endless life-death-life cycle.
    I live in London and my favourite ELDO fragrance is Vierges et Toreros, another fairly dark play on contrasts. Thanks and happy NY everybody!

  • My favorite ELDO is Fils de Dieu. I love wearing it on summer days, or even on damp cold rainy days… it’s both refreshing and plush. Love! Hermann doesn’t sound nearly so cozy, but the petrichor element is appealing in another way. This perfume’s composition may not be a shocking revelation, but it sounds more interesting and enjoyable to wear than some of the recent ELDO releases, which didn’t excite me at all. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw and Happy New Year to all!

  • I’m intrigued by this fragrance! I have plenty of warm spicy scents for the colder months, but this darker medley would be a welcome change. My favorite ELDO is La Fin du Monde. I’m in the USA. 🙂

  • What interests me besides that I am a fan of ELDO…initially, the incense because I am an incense lover. But the descriptions of the soil, the rain and then imagining a vibrant peony illuminated against all of the dark stuff makes me want to put on Bauhaus’ Bela Lugosi’s Dead and sing along. Also, what is petrichor? I want to smell that!
    I am in the EU (Denmark), thanks for offering the draw worldwide 🙂

  • I am intrigued by the rose-cassis theme that is described in the notes. I am a huge fan of ELDO so choosing my favorite is quite difficult but it would be either Like This of Afternoon of a Faun. I am in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • Shame on me because I have never tried any Etat Libre d`Orange, but I some in my list like Fils de Dieu, Tom Of Finland and Eloge Du Traitre. Etat Libre d`Orange has a great creativity to name its fragrance but ‘Hermann A Mes Cotes Me Paraissait Une Ombre’ is to much for my mind, I think most people might think the same and it’s very bad for this fragrance, even being the best fragrance of the world, it might get less interest by people and might be lost in the shelf in my opinion. However it sounds to be a good scent, great review.

  • The rose and patchouli notes are steadfast favorites of mine when they appear together. But the idea of petrichor…. And a sheer darkness intrigue me no end. And the Victor Hugo to accompany it was an inspired choice. This piece was truly a work of art disguised as a review. I’d love to smell the perfume that inspired it. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • I love, love petrichor, and the description of incense, shadow and fog is very interesting. I haven’t yet tried any of ELDO but on my wish list is Rien and Tilda Swinton Like This.
    Great review, words and images. I didn’t know Victor Hugo drew!
    I live in Canada.

  • what appeals to me is first the brand, who is for me one of the best in the niche world. Even if they’re a little bit too wise child than enfant terrible for the moment.
    I live in Belgium

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I love the concept of Etat libre d’Orange and I have several one. My favourite is Eau de protection. I would like to taste this new fragrance. Thanks for the draw.

  • I’ve never tried this brand but I think I would love Fat Electrian and Jasmin Et Cigarettes. The overall dark feel of the review captivates me and the earthy note of geosmin intrigues me. Thanks for this. I’m in the U.S..

  • The combination of frankincense, rose, and ambroxan sounds like heaven to me! I Have a sampler set of ELDO scents, so I am lucky to have tried quite a few of them. My favourites are Like This and Fils de Dieu, although they are all so very interesting. Definitely one of the houses that I keep my eye on.

  • Salty wet stones? Mmmm, love that thought… This review makes it sound lighter than I would have expected, but ELDO is full of nothing if not surprises! I like Like This a great deal, but have found a real surprise in the orange-blossomy cologne! I live in the U.S. and would love to try this new release!

  • pursejunkie says:

    What appeals to me about Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre? Oh, pretty much everything. For starters, I a big fan of ELDO (Fat Electrician being my very favorite) and I also liked Bisch’s La Fin du Monde. Pepper, incense and dry wood is right where my taste is right now, and “masculine rubbery finish” is to my mind a code phrase for “buy me.” Also, I’ve been in quest of a good petrichor fragrance for a long time, and no one’s quite gotten it right…until maybe now (fingers-crossed)? I love the whole, moody, misty inspiration. The only thing that worries me is properly pronouncing the name!
    I’m in the U.S. with my fingers still crossed.

  • I am genuinely afraid of my own idea of what “Hermann…” smells like. Death, tombs, bones, cemetery… *shivering* On the other hand, the notes seem to be more romantic than frightening. Well, I’m not sure if I want to find out.
    My favourite ELdO is Fils de Dieu.
    I’m from EU.

  • dahliadream says:

    Shadow walkers’ aromatics. A clamminess that’s more familiar than frightening, like the ineffable elegance of a dark satin glove tugged on as one steps out into the barely visible shadowprints left by passing raindrops. A compelling review. The notes sound gorgeous; I’d love to see how they play out on my own skin. Thank you for the giveaway.
    ELDO is new to me. U.S.

  • The concept of a misterious shadow in hands of ELDO , must be great for sure. Just looking the notes , anyone can imagine a great fragance: frankincense, rose absolute, patchouli, ambroxan .. ummm , sounds great.

    I have several favs from this brand but I must admit that the most special is RIEN,

    Thanks for the draw , I´m in Europe.

  • Mrs. MacDonald says:

    wow i would love to try this! frankincense is one of my favourite notes, ever. i have never tried anything from this line, but would really love to. i am in Canada! thank you much 🙂

  • girasole638 says:

    I love the smell of petrichor so this one sounds wonderful! I also enjoy salt notes in perfume and wonder what these two facets would be like together. My favorite ELdO scent is Fils de Dieu (but I haven’t tried Rien yet and think I would love it also). Thank you for the draw – I’m in the US.

  • I loved the evocation of darkness…dreams…..death….rain on soil. As always, accompanying images are sublime! I have never ever sampled anything from this house and have been dying to – – – I am in NYC in the USA. Thanks!

  • Great review great atmospheric landscapes, amazing pictures and the notes of black currant and petrichor make this new creation by ELDO house very appealing to me.
    A favorite small from this House is Fils de Dieu.
    I am a registered reader living in EU and I thank you both for the review and draw.

  • Hope I’m not too late for this one as the review really captured my interest. Moody landscapes, shadows, fog, rain and soil – the atmosphere seduces me, grounded and yet mysterious, ethereal. Not least the november child and country girl in me is drawn to that description.
    Haven’t tried this house yet, but want to now.
    I’m in the EU.

  • I love the darkness of this one. I feel its the type of scent that instantly would turn heads. I haven’t tried anything from this house but I’ve heard tons of great things! I’m in Canada

  • I love “dark” fragrances. What’s fascinating though, is the sheerness of the fragrance, which isn’t immediately expected of a dark perfume. I love the description in this review. After all, it isn’t easy to describe this scent because it sounds complex, different!

    I love that fragrances can be worn to evoke different moods. Sometimes we are fascinated by that dark side of the human psyche, of our own shadow, and this fragrance seems to capture that.

    I live in the USA and have yet to try anything from this house, much to my own dismay! Thank you!

  • Hermann sounds spooky, yet exciting; I’m especially intrigued by the “salty wet stones”. 🙂 I’m always drawn to “dark” fragrances and this one seems especially wearable. ELDO is a favorite brand because their creations always push the boundaries of olfactive inventiveness; the ones I wear the most are Divin’Enfant, Putain Des Palaces and Tilda Swinton Like This, though I also enjoy others that I shy away from wearing, like Jasmin & Cigarette.
    I live in Canada, thanks for the draw!

  • Wow I think this would make for a great night scent. The description of the atmosphere was also excellent and very in depth. I really enjoy ELDO as a house. They’re always trying to create unique and memorable fragrances. My favorite from them at the moment would be Fat Electrician. Thank you so much for the draw. I live in Canada.